Inspections and maintenance:

First of all, she had broken 2 of the 4 prongs holding the center stone, which is why the diamond fell out. They were white gold, and were less than 3 years old. While this sounds suspicious–most people think that jewelry is impervious and should last forever–it’s not unheard of. The important take away here is that you should have your ring checked at least once a year by a good jeweler. This will catch maintenance issues while they are hopefully just a prong re-tip instead of losing a diamond due to prong failure.

4 versus more prongs?

The jeweler recommended, if the customer really wanted security, to go with 6 prongs. But this would have totally changed the look of the ring. A 6-prong head is quite secure–it would take a failure of 3 or more prongs to lose a stone–but it is a little more “cluttered” looking than a 4-prong head. Ultimately, she didn’t want to change the look of her ring that dramatically, so she went with 4 prongs and the caveat that she will have them inspected by a jeweler once a year. If you are choosing a new ring, and the design works with 6 prongs, then I recommend that. But with an existing ring, I think 4 can hold it quite well, provided they are the appropriate size and you check them at least once per year.

Solitaire Setting with 4-Prong Head

Platinum versus White Gold?

For this size of head for this mounting (a .65 carat round diamond), the bench jeweler recommended white gold, saying that platinum really wouldn’t make a significant difference in strength, regardless of the price difference. Most people have heard that platinum jewelry is “stronger” than gold or white gold jewelry. This is only partly true. Platinum is a DENSER metal than gold, which means that it doesn’t physically wear and abrade away as much as gold, and has a higher tensile strength that allows it to hold its shape better than gold. But, it’s surface strength is actually softer than gold and will show scratches and “patina” faster than gold. The platinum prongs were going to be double the price of white gold (about $200 for a completely new 4-prong head and the re-set charge for the diamond, versus $90 for white gold). It really wasn’t a price issue for this customer, she would have gladly paid for the difference, but the jeweler thought the white gold would provide just as much protection.

Solitaire Setting with 6-Prong Head in Platinum

The final cost, and how prices vary jeweler-by-jeweler:

The cost for a new 4-prong white gold head, the labor to re-set the diamond, re-rhodium plate the white gold of her setting, and clean and polish the whole ring was $90. This is a very fair price for this work. The interesting thing is that she had gotten a MUCH higher estimate earlier that week from a reputable jewelry store known for their custom and repair work: $210 for the exact same 4 white gold prongs discussed above, and $400 for a 4-prong platinum head. Why the big fat difference? Just profit for the jeweler, pure and simple. It shows the different approaches jewelers may have towards repairs: some do it as a service to get and keep customers happy, while some jewelers treat repairs as a profit center that adds to the bottom line. Some jewelers may be very resistant to setting a diamond they did not sell and refuse outright, or charge an exorbitant fee to set the stone. I feel that this is very short-sighted on the jeweler’s part–this is an opportunity to establish a relationship with a new customer!

This is why it may be important to get a couple of estimates on a larger jewelry repair. If you use someone you trust and you know they will take care of you, that’s great! If you don’t have that relationship with a jeweler, check out my jewelry repair tutorial to help you locate a reputable jeweler, then get a couple of estimates.

View this post on idazzle.com: Mounting a Diamond? What You Should Pay.

Here’s what you should know:

1. Choose a reputable jeweler for the repair.  Ask around for a glowing recommendation from friends, family, and people you trust.  If you really don’t know a local jeweler, check out the American Gem Society websitefor a referral.  The AGS is a jewelry non-profit trade organization that was founded to promote high ethical standards among jewelers, and member jewelers have to subscribe to rigorous standards and be tested each year on their knowledge and service.  There are AGS Certified Jewelers in most markets in the US.
2. Insist that they use a Take-In Form, and get your own copy/receipt.  The actual form will vary from jeweler to jeweler, but all should have the same basic information: your contact info; a description of the item; a precise description of the work to be done; an estimate for the cost of the repair; and A REPLACEMENT VALUE FOR THE JEWELRY ITEM that you both agree on.  This information protects all parties.  
3. Get a good faith estimate on the repair work.  Writing “Fix” on the repair envelope does not count as a good repair description.  If your diamond fell out and you need your ring sized, then the description of the work should read something like “reset enclosed clear stone, re-tip 3 prongs, and size up to a size 6+”.  You should get some sort of estimate, even if it’s a ballpark figure, in writing on your receipt.  Or if it’s very elaborate, you can ask that they call you with an exact figure before they proceed with the work.  Most jewelers will do a free estimate, so if you decide not to go ahead, there should be no charge to you (there are exceptions to that, especially if they have to ship it somewhere to get the estimate). 
4. Get a complete description of your jewelry on the Take-In Form.  Don’t be offended if the jeweler uses terms like “1 green square cut center stone with 6 clear accent stones in yellow colored mounting stamped 18k”.  You may know that this is your Aunt Harriet’s heirloom Colombian Emerald ring, but the jeweler doesn’t probably have the time or lab equipment necessary at take-in to determine the exact mineral content of the gems you are leaving.  Experienced professional jewelers usually use general color terms to describe it (if they describe it as an Emerald, and it turns out to be glass, they don’t want to be liable for replacing the essentially worthless glass with a $10,000 emerald).  But the color, size, shape and number of gems should be noted along with metal stamps, engravings, and any other distinguishing marks.
5. Have the jeweler show you specific characteristics of your jewelry so that you can identify it when you get it back.  The jeweler can map out your diamond’s inclusions (or lack of) so that you can both check them when you get it back.  They can show you your sapphire next to one in their showcase to accurately describe the color.  The point is for you to BOTH scrutinize your jewelry so that you know what to look for when you get it back. 
6. Agree on a replacement value.  This is part of the take-in form and a good jeweler will want that filled in.  It limits their liability, too, in case there would be a loss.  Take in an appraisal if you have one, or a receipt.  Even if the value is out of date, it’s a good starting point for the discussion.  If you really have no idea, then they can show you items they have in stock most similar to your jewelry to figure out a value.  Make sure you agree and sign off on it.
7. Trust your gut.  Make sure you feel confortable with the store and salesperson before you walk out of the store.  If something doesn’t feel right, or the jeweler doesn’t follow the above points, take your jewelry and walk away.

I hope this information is useful and helps to put your mind at ease when you leave your precious jewelry for repair!

Comment if you have any other suggestions or horror stories–we can all learn from them!

Example of Jewelry Repair Take In Form

View this post on idazzle.com: What’s Trust Got to Do With It? A Jewelry Repair Tutorial