I just received a few images of her new collections, and they were so gorgeous, I had to share. There is a cohesive quality in the metal colors and textures, yet each piece is totally distinctive. I find the silhouettes incredibly on-trend and modern, yet there is a feeling of authentic ethnicity in the details.

Blackened Silver and 18K Gold Meus Designs Pave Colored Diamond Ring (Center Dia 6.49 cts, Other Dia Wt. 1.89 cts), $11,200 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Diamond & Milky Moonstone Oval Bezel Ring (Dia Wt. 2.25 cts), $5,390 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Champagne Diamond Tear Drop Earrings with Black Diamonds (Black Dia Wt: 5.66 cts, Champ Dia Wt. 0.80 cts), $7,600 Retail

Blackened Silver and 18K Gold Meus Designs Boulder Opal Ring with Diamonds (Dia Wt. .50 cts), $6,200 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Champagne Diamond & Emerald Frame Chandelier Earrings (Dia Wt: 1.10 cts, Emerald Wt: 2.3 cts), $4,200 Retail

I covet any of these for my personal collection, but I would (figuratively) kill for the Boulder Opal ring and the Emerald and Diamond Silhouette Earrings. I look forward to seeing more from this talented designer!

View this post on idazzle.com: New Meus Designs

Erica Courtney Coco Ring with 6.41 carat Oval Zultanite and 1.58 ct TW Diamonds in 18k Gold

Zultanite

Zultanite the “Sultan of Gems” is a remarkable—and recent—gem discovery. It is found in only ONE deposit in the remote and jaw-droppingly beautiful Anatolia Mountains of Turkey. Zultanite has a color-change phenomenon–the most rare of gem effects–with colors for one gem ranging from sage green and canary yellow, to vivid kiwi green, raspberry pink, with warm ginger and cognac. The colors change as the light source changes. The gem is never enhanced, which is remarkable if you understand that most colored gemstones in the market are enhanced or treated in some way to improve their color or durability.

I had a chance to view several Zultanites in person (I returned the gems, I did not receive jewelry or compensation in exchange for this review). This gem is quite unlike any I have seen before. In very bright sunlight, the Zultanites I saw sparkled with bright, crisp facets in a sage green with sunny yellow highlights. I then took it into incandescent light indoors, and the gem turned deeper, richer: caramel-y cognac with khaki green flashes. Once the sun went down, I checked the colors again in incandescent light, and now they were pale raspberry, with some apricot thrown in. I tried viewing them in candlelight, and though it was hard to get enough light to really appreciate the color, the raspberry pink was really intensified. Amazing that one stone can have so many personalities!

Rhonda Faber Green Olympia Chandelier Earrings 44.73 ct TW Zultanites and 4.02 ct TW Diamonds in 18k White Gold

Responsible Mining

It is mined responsibly, both in its impact on the environment, and its positive impact on the lives on the mine workers. The mining process does not use chemicals for extraction, and trucks are used to transport kitchen and bathroom waste water out of the site. Miners are paid above-average wages and are fully insured, and supplies are purchased from surrounding villages whenever possible. Additionally, the mine contributes to local charities and food banks, and employs local residents when possible, to create symbiotic relationships with the surrounding people and environment.

Rhonda Faber Green Legacy Ring with 13.08 ct Zultanite and 0.10 ct TW Diamonds in 18k Gold, Retail $21,720

Amazing Zultanite Designer Jewelry

It is no wonder then that Zultanite has captured the imagination of some major jewelry designers who have created one-of-a-kind pieces around these one-of-a-kind gems. Designers such as Erica Courtney, Rhonda Faber Green, Daniel Gibbings, Christian Tse, Sevan and Evelyn H to name a few.

Rhonda Faber Green Imperial Ring with 2.66 ct Zultanite and 0.30 ct TW Diamonds Set in 18k Gold

The Interviews

I had the opportunity to ask a few of these designers about their experiences working with Zultanite.

idazzle: What was your first thought when you saw the gem in person?
Erica Courtney: When I saw the gem for the first time, I gasped and couldn’t help but to think “WOW.” I didn’t expect what I was going to see.

Daniel Gibbings: Wow, what is this!!! I have never seen any stone like this before.

Rhonda Faber Green: I was intrigued by the color change in the stone. I am constantly amazed by “Mother Nature’s” ability to surprise us with yet another beautiful gemstone.

evelyn H. Jewelry: My first impression when I saw Zultanite was wow! What a refreshing new color stone! Zultanite is very unique and different. The colors from lime green to a strawberry orange comes out in different lighting environments and it was interesting to see the many tones as well as blends occurring when the stone was placed in different lighting environments.

Daniel Gibbings Ring with Catseye Zultanite and Pink Rubies in Hand-hammered and Carved 20k Gold

idazzle: Did you immediately have an idea about how to design around it? Or did it take some time and discovery to create just the right foil for the Zultanite?
Erica Courtney: It took me a little bit of time to pick what accent stones to use with Zultanite because this gemstone is so unique. I was on an extensive search to find the exact shade of pink sapphire that would complement the various shades that Zultanite exposes. Currently, I’m looking for the perfect shade of Demantoids to design with Zultanite.

Daniel Gibbings: I had a vision instantly, because of its color-changing attribute, but it took some time to perfect the vision I had into actual pieces.

Rhonda Faber Green: Many ideas immediately came to mind on how to use this versatile stone. One of the first rings that I designed was an ancient temple. I used a beautiful Zultanite gem as the roof. I knew it would enhance the beauty of the stone; it drew light from all angles. I was amazed to later learn that there is an ancient ruin near the mine in Turkey where Zultanite was discovered.

evelyn H. Jewelry: Zultanite has such great color change properties that makes it appealing to both sexes; however, I immediately knew that I wanted to do something more masculine. A lot of times men feel there are not as much color stone options found in men’s jewelry, and I thought it would be a lot of fun and something different to do. I knew I wanted something structural but it did take a few weeks to solidify the design.

Rhonda Faber Green Olympia Swirl Pendant with 5.15 carat Zultanite and 1.77 ct TW Diamonds in 18k White Gold

idazzle: Were there any challenges working with this gem, in terms of durability or characteristics that are unique to it versus other gems you work with?
evelyn H. Jewelry: Zultanite is an interesting stone to work with. We were given the guidelines beforehand on how to set it because of it’s cleavage and other structural properties, however we created a design that wouldn’t utilize much force in the setting process. We discovered that as long as everybody working on the piece is aware of the sensitiveness in regards to the stone, it was not difficult to work with. Let’s just say it’s a tourmaline, tanzanite, and emerald rolled into one, however if you understand these stones and are comfortable working with them, you won’t have a problem with Zultanite.

Erica Courtney Madeline Ring with 5.32ct Zultanite and Diamonds in 18k Gold, Retail $10,800

idazzle: Can you describe the gem for people who can’t see it directly and capture its essence?
Rhonda Faber Green: The instant beauty of Zultanite is revealed under different kinds of lighting where the variety of colors really show up. Other color-change gemstones I’ve seen have just two basic colors. With Zultanite, I’ve seen an array of colors – canary yellow, ginger, green, champagne, raspberry pink, light brown and sage green. This variety of colors compliments both yellow and white gold and even platinum designs. I love that the saturation of color in each piece of Zultanite varies from stone to stone. This allows each Zultanite piece to have its unique personality.

evelyn H. Jewelry: Imagine a tranquil green meadow right when the sun is setting. You have the beautiful yellowy green as the last rays of the sun touches the meadow, and then you have the reds, oranges, and tans as the sun sinks over the hill and reflects in the sky. That’s what I see when I look at the stone. It really is mesmerizing.

Daniel Gibbings Statement Earrings with Zultanite and Rubies in 18k Gold

A Trip to Turkey

Erica Courtney had the opportunity to travel to Turkey to visit the Zultanite mine. I asked her a couple of questions about her experience there.

idazzle: How did going to Turkey and visiting the source for the gem, with all its culture and history, influence your ultimate designs?
Erica Courtney: Turkey is a very romantic place. You can’t help but fall in love with Zultanite completely. This best explains my love for Turkey and Zultanite…..”Before I experienced Turkey, it was lust, but after Turkey, it was love.” After meeting the staff and owner at the mine, I was able to see how well they treated the land, their employees and gemstones—you can’t help but see how precious the gems and people are and it’s hard not to fall in love with everything and everyone involved.

idazzle: What made the biggest impact on you from your visit to the mine: the people involved, the effort it takes to extract even one stone, the rarity of this gem in particular? What stands out for you?
Erica Courtney: The biggest impact for me was the attitude of the staff members at the mine. They were all so happy and friendly. I felt like they were a huge family and they were welcoming me in as a new member. I could tell that everyone who worked at the mine were generally concerned with each other and the environment. They were really passionate about their work and the gems.

Dancing with the Star's Carrie Ann Inaba Wearing Rhonda Faber Green's Olympia Zultanite Earrings

Look for more press and interest in this gem as its beauty, rarity, and other intangible qualities become more well known. For instance, just this week Carrie Ann Inaba was spotted wearing amazing Rhonda Faber Green Zultanite earrings on Dancing with the Stars! Ask your local jeweler to see a Zultanite, and visit the websites of the designers seen here for more information. As always, drop me a line here and let me know if you need a referral to a designer or retailer who has access to this remarkable gem.

Erica Courtney Raindrop Pendant with Zultanite and Diamonds in Platinum

View this post on idazzle.com: Zultanite: New Gem Discovered by Amazing Jewelry Designers

It turns out that even the most non-hyperbole-prone observer would spontaneously say something theatrical when seeing these designs. They are just that daring.

Welcome to the world of Jemma Wynne, where high fashion meets jewelry meets Smithsonian-worthy gem specimens.

Jemma Wynne 18K Limited Edition Necklace with Bicolor Tourmaline, Pave and Rosecut Diamonds, $4,100 Retail; Available at Churchill, KS.

The Background

Jemma Wynne consists of two designers, Jenny and Stephanie, working side-by-side in their 5th Ave Atelier. Jenny grew up as the only girl in a family with three boys, and consequently spent a lot of time with her talented painter/artist mother. She credits the time her mother spent helping Jenny pursue her creative endeavors–painting classes, mosaics–for her focus on design as art. Stephanie, always creative and coloring in sketch books as a child, studied graphic design in college, paving the way for a career in something beautiful. They met while working for established jewelry designer Judith Ripka. They almost immediately recognized an affinity in design and purpose, and started Jemma Wynne officially in 2008.

Their goal was to create jewelery in precious materials that was not stuffy, fussy, or so trendy that women would hesitate to buy it for themselves. They passionately wanted jewelry that appealed to sophisticated women, but wanted it to be worn, mixed and layered. They manage to create jewelry that is dramatic and incredibly beautiful, but wearable, too.

Jemma Wynne 18K Limited Edition Earrings with Bicolor Tourmalines, Pave and Rosecut Diamonds, $8,090 Retail; Available at Jemma Wynne

The Jewelry of Jemma Wynne

Looking at their collection, you get the sense that jewelry is FUN. Gorgeous gemstones combine in unexpected ways. Shapes are definitely mixed up and recombined in ways that challenge traditional ideas of fine jewelry. Interesting details are layered, so that those who study and take a second look are rewarded.

Jemma Wynne Ankara Cabochon Rings in 18k with Rose Quartz, Cognac and White Diamonds $12,080 Retail; and Milky Aqua, Cognac and White Diamonds $8,930; Available at Churchill, KS.

Chances are that you have seen some of their designs in the press recently: Harper’s Bazaar in December 2010; InStyle in August 2010; mentions and features in LA Confidential, Town and Country.

Jessica Biel Wearing Jemma Wynne Cabochon Ring

The Interview with Stephanie and Jenny of Jemma Wynne

idazzle: How did the two of you meet?
Jenny: Coincidentally, Stephanie and I have followed very similar paths. We both were very artistic and creative growing up and while in college we stumbled into the world of jewelry making. It started as a hobby for both of us, and as we wore our pieces we began to develop small followings.
Stephanie: As my pieces gained popularity, I decided to put together a small collection and began selling to boutiques in New York City and New Jersey. After I graduated from American University with a Bachelors degree in graphic design, I began working in the design department of Judith Ripka as an assistant to the designer.
Jenny: As I started selling more of my pieces, I decided to start a small business selling my jewelry at private trunk shows where I developed a devout clientele. It didn’t take long for me to realize that I loved what I was doing and this was my passion, so during my next two summers I interned at Judith Ripka in the design and product development department. After I graduated from the University of Pennsylvania, I was hired full time and that is where Stephanie and I met in 2005. It was really our passion and creativity that drove us to start our own company only a few years later in 2008.

Jemma Wynne Signature Bangles in Rainbow of Gems

How did the original idea of Jemma Wynne germinate? What was the catalyst to forming a fine jewelry design company?
Jenny: Steph and I very quickly realized our shared passion for jewelry making and similar design aesthetic. We felt like we had new ideas and wanted to share our vision.
Stephanie: We believe that there is a story behind every piece of jewelry- it is something that is special and unique. Whether it is a gift from a loved one for a special occasion or a gift for oneself, it holds some significant meaning to its owner. We love to be a part of that feeling and process. Jewelry also allows us to be creative and we believe that a woman’s jewelry should be something that is treasured and always relevant.
Jenny: We draw inspiration from our own personal styles; Stephanie’s more polished and classic sensibility combined with my relaxed femininity is reflected in our designs. This approach appeals to both mothers and daughters alike, making Jemma Wynne a cross-generational brand. We create for any woman who appreciates fine craftsmanship, unexpected detail and embraces her individual style.

What was your first collection?
Jenny: The first piece we ever made was a bangle with a rubelite pear shape on one side with an oval rosecut diamond on the other. We got such an amazing response to it that it sparked the development of our signature bangles that has become a staple and the best sellers in our collection.

What is your favorite gemstone/material combination so far?
Stephanie: Our favorite gemstones are bicolor tourmalines- they are so vibrant! We strive to create jewelry that is exquisite and out of the ordinary. Our one of a kind line of limited edition pieces, made with rare bicolor tourmalines, takes raw and organic materials and modernizes them into chic, elegant creations unlike anything else in the world of fine jewelry.

18K Limited Edition Earrings with Emerald Cut Bicolor Tourmalines and Pave Diamonds, $12,600 Retail; Availale at Churchill, KS.

How and where do you have your designs actually fabricated? Are there challenges in sourcing your unusual gemstones and getting top-quality production of your finished pieces?
Stephanie: All of our pieces are handmade here in New York City. We are really lucky to be within walking distance to the Jewelry District in NYC where we are able to work with suppliers that acquire their materials from all over the world. Our diamond suppliers source all our diamonds from Antwerp and Israel. A few times a year, as we start to make our new collections, our stone suppliers from Brazil, Germany, and India make a special trip to our office to show us all their new merchandise. Once a year Jenny also takes an exotic trip and comes back with new and interesting materials. It’s always exciting to see what she will bring back.
Jenny: The craftsmanship and quality of our pieces is something that is extremely important to us, so having them fabricated down the street from our office where we can oversee the process from start to finish is a priority for us and avoids any major unwanted surprises in the finished piece.

How would you describe your key customer? Do you have a specific muse?
Jenny: We define our design aesthetic as the “cashmere hoodie” of jewelry–rich, but comfortable. The vision of Jemma Wynne is to create versatile jewelry for women who desire a sophisticated look, while still maintaining that casual ease. Our jewelry epitomizes the concept of everyday luxury and we feel that fine jewelry should not have to live in a jewelry box, waiting for the perfect occasion to be pulled out and worn. With this in mind, we create collections to provide our customer with high quality, unique pieces that are comfortable and practical enough to wear with jeans and a t-shirt, yet are special enough to complement the finest couture.
Stephanie: Our jewelry is cross-generational in that it appeals to both mothers and daughters alike; we create for women who appreciate fine craftsmanship, unexpected detail and embrace their individual styles.

How does it feel to have your designs worn by The First Lady?
Jenny: It is truly an honor to have our pieces worn by Mrs. Obama, one of our generation’s true fashion icons. She truly epitomizes the Jemma Wynne woman- her clothes and style are rich, yet she maintains that casual element which makes it seem effortless.

Michelle Obama Wearing Jemma Wynne

Do you create anything custom for special clients?
Stephanie: We started in this business creating custom pieces for our loyal private clients. It is such a fun process to have people come in and custom design a personalized piece of Jemma Wynne jewelry. Clients come to our Atelier where we show them an assortment of stones, see what they gravitate towards, and together we design an exquisite piece of one of kind jewelry for them.

What’s on the horizon in 2011? Anything you can tell us without having to kill us?
Jenny: 2011 will be an exciting year for Jemma Wynne. Our collection is constantly evolving and we are focusing on creating even more spectacular bangles, and, of course, expanding on our Limited Edition bicolor tourmaline pieces. We have many other things in store, but nothing we can share just yet ☺.

These women are designing some truly amazing jewelry, and I love everything about their vision, from their design philosophy, to how they have their jewelry made with such care in the U.S.! Their jewelry can be found in a few select stores in the country, including Churchill in Kansas City and Ikram in Chicago. To inquire about their jewelry, visit their website at www.jemmawynne.com.

Jenny and Stephanie of Jemma Wynne

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Jemma Wynne

The Designer

Primary designer for Kara Ackerman Creations, Ltd, Kara has possessed a strong design sense from an early age, and combined that with a single-minded passion for jewelry to start her own design company. Since 1998, she has created a number of collections that incorporate precious materials like gold and gems with other interesting materials like wood and leather. She’s garnered some great press and a devoted following of celebrities such as Demi Moore, Zoe Saldana, and Christina Applegate.

A lovely stack of Judie bangles by Kara Ackerman, with gem selections in 24k over Sterling Silver, $200 Retail each

The Kara Ackerman Collections

The Kara Ackerman Collection consists of high-end jewelry incorporating faceted gemstones like French amethyst, citrines, colored diamonds and pearls in gold, silver and heavy-plated vermeil. These are the designs that put her on the map in fashion terms, and are collected by connoisseurs.

The GemGirls collection by Kara are personalized charms that can be collected, stacked and worn. Accented with gemstones, they are precious little gifts–or treats for yourself–and are very wearable as pendants or bracelets.

Kara doesn’t forget about men, and has a KSA Designs for Men collection of interesting cufflinks and moneyclips. It can be hard to find great jewelry and accessories for men, and she fills a niche with interesting designs and great craftsmanship.

Kara Ackerman 18kt Hammered Gold Earrings with Rose Cut Diamonds, $900 Retail

The Interview

idazzle: When did you start the Kara Ackerman Designs company?
Kara Ackerman: The official start date of Kara Ackerman Designs was on September 10th, 1998.

What did you do in your previous life?
Before I followed my passion, I worked for Sony Entertainment. I was a productions assistant working on music videos . It was a very special time in my life.

Kara Ackerman Brooke White Topaz Pave Cocktail Ring, $300 Retail

What was the catalyst for making the foray into jewelry design?
I have been designing jewelry as long as I can remember, it is in my blood. My earliest childhood recollections are of beading simple necklaces and playing with my mothers jewelry collection.

How would you describe your fashion/design philosophy in a word or phrase?
Wearable Art.

Kara Ackerman Gold Plated Aluminum Stacking Bangles, $65 for Set of 20

What kind of woman or person do you have in mind when you are creating new designs? Any specific muse?
My mother is my inspiration, her beauty and sense of style are best
described as classic. She has the poise and class of a Jacky O and the
intuitive fashion sense of a Audrey Hepburn. My mother is at the base of
everything I create.

What is the most interesting dilemma you have faced as an entrepreneur in the jewelry industry?
There is a constant pressure to keep up with the ever changing styles in the fashion industry. It is in the moments when things are in the greatest of flux, where I see the best opportunity to set the trend.

Pile 'o Judie Rings to Collect and Stack, Many Gemstones Available in 24k Vermeil, Around $100 Retail Each

What is the most inspiring/rewarding thing about coming to work as a jewelry designer each day?
My designs evolve from the world around me. Like an artist, I interpret what I see in a medium of silver, gold, precious stones, etc. There is an indescribable thrill in bringing those visions to life.

Thank you, Kara, for explaining your inspiration and designs! It will be fun to see what she’s working on for 2011, I’ve heard rumors about some interesting new developments! You can find Kara Ackerman’s designs in her own online boutique, and in a few select physical stores like OC Concept Store in NYC, Dovecote in CT, and Rocks by Rachel in Boca Raton, FL. Her designs can also be found at online retailer Max & Chloe. For information about any of the items featured in this article, or for more information about a custom-designed piece, contact Kara through her website here.

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: An Interview with Kara Ackerman

Caleo Mini Cloud Earrings in 18k Yellow with Chrysoprase and Turquoise, $1090 Retail

The Designer

Designer and creative director Lyndsay Caleo is responsible for the renderings and ideas that become the finished reality of CALEO Fine Jewelry. She credits inspiration coming from primitive art, Scandinavian aesthetic, and nature’s simple, perfect forms. She distills these elements through her sculptor’s eye, then refines them to jewelry scale.

I’m not the only one noticing this designer: before the collection officially launched in 2009, it was awarded the Innovative Talent Award from the World Gold Council that year. Celebrity stylists have also noticed, and the designs have gotten numerous press mentions in past year since it’s launch. (And while it’s not the most important thing about the collection, it is worth noting that most items in the collection range in price from $150 to about $2000.)

Caleo Pinch Stack Ring with Center Rainbow Moonstone, $850 Retail, and Pinch Stack Rings with Diamonds, from $425 Retail

The Caleo Collections

The Cloud Collection is a signature look, featuring a finely-drawn line that loops bezels around rose-cut gems like Labradorite and Rainbow Moonstone. There are bracelets with hefty jewels balanced by sculptural clasps, and necklaces where the loop is actually a clip that can go from chain to chain. All have a certain appeal with the focus on the clean lines and gorgeous jewels.

Caleo Large Cloud Earrings with Rose Cut Labradorite in 18k Gold

The Pinch Collection really shows the three dimensional talent of the designer as sculptor. The simple forms take on a totally different quality with the undulating pinch texture defining the edges. Everything shines here: the hoop and straight-line earrings, the bangles, necklaces, and the stacking rings. In addition to the 18kt Yellow, Rose and White gold, this collection looks stunning in a satin white finish and blackened rhodium-plated finish on Sterling Silver.

Caleo Pinch Stacking Rings in Satin White and Black Rhodium Sterling Silver, $165 and $175 Retail

The Oceana Slink collection features some truly amazing pieces like the hinged cuff that resembles a textured Manta Ray encasing your wrist. There is also an Aurora and Halo collection, where diamonds and gems are surrounded by sculptural metal. The Aurora rings stack together in very interesting ways, with an almost Byzantine feel.

Caleo Oceana Slink Cuff Bracelet in Sterling Silver with Diamonds, $2790 Retail

The Interview

idazzle.com: So you started as a sculptor originally? What made you take the step from sculptor to jewelry designer?
Lyndsay Caleo: I made the transition from “sculpture” to “jewelry” during my artist residency at the Cleveland Institute following my graduation from RIT. I was reading about nomadic tribes at the time. I am fascinated by their culture and how they carry and wear their amulets and talismans’. During my time at the Cleveland Institute my work kept getting smaller and smaller until I began to attach chains to my designs so I could wear them. I realized that every culture has different versions of a talisman, in some way shape or form. What we choose to wear can make us feel confident, safe, empowered or somehow connected to someone or something. I am drawn to the personal connection and meaning that jewelry communicates. On another level I approach my jewelry the same way I approach my larger scale work. From interiors to sculpture, my work is all about creating systems. So in a way I feel like I’m still working as a sculptor, only on a different scale. I’m constantly thinking about how a piece of sculpture can make sense worn on one’s body.

When did you start the Caleo Fine Jewelry company? Did this grow out organically from private designing, or did you set out to start a full-fledged design company?
Caleo, as a company, grew very organically, I was in the studio for a few years creating one of a kind pieces until the demand grew beyond what I could make with my own hands.

Caleo Halo Ring in 18k with Chrysoprase with Diamond Accent

What was your first collection(s)?
My very first jewelry collection was a series of one of a kind pieces that explored what I mentioned above, as well as material, shape and form that I hadn’t seen in jewelry before. During this time I was exploring and handcarving everything from stone and crystal, to wood and hand cast metal.

Where is your jewelry made? Is there anything special about the sourcing or finishing that readers should know about?
All of the gold I use is recycled and I only use conflict free diamonds and stones. I still create pieces in my studio but I also have an incredible team of goldsmiths that work me with on production and one of a kind specialty pieces.

How does your bench training at Rhode Island School of Design influence your designs?
RISD was an important time for me on many levels. My years at RISD were intense but inspirational. You gain so much knowledge by working with your hands. It taught me to see things from a different perspective and reconsider my thought process behind my work. I try to approach everything I create with an open mind. The attention to detail is key in all of my work. The knowledge and discipline I gained during those years has helped me mold Caleo into what it is today.

Caleo Pinch Teardrop Earrings in 18k Yellow Gold, $1500 Retail

Have you had any fortunate serendipity while designing? Like a “mistake” or experiment that somehow turned into something really wonderful?
About two years ago someone sent me a huge bouquet of lily’s. The flowers had passed but I had plucked off the stamen [those pesky little parts in the center of the lily that stain your cloths? ] and left them on my bench. I would push them around and play with them while I was working. Months later I was looking at a new collection I was working on and realized that those pesky little Stamen shapes were in every one of my designs. Today that collection is one of our best selling collections.

Is there any type of medium or material you would like to add to your collections? Anything exciting that you are working on? Yes!! Material is a constant source of inspiration and I am excited about what’s on the table for Spring! I am just finishing the samples now.

Where can readers find your designs?
All of our retail partners that carry the collection are listed on our website, www.caleojewelry.com. We have key partners around the country. If we do not have a retail partner in your region we can be contacted directly about questions or concerns at: info at caleojewelry dot com.

Thank you, Lyndsay! You can find her designs at stores like Broken English in Santa Monica, Tivol in Kansas City, and some other locations across the country. You can contact her studio through their website here. This designer shows such strength, and such promise, I can’t wait to see what else she creates!

View this post on idazzle.com: Designer Spotlight: An Interview with Caleo Fine Jewelry

Christian Tse 18kt Yellow Gold 10.00 Ct. Natural Fancy Yellow Diamond Engagement Ring with Fancy Yellow Accent Pave, Price upon Request

Christian Tse Background

Christian is a third generation jeweler, which helps to explain his design aesthetic and his studio’s skill: there is a confidence of composition in his designs. He launched the Christian Tse line in 1996 with his platinum and gold mesh jewelry, with collections that were influenced by his family’s business of designing 24 karat gold jewelry for Chinese weddings. I first saw his platinum and gold jewelry at fine independent jewelry stores in the late 1990′s and was impressed with how well-made the jewelry was, and how great it felt to wear it. NO ONE else in the industry was doing anything remotely like this. He went on to win a couple of Couture Awards for Best Design in Platinum, in 2000 and 2002.

Christian Tse 18kt White Gold Drop Earrings with 18.42 cts TW of Amethyst and 1.96 cts TW Pave Diamonds, $13,900 Retail

Christian Tse Jewelry Designs

After his success with his precious metal designs, Christian turned his eye towards gemstones and fancy color diamonds. He creates some truly memorable rings, earrings, and necklaces using gemstones combined with finely-wrought micro pave diamonds. Each piece is made by hand in their Pasadena loft studio, allowing ultimate control and perfect execution of his creations. Every detail, down the exact alloy of metal to match or contrast with each gemstone is carefully considered. He and his wife Victoria have been described as the “yin and yang” of their business, with a wonderful balance of hard work and honest communication with their staff and clients, but truly passionate about jewelry and their craft.

Christian Tse Geometric Drop Earrings in 18kt White Gold with Fancy Vivid Yellow-Orange Diamonds totaling 3.94 cts and 3.57 cts Pave Diamonds, Price upon Request

Christian Tse Timepieces

Christian’s innovative use of color is already apparent with his diamond and gemstone jewelry, but his true genius is revealed in his recently-launched watch designs, the aptly named “Prismatic Timepieces”. These watches feature amazing gemstones paired with bands made of stingray and other exotic textures, in arresting color combinations and patterns. But here’s the thing: the time is actually not apparent when looking at them–you must hit a hidden stem that then displays the time in diamonds that light up for a few seconds. Since some people have abandoned watches all together in the age of cell phones and devices that tell time down to the atomic second, this approach frames watches as gorgeous jewelry that you change with your outfit. It pushes the concept of time.

Christian Tse Desert Rose Watch on Strap

Christian Tse Interview

idazzle.com: Three words: Fancy Color Diamonds! How did you come to focus on designing fancy color diamonds? I read the recent JCK article where you serendipitously connected with a crazy-rare 4.5ct fancy vivid blue diamond. How do you approach these projects? Do you usually acquire the colored diamond first, then take your time formulating the design around it? Or do you have a certain color combination and design in mind, then go source the center diamond?
Christian Tse: I have always had a fascination for fancy color diamonds, though in my early years of business I could not afford to purchase fancy color diamonds. My very first fancy color diamond was a natural black diamond.
I approach each diamond as an individual project. Each diamond has its unique color and shape. The center diamond is the primary influence on the color combination for the design. I usually carry the diamond around and constantly look at it in different lights, i.e. day light, incandescent light, florescent light, twilight and so on to truly feel and experience the color. Once I’ve spent time with the diamond I come up with the design. We also alloy our gold colors to match and enhance the fancy color diamond.

Christian Tse Natural Fancy Green Diamond Ring, Price upon Request

What is your favorite color combination in all of your designs? Do you have an all-time favorite?
My favorite color for a diamond is a Natural Vivid Orange. Blue and pink diamonds go hand in hand. It also makes for a fantastic color combination.

So you make all of your jewelry in your studio/atelier in Pasadena? It’s becoming quite unusual to actually craft jewelry in the US, let alone under one roof. Do you feel this has an impact on the design process, quality and finishing of your work?
Manufacturing in the USA has always been my top priority as the trend is to move work over to other countries. I make a conscious effort in planning for long-term growth with our clients in acquiring advanced technical equipment for our facility. I have much better control over quality and design when I can be a part of every stage of crafting the pieces.

Christian Tse 18kt White Gold Asian-motif Square Bracelet with 10.51 ct TW Pave Diamonds, $29,000 Retail

Who or what is the biggest influence in your life? Any particular muse?
Fashion influences my work in a big way. I love to see the colors and textures that are working through the runways.

Tell me about your watches. What inspired you to venture into watch design? Who did you envision wearing them when you designed them?
I have always envisioned lighting up diamonds. One day I was trying to design a ring that would light up the center diamond, and one thing lead to another and the Prismatic Timepiece was born! My latest creation is the Radiance Collection. It’s a natural extension of my love for color. The collection emulates luxury through a celebration of vibrant colored baguette gemstones featuring sapphires and topazes and diamond bezel settings. The people who wear and adore my watches are chic, fashionable jet setters, often celebrities, from Russia to New York, Shanghai to Dubai.

Christian Tse Radiance Collection 38mm Rose Gold and Gemstone Watch on White Alligator Band, $15,000 Retail

What does your design process look like? Chaos or order ?
My approach to design is systematic. I am very particular on angles and measurements. The feel and wear of each design is closely followed. Proportions are closely paid attention to.

Early in your design career you did some very inventive designs with precious metals in interesting textures. Currently you are doing some very interesting things with precious gems as the focus. Do you prefer one particular medium?
I believe as time passes, and as I grow as an individual, my designs continue to evolve as well. I often search for the next influence in my designs. I am constantly challenging myself to push the envelope to develop new techniques, new materials, and new ideas. Who knows what medium I will be working on, maybe titanium, maybe concrete?

The designer himself, Christian Tse!

Thank you, Christian! You can find Christian’s designs in Neiman Marcus stores and a few fine boutiques across the country. If you would like to inquire about a design or find a retailer near you, contact his studio here.

View this post on idazzle.com: Designer Spotlight: An Interview with Jewelry Designer Christian Tse

One setting style that can work for a lot of vibrant, active women is a bezel. A bezel is a lip of metal that wraps around the center stone partially or fully to hold the stone. This does a couple of things. First of all, it should hold the stone securely, since a higher percentage of metal (compared to prongs) is contacting the stone. Second, it protects all or part of the edge of the diamond, which can be vulnerable to damage. I know that a lot of people think diamonds are impervious, but they can be chipped or even broken if they are struck just right (it has to do with the atomic bonds being slightly less strong in certain directions). And finally, bezels just look cool and have a sculptural design aesthetic.

The Ultimate Bezel Setting? Wendy Brandes Gravity Engagement Ring can be custom made for your center stone.

Bezel settings may not be for everyone. It can cover a lot of the profile of the diamond, which some people really want to see. If the bezel isn’t constructed correctly, the diamond can still get loose and even fall out. And they can be hard to clean if the bezels are very enclosed. But when they are done well, bezels can be like women themselves: gorgeous, resilient, and brilliant!

Sethi Couture does some gorgeous bezel settings using Rose cut and fancy colored diamonds. These rings make a statement, but still have a classic element:

Gorgeous Bezel Setting Designs by Sethi Couture, featuring Rose cut and fancy color diamonds, starting at $3500 Retail

This designer, Lisa Krikawa, does some great bezel settings, all very customizable. This tri-color gold Mokume Gane setting has a simple, clean outline but lots of texture and interest:

Krikawa Mokume Cathedral Engagement Ring, starting at $2655 Retail

This innovative site, Gemvara, allows you to customize your jewelry purchase almost infinitely. This bypass partial bezel flatters many fingers and is incredibly wearable, available for different diamond sizes–or a rainbow of colored gems–in 14kt yellow or white gold, 18kt yellow or white gold, and platinum:

Gemvara Embrace Bypass Setting in 14kt Gold w/ center .57ct Round Diamond, $1493 Retail

Not into diamonds for your center stone? A bezel and a gorgeous colored gemstone can be a magical combination for a stand-out ring. This design is by talented designer and metalsmith Danielle Miller:

Danielle Miller Tsavorite and Diamond Bezel Set Ring

If a center stone is just not your style, there are lots of bands that use bezels beautifully. This Ritani design from Kranich’s Jewelry incorporates sleek bezels all around the finger for a distinctive–and wearable–look:

Ritani 31203BRP Platinum Eternity Band with Diamonds from Kranich's Jewelers, price and carat weight vary by finger size

What’s your favorite bezel? If you want to try on amazing bezel settings, contact me here and I can recommend a fantastic local jeweler to check out!

View this post on idazzle.com: Beautiful Bezel Settings for Busy Women

I first stumbled upon Leon Mege and his custom platinum ring designs online. And even from images online, I could tell that his craft was at an entirely different level than most of the rest of the jewelry business.

Cushion Cut in Platinum Solitaire Setting by Leon Mege, love those double claw prongs!

The Jewelry

To say that Leon Mege makes rings would be akin to saying that Rembrandt made paintings. He can make a ring for a ridiculous-size center diamond, or make an exceptional setting for a .75 carat if you want. If he does make something for you, no one in your circle is going to have a ring remotely in the same league. Particularly if you are looking for an Asscher cut, Cushion cut, or a Halo setting, I can truly say “nobody does it better”.

The designs themselves are exceptional: a certain savant in their proportions, just the right curve here and bend there. His colored gem pieces show an amazing dexterity of form and color combination.

AGTA Award Winning Paraiba Tourmaline and Diamond Ring by Leon Mege

Beyond the designs, the execution is what truly sets Leon’s rings apart. Each ring is fabricated by hand–no molds. The proportions are worked out, then the stones all laid out, drilled, set, beaded, and finished. It takes a cadre of the most skilled craftsmen in his studio/workshop in New York some 6 weeks to make one (one!) bespoke ring.

While I was in the studio, I got to see some exceptional one-of-a-kind pieces, including the ring below. This ruby ring belongs on someone’s finger (for some reason I think it should be in LA, but maybe I’m wrong). Each “petal” started out as a sheet of silver metal. Then it has to be molded into its undulating leaf shape, and the pattern of the stones is laid out. Each tiny hole for each stone is drilled, then the rubies are set with tiny pave beads on top, and the bottom of the leaf is azured. When he started the project, Leon did not know for sure how many stones would be used, but somehow, the number of rubies came out to exactly 500. And the number of diamonds came to exactly 50. Serendipity of symmetry and balance…

Ruby and Orange Diamond Ring by Leon Mege, $35,000 Retail

The History

Leon arrived in New York City in 1988. Trained in jewelry fabrication in his native Russia, he was employed in the jewelry trade literally on his second day in the US (that should tell you something about his ambition and work ethic). He got his Gemology degrees from GIA, and eventually started his own shop here on 47th St. Up until about 2 years ago, he was the secret weapon for the most prestigious retailers in NYC, making rings for celebrities and some of the most influential glitterati in the city. But his designs deserve a name, so a couple of years ago he shifted the business from a trade-only custom shop to a private-appointment atelier selling directly to the end customer.

The shift to almost-retailer has been a very good one, giving Leon the name recognition he needs and customers direct communication with the man himself. A remarkable number of details can get lost in translation from customer to retail salesperson to the craftsman. This way, the customer gets EXACTLY what they want.

Magnificent Cold Fusion Halo Setting for a 3 Carat Cushion, Leon Mege

The Process

If you are interested in having Leon and company make a ring for you, keep in mind that this is not a traditional store. You need to follow some rules of engagement. You make an appointment. You may not see a ring at all during your visit, just images of designs. He will set your own stone, if it is appropriate for the mounting you want and can be set safely. If you need a diamond, especially a significant or unusual Cushion cut or Asscher cut, you can speak to Perry Chen, the Diamond Concierge of the business. Perry can find you the right diamond–at an extremely competitive price–and you get the synergies of working with them from sourcing the stone to the finished ring.

This is a craftsman whose name should be in the company of Faberge, and the original Cartier. Years from now, his pieces may be listed by name in auction catalogs and command those values. If you have Leon Mege make a ring for you, you can count yourself among celebrities, collectors, and connoisseurs.

Leon hard at work at the jewelry bench.

View this post on idazzle.com: Leon Mege, The Most Beautiful Rings In The World?

Irene Neuwirth

I profiled Irene Neuwirth previously here, and I would take this ring in a heartbeat. It is sculptural, versatile, and I think it has the potential to be a future heirloom that can be handed to the next generation:

Irene Neuwirth Rainbow Moonstone Ring in 18kt Yellow Gold, $2440 Retail

Irene works a lot with colored gems, but her gold jewelry is just as beautiful. Fluid, soft, and still modern, I think these earrings are an amazing addition of gold to a jewelry wardrobe:

Irene Neuwirth 18kt Yellow Gold 9-Drop Earrings, $1850 Retail

Shawn Warren

These hoops are my hands-down favorite of the designer jewelry I’ve seen in the past few months (for more jewelry by Shawn Warren, click here). They are exactly on-trend with a blackened finish, tiny diamonds and larger diameter. But more importantly (when you are spending this amount of $), they are also pretty timeless and I think they would be a staple in your jewelry wardrobe for a very long time. The best part? You can change them up instantly by adding the detachable rose-cut diamond drops. They are available in 2 sizes and 3 metals: 18kt rose gold, white gold, or the black-rhodium finish on 18kt gold:

Large Diamond Hoop with Rose-cut Diamond Drop, $2350 Retail for hoop, $1075-1500 for Rosecut Dia Drops

Here is another item from Shawn’s collection that I would really love to have: a striking pendant that could be worn on a shorter leather cord, or a long chain, potentially layered up with another necklace or pendant. Shown with her “Alba” 18kt white gold chain with white sapphires, please check with Shawn on availability and retail. Shawn’s studio has quite a few great gift ideas from $275 Brazilian Druzy rings to $1500 gorgeous diamond pendants:

Unison Bubble Pendant in 18kt White Gold and Silver, $2350 Retail for Pendant alone

Rebecca

If you are looking for really striking jewelry that is generally under $1000, the Rebecca line should be on your radar. At their state-of-the-art manufacturing center in Italy, they produce fine jewelry made from bronze that is heavily plated with 18 karat gold. I really like this “Roma” ring. It is definitely not shy (about 1″ square), but with 18 Kt gold-plated bronze as the metal, and a hydrothermal Peridot (same gem properties as the real thing, just grown in a lab), it is affordable fine jewelry. Available through Authorized Retailers, or from Fox’s Gem Shop:

Roma Ring from Rebecca, $620 Retail

Mattioli

It seems like it’s hard to find great gold designs. After white metals reigning supreme for more than a decade, I think gold is definitely moving back to its spot as the king of metals. Of course, you have be able to stomach its current price per ounce (at the time of the article, it is hovering around $1100/ounce, close to its all time high). Here is a bracelet from Mattioli that is sinuous and lovely, but has the hallmarks of a classic piece (their necklaces are gorgeous, too):

Mattioli Hiroko Collection 18kt Bracelet, $3675 Retail

Need More?

There’s a lot of gift ideas and designer information on this site already, if you explore a little. You can also drop me a line at monica@idazzle.com, or visit my Local Jewelers page to get a recommendation for an excellent jeweler close to you that can help you.

View this post on idazzle.com: More Jewelry Gift Ideas: Designer Jewelry Wishlist

A couple of things struck me at the event. First of all, seeing a designer’s pieces in person is a MUST. I was blown away by the intensity and complexity of Irene Neuwirth’s colored gemstones, which doesn’t fully show up in images. Also, trying on items is REQUIRED. The profile of a band, or the where the exact length of a necklace falls is so important. Only when you try things on can you truly tell how it’s going to feel and move on you.

18K Yellow Gold Chrysoprase and Pave Diamond Ring, $5390 Retail

I’ll warn you, though, that if you do get to see Irene’s jewelry in person, it’s going to ruin you. Not only is she a savant in her use of color, the details in her designs are spectacular. The bezels around the gems are scalloped and catch the light just so. The chains are just the right link, length, and scale. The matte finish on the gold? Perfect. The clasps are beautifully made, and many have a safety catch.

Her color palette is pretty unusual for a fine/couture jewelry designer. Many fine jewelry designers play it safe by working with universally recognizable gems. Irene chooses jewels that have traditionally been gem specimens and elevates them to extraordinary: Labradorite, Boulder Opal, Chrysoprase.

18K Rose Gold Labradorite and Onyx Pendant, $10,980 Retail

Besides her amazing color palette, the cut of the gems plays center stage in Irene’s designs. Many of the gems featured are rose-cut. Rose-cutting brings out the color and depth of the gems she uses, and still allows them to have a flat back to rest against the skin. Sometimes perfectly-set diamonds wrap around the stones, providing some sparkling contrast to the color and texture of the center stones.

18K Rose Gold Chrysoprase, Labradorite, and Onyx Earrings, $6600 Retail

In my conversation with Irene, I commented about how some of her designs seem built around a particularly appealing gem, and asked what her design process looks like. Irene said that with some of the pieces using bezel-set gems, those are cut to her specifications by her gem dealer. But others, such as the boulder opals, she starts with the gems first, playing with them until she has the design just right.

18K Yellow Gold Turquoise, Moonstone, and One-of-a-Kind Boulder Opal Pendant, $10,520 Retail

I also asked if there was a category (rings, bracelets, earrings, etc.) that she particularly loved to design? She laughed and said that was hard. Obviously, she has designed everything in the case, from narrow bangles to shoulder-grazing earrings. But right now, her current pleasure is designing the larger bezel-set necklaces.

18K Yellow Gold Bezel-set Chrysoprase Necklace, $11,780 Retail

Irene’s jewelry straddles the line between the more staid jewelry industry and the fickle fashion industry. Her pieces have an amazing sense of color and design that feel more like fashion, but manage to be precious and timeless at the same time. I especially love that she designs with women as her audience, versus designing what men think women should like. Women should be unapologetic about pursuing and buying fine jewelry that makes them happy.

18K Yellow Gold Rainbow Moonstone and Rose-cut Diamond Ring, $9170 Retail

They always carry a collection of Irene’s jewelry at Mario’s, so if you are in Seattle, stop in to take a look. Or check out her website to see the other retailers who carry her jewelry.

Just don’t say I didn’t warn you.

View this post on idazzle.com: Designer Spotlight: A Conversation with Irene Neuwirth