*Just in time for Valentine’s Day, Aroc Urtu has arranged for an amazing 20% discount on any orders from their site now through March 1st, 2012, using code vday2012.*

Aroc Urtu Ruby Rings

The Jewelry of Aroc Urtu

The jewelry of Aroc Urtu sits close to the body, warms to the touch, and patinas with wear and time. In short, this is jewelry that feels as good as it looks. It also has a conscience: all of their metals are recycled, diamonds and gemstones are from non-conflict sources, and all pieces are manufactured in New York City versus overseas.

Aroc Urtu has a few different collections, each with their own unique feel and energy. Their Beach Stone jewelry collection is perhaps most evocative of their signature style. Beach stones in soothing colors, polished naturally smooth by countless years in the water and sand, were washed up on shore to be discovered by the designers personally. This, and the contrast of the sharply faceted precious stones set seamlessly into them, define their style perfectly. Recycled gold and silver add a touch of responsible shine to the designs.

Flora and Fauna riff on other themes from nature: twigs and branches, feathers, cute little bunnies, serpentine snakes. Everything is textural, almost as if it’s been cast from the real thing (though in the case of the rabbit, not!). Mezcla, intriguingly named, consists of interesting outlines and cuts of gemstones, not perfectly symmetrical, set softly into sterling silver and 14kt gold.

Aroc Urtu White Beach Stone Earrings with Pink Sapphires in Sterling Silver, Retail $232.

Their most recent design foray delves into the engagement ring category. Aptly named “I DO“, it’s a collection for those looking for something other than a traditional prong-set round brilliant diamond. Softly hued natural diamond slices or rose cuts are bezel set into silver, rose and yellow gold settings. Simple pave eternity bands pair with the organic shapes beautifully, and even sparkle through the diamond slices. Also in the collection are necklaces, bracelets and earrings for wearing or presenting for the big wedding day, all with a very natural aesthetic.

Stack of Aroc Urtu I DO rings with natural color slice and rose cut diamonds in rose, yellow and white gold that enhance their beauty.

The Aroc Urtu Interview

idazzle: What was the inspiration and impetus of your new “I Do” collection?
Aroc Urtu: There aren’t many jewelers in the market right now catering to brides who are looking for earthier more organic pieces on their big day. We’re trying to fill that void with Aroc Urtu I DO, which focuses on unique, one of a kind gems like diamond slices, rough diamonds and rosecuts set in anything from engagement rings and wedding bands to bridesmaids gifts and symbolic jewels.

Aroc Urtu Rose Cut Black Diamond stud earrings set in Sterling Silver, Retail $468.

Aroc Urtu Emerald Slice Necklace in 14kt gold on an adjustable natural leather cord, Retail $1325.

Wow, you do that yourself!!? It’s even more impressive than I thought! What was the original inspiration of setting the faceted stones into the smooth beach stones?
We’ve both been collectors of stones and shells for years. To us, the untreated beach stones we’ve been finding on beaches around the world are equally as beautiful as fine gemstones that are cut and polished by stonecutters. It seemed only natural to combine the two to achieve that perfect balance of sparkly and earthy.

Aroc Urtu Diamond Dotted Branch Earrings in oxidized Sterling Silver, Retail $500.

Aroc Urtu Square Rough Cut Diamond set into yellow gold, shown with eternity band.

Your pieces sit so low and comfortable to the body. Do you think that jewelry design is moving towards ergonomic versus traditional prongs?
Lauren: Personally we prefer a ring that has the stones sitting as low to the finger as possible. Some stones are cut deep (height from the bottom, or culet, of the stone to the top, or table). Sapphires, for example, often require a deep bottom to maximize color intensity. In these instances the stone dictates how low it can be. But often times stones, particularly diamonds, are set way up high as a way to basically show them off. Not our taste. Even with faceted gemstones we keep them as low as possible, whether it is bezel or prong set, for a more understated look. One of the things we love so much about slices is that they have a flat bottom and can sit right on the finger.

A signature of many of your pieces are the beach stones, many of which you source yourselves on travels. With all the press recently, any danger that you will run out of stones?
Sarah: It’s funny because there was a time that we were definitely worried about that. Luckily, there’s no shortage of beach stones on the beach in front of our family home in Bridgehampton. Sometimes we send the boys out during high tide with shovels to scoop bunches of them up into buckets. We’re also lucky enough to have great friends who are kind enough to bring back stones from their travels around the world. It’s the best way to have variety!

Aroc Urtu Beach Stone necklace with champagne diamond slice in rose gold bezel and chain, Retail $1200.

You are committed to responsible manufacturing: recycled metals, zero environmental impact with your beach stones, even your packaging is hemp! Has this been more difficult than traditional manufacturing?
Lauren: When we started out two years ago vendors would look at us like we were speaking martian when we’d ask if they used recycled metals. Now, while still the exception, it is much easier to find jewelers, casters, etc. who are working from the perspective of environmental responsibility. Awareness of conflict diamonds and rubies from Burma that were supporting the oppressive government has increased tremendously as has our own government’s vigilance over the importation of these “dirty stones”. And while, yes, it is easier to work in ways that harm the Earth less, being aware of our roles as caretakers of this miraculous planet we live on requires constant effort. While Sarah and I see many of our fellow designers moving production overseas to keep expenses down, we have chosen to keep everything here in NYC where we can be more vigilant. We also believe in and support the talent of our local jewelers who are watching jobs go overseas at an ever increasing rate.

How would someone go about custom designing a piece of Aroc Urtu jewelry?
We try to accommodate all custom requests as long as they’re in line with the vibe of the brand. We’ll always stay true to using only Kimberly certified diamonds, non-Burmese rubies, and recycled metals. Email us at sarah@arocurtu.com and Lauren@arocurtu.com if you have an inquiry and we’ll be happy to discuss any custom requests you may have!

Aroc Urtu Eternity Bands, featuring hand-cut micro-pave details in rose, yellow and white gold, Retail $1800 each band.

What’s the most interesting custom design request that you have received?
One of our favorite custom orders was for a client who wanted some fabulous earrings to wear to her sister’s wedding. They had to be earthy to go with her personal style, yet elegant enough to make a statement at the over-the-top black tie event. We created a pair of chandelier earrings that had approximately 20 carats of autumn colored sliced diamonds and almost two carats of rose cut white diamonds. Needless to say, they were a big hit.

They sound fabulous! Where can readers find your designs?
For one, on our website www.arocurtu.com. We’re also carried in select specialty boutiques like Thistle & Clover in Brooklyn, Albertine in the West Village, and The Styleliner – a unique mobile shopping experience! Be sure to check the stockists page of our website for updates!

Aroc Urtu new earring design for Fall 2012.

What’s next for Aroc Urtu?
Lauren: Sarah and I couldn’t be more excited about our two upcoming collections. For summer we’re launching our Sea, Sand, and Sky collection that will incorporate Thai Gold, seafoam emeralds, and water blue sapphires. And for fall we’ve become obsessed with baroque pearls (I told you not to get me started), sliced rubies and emeralds with pave diamonds. We can’t wait to show you!

Where and How to Find Aroc Urtu Jewelry

If you would like to purchase Aroc Urtu’s designs, visit their website at www.arocurtu.com, or to visit a store that carries their designs you can find a location here. As a special Valentine’s Day, you can take 20% off of any jewelry on their site, Feb 1st through March 1st, 2012, using code vday2012 at check out. It’s an amazing opportunity to own a piece of wearable art at a justifiable price!

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Aroc Urtu Jewelry Interview

Colette Jewelry Draco Earrings from the Galaxia Collection, 18kt black gold with diamonds and moonstones, Retail $9980.

The Jewelry of Colette

Born into a French-Mexican family, Colette’s life has straddled both cultures and geographic locations. She manages to marry the more colorful, flamboyant imagery of Mexican and ancient native cultures with a more restrained French aesthetic. In Colette’s skillful hands, snakes are serpents from Eden, tempting rather than repelling us. Swords are bejeweled daggers whose charm doesn’t completely bely their danger. This is conversation-piece jewelry.

Colette Jewelry Excalibur Ring from the Azucar Collection, in 18kt black gold with white diamonds. Retail $4600.

Each design starts with a premise, an idea of inspiration. Then she works through the process of detailed drawings and wax models, until finally the finished piece of jewelry is set and polished to Colette’s exact specifications. Then she physically wears the piece, living with it for a while until she deems it is perfect, covet-able, and ready to weave into her collections.

Her collections are somewhat prolific, and cover a range of themes: flies, flowers, skulls, even the celestial is inspiration. I could spend at least a day browsing through everything. Made of gorgeous materials, every single piece receives the same amount of exacting scrutiny. Colette is especially skillful at incorporating the mechanics of the item into the design: the sword wraps effortlessly and becomes the band. Of course, the real stars here are the stones. With Colette, it always comes back to the stones…

Colette Jewelry Fly Pendant from the Bestioles Collection, 18kt black gold with black and white diamond pave and carved Labradorite, Retail $20,600.

The Interview with Colette

idazzle: It sounds as though your initial inspiration came from coaxing color and light from stones that hadn’t been seen before. Have you moved away from that or is that still an inspiration?
Colette: I have always been in love with color, especially the colors you find in nature like the blues, greens and turquoises of the ocean, land, animals and their intricacies, rainbow sunsets and flowers. You can find the most special color combinations. I love to play with different color palettes, tones and hues. I like to work with stones that have amazing color saturation and then combining them with neutral colors such as diamonds. I am so inspired by colors and what surrounds me – especially when I travel. My latest collection that is currently in the works is largely inspired by the color of the sea in Italy and the magnificent dragonflies that buzz around – their wings are just sensational.

Colette Jewelry Taipan Ring from the Eden Collection, 18kt black gold with diamonds and emeralds, Retail $8520.

Can’t wait to see those! What does your creative process look like? Do you begin with the stones, or with sketches?
Once I have in mind what I want to create I start with a simple sketch, then I move to the real sketch which means a full drawing in color with all the specifications for stone sizes and type of stone. Usually when I get the inspiration of a collection, I already know which stones I am going to work with. It is a simultaneous process. After the proper drawing is finished, then I move to the CAD design, and once everything is perfect, I print a wax and it goes to casting. After that you finally get to see exactly how the design is going to look which gets me really excited! Then, I proceed to setting and finally polishing. The piece is ready. After I make sure everything is made to perfection including the setting, the gold, finish and polish, I wear the piece for a little while. With photography being one of my hobbies, I like to take the pictures of my pieces myself, which I do in different positions and with varying backgrounds. If I want to put the piece in my jewelry box, then I know it is perfect and ready to show!

Colette Jewelry Green Camelot Ring from the Azucar Collection, 18kt black gold with white and black diamonds and emeralds, Retail $12,100.

You have a number of different collections, each with a central theme underlying. Do you have a favorite collection, something especially close to your heart?
The closest one to my heart is “feuille” because it involves so much of my personal life; it is the foundation of my business and thus my logo. The motif is a leaf that I found many years ago on Boulevard Saint Germain in Paris. I have always collected leaves and have a beautiful collection of leaves that I have found over the years. I love leaves because of their beauty and because they mark the seasons and that they fall from trees that represent life. Their structure also seems so elegant. And I want to immortalize leaves by making them into jewelry, setting them with different colored diamonds to represent each season of the year.

Colette Due Bracelet from the Feuille Collection, 18kt black gold with white and black diamond pave, Retail $12,150.

How does your heritage affect your designs?
I have lived between France and Mexico my whole life and I think that this cultural background absolutely has had an impact on my work. In Mexico, there is a great tradition of mysticism that comes from the ancient Azteca culture and a very vivid use of color that one can see in everyday life. My French sensibility I think has made me very in tune with elegance in design and simplicity of lines.

How do you decide when a piece is finished, complete?
I think that a piece is finished when I see that its design truly expresses the idea that I started with and after I have worn it and am confident that it is something that I would like to have for myself.

Colette Jewelry Dominica Ring from the Mar Collection, 18kt yellow gold seastar legs hold a faceted rose quartz, Retail $7500.

Do you have a current muse or obsession?
My current obsessions are insects and wings. These structures are so intricate and many times we look at them and do not really see them and to me they represent different sorts of mysteries.

Out of curiosity, what were the stones you worked with originally, that started it all?
The stones that I worked with originally are Peridot, Tanzanite, and Apatite.

Colette Jewelry single stud earring with attached cuff that wraps around the ear, 18kt black gold with white diamonds and moonstone, Retail $3900.

Thank you so much, Colette, for a glimpse into your magical world!

To see more of her collection, or to contact Colette and her staff about a design, you can visit them at www.colettejewelry.com. You can also see her designs at several stores in the USA and Mexico, including Fragments at 116 Prince Street, New York, New York, or call 212.334.9588.

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Colette Jewelry Interview

Jordan Alexander Necklace Containing 300 Year Old Yemen Prayer Beads, Moonstones, Pave Diamond Beads and Clasp

Jordan Alexander Jewelry Background

So who can make pearls go from tepid to trend? The designer responsible for Jordan Alexander’s aesthetic is Theresa Bruno. A native of Alabama, Theresa grew up surrounded by the tradition of jewelry in the south. The pearls and jewelry collections of her mother and grandmother definitely made an impression, with their fine workmanship and classic styles. But when Theresa began designing her own jewelry in 2010, she wanted something serious but with a twist: a way to wear materials that are recognizably fine, but in a fresh way that can go from office to grocery store to night out effortlessly.

Jordan Alexander Pave Diamond Double Loop Diamond Slice Earrings

The Jewelry of Jordan Alexander

In addition to a selection of core designs, Jordan Alexander releases new collections of jewelry each season. Looking over the collection for Fall 2011, I was struck by the variety of materials: Jasper, Tiger Eye, Chysolite, Pyrite, tea-dyed bone, wood, Moonstone, and antique Yemen prayer beads, to name just a few. The jewelry is a reset of combination expectations, with rough-textured black lava happily coexisting with luminous pearls or twinkling pave beads.

Jordan Alexander Peacock Baroque Pearl Necklace with Diamond Pave Links and Clasp

My favorites? I would layer the 42 inch Navy or Beige Pearl strands with the 28 inch versions with a tassle. Or the long Sandalwood or Bone beads with shorter leather macrames woven with creamy pearls and diamonds. I could have the mother of all arm parties with an ivory or beige pearl bracelet, layered with crocheted multi-strands with sparkling black spinels, and finished with macrame woven with a pave diamond disc. I genuinely covet almost any of her earring designs, but especially love the pave buttons paired with the antique Yemen prayer bead drops: drama, beauty and history all in one sophisticated package.

Jordan Alexander Peacock Bracelet Twist Bracelet with Diamond and Sapphire Beads

The Interview with Jordan Alexander Jewelry

idazzle.com: When did Jordan Alexander Jewelry officially launch, and what was the ultimate impetus to make the jump into fine jewelry design?
Teresa Bruno of Jordan Alexander: Jordan Alexander officially launched in August 2010. I had been designing my own pieces for about three years when I decided to start the company. I wanted a look that combined my grandmother’s classic sense of style with my own edgier sense. When I couldn’t find it, I decided to create my own. High-fashion individuals would repeatedly lift the pieces from around my neck and ask to purchase them, and eventually, my business partner and I laid the groundwork to take us to where we are today.

Where are your designs made, New York or Los Angeles? How has your history in Alabama influenced your designs?
I design when I am in both New York and L.A. I feed off of the amazing, creative individuals I work with, and am always pleasantly surprised by where I end up. Because a number of my pieces use such an unusual type of tying method, they are reproduced in LA. Being in Birmingham keeps me true to my southern roots and southern influence.

Do you feel that your background in classical music has impacted your designs?
I have always had a love and appreciation for beauty and artistry. In fact, I spent my childhood and early adult years training to be a classical musician. This training helped define me as a person and influenced my life’s creative journey as a musician, designer, arts educator and film producer.

Jordan Alexander White Agate and Baroque Pearl Necklace with Diamond Pave Links and Clasp

Can you tell us about your design process? For instance, how do you come up with such imaginative combinations of gems?
The actual design process may consist of working from sketches that are exact – working from drawings of designs that I envision – or, sometimes, it’s more fluid and evolves from seeing a specific material or certain finding I want to build on. I’m constantly trying to find creative uses for the materials I find. I look for elements to bring unexpected twists to my designs. I love combining traditional, classic elements like diamonds and other precious stones with rich, organic pieces like lava and moonstone. Perhaps my most recent example is how I’ve been working with diamond and pearl slices to create unique and more economical pieces.

What is the most interesting gem or material you have acquired so far? Have you been able to incorporate that into a design yet?
I certainly think the most interesting piece you’ll find in my designs is the 300-year-old Yemen prayer bead. These beads are pieces of antiquity that mothers prayed over for their children. Aside from being beautiful pieces, the history behind them makes them even more meaningful and valuable to use in my designs.

How does it feel to have the attention of people like WWD editors and the First Lady?! Did you have any sense when launching that your designs would resonate so quickly?
It’s an overwhelming honor, and I pinch myself from time to time to remind myself that this really happening. I put all of my creative energy into my work, and I see the amazing people I work with doing the same thing. To know that what we’re doing is impacting people on a level so much greater than ourselves is truly rewarding.

What is on the horizon for Jordan Alexander?
Right now, we’re expanding our presence across the country. As far as the actual line goes, we introduced our first set of enhancers and rings in Fall 2011. I’m looking forward to taking new concepts and expanding the collection to include more of those pieces.

Jordan Alexander Silver Ring with Quartz Slice and Diamonds

How and Where to Buy Jordan Alexander Jewelry

Many of the pieces are made in LA, but Theresa stays close to her roots by maintaining an office of the company in Birmingham, AL. You can contact them through the Jordan Alexander Facebook page. To see any of the items pictured here, or inquire about Jordan Alexander jewelry, you can find an extensive collection at Fragments New York City store in SoHo, or Fragments website. Contact them here or call 212.334.9588 to find out more. Jordan Alexander’s designs can also be found at other boutiques across the country, including Shari’s Place in Greenvale, NY and Marissa Collections in Naples, FL.

The designer of Jordan Alexander, Theresa Bruno at work

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Jordan Alexander Jewelry Interview

I just received a few images of her new collections, and they were so gorgeous, I had to share. There is a cohesive quality in the metal colors and textures, yet each piece is totally distinctive. I find the silhouettes incredibly on-trend and modern, yet there is a feeling of authentic ethnicity in the details.

Blackened Silver and 18K Gold Meus Designs Pave Colored Diamond Ring (Center Dia 6.49 cts, Other Dia Wt. 1.89 cts), $11,200 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Diamond & Milky Moonstone Oval Bezel Ring (Dia Wt. 2.25 cts), $5,390 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Champagne Diamond Tear Drop Earrings with Black Diamonds (Black Dia Wt: 5.66 cts, Champ Dia Wt. 0.80 cts), $7,600 Retail

Blackened Silver and 18K Gold Meus Designs Boulder Opal Ring with Diamonds (Dia Wt. .50 cts), $6,200 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Champagne Diamond & Emerald Frame Chandelier Earrings (Dia Wt: 1.10 cts, Emerald Wt: 2.3 cts), $4,200 Retail

I covet any of these for my personal collection, but I would (figuratively) kill for the Boulder Opal ring and the Emerald and Diamond Silhouette Earrings. I look forward to seeing more from this talented designer!

View this post on idazzle.com: New Meus Designs

Gerard Yosca Wood Beaded Drop Necklace in Turquoise from the Green Label Diffusion Line, $50 Retail

Gerard Yosca Triple Drop Crystal Earrings, $175 Retail

The Jewelry of Gerard Yosca

Gerard Yosca’s designs successfully meld an astonishing array of materials into a cohesive design theme each season: enamels, candy-colored faceted beads, wood, exotic stones, vintage charms and much more all come together to create wearable sculptures. All of his designs are made with care in New York City, a relative rarity in fashion jewelry these days. His design room is a playground of amazing raw materials all laid out in experimental combinations to get the look of each piece just right. (For a wonderful glimpse into Gerard’s studio and persona, check out this Unracked video interview of Gerard, sponsored by Gilt Groupe). This individual focus and intense concern for the design process shows throughout the whole collection.

Gerard Yosca Cherry Red Bangle Bracelet Set, $112 Retail

Did I mention that his designs are also exceptionally well-priced? It is not easy to find beautifully designed jewelry that is made well, domestically no less, from $75 to $600 retail. Gerard’s pieces are going to represent investments of the BEST workmanship available at their respective price points.

Gerard Yosca 75-Inch Pearl and Rhinestone Necklace from the Green Label Diffusion Line, $98 Retail

The Gerard Yosca Interview

idazzle: Your background in fashion design really shows in your designs. How did you originally discover jewelry design and what inspired you to make the switch?
Gerard Yosca: I actually have a graphic design and advertising background but loved fashion so much that I decided to switch industries. When reality struck, it was much easier to figure out how to make jewelry than how to drape and sew a garment.

Gerard Yosca Gold Wire Crystal Ring, $78 Retail

You design an array of jewelry categories: brooches, fabulous statement necklaces, dramatic cuffs. Is there a particular kind of jewelry that lets you be really free with your design process?
Brooches- they’re like little sculptures.

Gerard Yosca Rhinestone and Brass Disc Earring, $145 Retail

How do you arrive at your “theme” or direction each season?
It usually stems from what I’m looking for in my personal life. The change from complicated to homier food. The sudden desire for a bright colored sweater. These changes indicate a shift to what’s next. I’ve learned how valuable it is to take cues from what’s going on in my world.

Gerard Yosca Wood Beaded Necklace in Pink, $50 Retail

How would you describe the signature, underlying essence that is Gerard Yosca jewelry year after year, even as trends cycle through?
Every piece has a handcrafted look. You can really see this it is not mass-produced. There is also a strong point of view and personality to each collection. Color is another signature. I love some pretty nutty color combinations.

Classic Gerard Yosca Jewelry from Previous Collections, from Archive Photos

You have designed runway jewelry for some amazing fashion designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren, and Nanette Lepore. Are you currently working on any interesting collaborations with fashion designers? If you can’t tell us about your current projects, what’s a recent collaboration that was really memorable?
When I collaborate with another designer I really love to put my heart and soul into the design process. Right now I’m putting all my focus into my signature collection, which doesn’t leave much time for anything else.

Gerard Yosca Turquoise Sunburst Chandelier Earrings, $145 Retail

You sell primarily through small specialty retailers. What are the benefits for collectors to buy through these retailers?
The retailers know what their customers own and what they might like. Often our buyers will mention customers by name, and tell me which of my pieces they’ve purchased. I love that relationship.

Gerard Yosca Wood and Crystal Drop Earring, $135 Retail

Can you tell us about your book?
My book is a project I have not yet found the time to start. But it will show 27 years of jewelry made by someone who knew nothing when he started and who thinks he may be finally getting the hang of it. I hope it might inspire someone to take a chance on a foolhardy career. If you’re passionate and love what you’re doing, you can make a life out of it.

Beautifully said! I look forward to hearing more about the book, and hope that your words inspire some fledgling designer to take the plunge! Thank you so much for sharing your experience!

You can find Gerard’s jewelry in a variety of local boutiques around the country, email his studio here to get more information. You can also find his designs online at retailer Charm&Chain. Also, it’s only appropriate that his amazing, downtown styles frequently appear–and steal the scene–on Gossip Girl! I hope that you have a chance to see his designs in person, and maybe I’ll see a few gorgeous necklaces and bracelets on friends this season!

The Designer Himself, Gerard Yosca

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Gerard Yosca Interview

Erica Courtney Coco Ring with 6.41 carat Oval Zultanite and 1.58 ct TW Diamonds in 18k Gold

Zultanite

Zultanite the “Sultan of Gems” is a remarkable—and recent—gem discovery. It is found in only ONE deposit in the remote and jaw-droppingly beautiful Anatolia Mountains of Turkey. Zultanite has a color-change phenomenon–the most rare of gem effects–with colors for one gem ranging from sage green and canary yellow, to vivid kiwi green, raspberry pink, with warm ginger and cognac. The colors change as the light source changes. The gem is never enhanced, which is remarkable if you understand that most colored gemstones in the market are enhanced or treated in some way to improve their color or durability.

I had a chance to view several Zultanites in person (I returned the gems, I did not receive jewelry or compensation in exchange for this review). This gem is quite unlike any I have seen before. In very bright sunlight, the Zultanites I saw sparkled with bright, crisp facets in a sage green with sunny yellow highlights. I then took it into incandescent light indoors, and the gem turned deeper, richer: caramel-y cognac with khaki green flashes. Once the sun went down, I checked the colors again in incandescent light, and now they were pale raspberry, with some apricot thrown in. I tried viewing them in candlelight, and though it was hard to get enough light to really appreciate the color, the raspberry pink was really intensified. Amazing that one stone can have so many personalities!

Rhonda Faber Green Olympia Chandelier Earrings 44.73 ct TW Zultanites and 4.02 ct TW Diamonds in 18k White Gold

Responsible Mining

It is mined responsibly, both in its impact on the environment, and its positive impact on the lives on the mine workers. The mining process does not use chemicals for extraction, and trucks are used to transport kitchen and bathroom waste water out of the site. Miners are paid above-average wages and are fully insured, and supplies are purchased from surrounding villages whenever possible. Additionally, the mine contributes to local charities and food banks, and employs local residents when possible, to create symbiotic relationships with the surrounding people and environment.

Rhonda Faber Green Legacy Ring with 13.08 ct Zultanite and 0.10 ct TW Diamonds in 18k Gold, Retail $21,720

Amazing Zultanite Designer Jewelry

It is no wonder then that Zultanite has captured the imagination of some major jewelry designers who have created one-of-a-kind pieces around these one-of-a-kind gems. Designers such as Erica Courtney, Rhonda Faber Green, Daniel Gibbings, Christian Tse, Sevan and Evelyn H to name a few.

Rhonda Faber Green Imperial Ring with 2.66 ct Zultanite and 0.30 ct TW Diamonds Set in 18k Gold

The Interviews

I had the opportunity to ask a few of these designers about their experiences working with Zultanite.

idazzle: What was your first thought when you saw the gem in person?
Erica Courtney: When I saw the gem for the first time, I gasped and couldn’t help but to think “WOW.” I didn’t expect what I was going to see.

Daniel Gibbings: Wow, what is this!!! I have never seen any stone like this before.

Rhonda Faber Green: I was intrigued by the color change in the stone. I am constantly amazed by “Mother Nature’s” ability to surprise us with yet another beautiful gemstone.

evelyn H. Jewelry: My first impression when I saw Zultanite was wow! What a refreshing new color stone! Zultanite is very unique and different. The colors from lime green to a strawberry orange comes out in different lighting environments and it was interesting to see the many tones as well as blends occurring when the stone was placed in different lighting environments.

Daniel Gibbings Ring with Catseye Zultanite and Pink Rubies in Hand-hammered and Carved 20k Gold

idazzle: Did you immediately have an idea about how to design around it? Or did it take some time and discovery to create just the right foil for the Zultanite?
Erica Courtney: It took me a little bit of time to pick what accent stones to use with Zultanite because this gemstone is so unique. I was on an extensive search to find the exact shade of pink sapphire that would complement the various shades that Zultanite exposes. Currently, I’m looking for the perfect shade of Demantoids to design with Zultanite.

Daniel Gibbings: I had a vision instantly, because of its color-changing attribute, but it took some time to perfect the vision I had into actual pieces.

Rhonda Faber Green: Many ideas immediately came to mind on how to use this versatile stone. One of the first rings that I designed was an ancient temple. I used a beautiful Zultanite gem as the roof. I knew it would enhance the beauty of the stone; it drew light from all angles. I was amazed to later learn that there is an ancient ruin near the mine in Turkey where Zultanite was discovered.

evelyn H. Jewelry: Zultanite has such great color change properties that makes it appealing to both sexes; however, I immediately knew that I wanted to do something more masculine. A lot of times men feel there are not as much color stone options found in men’s jewelry, and I thought it would be a lot of fun and something different to do. I knew I wanted something structural but it did take a few weeks to solidify the design.

Rhonda Faber Green Olympia Swirl Pendant with 5.15 carat Zultanite and 1.77 ct TW Diamonds in 18k White Gold

idazzle: Were there any challenges working with this gem, in terms of durability or characteristics that are unique to it versus other gems you work with?
evelyn H. Jewelry: Zultanite is an interesting stone to work with. We were given the guidelines beforehand on how to set it because of it’s cleavage and other structural properties, however we created a design that wouldn’t utilize much force in the setting process. We discovered that as long as everybody working on the piece is aware of the sensitiveness in regards to the stone, it was not difficult to work with. Let’s just say it’s a tourmaline, tanzanite, and emerald rolled into one, however if you understand these stones and are comfortable working with them, you won’t have a problem with Zultanite.

Erica Courtney Madeline Ring with 5.32ct Zultanite and Diamonds in 18k Gold, Retail $10,800

idazzle: Can you describe the gem for people who can’t see it directly and capture its essence?
Rhonda Faber Green: The instant beauty of Zultanite is revealed under different kinds of lighting where the variety of colors really show up. Other color-change gemstones I’ve seen have just two basic colors. With Zultanite, I’ve seen an array of colors – canary yellow, ginger, green, champagne, raspberry pink, light brown and sage green. This variety of colors compliments both yellow and white gold and even platinum designs. I love that the saturation of color in each piece of Zultanite varies from stone to stone. This allows each Zultanite piece to have its unique personality.

evelyn H. Jewelry: Imagine a tranquil green meadow right when the sun is setting. You have the beautiful yellowy green as the last rays of the sun touches the meadow, and then you have the reds, oranges, and tans as the sun sinks over the hill and reflects in the sky. That’s what I see when I look at the stone. It really is mesmerizing.

Daniel Gibbings Statement Earrings with Zultanite and Rubies in 18k Gold

A Trip to Turkey

Erica Courtney had the opportunity to travel to Turkey to visit the Zultanite mine. I asked her a couple of questions about her experience there.

idazzle: How did going to Turkey and visiting the source for the gem, with all its culture and history, influence your ultimate designs?
Erica Courtney: Turkey is a very romantic place. You can’t help but fall in love with Zultanite completely. This best explains my love for Turkey and Zultanite…..”Before I experienced Turkey, it was lust, but after Turkey, it was love.” After meeting the staff and owner at the mine, I was able to see how well they treated the land, their employees and gemstones—you can’t help but see how precious the gems and people are and it’s hard not to fall in love with everything and everyone involved.

idazzle: What made the biggest impact on you from your visit to the mine: the people involved, the effort it takes to extract even one stone, the rarity of this gem in particular? What stands out for you?
Erica Courtney: The biggest impact for me was the attitude of the staff members at the mine. They were all so happy and friendly. I felt like they were a huge family and they were welcoming me in as a new member. I could tell that everyone who worked at the mine were generally concerned with each other and the environment. They were really passionate about their work and the gems.

Dancing with the Star's Carrie Ann Inaba Wearing Rhonda Faber Green's Olympia Zultanite Earrings

Look for more press and interest in this gem as its beauty, rarity, and other intangible qualities become more well known. For instance, just this week Carrie Ann Inaba was spotted wearing amazing Rhonda Faber Green Zultanite earrings on Dancing with the Stars! Ask your local jeweler to see a Zultanite, and visit the websites of the designers seen here for more information. As always, drop me a line here and let me know if you need a referral to a designer or retailer who has access to this remarkable gem.

Erica Courtney Raindrop Pendant with Zultanite and Diamonds in Platinum

View this post on idazzle.com: Zultanite: New Gem Discovered by Amazing Jewelry Designers

The creator of Meus Designs, Suneera Swarup, has debuted a collection that seems infused with the traditions and cultures of her native India, but utterly modern at the same time. She began designing as a young girl, starting first with textile design. This led to her exploring other surface mediums, until discovering jewelry. She finds inspiration in everything from the vibrant colors of India to an interesting Art Deco motif to music. Her textured, varied collections are all designed and handcrafted in her Los Angeles studio.

Meus Designs 18kt Gold and Blackened Silver Blue Sapphire Pave Teardrop Earrings, $3600 Retail

The Collections of Meus Designs

In the Influence Collection, black or brown diamonds and blackened silver metal stand in striking contrast to vibrant polished 18kt gold. Ancient symbols mingle, somehow cohesively, with Art Deco patterns and lines. There are pendants, suspended on layered leather cords, or strands made of gold, sterling and Ruby beads. Everything has an elegance to it, but looks like you could throw it on with jeans and be instantly glamorous in a strong, feminine way.

Meus Designs Small Framed Cross Ring in 18kt Rose Gold and .97 ct Diamonds

In her brand new collection, intriguing named Lure, Suneera has delved even deeper into playing with metal textures and colors. Deep, rich browns and blacks are highlighted with inlaid highly polished rose and yellow gold, or gleaming cabochon gems. There is definitely something suggesting mystery in this collection.

Meus Designs Lure Hoop Earrings in Blackened Silver with 18kt Gold and Cabochon Emeralds

Meus Designs also has a predominantly Sterling Silver line, named M Sterling. The jewelry in this collection incorporates similar motifs and textures as the other collections, but is crafted in silver, which makes it very collectible.

Meus Designs M Sterling Cross Ruby Ring

The Interview with Meus Designs Creator, Suneera Swarup

idazzle.com: Your shapes and motifs are totally original, as if you have been dreaming of these for years, and now the shapes are expressed in this precious jewelry. Does Meus have a specific Muse, something or someone you often use for inspiration?
Meus Designs: Originality is returning to the origin which is Nature. And nature never goes out of fashion. Aesthetic beauty rules our world in various fields, where form and functionality are inseparable. Meus is the synthesis of Art Deco, ancient traditions and eastern elements.

It sounds like you have a background in design, textile and other surfaces. What prompted your interest in jewelry design specifically?
I have always worked in fields involving color and creativity. In a larger industry, it is difficult to translate design work into actual products. With jewelry design, I feel I have a personal canvas where my design visions can be instantly realized. Plus, I have always had a love for jewelry, like most women do!

Meus Designs Stretch Bracelets with Peruvian Chalcedony and Pave Diamond Accents, $820, $6400, and $700 Retail from Top to Bottom

What does your studio process look like? Do you have specific gems that you design around, or do you design two dimensionally first and then source the stones?
I work both ways – Looking for new, unique material with a design direction in mind and vice versa.

Meus Designs 18kt Gold and Blackened Silver Pink Sapphire Oval Ring, $2140 Retail

Your use of recycled materials is very responsible and also a bit rare. Can you tell us how you decided to pursue this path, even though it’s not so easy?
Recycling and optimizing resources started as a necessity, and gradually became a efficient system, which we are proud to follow. Having a daughter who is passionate about the environment always keeps us in line too. I guess for that reason, she could be called a Muse for Meus!

You recently introduced the Lure Collection, when can we see more designs? Any other collections you can give a hint about?
We have some new pieces that will be completed later this spring that we are really excited about for the Lure collection! They fit in well with the current collections but add a different dimension to the line, particularly in the red-carpet category. There will certainly be collections added to Meus in time, but right now we are focused on expanding Lure.

Meus Designs Carved Turquoise Weave Earrings in 18kt Gold and Blackened Silver

It’s a bit rare that a very new designer would get noticed. Why do you think your designs have resonated with celebrities so quickly after your launch?
I am truly flattered and thankful to everyone who has appreciated my work. I like my designs to be timeless and ageless. I want my jewelry to be passed on as heirlooms; pieces that will hold value and sentiment. I am hoping this is feeling is reflected in the designs and celebrities, being artists in their own right, identify with this feeling.

Meus Designs Emerald Hook Necklace in 18kt Gold, Blackened Silver and Faceted Emerald Beads and Pave

Thank you so much, Suneera, for your thoughts and insights! Meus Designs has shown amazing promise in its first collections launched just in the last year. The word meus translates to “mine” or “belonging to me”, and Meus Designs shows a very strong sense of self and identity in its collection. You can find Meus Designs at Nina at Fred Segal in Santa Monica, Lissa Fine Jewelry in NY, and a few other select boutiques in the country: click here for a list. To contact Meus Designs about any of the jewelry you see here, visit MeusDesigns.com.

Meus Designs Serpent Earrings in 18kt Yellow Gold on Diamond Huggie Hoop

Meus Designs Stack of Bangles in 18kt Gold and Blackened Silver in Sophisticated Gem Colors, Most Styles Around $1000 Retail Each

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: An Interview with Meus Designs

Melinda Maria Baby Mosaic Earrings in Emerald CZ with White CZ in 18kt Plate, $105 Retail.

Melinda Maria’s Story

Melinda’s story begins with an obsession with her mother’s jewelry box at an early age. This led to designing ad hoc over the years, for herself and friends, until launching her own jewelry design company in her 20′s. She is totally self-taught, with an instinctive feel for colors, shapes and how they combine. Her designs now straddle the fine and fashion jewelry worlds, with items that are well-made enough to hand down, but still affordable enough to collect in a big way.

Melinda Maria Sabina Pod Hoop Earrings, 18kt Plated with Clear and Colored CZ Options, $200 Retail

The Jewelry of Melinda Maria

Melinda Maria’s line of jewelry includes earrings, rings, pendants and bracelets in a number of organized collections. Perhaps most well-known is the Pod collection, where organic concave ovals join together in a myriad of ways that is fresh and wearable. You’ve seen this collection on Julia Roberts, Christina Applegate, and Vanessa Hudgens. The Gwyneth collection features a marquise-shaped “pod” at it’s core, with lots of fun variations, with and without colorful CZ gems. Goddess jewelry features shimmering hammered paillettes, often in long lovely lines. And there are always new, textured, colorful designs being added throughout the year. With target price points ranging from $50 to $200 (a few select items might be a bit more), there is a ton of scale, workmanship and personality in each piece.

These are items you can buy without impunity, then reach for again and again. It’s real jewelry crafted in silver and plated with precious 18kt, with quality clasps and details you would find in the world’s finest jewelry.

Stack of Melinda Maria Gwyneth Rings in Blue Opal CZ in 18kt Plate, $52 Retail Each, many other colors available.

The Interview with Melinda Maria

idazzle: I love your philosophy of making people happy and confident by adornment, and that something as simple as a piece of jewelry can bring people together. How did it happen that you started your own jewelry design company?
Melinda Maria: I have always had shiny object syndrome since I was a little girl. I was obsessed with my mothers jewelry box, always trying to make my own with her loose pearls and beads. So it was a hobby/obsession of mine making jewelry from about 10 until I actually started Melinda Maria when I was about 27.

I love it: SOS (Shiny Object Syndrome)! What is your background?
I think I have spent more time studying stones and design on my own rather than formal training. I am totally self taught.

Stack of Melinda Maria Galaxy Cluster Melted Bangles, in Rose 18kt Plate with Black Diamond CZs, $135 Retail Each.

Where does the inspiration come from for your new collections?
EVERYTHING can be inspiring! I walk through my days with my eyes wide open because I can be inspired by so many things that I run into in my daily life. I don’t just have to be in an exotic place–I could get inspiration from the produce section in the grocery store! Shapes, colors, and textures in anything can translate to art, so I am always looking.

Your designs have appeared on so many celebrities and fashion personalities, your name is almost synonymous with the people who wear your designs! Why do you think your designs resonate with people so strongly?
Wow thank you! That is quite a compliment. I can only say I design pieces that I know I will feel special and beautiful in so I guess that translates to other women feeling the same way in my pieces!

Melinda Maria Pave Pod Ring in Platinum Plate with Clear CZs, $85 Retail.

Tell me about the charities that your company supports.
There are so many! My most recent is CURA Heart Africa necklace which 100% of the proceeds go to CURA orphanage organization in the village of Cura, Kenya, a residence for children who have lost their parent to AIDS. The orphaned children range from ages 4-13 and CURA is a complete care facility which covers all the children’s food, clothing, education and most of all a place to call home.

Melinda Maria CURA Heart Necklace in 18kt Plate, 100% of Proceeds from the $65 Retail Will Be Donated to CURA Orphanage.

Would you ever create a special fine jewelry collection using precious metals and gems for your loyal followers who want to take collecting to the next level?
I started out with doing a fine line. For me as a designer it wasn’t as fulfilling because I like big bold pieces and in fine they were costing $10,000- $50,000 and I love designing and seeing it on women who buy my pieces. So I realized in the marketplace there was a void of costume jewelry that looks and is constructed like a fine piece of jewelry but most women can buy. So all of my pieces are pieces that you pass down to your daughters because they are all crafted with the care of a diamond and gold piece of jewelry.

What jewelry are you wearing right now?
An arm full of my bangles and my tiny pod hoops in turquoise…I am ready for Spring!!

Any jewelry trends you want to predict for 2011?
Lots and lots of bangles!!! Big and bold looks.

Well, Melinda certainly has bold looks covered! I appreciate her aesthetic AND philosophy of making beautiful, fashionable jewelry affordable to any woman craving a little pick-me-up. Her various philanthropic efforts through jewelry are also inspiring. Melinda Maria has arranged for an EXCLUSIVE 30% OFF courtesy for idazzle.com readers! So go ahead and indulge: visit Melinda Maria at www.melindamaria.com, and use the code IDAZZLE30 at check out from February 7th through February 28th, 2011!

Melinda Maria with Friends, Hayden Panettiere and Eva Longoria

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Melinda Maria Jewelry

It turns out that even the most non-hyperbole-prone observer would spontaneously say something theatrical when seeing these designs. They are just that daring.

Welcome to the world of Jemma Wynne, where high fashion meets jewelry meets Smithsonian-worthy gem specimens.

Jemma Wynne 18K Limited Edition Necklace with Bicolor Tourmaline, Pave and Rosecut Diamonds, $4,100 Retail; Available at Churchill, KS.

The Background

Jemma Wynne consists of two designers, Jenny and Stephanie, working side-by-side in their 5th Ave Atelier. Jenny grew up as the only girl in a family with three boys, and consequently spent a lot of time with her talented painter/artist mother. She credits the time her mother spent helping Jenny pursue her creative endeavors–painting classes, mosaics–for her focus on design as art. Stephanie, always creative and coloring in sketch books as a child, studied graphic design in college, paving the way for a career in something beautiful. They met while working for established jewelry designer Judith Ripka. They almost immediately recognized an affinity in design and purpose, and started Jemma Wynne officially in 2008.

Their goal was to create jewelery in precious materials that was not stuffy, fussy, or so trendy that women would hesitate to buy it for themselves. They passionately wanted jewelry that appealed to sophisticated women, but wanted it to be worn, mixed and layered. They manage to create jewelry that is dramatic and incredibly beautiful, but wearable, too.

Jemma Wynne 18K Limited Edition Earrings with Bicolor Tourmalines, Pave and Rosecut Diamonds, $8,090 Retail; Available at Jemma Wynne

The Jewelry of Jemma Wynne

Looking at their collection, you get the sense that jewelry is FUN. Gorgeous gemstones combine in unexpected ways. Shapes are definitely mixed up and recombined in ways that challenge traditional ideas of fine jewelry. Interesting details are layered, so that those who study and take a second look are rewarded.

Jemma Wynne Ankara Cabochon Rings in 18k with Rose Quartz, Cognac and White Diamonds $12,080 Retail; and Milky Aqua, Cognac and White Diamonds $8,930; Available at Churchill, KS.

Chances are that you have seen some of their designs in the press recently: Harper’s Bazaar in December 2010; InStyle in August 2010; mentions and features in LA Confidential, Town and Country.

Jessica Biel Wearing Jemma Wynne Cabochon Ring

The Interview with Stephanie and Jenny of Jemma Wynne

idazzle: How did the two of you meet?
Jenny: Coincidentally, Stephanie and I have followed very similar paths. We both were very artistic and creative growing up and while in college we stumbled into the world of jewelry making. It started as a hobby for both of us, and as we wore our pieces we began to develop small followings.
Stephanie: As my pieces gained popularity, I decided to put together a small collection and began selling to boutiques in New York City and New Jersey. After I graduated from American University with a Bachelors degree in graphic design, I began working in the design department of Judith Ripka as an assistant to the designer.
Jenny: As I started selling more of my pieces, I decided to start a small business selling my jewelry at private trunk shows where I developed a devout clientele. It didn’t take long for me to realize that I loved what I was doing and this was my passion, so during my next two summers I interned at Judith Ripka in the design and product development department. After I graduated from the University of Pennsylvania, I was hired full time and that is where Stephanie and I met in 2005. It was really our passion and creativity that drove us to start our own company only a few years later in 2008.

Jemma Wynne Signature Bangles in Rainbow of Gems

How did the original idea of Jemma Wynne germinate? What was the catalyst to forming a fine jewelry design company?
Jenny: Steph and I very quickly realized our shared passion for jewelry making and similar design aesthetic. We felt like we had new ideas and wanted to share our vision.
Stephanie: We believe that there is a story behind every piece of jewelry- it is something that is special and unique. Whether it is a gift from a loved one for a special occasion or a gift for oneself, it holds some significant meaning to its owner. We love to be a part of that feeling and process. Jewelry also allows us to be creative and we believe that a woman’s jewelry should be something that is treasured and always relevant.
Jenny: We draw inspiration from our own personal styles; Stephanie’s more polished and classic sensibility combined with my relaxed femininity is reflected in our designs. This approach appeals to both mothers and daughters alike, making Jemma Wynne a cross-generational brand. We create for any woman who appreciates fine craftsmanship, unexpected detail and embraces her individual style.

What was your first collection?
Jenny: The first piece we ever made was a bangle with a rubelite pear shape on one side with an oval rosecut diamond on the other. We got such an amazing response to it that it sparked the development of our signature bangles that has become a staple and the best sellers in our collection.

What is your favorite gemstone/material combination so far?
Stephanie: Our favorite gemstones are bicolor tourmalines- they are so vibrant! We strive to create jewelry that is exquisite and out of the ordinary. Our one of a kind line of limited edition pieces, made with rare bicolor tourmalines, takes raw and organic materials and modernizes them into chic, elegant creations unlike anything else in the world of fine jewelry.

18K Limited Edition Earrings with Emerald Cut Bicolor Tourmalines and Pave Diamonds, $12,600 Retail; Availale at Churchill, KS.

How and where do you have your designs actually fabricated? Are there challenges in sourcing your unusual gemstones and getting top-quality production of your finished pieces?
Stephanie: All of our pieces are handmade here in New York City. We are really lucky to be within walking distance to the Jewelry District in NYC where we are able to work with suppliers that acquire their materials from all over the world. Our diamond suppliers source all our diamonds from Antwerp and Israel. A few times a year, as we start to make our new collections, our stone suppliers from Brazil, Germany, and India make a special trip to our office to show us all their new merchandise. Once a year Jenny also takes an exotic trip and comes back with new and interesting materials. It’s always exciting to see what she will bring back.
Jenny: The craftsmanship and quality of our pieces is something that is extremely important to us, so having them fabricated down the street from our office where we can oversee the process from start to finish is a priority for us and avoids any major unwanted surprises in the finished piece.

How would you describe your key customer? Do you have a specific muse?
Jenny: We define our design aesthetic as the “cashmere hoodie” of jewelry–rich, but comfortable. The vision of Jemma Wynne is to create versatile jewelry for women who desire a sophisticated look, while still maintaining that casual ease. Our jewelry epitomizes the concept of everyday luxury and we feel that fine jewelry should not have to live in a jewelry box, waiting for the perfect occasion to be pulled out and worn. With this in mind, we create collections to provide our customer with high quality, unique pieces that are comfortable and practical enough to wear with jeans and a t-shirt, yet are special enough to complement the finest couture.
Stephanie: Our jewelry is cross-generational in that it appeals to both mothers and daughters alike; we create for women who appreciate fine craftsmanship, unexpected detail and embrace their individual styles.

How does it feel to have your designs worn by The First Lady?
Jenny: It is truly an honor to have our pieces worn by Mrs. Obama, one of our generation’s true fashion icons. She truly epitomizes the Jemma Wynne woman- her clothes and style are rich, yet she maintains that casual element which makes it seem effortless.

Michelle Obama Wearing Jemma Wynne

Do you create anything custom for special clients?
Stephanie: We started in this business creating custom pieces for our loyal private clients. It is such a fun process to have people come in and custom design a personalized piece of Jemma Wynne jewelry. Clients come to our Atelier where we show them an assortment of stones, see what they gravitate towards, and together we design an exquisite piece of one of kind jewelry for them.

What’s on the horizon in 2011? Anything you can tell us without having to kill us?
Jenny: 2011 will be an exciting year for Jemma Wynne. Our collection is constantly evolving and we are focusing on creating even more spectacular bangles, and, of course, expanding on our Limited Edition bicolor tourmaline pieces. We have many other things in store, but nothing we can share just yet ☺.

These women are designing some truly amazing jewelry, and I love everything about their vision, from their design philosophy, to how they have their jewelry made with such care in the U.S.! Their jewelry can be found in a few select stores in the country, including Churchill in Kansas City and Ikram in Chicago. To inquire about their jewelry, visit their website at www.jemmawynne.com.

Jenny and Stephanie of Jemma Wynne

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Jemma Wynne

Last night, it was fun to be on official gem watch as the stars arrived on the Red Carpet, and then tweet live with other jewelry enthusiasts about the best (ok, and worst) ensembles. While admiring Claire Dane’s gorgeous cuff bracelet, the effusive diamonds of Sofia Vergara, and the unexpected old Hollywood glamour of Tina Fey’s Lorraine Schwartz earrings, I also kept my eyes peeled for Martin’s work.

And he did not disappoint, no less than four stars were dressed graciously in his jewels: Julie Bowen wore a stunning pair of rose-cut rich brown diamond studs, and a grey slice of diamond in a setting that channeled Art Deco with black and white accent pave:

Julie Bowen in Champagne Diamond Stud Earrings with White Diamond Micropave

Julie Bowen wore 5.11ct Rustic Gray Sliced Diamond Ring in 18kt White Gold with 4 Round Brilliant Diamonds and Micropave

Also wearing colored diamonds in sculptural cuts was actress Kelly MacDonald, in these stunning drop earrings, and a couple of lovely rings with micropave:

Kelly MacDonald Wearing Martin Katz Drop Earrings

Oval Orange Diamonds in 18kt Rose Gold Earrings set with 2 Pear Shape Rustic Diamond and Square Rustic Diamond (totalling over 40cts of diamonds)

Actress Gabourey Sidibe looked radiant in gorgeous color, especially the dramatic Amethyst and Diamond pave earrings:

Gabourey Sidibe in Martin Katz Amethyst and Diamond Earrings

Oval Cabochon Amethyst Earrings, 24.96 ct, in 18kt White Gold, Microset with 422 White Diamonds and 357 Amethysts (My Fav!)

Also making a more subtle, but no less wonderful appearance, was a pair of sophisticated Black Spinel and Diamond Cufflinks on Colin Firth:

Colin Firth's Cufflinks, 18k White Gold Black Spinel Diamond Corner Cuff Links

Martin Katz is not new to the Red Carpet: for nearly two decades, his designs have been beautifully represented by a number of celebrities. Among his devoted following are Nicole Kidman, Angelina Jolie, Salma Hayek, Jennifer Aniston, Cate Blanchette, Freida Pinto, and many more. Over the years he has dealt directly with people in his own home in Beverly Hills, or his exclusive showrooms in Beverly Hills and New York City. A select collection can also be viewed at Bergdorf Goodman.

idazzle Exclusive Interview with Martin Katz About 2011 Golden Globes Jewels

idazzle: You have been in the couture jewelry business long enough for your designs to go through some interesting transformations. Can you explain the inspiration and thought behind your current collection?
Martin Katz: Many of my current designs incorporate vivid colored gems in a spirited 1930’s contemporized look. I derive inspiration from Victorian jewelry, but use this concept in a simpler sense, which is embodied by my current collections. By surrounding large center stones with tiny multicolored stones such as green garnets, pink sapphires, amethysts and white diamonds, I am able to achieve this look.

Do you think that this collection and particularly the items worn, represent a larger theme for jewelry that we will see going forward?
MK: With the state of the current economy people have seemingly become more sensible, which has dictated a change in style. In terms of jewelry, pieces have become more colorful and suitable for every day wear. Obviously statement pieces will never retire, but it seems that they are taking a little break right now!

There seems to be an element of classic estate jewelry in some of your designs, suggesting old Hollywood glamour. How does vintage jewelry influence and inspire your current pieces?
MK: I began my career as a vintage jewelry dealer so my love for vintage pieces has always played an integral role in the design of my jewelry. I am always borrowing design concepts from the past to create my pieces for the present. Because of this, I like to say that my pieces have an old soul.

What kind of woman do you envision wearing your work? Do you have a specific muse?
MK: Women who wear my jewelry are typically self-confident and know what they like in design without being told. They are chic and stylish when they want to be, but do not feel compelled to always be perfectly coiffed. They admire art and have a deep appreciation for quality in all categories. My wife Kelly is my muse and is invaluable to me because she is a never-ending source of design ideas and insight as to what women want.

Martin Katz Opal and Diamond Ring with Amazing Pave

It seems as though you caught the jewelry bug early, with your fascination of how jewelry ornamentation affects people. Are you still captivated by that reaction? What else gives you motivation to keep creating?
MK: Having an artistic and “critical” eye is both my blessing and my curse. I am always observing how fashion and jewelry personify people. When it comes to the Red Carpet, it’s like a candy store of representation that all of us in the fashion world love to explore. Inspiration and motivation come from my wanting to create what others do not and finding a road less traveled when it comes to design direction. When the road fills with traffic again, I find it’s time to take a different route.

You have famously designed some non-jewelry ornaments, such as your 2007 wedding gown collaboration with Renee Strauss, and the 2008 Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra. What is your current focus in design right now, and does it go beyond jewelry?
MK: I am currently working on perfume bottles for a major fragrance group which will be announced sometime later this year.

I heard a rumor that you once walked the Red Carpet yourself ! Would you do it again?
MK: I once walked the Red Carpet alongside Sharon Stone, shortly after she starred in Basic Instinct. She proudly announced to the cameras that I was her jeweler, but in the early 1990’s the press wasn’t covering jewelry the way that they are today, or asking the questions they would today. If I were invited to walk the red carpet again, I would, but not by myself seeing as I’m not a celebrity!

Ha, I’m not so sure about that! Thank you so much Martin, for giving us your insight into jewelry trends and your inspiration right now!

About the Fabulous Jewelry of Martin Katz

Martin Katz’s first real experience with jewelry was selling sterling silver to other students in college, which grew into a larger fascination with the effect that jewelry had on people. His most recent designs are a mix of intricate micro-pave in colored gems arranged in randomly gorgeous, almost mathematical patterns, combined with luminous cabochon cut gemstones in spectral hues. Beyond the amazing gemstones, what is most impressive is the intricacy of the setting work and the way that the mechanics of the piece, like prongs and ring attachments, are transformed by setting skill into decorative pave. A signature collection that he is known for are his “Micro Bands“, where tiny gemstones of remarkably saturated color are set using a microscope, and can be collected and stacked. His other jewelry designs can be viewed at his website, www.martinkatz.com.

Martin Katz Cabochon Sapphire Ring with Pave Accent

View this post on idazzle.com: idazzle Exclusive: Martin Katz Jewelry at the 2011 Golden Globes