Colette Jewelry Draco Earrings from the Galaxia Collection, 18kt black gold with diamonds and moonstones, Retail $9980.

The Jewelry of Colette

Born into a French-Mexican family, Colette’s life has straddled both cultures and geographic locations. She manages to marry the more colorful, flamboyant imagery of Mexican and ancient native cultures with a more restrained French aesthetic. In Colette’s skillful hands, snakes are serpents from Eden, tempting rather than repelling us. Swords are bejeweled daggers whose charm doesn’t completely bely their danger. This is conversation-piece jewelry.

Colette Jewelry Excalibur Ring from the Azucar Collection, in 18kt black gold with white diamonds. Retail $4600.

Each design starts with a premise, an idea of inspiration. Then she works through the process of detailed drawings and wax models, until finally the finished piece of jewelry is set and polished to Colette’s exact specifications. Then she physically wears the piece, living with it for a while until she deems it is perfect, covet-able, and ready to weave into her collections.

Her collections are somewhat prolific, and cover a range of themes: flies, flowers, skulls, even the celestial is inspiration. I could spend at least a day browsing through everything. Made of gorgeous materials, every single piece receives the same amount of exacting scrutiny. Colette is especially skillful at incorporating the mechanics of the item into the design: the sword wraps effortlessly and becomes the band. Of course, the real stars here are the stones. With Colette, it always comes back to the stones…

Colette Jewelry Fly Pendant from the Bestioles Collection, 18kt black gold with black and white diamond pave and carved Labradorite, Retail $20,600.

The Interview with Colette

idazzle: It sounds as though your initial inspiration came from coaxing color and light from stones that hadn’t been seen before. Have you moved away from that or is that still an inspiration?
Colette: I have always been in love with color, especially the colors you find in nature like the blues, greens and turquoises of the ocean, land, animals and their intricacies, rainbow sunsets and flowers. You can find the most special color combinations. I love to play with different color palettes, tones and hues. I like to work with stones that have amazing color saturation and then combining them with neutral colors such as diamonds. I am so inspired by colors and what surrounds me – especially when I travel. My latest collection that is currently in the works is largely inspired by the color of the sea in Italy and the magnificent dragonflies that buzz around – their wings are just sensational.

Colette Jewelry Taipan Ring from the Eden Collection, 18kt black gold with diamonds and emeralds, Retail $8520.

Can’t wait to see those! What does your creative process look like? Do you begin with the stones, or with sketches?
Once I have in mind what I want to create I start with a simple sketch, then I move to the real sketch which means a full drawing in color with all the specifications for stone sizes and type of stone. Usually when I get the inspiration of a collection, I already know which stones I am going to work with. It is a simultaneous process. After the proper drawing is finished, then I move to the CAD design, and once everything is perfect, I print a wax and it goes to casting. After that you finally get to see exactly how the design is going to look which gets me really excited! Then, I proceed to setting and finally polishing. The piece is ready. After I make sure everything is made to perfection including the setting, the gold, finish and polish, I wear the piece for a little while. With photography being one of my hobbies, I like to take the pictures of my pieces myself, which I do in different positions and with varying backgrounds. If I want to put the piece in my jewelry box, then I know it is perfect and ready to show!

Colette Jewelry Green Camelot Ring from the Azucar Collection, 18kt black gold with white and black diamonds and emeralds, Retail $12,100.

You have a number of different collections, each with a central theme underlying. Do you have a favorite collection, something especially close to your heart?
The closest one to my heart is “feuille” because it involves so much of my personal life; it is the foundation of my business and thus my logo. The motif is a leaf that I found many years ago on Boulevard Saint Germain in Paris. I have always collected leaves and have a beautiful collection of leaves that I have found over the years. I love leaves because of their beauty and because they mark the seasons and that they fall from trees that represent life. Their structure also seems so elegant. And I want to immortalize leaves by making them into jewelry, setting them with different colored diamonds to represent each season of the year.

Colette Due Bracelet from the Feuille Collection, 18kt black gold with white and black diamond pave, Retail $12,150.

How does your heritage affect your designs?
I have lived between France and Mexico my whole life and I think that this cultural background absolutely has had an impact on my work. In Mexico, there is a great tradition of mysticism that comes from the ancient Azteca culture and a very vivid use of color that one can see in everyday life. My French sensibility I think has made me very in tune with elegance in design and simplicity of lines.

How do you decide when a piece is finished, complete?
I think that a piece is finished when I see that its design truly expresses the idea that I started with and after I have worn it and am confident that it is something that I would like to have for myself.

Colette Jewelry Dominica Ring from the Mar Collection, 18kt yellow gold seastar legs hold a faceted rose quartz, Retail $7500.

Do you have a current muse or obsession?
My current obsessions are insects and wings. These structures are so intricate and many times we look at them and do not really see them and to me they represent different sorts of mysteries.

Out of curiosity, what were the stones you worked with originally, that started it all?
The stones that I worked with originally are Peridot, Tanzanite, and Apatite.

Colette Jewelry single stud earring with attached cuff that wraps around the ear, 18kt black gold with white diamonds and moonstone, Retail $3900.

Thank you so much, Colette, for a glimpse into your magical world!

To see more of her collection, or to contact Colette and her staff about a design, you can visit them at www.colettejewelry.com. You can also see her designs at several stores in the USA and Mexico, including Fragments at 116 Prince Street, New York, New York, or call 212.334.9588.

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Colette Jewelry Interview

The jewelry of Fragments is plenty interesting, but the real story here is Janet. A serendipitous path led to success for this entrepreneur in fashion, from a background in art and design.

Rose Ring by Borgioni in 18kt Black Rhodium Gold with Rubies and Black Diamonds, Retail $7525

Starting Out

Janet’s first career was as a teacher. At heart, though, Janet was really an artist and eventually went back to school to become a pattern maker. This gave her a sense of true independence–a quality still very important to her–as she felt she could go anywhere in the world with that skill. After some success with her pattern design (Henri Bendel was the first store she sold to) she ran into some growing pains when trying to expand her business.

Miguel Ases Earrings of Swarovski Crystals, Miyuki, 18k Plated Beads, Retail $150

Starting Over

In 1984, Janet started over again, this time with Jimmy Moore, her then-business partner. To finance her new venture, she sold her home and moved into a small apartment. With a walk-up showroom space on Greene Street in SoHo, Janet and Jimmy launched Fragments with three designers: Gaetano Fazio, Steve Rosen, and Brett Lewis. (The provenance of these original designers live on: Gaetano’s lead designer was Miguel Ases, now a successful fashion jewelry designer in his own right). These artists were creating handcrafted jewelry that was glamorous, rock and roll, and “over the top,” Janet says. This was like nothing anyone had seen in the jewelry world up to this point. The legendary Joan Weinstein, owner of Ultimo in Chicago, walked up as they were unpacking the jewelry in the showroom. She became one of their first customers, and it illustrated to Janet that “It’s all about the product–it sells itself. It was really the beginning of Fashion Jewelry. It was whimsy and original, and each piece had it’s own soul. We were on to a new art form.”

Wendy Yue Cuff Bracelet in 18k White Gold with Carved Jade, Sapphires, and Colored Diamonds. Retail $35,380

The Fragments Showroom

The Fragments showroom grew from three designers into its present day operation, which now usually represents 25-30 designer jewelry lines at any given time. The showroom sells jewelry at the wholesale level to jewelers, but more importantly, it is a way for emerging designers to get the word out, and to get feedback on their brand and marketing. For jewelry retailers, stylists and fashion editors, Fragments is an efficient way to discover talent. The sheer number of artists represented allows for a one stop shop for Buyers to place orders, and take notes on merchandising. In a way, it is very representative of Janet herself: “You can see what I’ve got. I wanted to show an entire collection right up front, instead of only seeing a few pieces, and then pulling from the back.”

The Fragments Store

In 1994 or 1995, with the Fragments Showroom becoming a successful entity, Janet felt the need to learn more and challenge herself. She enrolled in the Owner President Management program at Harvard Business School, and learned a lot about business, finance, and negotiating. These skills helped her as she started her new adventure: a retail space that would sell jewelry to consumers. She opened a retail store in the front 750 square feet of her showroom space on Greene Street; wholesale buyers had to walk through the retail space on their way to the showroom in the back. The idea was to have a place that was an incubator and test market for new designers. For merchandising and visual display, they had complete freedom to play and figure out what worked. This in turn greatly influenced the designers represented in the wholesale showroom. The retail store is now on Prince Street, “the best street in SoHo,” Janet says. Fragments retail store has become a destination market for customers and retailers alike. All are welcome, and her staff is loyal and long term; her store manager has been with her for 16 years.

Nam Cho Pendant in 18k with Diamonds and Blue Moonstone, Retail $9575

Inspiration

I asked Janet where her inspiration and influence comes from. She said that the art world influences the kind of jewelry artists she represents. She and her husband have been contemporary art collectors for many years. A project they are involved in, Wynwood Walls, a highly-regarded outdoor street art museum open to the public in Miami, Florida, is very inspiring: “by the artists, and colors, and such freedom! My life is involved in this,” says Janet. She embraces change and innovation wholeheartedly.

Ashley Pittman Bracelet Set, Approximate Retail $495

Style and Substance

When looking at a new designer’s work, there are a couple of consistent things Janet and her staff are looking for. “I look for spirit,” says Janet. “Not strictly commercial–it has to communicate and speak to me. I respect the art of the person who designs and creates jewelry as an art form. Good jewelry connects to the customer.” She has an employee who says that she doesn’t need a tatoo, as her jewelry provides a new opportunity each day for personal expression. At heart, Fragments is hoping to connect people with their own intrinsic style.

Suzanne Kalan's 18kt White Gold Earrings with White Sapphire and White Topaz, Retail $7175

I asked Janet which designers or trends are really speaking to her. She stated that it’s really all about innovation: what’s new, what stands out. She mentioned new jewelry designer Susan Kalan is using white topaz in a truly unique way, in price points that are collectible. Deanna Hamro is designing with a mix of materials that feels very fresh. And Jordan Alexander, profiled recently here, is creating pearl jewelry that is modern and wearable.

Jordan Alexander Peacok Pearl Twist Bracelet with Diamonds and Sapphires, Retail $2890

Here’s to the next 27 years of Fragments curating and incubating talented jewelry designers! Janet has worked hard her whole life and feels lucky that her work has given her–plus countless others–such pleasure. Fragments has a magic about it, and customers have the chance to take that magic home with them. Her parting advice: “Love what you do, find your own signature.”

You can reach Janet and her staff at their website here, or call 866-966-4688 for more information about any of the jewelry featured here. Customers can visit the store at 116 Prince Street, New York, NY or call 212-334-9588. Retailers can reach the showroom at 212-226-8878.

Deanna Hamro Pendant in Oxidized Silver with Swarovski Crystals, Retail $950

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Icons Spotlight: An Interview with Janet Goldman of Fragments Jewelry

Erickson Beamon and Bauble Bar Fusion Collaboration

I’ve been a fan of Bauble Bar since learning about them in 2010. I love their concept, which is to go direct to the fashion jewelry designers that supply high-end stores like Saks Fifth Avenue and Berdorf Goodman, and offer very on-trend jewelry to women purchasing for themselves. By operating only online, and eliminating inefficiencies through their distribution model, the prices are fantastic. I would call Bauble Bar my secret weapon for amazing fashion pieces, except that they aren’t so secret anymore.

Erickson Beamon Versaille Dye Glam Necklace from Bauble Bar, Retail $250

The collection consists of 3 different palettes: vivid bright gems in unexpected combinations; refined pearls with gold; and–my favorite–clear crystals in darkened metal for smoky, edgy glamour.

Erickson Beamon Diamond Collection Earrings from Bauble Bar, Retail $65

Erickson Beamon designers Karen Erickson and Vicki Beamon have been designing together since 1983, and are considered the go to source for very high-end collectible fashion jewelry. Their designs are collected and coveted by fans from Lady Gaga to the First Lady. It’s not unusual for their beautifully crafted necklaces, earrings and bracelets to go for hundreds, sometimes thousands, of dollars.

Erickson Beamon Dirty Glam Necklace from Bauble Bar, Retail $165

It’s nice to see well-designed fashion jewelry at the caliber of Erickson Beamon available to consumers at totally accessible prices (the Dirty Glam crystal earrings are just $65!). The pieces are only available through December 31st, 2011, and are made to order once you purchase, with a ship date starting in early November. It’s first come, first shipped, so I recommend placing your order early. You can see the whole collection on the Bauble Bar site here.

Erickson Beamon Versaille Bonbon Bracelet from Bauble Bar, Retail $142

View this post on idazzle.com: Bauble Bar Teams Up with Erickson Beamon for Holiday-Perfect Jewelry

Jordan Alexander Necklace Containing 300 Year Old Yemen Prayer Beads, Moonstones, Pave Diamond Beads and Clasp

Jordan Alexander Jewelry Background

So who can make pearls go from tepid to trend? The designer responsible for Jordan Alexander’s aesthetic is Theresa Bruno. A native of Alabama, Theresa grew up surrounded by the tradition of jewelry in the south. The pearls and jewelry collections of her mother and grandmother definitely made an impression, with their fine workmanship and classic styles. But when Theresa began designing her own jewelry in 2010, she wanted something serious but with a twist: a way to wear materials that are recognizably fine, but in a fresh way that can go from office to grocery store to night out effortlessly.

Jordan Alexander Pave Diamond Double Loop Diamond Slice Earrings

The Jewelry of Jordan Alexander

In addition to a selection of core designs, Jordan Alexander releases new collections of jewelry each season. Looking over the collection for Fall 2011, I was struck by the variety of materials: Jasper, Tiger Eye, Chysolite, Pyrite, tea-dyed bone, wood, Moonstone, and antique Yemen prayer beads, to name just a few. The jewelry is a reset of combination expectations, with rough-textured black lava happily coexisting with luminous pearls or twinkling pave beads.

Jordan Alexander Peacock Baroque Pearl Necklace with Diamond Pave Links and Clasp

My favorites? I would layer the 42 inch Navy or Beige Pearl strands with the 28 inch versions with a tassle. Or the long Sandalwood or Bone beads with shorter leather macrames woven with creamy pearls and diamonds. I could have the mother of all arm parties with an ivory or beige pearl bracelet, layered with crocheted multi-strands with sparkling black spinels, and finished with macrame woven with a pave diamond disc. I genuinely covet almost any of her earring designs, but especially love the pave buttons paired with the antique Yemen prayer bead drops: drama, beauty and history all in one sophisticated package.

Jordan Alexander Peacock Bracelet Twist Bracelet with Diamond and Sapphire Beads

The Interview with Jordan Alexander Jewelry

idazzle.com: When did Jordan Alexander Jewelry officially launch, and what was the ultimate impetus to make the jump into fine jewelry design?
Teresa Bruno of Jordan Alexander: Jordan Alexander officially launched in August 2010. I had been designing my own pieces for about three years when I decided to start the company. I wanted a look that combined my grandmother’s classic sense of style with my own edgier sense. When I couldn’t find it, I decided to create my own. High-fashion individuals would repeatedly lift the pieces from around my neck and ask to purchase them, and eventually, my business partner and I laid the groundwork to take us to where we are today.

Where are your designs made, New York or Los Angeles? How has your history in Alabama influenced your designs?
I design when I am in both New York and L.A. I feed off of the amazing, creative individuals I work with, and am always pleasantly surprised by where I end up. Because a number of my pieces use such an unusual type of tying method, they are reproduced in LA. Being in Birmingham keeps me true to my southern roots and southern influence.

Do you feel that your background in classical music has impacted your designs?
I have always had a love and appreciation for beauty and artistry. In fact, I spent my childhood and early adult years training to be a classical musician. This training helped define me as a person and influenced my life’s creative journey as a musician, designer, arts educator and film producer.

Jordan Alexander White Agate and Baroque Pearl Necklace with Diamond Pave Links and Clasp

Can you tell us about your design process? For instance, how do you come up with such imaginative combinations of gems?
The actual design process may consist of working from sketches that are exact – working from drawings of designs that I envision – or, sometimes, it’s more fluid and evolves from seeing a specific material or certain finding I want to build on. I’m constantly trying to find creative uses for the materials I find. I look for elements to bring unexpected twists to my designs. I love combining traditional, classic elements like diamonds and other precious stones with rich, organic pieces like lava and moonstone. Perhaps my most recent example is how I’ve been working with diamond and pearl slices to create unique and more economical pieces.

What is the most interesting gem or material you have acquired so far? Have you been able to incorporate that into a design yet?
I certainly think the most interesting piece you’ll find in my designs is the 300-year-old Yemen prayer bead. These beads are pieces of antiquity that mothers prayed over for their children. Aside from being beautiful pieces, the history behind them makes them even more meaningful and valuable to use in my designs.

How does it feel to have the attention of people like WWD editors and the First Lady?! Did you have any sense when launching that your designs would resonate so quickly?
It’s an overwhelming honor, and I pinch myself from time to time to remind myself that this really happening. I put all of my creative energy into my work, and I see the amazing people I work with doing the same thing. To know that what we’re doing is impacting people on a level so much greater than ourselves is truly rewarding.

What is on the horizon for Jordan Alexander?
Right now, we’re expanding our presence across the country. As far as the actual line goes, we introduced our first set of enhancers and rings in Fall 2011. I’m looking forward to taking new concepts and expanding the collection to include more of those pieces.

Jordan Alexander Silver Ring with Quartz Slice and Diamonds

How and Where to Buy Jordan Alexander Jewelry

Many of the pieces are made in LA, but Theresa stays close to her roots by maintaining an office of the company in Birmingham, AL. You can contact them through the Jordan Alexander Facebook page. To see any of the items pictured here, or inquire about Jordan Alexander jewelry, you can find an extensive collection at Fragments New York City store in SoHo, or Fragments website. Contact them here or call 212.334.9588 to find out more. Jordan Alexander’s designs can also be found at other boutiques across the country, including Shari’s Place in Greenvale, NY and Marissa Collections in Naples, FL.

The designer of Jordan Alexander, Theresa Bruno at work

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Jordan Alexander Jewelry Interview

Dori Csengeri Zephyre Earrings

The Jewelry of Dori Csengeri

Each of Dori’s pieces seems to tell a story: the jewelry feels very personal, even intimate. The undulating swirls of silky cords are embroidered by hand in Dori’s studios, using age-old textile methods that are largely forgotten today. Small faceted beads and polished stones are nestled among the fabric, adding unexpected sparkle. The fabric and gemstones combine in interesting, painterly palettes.

Dori Csengeri Ephrah One-of-a-Kind Haute Couture Necklace, Assemblage of Embroidery and Vintage Jewelry

I am very glad that I was able to review her jewelry in person, as there are incredible details that are hard to capture in images online, like an intricately carved bead that one only notices when up close. Also, seeing the scale was helpful, as the jewelry is quite substantial, but is deceivingly lightweight and comfortable. Another detail: the reverse of each piece is lined in butter soft leather, which results in the jewelry being incredibly tactile, all softness and light.

Dori Csengeri Earrings, showing back of earrings lined in soft leather.

The Collections of Dori Csengeri

Dori Csengeri makes jewelry in a variety of styles, organized by collection. With names like Ganymede, Adesso, and MezzaNotte, each collection evokes a particular theme or aesthetic. Her Bridal collections are studies in texture, with a palette that complements an adventurous, aesthetic bride. Dori also does Haute Couture collections, in limited quantity, made exclusively for collectors who follow her work closely. In every collection, you can sense her textile background and her uncanny knack of combining it creatively with metals, beads and stones to create jewelry.

Dori Csengeri Portofino Necklace, $508 Retail

The Dori Csengeri Interview

idazzle.com: Your background is textile design, so how did you end up designing jewelry?
Dori Csengeri: During my studies of textile design, my dream was to be recognized as a designer who brings her own unique style, color palette and motifs to her creations. Over the years, I was bothered by the fact that I had no control over the way the end-user saw my textile designs or used them. While in Paris studying at the Academie de Port-Royal, I was experimenting with collages from textile materials. This is how the soutache cords landed on my desk. From there on, the road to jewelry was fairly short. I started with small color compositions in textiles, which evolved into beautiful lapel broaches. With time and experience, I developed a needlework technique, which is suitable to the creation of textile-based jewelry and realized that the jewelry path is the right path for me.

What inspires you the most: place, people, art, music, or something else?
Inspiration is something that is most evanescent and hard to explain. There are no rules and no winning formula, only that magical moment when the picture becomes clear. Throughout my life I’ve been collecting different materials from all over the world, ranging from local flea markets to shops in Paris, New York and Amsterdam. In every different place I find something special: an interesting bead, a striking new color, feathers, and countless small elements that spark my creativity. As I sit at my worktable my mind’s wheels begin to turn and things like memories, art, nature, scenery, travel, color, and the little details of life hypnotize my imagination. Each embroidered piece starts as a collection of single objects and by the time it’s finished it turns into a new and unique jewelry that carries my dreams and is a window so to speak to my personal world.

Dori Csengeri Paradiso Earrings, $337 Retail

Your designs are so complex, what does your design process look like?
The design process starts with collecting materials that appeal to me and are in sync with the fashion forecasts of colors, themes and moods. I use the textile cords and needle as my drawing board and so my “sketches” are experimental embroidered segments of different ideas and color combinations. After I make a wide assortment of sketches, the sorting process begins. I pick the most intriguing embroidery segments and I continue developing them, until I have finished color groups that each offers a variety of necklaces, earrings and bracelets.

The physical construction of the pieces is very tight and precise. How hard was it to make your ideas a reality in the finished jewelry piece?
I work long and hard on every style in order to ensure that my idea is thoroughly expressed. The colors, shapes, materials, and composition need to speak for me and only after I feel that’s been accomplished can my jewelry pieces go into production. After I finish embroidering the first jewelry piece and approve it, the piece is scanned in real-size. My amazing team of artisans have the “know how” of looking at the scanned images and hand-embroider perfect replicas.

Dori Csengeri La Divina Necklace and Earrings

Do your collections change dramatically from season to season?
Every season brings with it new themes, new materials and new possibilities that present a wide range of exploration and capabilities. What remains constant in my work is my personal language, my embroidery technique and my commitment to make the best jewelry pieces I can for my clients.

How long does it take to make a piece of jewelry, from the hand embroidering, to weaving in the stones, to finishing with findings?
It all depends on the size of the piece and the complexity of its design. I guess that it can take from a few hours to a few days.

Dori Csengeri Purple Haze Earrings

What is your dream for your company and designs?
I enjoy the process of “translating” my inner world into colorful creations. I love what I do, especially when I receive encouraging comments from my customers about the happiness and joy that my jewelry brings them. What more can I ask for…?.

What more, indeed? It was amazing to get inside an artist’s head a little, to see how Dori imagines and then creates truly unique pieces of wearable sculpture. Her website is a journey into a curated collection of color–I highly recommend exploring DoriCsengeri.com. You can purchase her jewelry directly from the website, or visit one of the authorized retailers, galleries or museums who represent her work.

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Dori Csengeri Interview

I just received a few images of her new collections, and they were so gorgeous, I had to share. There is a cohesive quality in the metal colors and textures, yet each piece is totally distinctive. I find the silhouettes incredibly on-trend and modern, yet there is a feeling of authentic ethnicity in the details.

Blackened Silver and 18K Gold Meus Designs Pave Colored Diamond Ring (Center Dia 6.49 cts, Other Dia Wt. 1.89 cts), $11,200 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Diamond & Milky Moonstone Oval Bezel Ring (Dia Wt. 2.25 cts), $5,390 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Champagne Diamond Tear Drop Earrings with Black Diamonds (Black Dia Wt: 5.66 cts, Champ Dia Wt. 0.80 cts), $7,600 Retail

Blackened Silver and 18K Gold Meus Designs Boulder Opal Ring with Diamonds (Dia Wt. .50 cts), $6,200 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Champagne Diamond & Emerald Frame Chandelier Earrings (Dia Wt: 1.10 cts, Emerald Wt: 2.3 cts), $4,200 Retail

I covet any of these for my personal collection, but I would (figuratively) kill for the Boulder Opal ring and the Emerald and Diamond Silhouette Earrings. I look forward to seeing more from this talented designer!

View this post on idazzle.com: New Meus Designs

Flash sale sites offer designer merchandise to members for a limited time at a steep discount. Most sites started as ways to clean out designer overruns and out-of-season items, but have now morphed into an efficient moving system for all kinds of merchandise. The sites that are best known, and also have regular jewelry offerings, are Gilt Groupe, Beyond the Rack, Hautelook, Ideeli, Modnique, Rue La La, My Habit, and the jewelry-specific site Ajaline. (Note: if you need an invitation to check out these sites and their offerings, email me here and I can send you an invite or code). Most sales run for a specific amount of time, usually a few days, and then it’s over. Many items sell out; those that don’t sell for the main event might show up later in a special blow-out sale.

It’s a great concept, and one that obviously works well, or we wouldn’t see so many companies in this space. When you know the brand, know your size, and the item is returnable (return policies vary from site to site), it’s a fantastic way to shop. For buying fine jewelry, however, there are some caveats.

Product Representation: Do You Have All the Facts?

On most flash sale sites, they have a sale for a specific designer, with a detail page for each item. They often photograph the jewelry from a couple of different views, include a description, and show retail versus sale price. Some sites have a lot of detailed information, depending on the sale. I have seen some sites, however, that do not have carat weight breakdowns, quality information for the gemstones listed, gold weights, etc. If it’s a non-branded item, it is hard to adequately compare price on something without these details. Even if the basic facts are there, it still doesn’t tell you how the piece is finished, or how it feels when it’s on.

Robert Wander Multicolor Tourmaline Pendant, recently featured on Gilt Groupe for $3590, 50% off retail.

Scale: How Will It Fit?

Some of the flash sale sites, like Gilt Groupe, try to show scale with the item superimposed against a generic form of a face or neck. However, it’s hard to get a sense of how that looks against skin, or on your body specifically. It would be ideal if someone photographed the item on a model, but I think only My Habit does that currently. Scale is always a challenge while ordering online, and with jewelry it’s particularly tricky. Is the ring a comfortable size 6, or will it be a tight fit due to the construction? How will you have it sized (no flash selling site offers sizing at this time)? Will the necklace hit your collarbone at the precise spot you are hoping? It’s hard to spend $2000+ on that pair of South Sea pearl and diamond earrings with those questions unanswered.

Turquoise, Sapphire and Diamond Ring by Vendoro, recently featured on Gilt Groupe for $4740, 50% off retail.

Returns? What Returns?

Of course, the above issues of details and scale are totally surmountable with a great return policy. But here’s the thing: many flash sale sites don’t allow returns on jewelry, which is often lumped into the accessory category. Hautelook, recently purchased by Nordstrom, doesn’t offer any returns on jewelry, period. A few, like Ideeli, offer store credit if you return the new, unworn item within 14 days. My Habit, which is Amazon.com’s recent entry into the flash sale world, will pay for your return shipping for unworn items returned within 21 days, and the refund is in the form of an Amazon Gift Card. Ajaline, a flash site created especially for the jewelry category, allows site credits or refunds through a specific process, where you must contact them within 2 business days of receiving the item to get a Return Authorization. On May 16th, Gilt Groupe announced here that they would now accept returns on jewelry, and offer full refunds if new merchandise is returned within 21 days. As one of the first and most respected flash sites, they are considered the industry leader, and we may see more sites follow their lead.

Bottom Line

Jewelry is an expensive, personal, and high-touch purchase that usually requires some research.

You should buy it…
when you see a trusted brand like Lagos, Mikimoto, Amrita Singh, BoChic, Robert Lee Morris, Gurhan, Sethi Couture, Roberto Coin, David Yurman, John Hardy, Judith Ripka, Temple St. Clair, Alexis Bittar, Jamie Joseph, or any watch brand (this is by no means an exhaustive list, just brands I have seen on the big sites). This is especially true if the site is very customer friendly in their policies, and you can return the item if there is a problem with quality, or fit. You will feel great about purchasing that item at an amazing price–and there are some truly great deals out there.

You should think twice and read the fine print…
if it’s a site that doesn’t accept jewelry returns,
if it’s a non-branded item that has scant information,
if you’re not totally sure about the size or if it can be sized,
if the quality/value ratio is hard to figure out.
If you really don’t feel comfortable enough to purchase, you can hold off. Chances are, the same designer will be featured again at a later time or on a different site. You could also try shopping locally: you might find that if your local jeweler carries the same brand, they’d offer you a nice price, or at least more education and the ability to return or size the item.

How about you? Anyone have a story, positive or negative, about buying jewelry from a flash sale site?

Amethyst Pendant in 18kt White Gold by Very PC, offered on Ajaline for $415, more than 50% off retail.

View this post on idazzle.com: How to Buy Jewelry from Flash Sale Sites Like Gilt Groupe, Hautelook, Ideeli, Rue La La, Ajaline and More…

Gerard Yosca Wood Beaded Drop Necklace in Turquoise from the Green Label Diffusion Line, $50 Retail

Gerard Yosca Triple Drop Crystal Earrings, $175 Retail

The Jewelry of Gerard Yosca

Gerard Yosca’s designs successfully meld an astonishing array of materials into a cohesive design theme each season: enamels, candy-colored faceted beads, wood, exotic stones, vintage charms and much more all come together to create wearable sculptures. All of his designs are made with care in New York City, a relative rarity in fashion jewelry these days. His design room is a playground of amazing raw materials all laid out in experimental combinations to get the look of each piece just right. (For a wonderful glimpse into Gerard’s studio and persona, check out this Unracked video interview of Gerard, sponsored by Gilt Groupe). This individual focus and intense concern for the design process shows throughout the whole collection.

Gerard Yosca Cherry Red Bangle Bracelet Set, $112 Retail

Did I mention that his designs are also exceptionally well-priced? It is not easy to find beautifully designed jewelry that is made well, domestically no less, from $75 to $600 retail. Gerard’s pieces are going to represent investments of the BEST workmanship available at their respective price points.

Gerard Yosca 75-Inch Pearl and Rhinestone Necklace from the Green Label Diffusion Line, $98 Retail

The Gerard Yosca Interview

idazzle: Your background in fashion design really shows in your designs. How did you originally discover jewelry design and what inspired you to make the switch?
Gerard Yosca: I actually have a graphic design and advertising background but loved fashion so much that I decided to switch industries. When reality struck, it was much easier to figure out how to make jewelry than how to drape and sew a garment.

Gerard Yosca Gold Wire Crystal Ring, $78 Retail

You design an array of jewelry categories: brooches, fabulous statement necklaces, dramatic cuffs. Is there a particular kind of jewelry that lets you be really free with your design process?
Brooches- they’re like little sculptures.

Gerard Yosca Rhinestone and Brass Disc Earring, $145 Retail

How do you arrive at your “theme” or direction each season?
It usually stems from what I’m looking for in my personal life. The change from complicated to homier food. The sudden desire for a bright colored sweater. These changes indicate a shift to what’s next. I’ve learned how valuable it is to take cues from what’s going on in my world.

Gerard Yosca Wood Beaded Necklace in Pink, $50 Retail

How would you describe the signature, underlying essence that is Gerard Yosca jewelry year after year, even as trends cycle through?
Every piece has a handcrafted look. You can really see this it is not mass-produced. There is also a strong point of view and personality to each collection. Color is another signature. I love some pretty nutty color combinations.

Classic Gerard Yosca Jewelry from Previous Collections, from Archive Photos

You have designed runway jewelry for some amazing fashion designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren, and Nanette Lepore. Are you currently working on any interesting collaborations with fashion designers? If you can’t tell us about your current projects, what’s a recent collaboration that was really memorable?
When I collaborate with another designer I really love to put my heart and soul into the design process. Right now I’m putting all my focus into my signature collection, which doesn’t leave much time for anything else.

Gerard Yosca Turquoise Sunburst Chandelier Earrings, $145 Retail

You sell primarily through small specialty retailers. What are the benefits for collectors to buy through these retailers?
The retailers know what their customers own and what they might like. Often our buyers will mention customers by name, and tell me which of my pieces they’ve purchased. I love that relationship.

Gerard Yosca Wood and Crystal Drop Earring, $135 Retail

Can you tell us about your book?
My book is a project I have not yet found the time to start. But it will show 27 years of jewelry made by someone who knew nothing when he started and who thinks he may be finally getting the hang of it. I hope it might inspire someone to take a chance on a foolhardy career. If you’re passionate and love what you’re doing, you can make a life out of it.

Beautifully said! I look forward to hearing more about the book, and hope that your words inspire some fledgling designer to take the plunge! Thank you so much for sharing your experience!

You can find Gerard’s jewelry in a variety of local boutiques around the country, email his studio here to get more information. You can also find his designs online at retailer Charm&Chain. Also, it’s only appropriate that his amazing, downtown styles frequently appear–and steal the scene–on Gossip Girl! I hope that you have a chance to see his designs in person, and maybe I’ll see a few gorgeous necklaces and bracelets on friends this season!

The Designer Himself, Gerard Yosca

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Gerard Yosca Interview

Erica Courtney Coco Ring with 6.41 carat Oval Zultanite and 1.58 ct TW Diamonds in 18k Gold

Zultanite

Zultanite the “Sultan of Gems” is a remarkable—and recent—gem discovery. It is found in only ONE deposit in the remote and jaw-droppingly beautiful Anatolia Mountains of Turkey. Zultanite has a color-change phenomenon–the most rare of gem effects–with colors for one gem ranging from sage green and canary yellow, to vivid kiwi green, raspberry pink, with warm ginger and cognac. The colors change as the light source changes. The gem is never enhanced, which is remarkable if you understand that most colored gemstones in the market are enhanced or treated in some way to improve their color or durability.

I had a chance to view several Zultanites in person (I returned the gems, I did not receive jewelry or compensation in exchange for this review). This gem is quite unlike any I have seen before. In very bright sunlight, the Zultanites I saw sparkled with bright, crisp facets in a sage green with sunny yellow highlights. I then took it into incandescent light indoors, and the gem turned deeper, richer: caramel-y cognac with khaki green flashes. Once the sun went down, I checked the colors again in incandescent light, and now they were pale raspberry, with some apricot thrown in. I tried viewing them in candlelight, and though it was hard to get enough light to really appreciate the color, the raspberry pink was really intensified. Amazing that one stone can have so many personalities!

Rhonda Faber Green Olympia Chandelier Earrings 44.73 ct TW Zultanites and 4.02 ct TW Diamonds in 18k White Gold

Responsible Mining

It is mined responsibly, both in its impact on the environment, and its positive impact on the lives on the mine workers. The mining process does not use chemicals for extraction, and trucks are used to transport kitchen and bathroom waste water out of the site. Miners are paid above-average wages and are fully insured, and supplies are purchased from surrounding villages whenever possible. Additionally, the mine contributes to local charities and food banks, and employs local residents when possible, to create symbiotic relationships with the surrounding people and environment.

Rhonda Faber Green Legacy Ring with 13.08 ct Zultanite and 0.10 ct TW Diamonds in 18k Gold, Retail $21,720

Amazing Zultanite Designer Jewelry

It is no wonder then that Zultanite has captured the imagination of some major jewelry designers who have created one-of-a-kind pieces around these one-of-a-kind gems. Designers such as Erica Courtney, Rhonda Faber Green, Daniel Gibbings, Christian Tse, Sevan and Evelyn H to name a few.

Rhonda Faber Green Imperial Ring with 2.66 ct Zultanite and 0.30 ct TW Diamonds Set in 18k Gold

The Interviews

I had the opportunity to ask a few of these designers about their experiences working with Zultanite.

idazzle: What was your first thought when you saw the gem in person?
Erica Courtney: When I saw the gem for the first time, I gasped and couldn’t help but to think “WOW.” I didn’t expect what I was going to see.

Daniel Gibbings: Wow, what is this!!! I have never seen any stone like this before.

Rhonda Faber Green: I was intrigued by the color change in the stone. I am constantly amazed by “Mother Nature’s” ability to surprise us with yet another beautiful gemstone.

evelyn H. Jewelry: My first impression when I saw Zultanite was wow! What a refreshing new color stone! Zultanite is very unique and different. The colors from lime green to a strawberry orange comes out in different lighting environments and it was interesting to see the many tones as well as blends occurring when the stone was placed in different lighting environments.

Daniel Gibbings Ring with Catseye Zultanite and Pink Rubies in Hand-hammered and Carved 20k Gold

idazzle: Did you immediately have an idea about how to design around it? Or did it take some time and discovery to create just the right foil for the Zultanite?
Erica Courtney: It took me a little bit of time to pick what accent stones to use with Zultanite because this gemstone is so unique. I was on an extensive search to find the exact shade of pink sapphire that would complement the various shades that Zultanite exposes. Currently, I’m looking for the perfect shade of Demantoids to design with Zultanite.

Daniel Gibbings: I had a vision instantly, because of its color-changing attribute, but it took some time to perfect the vision I had into actual pieces.

Rhonda Faber Green: Many ideas immediately came to mind on how to use this versatile stone. One of the first rings that I designed was an ancient temple. I used a beautiful Zultanite gem as the roof. I knew it would enhance the beauty of the stone; it drew light from all angles. I was amazed to later learn that there is an ancient ruin near the mine in Turkey where Zultanite was discovered.

evelyn H. Jewelry: Zultanite has such great color change properties that makes it appealing to both sexes; however, I immediately knew that I wanted to do something more masculine. A lot of times men feel there are not as much color stone options found in men’s jewelry, and I thought it would be a lot of fun and something different to do. I knew I wanted something structural but it did take a few weeks to solidify the design.

Rhonda Faber Green Olympia Swirl Pendant with 5.15 carat Zultanite and 1.77 ct TW Diamonds in 18k White Gold

idazzle: Were there any challenges working with this gem, in terms of durability or characteristics that are unique to it versus other gems you work with?
evelyn H. Jewelry: Zultanite is an interesting stone to work with. We were given the guidelines beforehand on how to set it because of it’s cleavage and other structural properties, however we created a design that wouldn’t utilize much force in the setting process. We discovered that as long as everybody working on the piece is aware of the sensitiveness in regards to the stone, it was not difficult to work with. Let’s just say it’s a tourmaline, tanzanite, and emerald rolled into one, however if you understand these stones and are comfortable working with them, you won’t have a problem with Zultanite.

Erica Courtney Madeline Ring with 5.32ct Zultanite and Diamonds in 18k Gold, Retail $10,800

idazzle: Can you describe the gem for people who can’t see it directly and capture its essence?
Rhonda Faber Green: The instant beauty of Zultanite is revealed under different kinds of lighting where the variety of colors really show up. Other color-change gemstones I’ve seen have just two basic colors. With Zultanite, I’ve seen an array of colors – canary yellow, ginger, green, champagne, raspberry pink, light brown and sage green. This variety of colors compliments both yellow and white gold and even platinum designs. I love that the saturation of color in each piece of Zultanite varies from stone to stone. This allows each Zultanite piece to have its unique personality.

evelyn H. Jewelry: Imagine a tranquil green meadow right when the sun is setting. You have the beautiful yellowy green as the last rays of the sun touches the meadow, and then you have the reds, oranges, and tans as the sun sinks over the hill and reflects in the sky. That’s what I see when I look at the stone. It really is mesmerizing.

Daniel Gibbings Statement Earrings with Zultanite and Rubies in 18k Gold

A Trip to Turkey

Erica Courtney had the opportunity to travel to Turkey to visit the Zultanite mine. I asked her a couple of questions about her experience there.

idazzle: How did going to Turkey and visiting the source for the gem, with all its culture and history, influence your ultimate designs?
Erica Courtney: Turkey is a very romantic place. You can’t help but fall in love with Zultanite completely. This best explains my love for Turkey and Zultanite…..”Before I experienced Turkey, it was lust, but after Turkey, it was love.” After meeting the staff and owner at the mine, I was able to see how well they treated the land, their employees and gemstones—you can’t help but see how precious the gems and people are and it’s hard not to fall in love with everything and everyone involved.

idazzle: What made the biggest impact on you from your visit to the mine: the people involved, the effort it takes to extract even one stone, the rarity of this gem in particular? What stands out for you?
Erica Courtney: The biggest impact for me was the attitude of the staff members at the mine. They were all so happy and friendly. I felt like they were a huge family and they were welcoming me in as a new member. I could tell that everyone who worked at the mine were generally concerned with each other and the environment. They were really passionate about their work and the gems.

Dancing with the Star's Carrie Ann Inaba Wearing Rhonda Faber Green's Olympia Zultanite Earrings

Look for more press and interest in this gem as its beauty, rarity, and other intangible qualities become more well known. For instance, just this week Carrie Ann Inaba was spotted wearing amazing Rhonda Faber Green Zultanite earrings on Dancing with the Stars! Ask your local jeweler to see a Zultanite, and visit the websites of the designers seen here for more information. As always, drop me a line here and let me know if you need a referral to a designer or retailer who has access to this remarkable gem.

Erica Courtney Raindrop Pendant with Zultanite and Diamonds in Platinum

View this post on idazzle.com: Zultanite: New Gem Discovered by Amazing Jewelry Designers

So here are a few pieces from some very worthy jewelry designer friends of mine who are donating 100% of their proceeds from these lovely pieces to Japanese charities that can serve the people most affected by this disaster.

Shamila Jiwa Jewels for Japan Necklace, $45 Retail

Jewels for Japan by Shamila Jiwa

These are amazing vintage (circa 1960) carved lucite bead necklaces offered by talented jewelry designer Shamila Jiwa. She is donating all proceeds from the sale of these necklaces to the Japanese Red Cross. Each bead has its own character, and its own accent stones at the clasp of the 16 inch gold filled chain, including a tiny red bead to signify Japan. The handmade clasp alone is worth the purchase! Extremely light weight, and luxuriously tactile, the centerpiece beads measure about 1 inch in width. How to choose: the ivory and gold with the apricot pearl accents, or the grey and gold with the Labradorites–signifying new beginnings–at the clasp? Buy either or both: they sell for just $45 each, and remember every cent goes towards relief! Shamila can also make a donation for a portion of the sale of anything else in her collection, if you prefer something else on her website (her Labradorite jewelry is AMAZING!).

Shamila Jiwa Jewels for Japan Ivory and Gold Vintage Lucite Bead Necklace with Champagne Pearl and Red Seed Accents, $45 Retail

Shamila Jiwa Jewels for Japan Vintage Grey and Gold Lucite Bead Necklace with Labradorite and Red Seed Accents, $45 Retail

Shamila Jiwa Jewels for Japan Necklace Clasp Detail, Champagne Pearls, 22k Vermeil Clasp

The Jane Taylor Rella Pendant

Award-winning jewelry designer Jane Taylor let me know about this pendant in Sterling Silver on a black waxed cotton cord. The pendant, named Rella–the Singhalese word for wave–was originally created to help the victims of the 2004 tsunami in Sri Lanka. Sales from the original pendant helped to build an orphanage there, and 100% of sales from this pendant will go directly to the Japanese Red Cross. Lovely to look at and lovely in purpose, this is what jewelry is all about. Click here to purchase it for $43.

Jane Taylor Rella Pendant in Sterling Silver on Black Cotton Cord, $43 Retail

Joan Hornig Wave of Hope Pendant

Jewelry philanthropist Joan Hornig makes a difference every day with her jewelry collections that benefit a variety of charities, so it is no surprise that she has a special pendant with 100% of proceeds benefiting the charity of your choice, aiding those affected. The Wave of Hope pendant is crafted of Sterling Silver on a Sterling beaded chain, and sells for $60.80, which reflects the geography of the quake (6 miles inland, 80 miles off the coast of Japan). Buy one through Joan Hornig’s website here.

Joan Hornig Wave of Hope Necklace in Sterling Silver, $60.80 Retail

If you know of other jewelry that has 100% of proceeds directly benefiting a charity that can help on the ground in Japan, please comment and let me know! I can publish more in the coming days, they will continue to need help long after the media and short term attention has faded.

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewels for Japan: How Jewelry Designers Are Making a Difference