*Just in time for Valentine’s Day, Aroc Urtu has arranged for an amazing 20% discount on any orders from their site now through March 1st, 2012, using code vday2012.*

Aroc Urtu Ruby Rings

The Jewelry of Aroc Urtu

The jewelry of Aroc Urtu sits close to the body, warms to the touch, and patinas with wear and time. In short, this is jewelry that feels as good as it looks. It also has a conscience: all of their metals are recycled, diamonds and gemstones are from non-conflict sources, and all pieces are manufactured in New York City versus overseas.

Aroc Urtu has a few different collections, each with their own unique feel and energy. Their Beach Stone jewelry collection is perhaps most evocative of their signature style. Beach stones in soothing colors, polished naturally smooth by countless years in the water and sand, were washed up on shore to be discovered by the designers personally. This, and the contrast of the sharply faceted precious stones set seamlessly into them, define their style perfectly. Recycled gold and silver add a touch of responsible shine to the designs.

Flora and Fauna riff on other themes from nature: twigs and branches, feathers, cute little bunnies, serpentine snakes. Everything is textural, almost as if it’s been cast from the real thing (though in the case of the rabbit, not!). Mezcla, intriguingly named, consists of interesting outlines and cuts of gemstones, not perfectly symmetrical, set softly into sterling silver and 14kt gold.

Aroc Urtu White Beach Stone Earrings with Pink Sapphires in Sterling Silver, Retail $232.

Their most recent design foray delves into the engagement ring category. Aptly named “I DO“, it’s a collection for those looking for something other than a traditional prong-set round brilliant diamond. Softly hued natural diamond slices or rose cuts are bezel set into silver, rose and yellow gold settings. Simple pave eternity bands pair with the organic shapes beautifully, and even sparkle through the diamond slices. Also in the collection are necklaces, bracelets and earrings for wearing or presenting for the big wedding day, all with a very natural aesthetic.

Stack of Aroc Urtu I DO rings with natural color slice and rose cut diamonds in rose, yellow and white gold that enhance their beauty.

The Aroc Urtu Interview

idazzle: What was the inspiration and impetus of your new “I Do” collection?
Aroc Urtu: There aren’t many jewelers in the market right now catering to brides who are looking for earthier more organic pieces on their big day. We’re trying to fill that void with Aroc Urtu I DO, which focuses on unique, one of a kind gems like diamond slices, rough diamonds and rosecuts set in anything from engagement rings and wedding bands to bridesmaids gifts and symbolic jewels.

Aroc Urtu Rose Cut Black Diamond stud earrings set in Sterling Silver, Retail $468.

Aroc Urtu Emerald Slice Necklace in 14kt gold on an adjustable natural leather cord, Retail $1325.

Wow, you do that yourself!!? It’s even more impressive than I thought! What was the original inspiration of setting the faceted stones into the smooth beach stones?
We’ve both been collectors of stones and shells for years. To us, the untreated beach stones we’ve been finding on beaches around the world are equally as beautiful as fine gemstones that are cut and polished by stonecutters. It seemed only natural to combine the two to achieve that perfect balance of sparkly and earthy.

Aroc Urtu Diamond Dotted Branch Earrings in oxidized Sterling Silver, Retail $500.

Aroc Urtu Square Rough Cut Diamond set into yellow gold, shown with eternity band.

Your pieces sit so low and comfortable to the body. Do you think that jewelry design is moving towards ergonomic versus traditional prongs?
Lauren: Personally we prefer a ring that has the stones sitting as low to the finger as possible. Some stones are cut deep (height from the bottom, or culet, of the stone to the top, or table). Sapphires, for example, often require a deep bottom to maximize color intensity. In these instances the stone dictates how low it can be. But often times stones, particularly diamonds, are set way up high as a way to basically show them off. Not our taste. Even with faceted gemstones we keep them as low as possible, whether it is bezel or prong set, for a more understated look. One of the things we love so much about slices is that they have a flat bottom and can sit right on the finger.

A signature of many of your pieces are the beach stones, many of which you source yourselves on travels. With all the press recently, any danger that you will run out of stones?
Sarah: It’s funny because there was a time that we were definitely worried about that. Luckily, there’s no shortage of beach stones on the beach in front of our family home in Bridgehampton. Sometimes we send the boys out during high tide with shovels to scoop bunches of them up into buckets. We’re also lucky enough to have great friends who are kind enough to bring back stones from their travels around the world. It’s the best way to have variety!

Aroc Urtu Beach Stone necklace with champagne diamond slice in rose gold bezel and chain, Retail $1200.

You are committed to responsible manufacturing: recycled metals, zero environmental impact with your beach stones, even your packaging is hemp! Has this been more difficult than traditional manufacturing?
Lauren: When we started out two years ago vendors would look at us like we were speaking martian when we’d ask if they used recycled metals. Now, while still the exception, it is much easier to find jewelers, casters, etc. who are working from the perspective of environmental responsibility. Awareness of conflict diamonds and rubies from Burma that were supporting the oppressive government has increased tremendously as has our own government’s vigilance over the importation of these “dirty stones”. And while, yes, it is easier to work in ways that harm the Earth less, being aware of our roles as caretakers of this miraculous planet we live on requires constant effort. While Sarah and I see many of our fellow designers moving production overseas to keep expenses down, we have chosen to keep everything here in NYC where we can be more vigilant. We also believe in and support the talent of our local jewelers who are watching jobs go overseas at an ever increasing rate.

How would someone go about custom designing a piece of Aroc Urtu jewelry?
We try to accommodate all custom requests as long as they’re in line with the vibe of the brand. We’ll always stay true to using only Kimberly certified diamonds, non-Burmese rubies, and recycled metals. Email us at sarah@arocurtu.com and Lauren@arocurtu.com if you have an inquiry and we’ll be happy to discuss any custom requests you may have!

Aroc Urtu Eternity Bands, featuring hand-cut micro-pave details in rose, yellow and white gold, Retail $1800 each band.

What’s the most interesting custom design request that you have received?
One of our favorite custom orders was for a client who wanted some fabulous earrings to wear to her sister’s wedding. They had to be earthy to go with her personal style, yet elegant enough to make a statement at the over-the-top black tie event. We created a pair of chandelier earrings that had approximately 20 carats of autumn colored sliced diamonds and almost two carats of rose cut white diamonds. Needless to say, they were a big hit.

They sound fabulous! Where can readers find your designs?
For one, on our website www.arocurtu.com. We’re also carried in select specialty boutiques like Thistle & Clover in Brooklyn, Albertine in the West Village, and The Styleliner – a unique mobile shopping experience! Be sure to check the stockists page of our website for updates!

Aroc Urtu new earring design for Fall 2012.

What’s next for Aroc Urtu?
Lauren: Sarah and I couldn’t be more excited about our two upcoming collections. For summer we’re launching our Sea, Sand, and Sky collection that will incorporate Thai Gold, seafoam emeralds, and water blue sapphires. And for fall we’ve become obsessed with baroque pearls (I told you not to get me started), sliced rubies and emeralds with pave diamonds. We can’t wait to show you!

Where and How to Find Aroc Urtu Jewelry

If you would like to purchase Aroc Urtu’s designs, visit their website at www.arocurtu.com, or to visit a store that carries their designs you can find a location here. As a special Valentine’s Day, you can take 20% off of any jewelry on their site, Feb 1st through March 1st, 2012, using code vday2012 at check out. It’s an amazing opportunity to own a piece of wearable art at a justifiable price!

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Aroc Urtu Jewelry Interview

IcedOrchid.com sent me a lovely pair of earrings, as an example of their jewelry quality. Alas, I can’t keep them: it’s not a gift to me in exchange for a favorable review. I didn’t want anything to potentially color my review, so I sent them back. But I’m not sure I wanted to!

IcedOrchid.com Engagement Ring Setting with Round Center Diamond

The IcedOrchid.com Company

I’ve been aware of IcedOrchid.com for a while, but it was their recent mention in a Glamour.com article about engagement rings under $1850 that really got my attention. I went to their site and checked out the ring–I was absolutely convinced that the $1762 price quoted was just for the mounting, not the center stone diamond as well. To my surprise, the white gold setting was completed by a .50 carat round diamond with a nice cut (AGS 1 rating), color (F), and clarity (SI1), with a lab report from the pinnacle of reputable labs, American Gem Society Laboratory.

The company, started recently, but with many years of experience in the jewelry industry, tries very hard for that excellent value proposition. They say that they target an entry-level price point in the market, but I find their offerings to be classic and enduring styles (unlike some of the awful things I’ve seen in malls). On their clean, simple site you can find a large assortment of engagement ring and wedding band designs, as well as a small collection of diamond jewelry such as earrings, pendants and bracelets. But would the jewelry itself live up to the quality and construction that they promise to consumers on their site?

IcedOrchid.com Engagement Ring Setting with Baguette Side Stones

The Review

The earrings I reviewed are the 1.50 Ct Tw Inside-Out Diamond Hoops in white gold, $1761 Retail. They are named “Inside Out” because the front of the hoop is set with diamonds, and the inside of the back of the hoop is also set, which is what you see from the front. I thought these would be a good to review because they are a great gift idea or jewelry essential for a jewelry collection. Plus, they would show IcedOrchid.com’s typical diamond quality, how well they match their stones, their diamond-setting skill, polish and finishing.

The earrings arrived very securely packaged, and I finally uncovered the fancy wood and leather-ette presentation box containing the earrings inside. For some reason, I was pleasantly surprised by how much the diamonds sparkled against the black lining of the box. Maybe it’s the reasonable price, maybe I’m just jaded, but I’ve seen a lot of mediocre quality out there for diamond basics. These earrings are REALLY pretty.

Inside-Out Diamond Hoops 1.50 Ct Tw, $1761 Retail

There are 60 diamonds totaling 1.50 carats, and all are listed at G-H color and VS2 clarity. I 10X-louped them in the setting, which isn’t quite like seeing them unmounted, but that quality appears to be what is set into the earrings I received. No major flaws, and all bright white in the white gold setting. Though each diamond itself is small, in the clean straight-line shared prong setting they have a lot of presence, even from across the room. I liked how short and curved the posts are, because they won’t tip forward on your ear and expose the earring hole, and they have a hinged closure that has a satisfying *snap* to close (makes them feel very secure on the ears).

Scale is one of the most challenging parts of ordering ANYTHING on line, especially for jewelry which is not branded. The detail pages on IcedOrchid.com’s website helpfully lists all the details of each piece of jewelry, but really, does anyone know what 26 X 1.6 MM really looks like? The 1.50 carat pair has a hoop diameter almost exactly that of a US quarter, so you can hold that up to your ear and get a feel for the scale.

This is a VERY wearable size and style of diamond hoop earring. Personally for myself, I would want a larger diameter, but I like pretty bold jewelry. The carat weight, scale, sparkle and finish of these make these earrings the perfect jewelry essential of a diamond hoop for most people. If someone is quite demure in their style, then diamond stud earrings or the 1 carat total weight of these same hoops would be good. (Hint to IcedOrchid: maybe make a larger diameter pair, maybe 30MMs with 2 Carats or so of diamonds–those I would NOT send back! Edited after published, I found this pair of 2 Ct TW Inside Out Hoops with a 28mm diameter on their site.)

Trio of Classic Rings From IcedOrchid.com

A Little Q and A with IcedOrchid.com

idazzle.com: What is the history and story of the company and founders?

IcedOrchid.com: IcedOrchid.com is a young American company, founded by a family that has been involved in the jewelry business for years. What began as a spirited family discussion regarding the direction of the industry turned into words of action in the creation of IcedOrchid.com. IcedOrchid.com was established as an online retail store, to market beautiful yet affordable diamond jewelry to people who thought they could never afford luxury. Targeting the bottom of the pyramid for luxury, IcedOrchid.com’s mission is to show the average working man or woman that luxury diamond jewelry is available to them at a fair price without compromising quality.

What do you feel is unique or special about the IcedOrchid.com company and website (in other words, why should customers shop with you)?

What separates IcedOrchid.com from its competitors is the company’s effort to keep the engagement process as simple, stress-free and enjoyable as possible through its easy-to-use website. While the company has a large inventory and thousands of styles, it doesn’t display everything it carries. Rather, the products that are displayed are those that follow seasonal trends as well as those backed by research statistics on best selling items. Even the promotions the company runs are direct and target the audience its products are tailored for. Further, IcedOrchid.com is unique in that all its products come from a single source ensuring top quality while also allowing it’s diamond consultants to personally check or inspect an item upon request from a customer.

Do you have some exciting things launching/happening in 2011?

IcedOrhcid.com starts 2011 with an exciting contest running on Facebook called “Operation Proposal”target=_blank. This contest is run in collaboration with Operation Gratitude, a NGO that sends care packages to deployed soldiers around the worlds. “Operation Proposal” is open to every American who has a valid military card and to veterans as well. Contestants are encouraged to upload photos and stories of their proposals (past or future) on IcedOrchid.com’s Facebook page, and then get their friends and families to support their entries. The contest ends on Feb 6th with the winner being announced on Valentine’s day. The contestant with the highest number of votes will win him/herself a gorgeous diamond engagement ring worth $4500.

Also, on January 15th 2011, IcedOchid.com offers consumers a unique opportunity to see its jewelry display in person at booth 718 at the Hartford CT Bridal Expo!

Come March 2011, IcedOrchid.com will be launching its first spring collection! Keep visiting the website www.icedorchid.com and its Facebook page to view new styles, new diamonds and other exciting additions.

Thank you, IcedOrchid.com for sending the earrings for review, and sharing your thoughts about your company! I like what you’re doing so far with your website! One suggestion that would make the shopping experience even better is to have really *snappy* images of the jewelry–when you are online, you have one chance to impress the customer! Also, illustrating scale of the jewelry, like a photo of it on a model, or against something that shows its dimensions. I recommend paying attention to the way that the best fashion sites represent things, and of course, disclosing all the details about the quality, as you are doing. Can’t wait to see IcedOrchid.com’s Spring 2011 collection!

View this post on idazzle.com: Retailer Spotlight: Review of IcedOrchid.com

But now it’s 14 years later, and that Marquise cut in 14kt yellow gold has snagging prongs and a certain, how shall we say, patina about it. Your love hasn’t changed, but your style definitely has, and the jeweler is saying that the setting, worn faithfully through vacations, dinner parties, desk jobs and diaper changes, needs some maintenance.

Engagement rings incorporate diamonds primarily because their beauty and durability represent a symbol of eternal love. The reality is that there can be a finite life for the metals that the diamonds are set into, due to wear and tear. But there’s another little secret: maybe style is a finite entity, too. Perhaps the ring design never really {ahem} reflected your taste to begin with. Or maybe it’s just that your style has become more defined as the years pass. At some point in your married life you might catch yourself gazing at your ring and wondering…what if?

Have a Marquise (or Pear or Oval) shape? This Danhov Halo Setting can make this cut look its elegant best. Style ME160 available from Samuel Gordon Jeweler.

Every relationship is different, but I think it can be a good thing to change your setting, or even your whole ring including the center stone, to reflect who you are. The important thing is what the ring symbolizes: you may change your ring, but the sentiment attached stays the same.

Want something more than a basic solitaire? This Annalise setting by Erica Courtney is a modern take on a feminine curved setting. Added bonus is that your diamond will look lots bigger surrounded by those accent diamonds.

First Step: Research

Once you’ve broached the subject with your significant other–highly recommended–then it’s time to do some research. Pay attention to people’s rings as you go about your daily life. If someone has gotten engaged recently, make a note of whether you like the style or not. Or check out the Top Engagement Trends or Beautiful Bezels articles on this site, there are some great designs to start your day dreaming, and lots of Jewelry Designer links to explore in our Trusted Links section.

This Nicholas James setting is sleek, sculptural and practical. Shown in Platinum with round accent diamonds, contact Nicholas James for more information.

Try It On!

Once you have a few ideas or tear sheets, GO SHOPPING! It’s kind of like the wedding dress, where you dreamed of a particular style, then you tried it on and realized it was as flattering as, well, Bjork’s Swan Dress. Just like clothes, you must see diamonds and rings in person and try them on. This is not a decision to take lightly, it’s probably the most sentimental and costly piece of jewelry you own!

On the other hand, don’t be paralyzed into indecision because you’re afraid of making a mistake: remember that wisdom and experience gleaned from already wearing your ring will help guide you to something that makes sense for your life right now. If your ring sat too high for you to wear comfortably, go low or prong-less for the next setting. Did you diamond seem too small for your finger? Try a halo of diamonds around the stone to make it appear much more significant. If your ultra-traditional setting didn’t suit your avant-garde sense of style, seek out an independent designer to do the next ring.

Bezel settings can be an amazing update for a sleepy diamond. Wendy Brandes designs these substantial bands with flawless bezels flattering the center diamond to be all-in-one engagement/wedding rings.

The Logistics

Once you find a style that makes your heart beat faster, you need an expert to help you figure out if that setting will work with your stone. Some settings will need new prongs, or a new bezel, to fit your particular stone. Sometimes the whole ring needs to be custom made around the stone and your finger size.

Want ultra-clean and modern? Completely custom-made for each diamond, this compression-set solitaire setting by Steven Kretchmer Designs holds the diamond with 12,000 pounds per square inch of pressure. Setting alone starts at around $2000 Retail, Avail at Lux Bond and Green.

At some point in the process, there will come a time when you will have to leave your diamond with the designer or jeweler to make a wax mold or to re-set it. Here’s a refresher of my tips for leaving your ring or stone with a jeweler (for an in-depth article about leaving your jewelry for repair or appraisal, click here):

1. Bring in your appraisal or diamond lab report, if you have one, to the jeweler.
2. Look at the stone with the jeweler, under magnification, and decide together how to identify the stone: most diamonds will have some distinguishing characteristic to identify under 10 power magnification.
3. Discuss a value that you and the jeweler are both comfortable with for the diamond or ring to be insured while at the jeweler.
4. Get that value in writing, along with a description of the specific work to be done, on a repair form that you sign.
5. When you go back to pick the ring up, have the jeweler help you identify your diamond again.

Looking for a ring that doesn't have an Engagement Ring vibe? This Milky Way ring by Nina Basharova makes a beautiful statement whether on the right or left hand, and can be totally customized to your diamond. Avail from Manika Jewelry.

Bottom Line

You don’t need to feel guilty or bad about changing your setting: you should feel nothing but joy when you look at the ring on your finger! We hope this information helps start you on the path to a new, gorgeous setting if you need to change your ring for any reason. If you need help finding your ring, drop me a line here and I can set you up with an amazing retailer or designer in your area.

If you're looking for unusual, this Lotus setting from Gemvara has amazing details. In 18kt Yellow Gold with round accent diamonds, $9102 with a 1.02 ct Round Diamond in center.

View this post on idazzle.com: How to Reset Your Engagement Ring (and Why It’s Okay to Change Your Mind)

One setting style that can work for a lot of vibrant, active women is a bezel. A bezel is a lip of metal that wraps around the center stone partially or fully to hold the stone. This does a couple of things. First of all, it should hold the stone securely, since a higher percentage of metal (compared to prongs) is contacting the stone. Second, it protects all or part of the edge of the diamond, which can be vulnerable to damage. I know that a lot of people think diamonds are impervious, but they can be chipped or even broken if they are struck just right (it has to do with the atomic bonds being slightly less strong in certain directions). And finally, bezels just look cool and have a sculptural design aesthetic.

The Ultimate Bezel Setting? Wendy Brandes Gravity Engagement Ring can be custom made for your center stone.

Bezel settings may not be for everyone. It can cover a lot of the profile of the diamond, which some people really want to see. If the bezel isn’t constructed correctly, the diamond can still get loose and even fall out. And they can be hard to clean if the bezels are very enclosed. But when they are done well, bezels can be like women themselves: gorgeous, resilient, and brilliant!

Sethi Couture does some gorgeous bezel settings using Rose cut and fancy colored diamonds. These rings make a statement, but still have a classic element:

Gorgeous Bezel Setting Designs by Sethi Couture, featuring Rose cut and fancy color diamonds, starting at $3500 Retail

This designer, Lisa Krikawa, does some great bezel settings, all very customizable. This tri-color gold Mokume Gane setting has a simple, clean outline but lots of texture and interest:

Krikawa Mokume Cathedral Engagement Ring, starting at $2655 Retail

This innovative site, Gemvara, allows you to customize your jewelry purchase almost infinitely. This bypass partial bezel flatters many fingers and is incredibly wearable, available for different diamond sizes–or a rainbow of colored gems–in 14kt yellow or white gold, 18kt yellow or white gold, and platinum:

Gemvara Embrace Bypass Setting in 14kt Gold w/ center .57ct Round Diamond, $1493 Retail

Not into diamonds for your center stone? A bezel and a gorgeous colored gemstone can be a magical combination for a stand-out ring. This design is by talented designer and metalsmith Danielle Miller:

Danielle Miller Tsavorite and Diamond Bezel Set Ring

If a center stone is just not your style, there are lots of bands that use bezels beautifully. This Ritani design from Kranich’s Jewelry incorporates sleek bezels all around the finger for a distinctive–and wearable–look:

Ritani 31203BRP Platinum Eternity Band with Diamonds from Kranich's Jewelers, price and carat weight vary by finger size

What’s your favorite bezel? If you want to try on amazing bezel settings, contact me here and I can recommend a fantastic local jeweler to check out!

View this post on idazzle.com: Beautiful Bezel Settings for Busy Women

Yellow Fever

Gold is back, baby! A few designers have gone back to–or never left–warm, rich yellow gold as a medium. Diamonds seem to sparkle more as they stand out in white relief from the world’s most popular metal.

Gabriel and Co. makes a number of settings using gold, including this engagement ring and wedding band combo.

Gabriel and Co. Engagement Set W-ER4333 in 18K Yellow Gold

The very talented Alex Sepkus has worked in yellow gold for a long time. I love his Klimt-like interpretations, and the finish on his gold is amazing.

Alex Sepkus 18K Bezel Setting from McCaskill and Co.

Head-Turning Crowns

This trend is all about the head, or the prongs that the center diamond is put into. Several designers have elevated this into an art form, with intricate profiles that look like tiaras.

This engagement ring by Jewels by Erica Grace has a stunning presence; the lines are lovely and very-well executed:

Julia Setting by Erica Grace, $2125 Retail in 18K Gold

This stand-out ring from Erica Courtney actually hits on two trends: intricate profile, AND it is yellow gold. You can go with a scrolled pave diamond gallery underneath the diamond, or personalize it with initials.

Ellen Setting by Erica Courtney with Custom Initial, Retails Starting at $10,200 for 18K with a 1 Ct. Center Diamond

Rare Form

Some designers are doing interesting things with the shape of the bands, casting or carving in sculptural reliefs. The result is a design that elevates and challenges traditional perception.

This interwoven band from custom atelier, 23rd Street Jewelers, elegantly showcases their work.

Style SMR3620 from 23rd Street Jewelers, Avail As Is for $41,500, or Custom

This engagement ring from Krikawa manages to be delicate and modern at the same time, and can be customized. I especially like how the prongs twist up from the band design to wrap around the diamond:

Delicate Leaf Setting from Krikawa, Retail Starts at $2640 for 14Kt Gold

This is a very unusual combination of 18K rose and white gold from MaeVona at E.E. Robbins, with the feel of modern sculpture:

Eriskay Setting by MaeVona in 18K Rose and White Gold, $1850 Retail

Perennial Vintage

The vintage look continues on its white-hot run. There is something inherently familiar about these Art Deco, Art Nouveau, Retro and Victorian styles. In addition to the beauty and integrity in the lines, there is some confidence that the designs will be timeless.

You can go actual vintage or antique (anything at least 100 years old), or with a new vintage-style setting. With actual vintage, the designs are often exquisite and the hand-cut stones have a warmth and personality all their own.

Platinum Art Deco Engagement Ring Circa 1920's, .95 Ct Center, $8000 Retail

Vintage reproductions have the advantage of estate style with new, crisp manufacturing and modern brilliant stones.

Design house Tacori does a nice collection of vintage-inspired-but-modern, you can find them at great retailers across the country:

Tacori Engraved Platinum Setting with Baguettes, Style Ref #HT2350

And no one does intricate platinum pave–or double claw prongs–better than this craftsman, Leon Mege:

Platinum Pave Setting for Cushion Cut by Leon Mege

A.B.T. (Anything But Traditional)

I am happy to see this trend gaining momentum. Engagement rings are meant to symbolize a commitment to your partner, and that can look very different to each person or couple.

Designer Conroy + Wilcox reinterprets the classic single stone engagement ring with the soft sparkle of a grey rose-cut diamond and handmade bezel, from Erie Basin:

Conroy+Wilcox .50 Ct Grey Diamond in 18K Yellow Gold, $1740

Also from Erie Basin, this ring from the 1880′s has a romantic, Gothic feel with its navette shape and blackened silver around the Old European and Rose-cut diamonds:

1880's Victorian Diamond Ring from Erie Basin, $4700 Retail

This curving band by Beverly K from Greenwich Jewelers with blackened finish would make a delicate statement as an alternative engagement ring:

14K Beverly K Infinity Band from Greenwich Jewelers, $800 Retail

If diamonds just aren’t your thing, this simply sculptural ring from Gemvara is lustrous–and infinitely customizable–in 18kt rose gold with a Sapphire center stone.

18K Rose Gold and Sapphire Ring from Gemvara, $1362 as shown

If you want to find out where to purchase these or other engagement rings, click here to drop me a line so that I can refer you to a great jeweler in your area.

What is your favorite ring or trend? Comment and add others!

View this post on idazzle.com: Top 5 Engagement Ring Trends for 2010

I first stumbled upon Leon Mege and his custom platinum ring designs online. And even from images online, I could tell that his craft was at an entirely different level than most of the rest of the jewelry business.

Cushion Cut in Platinum Solitaire Setting by Leon Mege, love those double claw prongs!

The Jewelry

To say that Leon Mege makes rings would be akin to saying that Rembrandt made paintings. He can make a ring for a ridiculous-size center diamond, or make an exceptional setting for a .75 carat if you want. If he does make something for you, no one in your circle is going to have a ring remotely in the same league. Particularly if you are looking for an Asscher cut, Cushion cut, or a Halo setting, I can truly say “nobody does it better”.

The designs themselves are exceptional: a certain savant in their proportions, just the right curve here and bend there. His colored gem pieces show an amazing dexterity of form and color combination.

AGTA Award Winning Paraiba Tourmaline and Diamond Ring by Leon Mege

Beyond the designs, the execution is what truly sets Leon’s rings apart. Each ring is fabricated by hand–no molds. The proportions are worked out, then the stones all laid out, drilled, set, beaded, and finished. It takes a cadre of the most skilled craftsmen in his studio/workshop in New York some 6 weeks to make one (one!) bespoke ring.

While I was in the studio, I got to see some exceptional one-of-a-kind pieces, including the ring below. This ruby ring belongs on someone’s finger (for some reason I think it should be in LA, but maybe I’m wrong). Each “petal” started out as a sheet of silver metal. Then it has to be molded into its undulating leaf shape, and the pattern of the stones is laid out. Each tiny hole for each stone is drilled, then the rubies are set with tiny pave beads on top, and the bottom of the leaf is azured. When he started the project, Leon did not know for sure how many stones would be used, but somehow, the number of rubies came out to exactly 500. And the number of diamonds came to exactly 50. Serendipity of symmetry and balance…

Ruby and Orange Diamond Ring by Leon Mege, $35,000 Retail

The History

Leon arrived in New York City in 1988. Trained in jewelry fabrication in his native Russia, he was employed in the jewelry trade literally on his second day in the US (that should tell you something about his ambition and work ethic). He got his Gemology degrees from GIA, and eventually started his own shop here on 47th St. Up until about 2 years ago, he was the secret weapon for the most prestigious retailers in NYC, making rings for celebrities and some of the most influential glitterati in the city. But his designs deserve a name, so a couple of years ago he shifted the business from a trade-only custom shop to a private-appointment atelier selling directly to the end customer.

The shift to almost-retailer has been a very good one, giving Leon the name recognition he needs and customers direct communication with the man himself. A remarkable number of details can get lost in translation from customer to retail salesperson to the craftsman. This way, the customer gets EXACTLY what they want.

Magnificent Cold Fusion Halo Setting for a 3 Carat Cushion, Leon Mege

The Process

If you are interested in having Leon and company make a ring for you, keep in mind that this is not a traditional store. You need to follow some rules of engagement. You make an appointment. You may not see a ring at all during your visit, just images of designs. He will set your own stone, if it is appropriate for the mounting you want and can be set safely. If you need a diamond, especially a significant or unusual Cushion cut or Asscher cut, you can speak to Perry Chen, the Diamond Concierge of the business. Perry can find you the right diamond–at an extremely competitive price–and you get the synergies of working with them from sourcing the stone to the finished ring.

This is a craftsman whose name should be in the company of Faberge, and the original Cartier. Years from now, his pieces may be listed by name in auction catalogs and command those values. If you have Leon Mege make a ring for you, you can count yourself among celebrities, collectors, and connoisseurs.

Leon hard at work at the jewelry bench.

View this post on idazzle.com: Leon Mege, The Most Beautiful Rings In The World?

Here are the details:

We designed the idazzle Diamond Prices iPhone application to help you make a very informed diamond decision at a local jeweler. Before shopping, or even at the store, you can use the nifty interface to instantly get the best price you should pay for a diamond at physical jewelry store, for FREE. While online diamond prices are easily accessible from your mobile device, until we launched this app, there wasn’t any information about what price you should pay at a physical jewelry store.

Click on the image to be linked to the idazzle Diamond Prices iPhone App!

Diamond Prices

We have prices for 4 diamond shapes, 7 carat weight sizes, 7 colors, 7 clarities, and 4 cut grades. We have carefully researched this database to be within competitive range of the best online diamond prices. If you pay our recommended price at a local jewelry store, you are getting a great deal.

Diamond 4C’s Information

You can also access our advice and information on diamond factors that influence price. We tell you what quality range to stay within so you end up with a gorgeous diamond, without overpaying for factors that aren’t essential.

Find a Local Jeweler

If you are interested in buying a diamond at the idazzle Price, but don’t know a jeweler in your area, you can send us a request from the idazzle Diamond Prices App. We are building a database of pre-screened, reputable jewelers who are interested in giving you the best service and the best value!

idazzle wants you to make the best diamond decision at a local jeweler! Check it out and tell me what you think…

View this post on idazzle.com: idazzle Diamond Prices iPhone App is Now Free!

Full disclosure: I just released a Diamond Price iPhone application in November 2009, called idazzle Diamond Prices. Yes, we provide diamond pricing information and diamond education as well, and sell it for the same price (.99 cents). At that price, compared to the price of the app development, we should see a profit somewhere around, ohhh, 2015. So I am not reviewing this with the intent that I want to sell more units than they do. I really could care less about sales. I mostly did the app to actually be HELPFUL to consumers, and to provide some interesting cross-traffic and support the information on the idazzle website. For the idazzle Diamond Price app, we provide a suggested price that a consumer should pay IN A PHYSICAL JEWELRY STORE, and that price is slightly more than an online-only retailer for some very good reasons outlined here.

iDiamond App Features

All in all the iDiamonds App is very clear and easy to use, with the standard Apple wheel-thingy to help you scroll through various factors to come up with their Suggested Retail, and the Price Per Carat. I find it quite “light” in that they have 2 shape choices, “Round” and the very generic “Fancy”. I know from my extensive diamond pricing research that different diamond shapes have very different pricing, so I’m not sure how helpful/accurate/useful it is to lump ALL shapes other than round into one category. Also, nowhere on the app do they define the cut grade they use for their Suggested Retails. The Diamond Cut grade is simply THE most important factor in determining price. It is so important that the idazzle Diamond Price App calls out distinct pricing for four cut grades: Ideal, Very Good, Good, and Fair. The iDiamonds GIA-sponsored diamond education information is moderately helpful–it’s the same info consumers see over and over on almost any diamond website.

iDiamonds Pricing

The thing I take serious issue with is their main purpose: Diamond Prices. If their pricing is supposed to define Suggested Retail Pricing for Consumers, consumers are going to find their wallets considerably lighter if they follow the iDiamond pricing guide. My initial gut response that the prices were high was confirmed when I did a brief analysis on 4 diamond size/shape combinations. To be clear, iDiamonds talks about consumers buying at a discount from their Suggested Retails; they say the discount depends on the retail channel, cut grade, the grading lab used, and other factors. But they never define a discount (20% off their suggested price for an internet retailer, 10% off for a physical retailer, for example). It seems to me that by trying to be endorsed by the industry, they have made their pricing so high as to be completely useless. And borderline ludicrous.

I compared a certified .50 ct Round, 1.00 ct Round, 1.50 ct Asscher, and 2.00 ct Round in quality ranges most consumers would shop for. I found that for the .50 ct and 1.00 ct Rounds, their Suggested Retail prices were 54% OVER the actual price of a comparable diamond I found on Blue Nile (the 1.50 ct Asscher and 2 ct Round weren’t much better at 41% and 27% over, respectively). In comparison, the idazzle Diamond Price suggestion from my app was 3% more for the .50 ct Round and 16% more for the 1.00 ct Round. So if a .50 ct Round, H color, VS2 clarity, Very Good cut diamond sells for $1227 on Blue Nile, idazzle recommends paying $1265, and iDiamonds recommends paying $2663.50, over twice as much!

Bottom Line

Sure, you can spend the .99 cents and get the iDiamonds App. If you can glean some nugget of information from this that will help you make a better diamond decision, fantastic! But I cannot in good conscience recommend that you actually use their pricing as a guide. Please, before you purchase anything, do some research. Spend some time poking around the idazzle website. Get some idea of what online prices are, get a price or two from a reputable, local jeweler and then make an informed decision that will also be a great value.

Click on the image to be linked to the idazzle Diamond Prices iPhone App!

View this post on idazzle.com: Review of iDiamonds iPhone Application

Every diamond sparkles; no one can just look at a diamond and tell you the exact origin. So how do you make sure that the symbol of your love hasn’t hurt anyone else in its journey?

1.50 Ct. Asscher Cut F, VS2 Diamond from Brilliant Earth $11,210 Retail

What is the Kimberly Process?

The Kimberly Process is a UN-mandated system, and was developed by the diamond industry, NGO’s and interested governments in 2000 as a way to track and certify rough diamond origins. There are approximately 74 countries represented, with participating members adhering to strict requirements to import or export only to other members. The diamond industry states that over 99% of diamonds entering the market now (post Kimberly Process) are certified to be from conflict-free sources.

How the Kimberly Process works.

Here is a rundown of how the Kimberly Process and its System of Warranties works to keep conflict diamonds out of the market:
1. Mining: After mining, diamonds are transported to the Government Diamond Office.
2. Export: The source of the diamonds is checked to be conflict-free, then the diamonds are sealed into a tamper-resistant package, and assigned a Government-generated Kimberly Process certificate with a unique serial number.
3. Import: The importing government customs office checks the certificate and seal. If the seal is broken or the Kimberly Certificate is tampered with in any way, the package is turned back or impounded in customs.
4. Cutting/Manufacturing/Trading: Once a diamond has been legitimately exported and imported into a member country, it can be cut and then set into finished jewelry. Each time the diamond changes hands, a warranty must be provided on each invoice stating that the diamond is from a certified non-conflict source. Manufacturers are required to audit these records and keep them for 5 years minimum. Click here to see an example of an invoice with a warranty.
5. Retail: The onus is on the retail jeweler to ensure that the diamonds they stock are conflict-free. The retailers are provided a warranty on their invoices from suppliers that the diamonds are from conflict-free sources. The retailers are required to audit their invoices and keep records for 5 years. The System of Warranties does NOT require that the customer receive a warranty on their receipt that the diamond they purchase is from a conflict-free source. But with the warranties passing from mine to suppliers to retailers, and with accountability to auditing, it is hoped that this system results in a conflict-free diamond for the customer.

Questions for your jeweler:

Any retailer or jeweler can claim their diamonds are conflict-free. But here’s what you should ask:
Can I see a copy of your store’s Conflict Diamond Policy?

Do you have diamonds that are certified from Canada or sources other than Africa?

Canadian Polar Bear Diamond Image Showing Inscription

If in serious doubt, buy Canadian or Estate / Antique.

Canadian diamonds weren’t discovered and mined until very recently, and the government has tried to respect and protect the indigenous people and the sensitive environments in the mine areas as much as possible. Most diamonds from Canadian sources have certificates and inscription numbers etched into their girdles to mark their provenance. Some brand names are Artic Fox, Polar Bear, Canadian Ice, etc. A couple of mines, Diavik and Ekati, are also known for their especially strict environmental standards, so that is another bonus.

Another option is buy an estate or antique diamond, which could always be set into a new mounting. You can be pretty assured that a diamond mined and cut prior to the 1980′s wasn’t part of the political unrest in Africa. It’s recycling taken to a higher level.

So does the Kimberly Process work?

Hmmm. I am very glad that it exists and it most definitely has prevented a significant number of diamonds from falling into the wrong hands. Does it do enough? NGO’s such as Global Witness say that the KP doesn’t go far enough to make the diamond market 100% conflict-free. Ultimately it is up to the consumer to demand that the diamonds they buy come from sources where diamonds do not endanger people’s lives or fund terror groups.

We are headed the right direction. Let’s be conscious, ask questions and be accountable as retailers and consumers.

View this post on idazzle.com: How To Buy a Conflict-Free Diamond

Cushion Diamond in Pave Setting from Mednikow Jewelers in Memphis and Atlanta

Here’s how to find a great, reputable jeweler in your area:

Ask your family, friends, and colleagues.

This can often be a good place to start. You should still apply the following tips and questions to their suggestion to make sure the recommendation is very qualified.

Search for key jewelry industry affiliations like AGS or JVC.

Once you have a recommendation, or if you still need a couple of names, there are some jewelry industry organizations that can be a good screening criteria. One of the first things I look for is membership in the American Gem Society. It’s a jewelry trade organization that requires high levels of product knowledge, and very strict ethical standards regarding representation and pricing. Jewelers who are members must be tested every year to maintain their membership. Another organization is the Jeweler’s Vigilance Committee, or JVC. This non-profit helps jewelers maintain high ethical standards by keeping their members up-to-date on all the legal compliance rules within the jewelry industry. JVC members pay dues and agree to uphold the ethics established through their own business practices. You can also contact JVC to find out if a jeweler has had a complaint lodged against them. Not all reputable jewelers are members of these orgs, nor does membership automatically guarantee a great customer experience, but it’s a good place to start.

Check for an online presence.

Once you have a couple of potential names, google or bing them. Some local jewelers are not terribly tech-savvy, but I prefer companies that have at least a decent online presence for a couple of reasons. First, it shows a certain commitment to innovation that I think is indicative of how they run their business in general. And second, if they are online they are one click away from any of their on-line competitors, and hopefully understand competitive pricing of diamonds and other jewelry basics that consumers are shopping for online. If they have some sort of verbage on their homepage or “About Me” that says they are committed to competitive pricing, so much the better. Once you have found their website, you can see what designers and jewelry lines they carry, and if their hours and location will work for you.

Now some questions for them…

Do they have a Certified or Graduate Gemologist on staff? A bench jeweler on-site for repairs? On-site jewelry appraiser? These criteria can predict a higher level of service for the customer. A GIA-educated salesperson (with a certificate from the Gemological Institute of America) can give you the best product knowledge and help you with your purchase. A bench jeweler located in the store can set, size, or repair most jewelry without it having to leave the store, and sometimes they can do it while you wait. An appraiser on staff can help assign a replacement value to your own jewelry or answer detailed product questions you might have.

How competitive is their pricing?

When I do my screening for my Local Jeweler recommendations, I will call potential jewelers to ask them about a certain size and quality of GIA or AGS-certified diamond. I do a lot of research online, so I know competitive pricing for online merchants and I feel that physical jewelers should be within about 15% of online diamond pricing. If they are much over that, it’s just not competitive for consumers and I move on. Physical jewelers have some good reasons to charge a little more for their diamonds: they keep some diamonds in stock vs. the feeds (lists) of diamonds that online loose diamond suppliers–most online retailers don’t actually have any diamonds in house. Carrying that inventory is capital-intensive for the physical jeweler. Good, reputable physical jewelers also have an educated staff to show you those actual diamonds and explain the quality and value differences to you. They can also help you select the best setting, and size and set it all for you. That’s a lot of overhead compared to lean online operations. For a recent post about on-line versus off-line mark ups, click here.

Once you have a couple of names, head in to the store.

Making an appointment isn’t a necessity, but it might be more efficient. A good jeweler will ask some key questions and really listen to what you’re looking for, and then can do some research before you come in. Set aside some time to really look around and talk to the salesperson. This is about a relationship. If you feel rushed, or feel like they have an agenda to stick something down your throat that is NOT what you are looking for, MOVE ON. You should be able to think things over and take your time making a decision. You should feel appreciated, taken care of, listened to, and leave feeling that you got a great VALUE. If there is something in your gut that doesn’t feel right, trust yourself and your instincts. There are lots of great jewelers out there; you will find one.

Bottom Line:

Dollar for dollar, sometimes the best value can be found at a local independent jeweler. You get the value of their knowledge and experience firsthand. The best jewelers are committed to their community, and often support important local philanthropic causes. They are nice people trying to make a living in a challenging industry, and truly want you to get the best quality and value. I have had opportunities to work with some great jewelers and have assembled a list of qualified referrals in a number of metro areas in the country. I am happy to pass along my vetted names of jewelers to those who need it. Submit a request for me on my Local Jewelers tab, and I would be happy to recommend someone in your area. Happy (Local) Shopping!

View this post on idazzle.com: How To Find a Reputable Local Jeweler You Can Trust