An Ounce of Prevention

First of all, you should try to limit the amount of dirt that your jewelry comes into contact with in the first place. I know that people think that fine jewelry equals forever, but there is a big difference between “enduring” and “indestructible”. Dirt and chemicals from everyday wear will break down precious metals and gems eventually. Please don’t wear your jewelry 24/7. Take it off, make a safe, scratch-free nest for it somewhere, and put it on when you leave the house. Think about your nicest designer article of clothing that you would wear during the day. Would you wear it while scrubbing a pot or rolling out dough? Would you wear that lifting weights or in the garden? Think about your jewelry being about the same level of tolerance for wear and tear as a fine piece of clothing, and it will last a lot longer.

Engagement rings, like this Leon Mege Pave Cushion Cut Ring, love to be clean!

The Spa Bath

Even with great care, sooner or later we notice our jewelry just doesn’t sparkle like it did straight out of the store. Newsflash: wearing jewelry in the shower does not constitute a good cleaning. Many soaps can leave a residue on gemstones. To really clean most gemstone jewelry–NOT pearls, opals, or some other delicate materials–you are going to need to immerse, soak, and maybe gently clean the underside of the gems to get them to sparkle at their full potential. There are many, many different commercial products out there: ultrasonic cleaners, steam cleaners, plastic containers with special formulas from jewelry stores, sprays and cleaning cloths. Some may be safe for your particular jewelry, some may not be–you have to read the fine print.

The best choice for cleaning most gemstone jewelry set into precious metals like silver, gold and platinum is the following tried-and-true method using simple household ingredients. Get a secure container, like a bowl or Pyrex measuring cup. Add a small squirt of very gentle dishwashing soap, like a Mrs. Meyers brand. Mix with warm water until you have some suds. Gently lower your jewelry into the cup/bowl so that it doesn’t hit other jewelry. Now soak for a while, preferably 15 minutes or more. If your jewelry is made of diamonds, rubies, or sapphires and really dirty, get a soft-bristled toothbrush, one that has broken down from actual brushing use, and very gently scrub the underside of the gems and setting. Give it another rinse in the soapy water to remove particles, then rinse well with warm water. Let it air dry on a soft cloth or paper towel. If you have a microfiber cloth for cleaning your glasses, you can use that to wipe any water spots from the surfaces. And, voila! Your jewelry will sparkle once more.

Shortcut #1: Review of PUROSOL Jewelry Cleaner

The above method, while extremely effective, also takes a little planning and time to execute. Since most of us have exactly zero extra minutes per day to do something as frivolous as cleaning jewelry, there are a couple of shortcuts I can share.

PUROSOL, a company that makes all-natural cleaners for the optics and jewelry industry, sent me a 1 oz sample of their Molecular Cleanser For Soft Stones. (I did not receive compensation for this review, nor did I promise a positive review in exchange for the 1 oz sample.) According to the label and literature, it is made of plant extracts that release dirt particles by breaking their molecular bonds. Many commercial jewelry cleaners contain chemicals, even ammonia, that can be bad to inhale or come into contact with the skin. With PUROSOL, you simply spray the solution onto the jewelry, then wipe off the surface using the microfiber cloth included in the cleaning kit. This spray, wipe and go method is very convenient, and the whole kit comes in a plastic poly bag. Because of the gentle nature of the cleaner, it is safe to use on Pearls, Amber, Coral, Emerald, Opal and other delicate gemstones that normally should NEVER come near a commercial cleaner. Of course, it’s also safe for Diamonds, Sapphires, Rubies, Garnet, Amethyst, Aquamarines and Topaz. PUROSOL also states that cleaning with their molecular cleaner will leave jewelry cleaner for longer, as the formula repels dirt. I couldn’t figure out a reliable, scientific method for testing this in real life, so we will just have to trust them on that one.

In my tests, the solution worked well for surface cleaning. Gemstone surfaces sparkled, and the metal really gleamed after the wiping. It had no discernible smell and didn’t irritate the skin at all. But on my diamond earrings, which were pretty dull from soap residue, this surface clean left them brighter, but not jewelry-showroom brilliant, even after a second application.

You can clean rings with delicate stones, like this Emerald and Diamond ring from Gemvara.com, safely with Purosol.

Shortcut #2: Review of Brilliant Restorer 1 Minute Cleaner

My own collection of jewelry is pretty diamond-heavy, so I moved on to testing another spray-on jewelry cleaner, brilliant restorer one minute diamond and jewelry cleaner. This 2 oz bottle was given to me by a jewelry retailer, and is distributed through retail jewelers throughout the country (I did not receive any compensation for this review). This cleaner is safe to use on Diamond, Garnet, Amethyst, Aquamarine, Alexandrite, Ruby, Peridot, Sapphire, Tourmaline, Topaz, Zircon, Tanzanite, and Spinel gemstones, and Gold, Platinum, Silver, Steel and Titanium metals. It is NOT for use on porous or delicate gemstones such as Opal, Emerald, Pearl, Onyx, Jade, etc. gemstones, or on blackened, antiqued or oxidized metals, or enamel. It does contain mild phosphoric acid so they advise good ventilation and to rinse your fingers/hands thoroughly after contact–not exactly gentle.

But it works very, very well for diamond jewelry, particularly jewelry that hasn’t seen a cleaning for a while. You simply spray it on, wait 10-60 seconds, then rinse with warm water for 10 seconds. I ended up with diamond jewelry that looked like it had been scrubbed. For the aformentioned diamond stud earrings, it cut through most of the soap residue, but still did not cut through everything the way that a gentle scrubbing on the underside would. Still, for a one minute clean, it was pretty amazing.

Brilliant Restorer is a great cleaning option for diamond-intensive pieces, like this C Greene Heart with Lock Pendant.

Shortcut #3: Connoiseurs Diamond Dazzle Stik

This shortcut has a great concept and packaging: the Diamond Dazzle Stik comes as a bright red wand, and the tagline of “Twist, Brush, and Dazzle!”. I received this as a free sample from the company, again with no compensation or promise of a favorable review. The company is no new-comer to the jewelry cleaning business, they’ve been around for a very long time and make a whole raft of jewelry cleaning products. The Dazzle Stik is just their most recent, and possibly most convenient, option. The cleaner, made of cleansers and polishing agents mixed with a gentle polymer, is dispensed by twisting the pen with a satisfying little click, and then you use the very soft brush end to apply the cleaner to the jewelry, rinse and dry.

I really liked that the Dazzle Stik is more than a spray. The packaging and product get high marks from me: it’s compact, and there is no liquidy solution to worry about spilling, so you can just pop it into your bag for on-the-go cleanings. It’s also incredibly easy to use. Best of all, with the brush and the additional friction you can apply gently to the undersides of gems like Diamonds, Sappphires and Rubies, it gets your jewelry almost as sparkly as the home spa method above. The Dazzle Stik did the best job on the diamond stud earrings, almost like the soak and scrub method. There are some caveats: the packaging says not to get near children or your eyes, which probably means it’s not the gentlest formula. They aren’t particularly forthcoming about what exactly is in the product, nor exactly what gems and metals are safe to use it on, even on their website.

Diamond Dazzle Stik

Bottom Line

If you have the time, the home spa method works great for a number of gems and jewelry, and will restore beautiful shine for your baubles.

If your collection of jewelry is mostly delicate gemstones or you clean your jewelry very frequently, use Purosol. Leave it on your bathroom sink for a daily dose of preventative clean.

If you have mostly diamond jewelry and don’t clean as frequently, use Brilliant Restorer for a quick power clean (also safe for Garnet, Amethyst, Aquamarine, Alexandrite, Ruby, Peridot, Sapphire, Tourmaline, Topaz, Zircon, Tanzanite, and Spinel). Not the best choice if you have sensitive skin or a delicate gem collection.

Get the Diamond Dazzle Stik and toss it in your bag, regardless of which cleaning method above you regularly use: it’s the best choice for on-the-go cleaning and the brush does a great job for a special night out where you want your ring to impress.

So go get your sparkle on.

View this post on idazzle.com: How to Clean Your Jewelry: The Definitive Guide and Review

But now it’s 14 years later, and that Marquise cut in 14kt yellow gold has snagging prongs and a certain, how shall we say, patina about it. Your love hasn’t changed, but your style definitely has, and the jeweler is saying that the setting, worn faithfully through vacations, dinner parties, desk jobs and diaper changes, needs some maintenance.

Engagement rings incorporate diamonds primarily because their beauty and durability represent a symbol of eternal love. The reality is that there can be a finite life for the metals that the diamonds are set into, due to wear and tear. But there’s another little secret: maybe style is a finite entity, too. Perhaps the ring design never really {ahem} reflected your taste to begin with. Or maybe it’s just that your style has become more defined as the years pass. At some point in your married life you might catch yourself gazing at your ring and wondering…what if?

Have a Marquise (or Pear or Oval) shape? This Danhov Halo Setting can make this cut look its elegant best. Style ME160 available from Samuel Gordon Jeweler.

Every relationship is different, but I think it can be a good thing to change your setting, or even your whole ring including the center stone, to reflect who you are. The important thing is what the ring symbolizes: you may change your ring, but the sentiment attached stays the same.

Want something more than a basic solitaire? This Annalise setting by Erica Courtney is a modern take on a feminine curved setting. Added bonus is that your diamond will look lots bigger surrounded by those accent diamonds.

First Step: Research

Once you’ve broached the subject with your significant other–highly recommended–then it’s time to do some research. Pay attention to people’s rings as you go about your daily life. If someone has gotten engaged recently, make a note of whether you like the style or not. Or check out the Top Engagement Trends or Beautiful Bezels articles on this site, there are some great designs to start your day dreaming, and lots of Jewelry Designer links to explore in our Trusted Links section.

This Nicholas James setting is sleek, sculptural and practical. Shown in Platinum with round accent diamonds, contact Nicholas James for more information.

Try It On!

Once you have a few ideas or tear sheets, GO SHOPPING! It’s kind of like the wedding dress, where you dreamed of a particular style, then you tried it on and realized it was as flattering as, well, Bjork’s Swan Dress. Just like clothes, you must see diamonds and rings in person and try them on. This is not a decision to take lightly, it’s probably the most sentimental and costly piece of jewelry you own!

On the other hand, don’t be paralyzed into indecision because you’re afraid of making a mistake: remember that wisdom and experience gleaned from already wearing your ring will help guide you to something that makes sense for your life right now. If your ring sat too high for you to wear comfortably, go low or prong-less for the next setting. Did you diamond seem too small for your finger? Try a halo of diamonds around the stone to make it appear much more significant. If your ultra-traditional setting didn’t suit your avant-garde sense of style, seek out an independent designer to do the next ring.

Bezel settings can be an amazing update for a sleepy diamond. Wendy Brandes designs these substantial bands with flawless bezels flattering the center diamond to be all-in-one engagement/wedding rings.

The Logistics

Once you find a style that makes your heart beat faster, you need an expert to help you figure out if that setting will work with your stone. Some settings will need new prongs, or a new bezel, to fit your particular stone. Sometimes the whole ring needs to be custom made around the stone and your finger size.

Want ultra-clean and modern? Completely custom-made for each diamond, this compression-set solitaire setting by Steven Kretchmer Designs holds the diamond with 12,000 pounds per square inch of pressure. Setting alone starts at around $2000 Retail, Avail at Lux Bond and Green.

At some point in the process, there will come a time when you will have to leave your diamond with the designer or jeweler to make a wax mold or to re-set it. Here’s a refresher of my tips for leaving your ring or stone with a jeweler (for an in-depth article about leaving your jewelry for repair or appraisal, click here):

1. Bring in your appraisal or diamond lab report, if you have one, to the jeweler.
2. Look at the stone with the jeweler, under magnification, and decide together how to identify the stone: most diamonds will have some distinguishing characteristic to identify under 10 power magnification.
3. Discuss a value that you and the jeweler are both comfortable with for the diamond or ring to be insured while at the jeweler.
4. Get that value in writing, along with a description of the specific work to be done, on a repair form that you sign.
5. When you go back to pick the ring up, have the jeweler help you identify your diamond again.

Looking for a ring that doesn't have an Engagement Ring vibe? This Milky Way ring by Nina Basharova makes a beautiful statement whether on the right or left hand, and can be totally customized to your diamond. Avail from Manika Jewelry.

Bottom Line

You don’t need to feel guilty or bad about changing your setting: you should feel nothing but joy when you look at the ring on your finger! We hope this information helps start you on the path to a new, gorgeous setting if you need to change your ring for any reason. If you need help finding your ring, drop me a line here and I can set you up with an amazing retailer or designer in your area.

If you're looking for unusual, this Lotus setting from Gemvara has amazing details. In 18kt Yellow Gold with round accent diamonds, $9102 with a 1.02 ct Round Diamond in center.

View this post on idazzle.com: How to Reset Your Engagement Ring (and Why It’s Okay to Change Your Mind)

Click on the image to be linked to the idazzle Diamond Prices iPhone App!

Diamond Prices

We have prices for 4 diamond shapes, 7 carat weight sizes, 7 colors, 7 clarities, and 4 cut grades. We have carefully researched this database to be within competitive range of the best online diamond prices. If you pay our recommended price at a local jewelry store, you are getting a great deal.

Diamond 4C’s Information

You can also access our advice and information on diamond factors that influence price. We tell you what quality range to stay within so you end up with a gorgeous diamond, without overpaying for factors that aren’t essential.

Find a Local Jeweler

If you are interested in buying a diamond at the idazzle Price, but don’t know a jeweler in your area, you can send us a request from the idazzle Diamond Prices App. We are building a database of pre-screened, reputable jewelers who are interested in giving you the best service and the best value!

idazzle wants you to make the best diamond decision at a local jeweler! Check it out and tell me what you think…

View this post on idazzle.com: idazzle Diamond Prices iPhone App Launches!

Every diamond sparkles; no one can just look at a diamond and tell you the exact origin. So how do you make sure that the symbol of your love hasn’t hurt anyone else in its journey?

1.50 Ct. Asscher Cut F, VS2 Diamond from Brilliant Earth $11,210 Retail

What is the Kimberly Process?

The Kimberly Process is a UN-mandated system, and was developed by the diamond industry, NGO’s and interested governments in 2000 as a way to track and certify rough diamond origins. There are approximately 74 countries represented, with participating members adhering to strict requirements to import or export only to other members. The diamond industry states that over 99% of diamonds entering the market now (post Kimberly Process) are certified to be from conflict-free sources.

How the Kimberly Process works.

Here is a rundown of how the Kimberly Process and its System of Warranties works to keep conflict diamonds out of the market:
1. Mining: After mining, diamonds are transported to the Government Diamond Office.
2. Export: The source of the diamonds is checked to be conflict-free, then the diamonds are sealed into a tamper-resistant package, and assigned a Government-generated Kimberly Process certificate with a unique serial number.
3. Import: The importing government customs office checks the certificate and seal. If the seal is broken or the Kimberly Certificate is tampered with in any way, the package is turned back or impounded in customs.
4. Cutting/Manufacturing/Trading: Once a diamond has been legitimately exported and imported into a member country, it can be cut and then set into finished jewelry. Each time the diamond changes hands, a warranty must be provided on each invoice stating that the diamond is from a certified non-conflict source. Manufacturers are required to audit these records and keep them for 5 years minimum. Click here to see an example of an invoice with a warranty.
5. Retail: The onus is on the retail jeweler to ensure that the diamonds they stock are conflict-free. The retailers are provided a warranty on their invoices from suppliers that the diamonds are from conflict-free sources. The retailers are required to audit their invoices and keep records for 5 years. The System of Warranties does NOT require that the customer receive a warranty on their receipt that the diamond they purchase is from a conflict-free source. But with the warranties passing from mine to suppliers to retailers, and with accountability to auditing, it is hoped that this system results in a conflict-free diamond for the customer.

Questions for your jeweler:

Any retailer or jeweler can claim their diamonds are conflict-free. But here’s what you should ask:
Can I see a copy of your store’s Conflict Diamond Policy?

Do you have diamonds that are certified from Canada or sources other than Africa?

Canadian Polar Bear Diamond Image Showing Inscription

If in serious doubt, buy Canadian or Estate / Antique.

Canadian diamonds weren’t discovered and mined until very recently, and the government has tried to respect and protect the indigenous people and the sensitive environments in the mine areas as much as possible. Most diamonds from Canadian sources have certificates and inscription numbers etched into their girdles to mark their provenance. Some brand names are Artic Fox, Polar Bear, Canadian Ice, etc. A couple of mines, Diavik and Ekati, are also known for their especially strict environmental standards, so that is another bonus.

Another option is buy an estate or antique diamond, which could always be set into a new mounting. You can be pretty assured that a diamond mined and cut prior to the 1980′s wasn’t part of the political unrest in Africa. It’s recycling taken to a higher level.

So does the Kimberly Process work?

Hmmm. I am very glad that it exists and it most definitely has prevented a significant number of diamonds from falling into the wrong hands. Does it do enough? NGO’s such as Global Witness say that the KP doesn’t go far enough to make the diamond market 100% conflict-free. Ultimately it is up to the consumer to demand that the diamonds they buy come from sources where diamonds do not endanger people’s lives or fund terror groups.

We are headed the right direction. Let’s be conscious, ask questions and be accountable as retailers and consumers.

View this post on idazzle.com: How To Buy a Conflict-Free Diamond

Cushion Diamond in Pave Setting from Mednikow Jewelers in Memphis and Atlanta

Here’s how to find a great, reputable jeweler in your area:

Ask your family, friends, and colleagues.

This can often be a good place to start. You should still apply the following tips and questions to their suggestion to make sure the recommendation is very qualified.

Search for key jewelry industry affiliations like AGS or JVC.

Once you have a recommendation, or if you still need a couple of names, there are some jewelry industry organizations that can be a good screening criteria. One of the first things I look for is membership in the American Gem Society. It’s a jewelry trade organization that requires high levels of product knowledge, and very strict ethical standards regarding representation and pricing. Jewelers who are members must be tested every year to maintain their membership. Another organization is the Jeweler’s Vigilance Committee, or JVC. This non-profit helps jewelers maintain high ethical standards by keeping their members up-to-date on all the legal compliance rules within the jewelry industry. JVC members pay dues and agree to uphold the ethics established through their own business practices. You can also contact JVC to find out if a jeweler has had a complaint lodged against them. Not all reputable jewelers are members of these orgs, nor does membership automatically guarantee a great customer experience, but it’s a good place to start.

Check for an online presence.

Once you have a couple of potential names, google or bing them. Some local jewelers are not terribly tech-savvy, but I prefer companies that have at least a decent online presence for a couple of reasons. First, it shows a certain commitment to innovation that I think is indicative of how they run their business in general. And second, if they are online they are one click away from any of their on-line competitors, and hopefully understand competitive pricing of diamonds and other jewelry basics that consumers are shopping for online. If they have some sort of verbage on their homepage or “About Me” that says they are committed to competitive pricing, so much the better. Once you have found their website, you can see what designers and jewelry lines they carry, and if their hours and location will work for you.

Now some questions for them…

Do they have a Certified or Graduate Gemologist on staff? A bench jeweler on-site for repairs? On-site jewelry appraiser? These criteria can predict a higher level of service for the customer. A GIA-educated salesperson (with a certificate from the Gemological Institute of America) can give you the best product knowledge and help you with your purchase. A bench jeweler located in the store can set, size, or repair most jewelry without it having to leave the store, and sometimes they can do it while you wait. An appraiser on staff can help assign a replacement value to your own jewelry or answer detailed product questions you might have.

How competitive is their pricing?

When I do my screening for my Local Jeweler recommendations, I will call potential jewelers to ask them about a certain size and quality of GIA or AGS-certified diamond. I do a lot of research online, so I know competitive pricing for online merchants and I feel that physical jewelers should be within about 15% of online diamond pricing. If they are much over that, it’s just not competitive for consumers and I move on. Physical jewelers have some good reasons to charge a little more for their diamonds: they keep some diamonds in stock vs. the feeds (lists) of diamonds that online loose diamond suppliers–most online retailers don’t actually have any diamonds in house. Carrying that inventory is capital-intensive for the physical jeweler. Good, reputable physical jewelers also have an educated staff to show you those actual diamonds and explain the quality and value differences to you. They can also help you select the best setting, and size and set it all for you. That’s a lot of overhead compared to lean online operations. For a recent post about on-line versus off-line mark ups, click here.

Once you have a couple of names, head in to the store.

Making an appointment isn’t a necessity, but it might be more efficient. A good jeweler will ask some key questions and really listen to what you’re looking for, and then can do some research before you come in. Set aside some time to really look around and talk to the salesperson. This is about a relationship. If you feel rushed, or feel like they have an agenda to stick something down your throat that is NOT what you are looking for, MOVE ON. You should be able to think things over and take your time making a decision. You should feel appreciated, taken care of, listened to, and leave feeling that you got a great VALUE. If there is something in your gut that doesn’t feel right, trust yourself and your instincts. There are lots of great jewelers out there; you will find one.

Bottom Line:

Dollar for dollar, sometimes the best value can be found at a local independent jeweler. You get the value of their knowledge and experience firsthand. The best jewelers are committed to their community, and often support important local philanthropic causes. They are nice people trying to make a living in a challenging industry, and truly want you to get the best quality and value. I have had opportunities to work with some great jewelers and have assembled a list of qualified referrals in a number of metro areas in the country. I am happy to pass along my vetted names of jewelers to those who need it. Submit a request for me on my Local Jewelers tab, and I would be happy to recommend someone in your area. Happy (Local) Shopping!

View this post on idazzle.com: How To Find a Reputable Local Jeweler You Can Trust

Here’s what you should look for and ask about when buying a colored gemstone:

Heated or Treated?

Almost every type of colored gemstone has some potential for treatment. Some, such as sapphires, are heated to remove internal inclusions and improve their color. Others, like Emeralds, have materials such as oil or resin filled into fissures within the stone to improve their appearance. For a complete graph of gemstones, their potential treatments and the relative permanence of those treatments, click here.

It is quite rare for gemstones to have no treatment at all, and this will increase the value tremendously, so if a retailer or jeweler tells you that something is untreated, your next statement should be “prove it”! There should be some sort of documentation from an accredited gem lab to show that the gem is untreated (see the next point).

Sapphire and Diamond Ring in Platinum by Mark Patterson, from VonBargens.com

Show Me the Paperwork!

A gemstone should have some documentation, called a certificate, from an accredited gem lab if it is a larger carat weight (over 2.50 or 3 carats in the case of Sapphires, Rubies or Emeralds), is rare in some way, and ESPECIALLY if untreated/unheated. In general, a lab report for a colored gemstone will document the color, transparency, shape, cut, dimensions, carat weight and a photo of the gem. If you are talking about a major purchase, $10,000 or more, you better have some independent documentation about the gemstone’s specs. Don’t accept a retailer’s word for it: get it in writing and have them explain it to you.

In the recent past, there were several gem labs who did independent analysis on colored gemstones: AGTA’s GTC (American Gem Trade Association’s Gemological Testing Center), GIA (Gemological Institute of America), and Gubelin Gemmological Laboratory. Unfortunately, AGTA closed its Gemological Testing Center on July 29, 2009. This is a big loss for the jewelry industry, as AGTA’s lab was highly regarded for their expertise and integrity. GIA is a respected source for colored gemstone lab reports, which document the color and cut details, plus their origin (if discernible) and treatments (or lack thereof). GIA also has a great colored gemstone tutorial here. Gubelin is a little less familiar to US clients, but sources I checked with said that they trust their lab reports as well. If you purchase a gemstone with paperwork from these labs in particular, you have something concrete you can use to compare value.

22.66 ct Unheated Kashmir Sapphire Sold at Auction for $3.1 Million

The Very Important Final Consideration: I.T.C.S. (It’s the Color, Stupid!)

Much like Bill Clinton’s famous “it’s the economy, stupid!” note on the wall during his 1992 election campaign, it’s important to stay focused on the most critical element: the color. Sure, there is clarity to consider (the relative freedom from inclusions), and how well the gem is faceted. There are also the technical elements of hue (the color), tone (how light or dark the gem is), and saturation (the intensity of the color from weak to vivid) of the color itself.

But there is a more visceral test to conduct with your GUT. Does the color catch your eye from a distance? Does it appear to be lit from within? In the case of a deep blue sapphire, can you get lost in its velvety cobalt depths? Does it glitter, snap, twinkle? Does it make your heart beat faster, make your palms sweat a little? Then you’ve got your gemstone.

8.62 ct Natural Paraiba Tourmaline, AGTA Spectrum Awards

The perfect setting.

Unless you’re a collector buying a loose specimen, you need to consider the setting. Does the setting make a good foil for the gemstone? Does it seem proportioned and pleasing in shape and size? It should enhance the color, such as nice white diamonds providing some contrast to the colored stone. The metal color should also enhance the color of the gem. Yellow gold usually looks good with warm-colored gems like Rubies and Emeralds, while Sapphires can look good with cool white metals (white gold or platinum) OR yellow gold, depending on the design. Sometimes the actual head that holds the colored gem will be a different metal than the metal holding the diamonds or the band of the ring. Pastel-colored gems might look best with white metals, but it depends on the design. Some designers do a great job with interesting combos of different gem and metal colors.

Green Garnet with Tsavorite and Diamond Ring in 18kt White by Gumuchian Fils, $1829 from Portero.com

Bottom Line:

Maybe even more than an engagement ring, a wise gemstone purchase depends on finding a reputable physical jeweler in your area where you can compare and evaluate. This is a very hard thing to buy online or over the phone. You really need to see it. If you need help finding a local jeweler who specializes in colored gemstones, click here to send me a note about what you’re looking for and where you’re located (or leave a comment with your email below). I will do my best to help recommend someone in your area.

View this post on idazzle.com: How to Buy a Colored Gemstone

Think about your budget.

In the age of “Real Housewives” and other conspicuous consumption, the reality of what an engagement ring should cost can get lost in the hype. Spend what you can afford, it’s not worth going into major debt for.

Learn about the 4 C’s.

Visit my bottom-line rundown of diamond quality characteristics here. You can always drill down deeper if you need to.

Narrow some of your decisions before looking on- or off-line.

If you can make some basic decisions before you start shopping, like whether you’re looking for Princess and/or Asscher, or “Ideal” cut versus “Good”, it will help you when you research online.

Diamond Shapes From Amazon.com Loose Diamond Interface

Consider the design of the ring itself.

This is a whole ‘nother post. But the bare basics to consider are: color of metal (white vs yellow); simple or “designer” style; how active the recipient’s lifestyle is (how best to set the diamond so it stays safe); how traditional the recipient is (which might tell you to go with a round brilliant solitaire style); and is it possible to get their finger size? If you can recruit one of her friends to give you some insight, this is great. Or casually stroll through a jewelry store while shopping one weekend. Some couples shop together, but there is something very romantic about pulling this off as a total surprise.

Go shopping–online!

I highly recommend going to a couple of reputable online sites to search their diamond listings to determine what the online price range is. I have researched some online diamond companies for previous posts, and some appear to be very reputable. These are Blue Nile, Amazon.com, James Allen, Whiteflash, Mondera, Diamond.com, Costco.com, and Union Diamond. These sites have a large selection of GIA and AGS certified diamonds (I would almost say TOO large, the search results can be overwhelming), very competitive prices, and good education information on the sites to get informed. Print out your top picks so you know price ranges and details before you go into a physical store.

Understand the price difference between an online retailer and a physical jeweler.

I did a post recently regarding relative mark-ups and margins, click here to read. The basics that you need to know are that you will likely pay about 15% more than the most competitive online prices (like from a Blue Nile or Amazon.com) at a physical local jeweler. There are some good reasons for this. The jeweler is sitting down with you and showing you diamonds from their inventory, educating you one-on-one versus the one-to-many that online retailers are able to do. How many shopping experiences can you think of where the salesperson sits down with you and spends up to hours educating you about your purchase? There is potentially a lot of overhead cutting into their profit: staff and training, physical inventory and carrying costs, and they don’t do the volume that the online merchants do. In theory, there’s a lot of value to shopping at a jewelry store: you get much more educated in person, you can compare diamonds to find the exact right one for your budget, you can have the ring set, sized and serviced right in the store (most online retailers don’t offer a sizing service). You may get a warranty. And you now have a relationship with someone who can clean and service the ring, and help you with future jewelry purchases.

Choose a REPUTABLE local jeweler.

This is probably the most important decision. I like local independents, who are fixtures in their community, versus national chains like Zales or Helzburgs. (There are exceptions to that, like Ben Bridge Jewelers, which is a regional chain that operates more like an Independent.) Don’t know of any really highly regarded jewelers in your hometown? Ask friends, relatives, and co-workers about good experiences they have had, that’s a good place to start. If you still aren’t sure after asking around (or it’s a total secret and you can’t ask), I recommend doing a search for a jeweler who is a member of the American Gem Society, a jewelry trade organization that requires high levels of product knowledge, and very strict ethical standards regarding representation and pricing (click here to do a search). You can also visit my Local Jewelers page and drop me a line. I have been building a list of reputable jewelers for years, and may have someone I can recommend in your area.

Make sure you know the retailer’s return policy.

Industry standard return policy is 30 days, unworn in perfect condition WITH all original documents and certificates. Just in case.

Buy a diamond with a diamond “certificate” (lab grading report) from a reputable grading lab.

I personally prefer GIA and AGS; some other well-known labs are EGL, IGI, and HRD. Especially when you get into ¾ carat and over, minor differences in quality make an increasing impact on price. While a certificate is not an ironclad guarantee, it is one of the most proven ways to make sure that you are getting what you pay for.

At the jeweler, look at several diamonds side-by-side.

It’s amazing what you can learn by seeing diamonds of varying qualities compared in person. Many of the quality characteristics that affect a diamond’s value are very subtle, and only by comparison will you see the nuances that will help you decide that a particular diamond is the one for you. Also, you may find that you are not as sensitive–or more sensitive–to a quality characteristic that you thought was really important. I’ve seen people who are fixated on a colorless diamond realize they can’t tell the difference between the “E” and the “I”, and save some money.

Don’t lose sight of the big picture.

Related to the above point, while learning about diamond quality, sometimes it is easy to get distracted by one factor. Remember that a balance of all 4 factors will give you the best value, and there are lots of quality combinations that result in a gorgeous diamond. Personally, I would choose a diamond that is very well-cut, either Ideal or near-Ideal, that is F-H color and VS to SI2 clarity, since diamonds with these ranges will appear exceptionally brilliant and don’t have eye-visible color or flaws.

Make sure you compare the diamond you end up buying with the certificate.

Look at the diamond under 10x magnification, and make sure that the jeweler explains all of the factors and helps you locate the identifying inclusions. This will also prove helpful later if you need to leave your diamond with a jeweler you don’t know—you can always identify it.

Watch out for cheesy high-pressure sales tactics.

Beware of “this price is only good for today” phrases. Any legitimate jeweler will let you think over such an important purchasing decision. Their diamond and their offer should sound better after thinking things over! If you hear things like the above phrase, or “below wholesale”, this is a good indication that you need to go back to the “Find a reputable jeweler” point and start over.

Get an appraisal for the finished ring.

The diamond’s lab report (certificate) is a document that details the quality of the center diamond, but it does not give a value. An appraisal gives the replacement cost of the diamond and the mounting. I highly recommend that you list this important purchase on a separate rider attached to your regular homeowner’s insurance policy. The Jeweler should provide you with an appraisal at no charge.

Bottom Line: Don’t Be Afraid, Just Be Prepared!

If you choose a good jeweler, it might even be FUN! Anything else to add? If you want to buy a diamond online, I’ve done a list of tips for that, click here.

View this post on idazzle.com: Valuable Tips for Buying a Diamond From a Jewelry Store

Think about your budget.

In the age of “Real Housewives” and other conspicuous consumption, the reality of what an engagement ring should cost can get lost in the hype. Spend what you can afford, it’s not worth going into major debt for.

Learn about the 4 C’s.

Visit my bottom-line rundown of diamond quality characteristics here. You can always drill down deeper if you need to.

Buy a diamond with a diamond “certificate” (lab grading report) from a reputable grading lab

I personally prefer GIA and AGS; some other well-known labs are EGL, IGI, and HRD. Especially when you get into ¾ carat and over, minor differences in quality make an increasing impact on price. While a certificate is not an ironclad guarantee, it is one of the most proven ways to make sure that you are getting what you pay for.

Decide on Diamond Shape before shopping.

If you don’t at least narrow some of the factors, like shape, before you do some diamond searches, your head will spin around when you see the sheer numbers of results. Decide whether you’re looking for Princess and/or Asscher, or Round and/or Cushion.

Diamond Shapes From Amazon.com Loose Diamond Interface

Consider the design of the ring itself.

This is a whole ‘nother post. But the bare basics to consider are: color of metal (white vs yellow); simple or “designer” style; how active the recipient’s lifestyle is (how best to set the diamond so it stays safe); how traditional the recipient is (which might tell you to go with a round brilliant solitaire style); and is it possible to get their finger size? If you can recruit one of her friends to give you some insight, this is great. Or casually stroll through a jewelry store while shopping one weekend. Some couples shop together, but there is something very romantic about pulling this off as a total surprise.

Pave Set Diamond Engagement Ring from Blue Nile

Go shopping–at an actual store.

I highly recommend going to at least a couple of independent jewelers (not mall stores or national chains) in your area to physically look at some rings and diamonds. Just like anything, what you THINK you are going to like based on what you’ve seen online may be very different than what you ACTUALLY like in person. Plus, you can get a good idea of what the cost of the diamond and ring would be at a store near you. You might find that it’s the best value overall (factoring in the service) after comparing online.

Go to a reputable online diamond retailer.

I have researched some online diamond companies for previous posts, and some appear to be very reputable. These are Blue Nile, Amazon.com, James Allen, Whiteflash, Mondera, Diamond.com, Costco.com, and Union Diamond. Look at the “About” sections on the seller’s website and see how many consumer-trust organizations they are affiliated with. If you’re really concerned, you can check to see if they are members in good standing with those orgs. While there are lots of great smaller players, you may be taking a big chance on an expensive, relatively blind purchase from an “anonymous” retailer. Trust your gut, and if something doesn’t seem right, walk away.

Make use of the online retailer’s 800#

Buying a diamond online is easy, right? You just move the sliders to the desired quality range and you find the best value from the results and buy it. Hahahaha! When you do a search for a specific quality/size of diamond in the online databases from many online retailers you can get literally THOUSANDS of results. I find it mind-boggling trying to sort and evaluate listings–and I’m a Gemologist! (To see my process for wading through 1 carat round loose offerings, click here, and I also did it recently for .50 to .75 carat rounds.) One way to wade through to find the best diamond is to speak to a representative. Keep in mind that some sellers like Blue Nile and Amazon don’t actually stock the diamonds, so they can’t physically pull it from the safe and tell you about it. But they can at least go through the fine print details like girdle thickness and pavilion depth to help a little bit. A nice selling point for James Allen is the fact that they OWN some of their diamond listings (versus just having real-time feeds or lists of diamonds), plus they have amazing imaging of their loose diamonds.

Make sure you know the retailer’s return policy

Industry standard return policy is 30 days, unworn in perfect condition WITH all original documents and certificates. Just in case you hate it, she hates it, or something just doesn’t work out.

Don’t lose sight of the big picture.

While learning about diamond quality, sometimes it is easy to get distracted by one factor. Remember that a balance of all 4 factors will give you the best value, and there are lots of quality combinations that result in a gorgeous diamond. Personally, I would choose a diamond that is very well-cut, either Ideal or near-Ideal, that is F-H color and VS to SI2 clarity, since diamonds with these ranges will appear exceptionally brilliant and don’t have eye-visible color or flaws. Everyone has different priorities, so if clarity is your thing, then go for a smaller stone that is VVS.

Get an appraisal for the finished ring

Most reputable online retailers have this part figured out. The diamond’s certificate only outlines the characteristics of the diamond, not a replacement value for insurance purposes. It’s inconvenient to have to take it somewhere to get it appraised elsewhere, but could be interesting to see what value an Independent Appraiser might attach to it. I highly recommend that you list this important purchase on a separate rider attached to your regular homeowner’s insurance policy.

Bottom Line: Don’t Be Afraid, Just Be Prepared!

Anything else to add? I’ll do a separate post on buying diamonds from a physical retailer.

View this post on idazzle.com: Valuable Tips for Buying a Diamond Online

While reviewing a couple of sites for selling jewelry (see my post here), I ran across a statement on the I Do Now I Don’t.com site that got me thinking. In the founder’s story, he tells about going back to the jeweler he bought the ring from to sell it back after his engagement didn’t work out. He said that he was shocked and appalled at the amount they offered him, about 1/3 of the retail price he had recently paid. I know that he’s not making that part up: that is about what a retail jeweler would offer someone as a cash price for a piece of jewelry from a customer needing to sell. He states that the reason he was offered so little is that the true cost of the item for the jeweler was 1/3 to 1/2 of the retail, and that the jeweler made a 2-3 time mark-up on the cost of the ring. There are a couple of reasons why the jeweler probably offered him so much less than retail (which I outline here), but their cost in that ring was probably considerably higher than the offer amount, for reasons I outline below.

Pave Set Engagement Ring From James Allen

So is it true that jewelers make 100-200% mark-ups on the jewelry they sell? The accurate answer is…it depends.

It’s possible that there are a handful of jewelers out there in pockets of the US that are still making the circa 1980′s profits of marking something up 3 times what they paid for it. But their customers better not have Internet access! Since the mid-1990′s and the advent of real-time diamond pricing online, diamond margins have steadily been declining. By selling diamonds with laboratory certificates from reputable grading labs like GIA and AGS that outline the diamond’s 4 main components of quality (carat weight, color, clarity and cut grade), the Internet makes shopping for diamonds, in theory at least, relatively transparent. Mainly due to the Internet, physical jewelers have been forced to reduce their profit margins on their loose diamonds as well.

Internet Diamond Prices

Most competitively-priced diamond retailers online have margins (profit divided by price) of around 8-12% on their loose diamonds. So on a $10,000 loose diamond, the retailer is likely making a gross profit of about $800-1200 for that purchase. Online retailers have relatively low overhead, since many (like Blue Nile) do not actually stock their substantial diamond lists in-house. The diamonds come from multiple suppliers, and those suppliers provide a real-time feed of available diamonds to the retailer. When you select a diamond from a Blue Nile or Amazon.com loose diamond list, that diamond is shipped from the supplier to the retailer, then inspected and–if you selected a setting–set into the mounting, inspected again, boxed and shipped to you. It’s an substantial advantage, capital-wise, for these online retailers to never have to carry these diamonds in-house. If they bought them outright, they could likely negotiate slightly better costs on the diamonds, but it ties up enormous amounts of cash until they sell.

Physical Retail Diamond Prices

If you compare this to a physical independent jeweler, these jewelers have a different diamond merchandising strategy. It can vary a great deal from jeweler to jeweler, but they typically have a margin of around 20-35% on their loose diamonds, so on a $10,000 diamond, they are making a gross margin of roughly $2000 to $3500. Really savvy, competitive physical jewelers are often within about 15% of the final price of an online diamond. They can come close to online retailers, but it’s hard to beat those prices for a couple of reasons. They don’t do the volume that the online merchants do, and if a customer is in the store, customers want to SEE the diamond to make a decision. So most physical jewelers buy a few diamonds to keep their suppliers happy and negotiate great cost prices on some stones, and carry some others on memorandum, which basically means consignment from their suppliers. Memo goods give jewelers more selection, and they don’t have to pay for them until they sell them, but the cost won’t be as competitive as the diamonds they buy outright. Plus there is a lot of overhead cutting into the profit: the salesperson who shows you diamonds has to get paid, rent or mortgage on the store itself, and the capital costs of all the other inventory. But you might make the best decision by seeing those diamonds in person.

How Much Did That Setting Cost?

The setting for the rings does allow for some profit for both on-line and off-line retailers. If we’re talking about a simple platinum solitaire setting with a retail of about $550, the cost to the retailer is probably around $275 to $300. But they also have to cover the costs of setting and sizing the ring out of that profit (plus their regular overhead), since the diamond profit might not allow for that. If you choose a designer setting with lots of diamonds and side gems, then the mark-up percentage is likely the same. But hey, this is what makes it a business, no one said it’s a philanthropy!

So, it is HIGHLY unlikely that your on- or off-line jeweler is making a killing on your engagement ring.

And, the good news for consumers is that due to the economy right now, and the continued pressure of competition, diamond prices have gone down by approximately 15% in the last 12 months. It’s pretty remarkable, and actually a good time to buy. So go out there and shop like an informed consumer!

View this post on idazzle.com: The Truth About Engagement Ring Mark Ups

Here’s what you should know:

1. Choose a reputable jeweler for the repair.  Ask around for a glowing recommendation from friends, family, and people you trust.  If you really don’t know a local jeweler, check out the American Gem Society websitefor a referral.  The AGS is a jewelry non-profit trade organization that was founded to promote high ethical standards among jewelers, and member jewelers have to subscribe to rigorous standards and be tested each year on their knowledge and service.  There are AGS Certified Jewelers in most markets in the US.
2. Insist that they use a Take-In Form, and get your own copy/receipt.  The actual form will vary from jeweler to jeweler, but all should have the same basic information: your contact info; a description of the item; a precise description of the work to be done; an estimate for the cost of the repair; and A REPLACEMENT VALUE FOR THE JEWELRY ITEM that you both agree on.  This information protects all parties.  
3. Get a good faith estimate on the repair work.  Writing “Fix” on the repair envelope does not count as a good repair description.  If your diamond fell out and you need your ring sized, then the description of the work should read something like “reset enclosed clear stone, re-tip 3 prongs, and size up to a size 6+”.  You should get some sort of estimate, even if it’s a ballpark figure, in writing on your receipt.  Or if it’s very elaborate, you can ask that they call you with an exact figure before they proceed with the work.  Most jewelers will do a free estimate, so if you decide not to go ahead, there should be no charge to you (there are exceptions to that, especially if they have to ship it somewhere to get the estimate). 
4. Get a complete description of your jewelry on the Take-In Form.  Don’t be offended if the jeweler uses terms like “1 green square cut center stone with 6 clear accent stones in yellow colored mounting stamped 18k”.  You may know that this is your Aunt Harriet’s heirloom Colombian Emerald ring, but the jeweler doesn’t probably have the time or lab equipment necessary at take-in to determine the exact mineral content of the gems you are leaving.  Experienced professional jewelers usually use general color terms to describe it (if they describe it as an Emerald, and it turns out to be glass, they don’t want to be liable for replacing the essentially worthless glass with a $10,000 emerald).  But the color, size, shape and number of gems should be noted along with metal stamps, engravings, and any other distinguishing marks.
5. Have the jeweler show you specific characteristics of your jewelry so that you can identify it when you get it back.  The jeweler can map out your diamond’s inclusions (or lack of) so that you can both check them when you get it back.  They can show you your sapphire next to one in their showcase to accurately describe the color.  The point is for you to BOTH scrutinize your jewelry so that you know what to look for when you get it back. 
6. Agree on a replacement value.  This is part of the take-in form and a good jeweler will want that filled in.  It limits their liability, too, in case there would be a loss.  Take in an appraisal if you have one, or a receipt.  Even if the value is out of date, it’s a good starting point for the discussion.  If you really have no idea, then they can show you items they have in stock most similar to your jewelry to figure out a value.  Make sure you agree and sign off on it.
7. Trust your gut.  Make sure you feel confortable with the store and salesperson before you walk out of the store.  If something doesn’t feel right, or the jeweler doesn’t follow the above points, take your jewelry and walk away.

I hope this information is useful and helps to put your mind at ease when you leave your precious jewelry for repair!

Comment if you have any other suggestions or horror stories–we can all learn from them!

Example of Jewelry Repair Take In Form

View this post on idazzle.com: What’s Trust Got to Do With It? A Jewelry Repair Tutorial