But now it’s 14 years later, and that Marquise cut in 14kt yellow gold has snagging prongs and a certain, how shall we say, patina about it. Your love hasn’t changed, but your style definitely has, and the jeweler is saying that the setting, worn faithfully through vacations, dinner parties, desk jobs and diaper changes, needs some maintenance.

Engagement rings incorporate diamonds primarily because their beauty and durability represent a symbol of eternal love. The reality is that there can be a finite life for the metals that the diamonds are set into, due to wear and tear. But there’s another little secret: maybe style is a finite entity, too. Perhaps the ring design never really {ahem} reflected your taste to begin with. Or maybe it’s just that your style has become more defined as the years pass. At some point in your married life you might catch yourself gazing at your ring and wondering…what if?

Have a Marquise (or Pear or Oval) shape? This Danhov Halo Setting can make this cut look its elegant best. Style ME160 available from Samuel Gordon Jeweler.

Every relationship is different, but I think it can be a good thing to change your setting, or even your whole ring including the center stone, to reflect who you are. The important thing is what the ring symbolizes: you may change your ring, but the sentiment attached stays the same.

Want something more than a basic solitaire? This Annalise setting by Erica Courtney is a modern take on a feminine curved setting. Added bonus is that your diamond will look lots bigger surrounded by those accent diamonds.

First Step: Research

Once you’ve broached the subject with your significant other–highly recommended–then it’s time to do some research. Pay attention to people’s rings as you go about your daily life. If someone has gotten engaged recently, make a note of whether you like the style or not. Or check out the Top Engagement Trends or Beautiful Bezels articles on this site, there are some great designs to start your day dreaming, and lots of Jewelry Designer links to explore in our Trusted Links section.

This Nicholas James setting is sleek, sculptural and practical. Shown in Platinum with round accent diamonds, contact Nicholas James for more information.

Try It On!

Once you have a few ideas or tear sheets, GO SHOPPING! It’s kind of like the wedding dress, where you dreamed of a particular style, then you tried it on and realized it was as flattering as, well, Bjork’s Swan Dress. Just like clothes, you must see diamonds and rings in person and try them on. This is not a decision to take lightly, it’s probably the most sentimental and costly piece of jewelry you own!

On the other hand, don’t be paralyzed into indecision because you’re afraid of making a mistake: remember that wisdom and experience gleaned from already wearing your ring will help guide you to something that makes sense for your life right now. If your ring sat too high for you to wear comfortably, go low or prong-less for the next setting. Did you diamond seem too small for your finger? Try a halo of diamonds around the stone to make it appear much more significant. If your ultra-traditional setting didn’t suit your avant-garde sense of style, seek out an independent designer to do the next ring.

Bezel settings can be an amazing update for a sleepy diamond. Wendy Brandes designs these substantial bands with flawless bezels flattering the center diamond to be all-in-one engagement/wedding rings.

The Logistics

Once you find a style that makes your heart beat faster, you need an expert to help you figure out if that setting will work with your stone. Some settings will need new prongs, or a new bezel, to fit your particular stone. Sometimes the whole ring needs to be custom made around the stone and your finger size.

Want ultra-clean and modern? Completely custom-made for each diamond, this compression-set solitaire setting by Steven Kretchmer Designs holds the diamond with 12,000 pounds per square inch of pressure. Setting alone starts at around $2000 Retail, Avail at Lux Bond and Green.

At some point in the process, there will come a time when you will have to leave your diamond with the designer or jeweler to make a wax mold or to re-set it. Here’s a refresher of my tips for leaving your ring or stone with a jeweler (for an in-depth article about leaving your jewelry for repair or appraisal, click here):

1. Bring in your appraisal or diamond lab report, if you have one, to the jeweler.
2. Look at the stone with the jeweler, under magnification, and decide together how to identify the stone: most diamonds will have some distinguishing characteristic to identify under 10 power magnification.
3. Discuss a value that you and the jeweler are both comfortable with for the diamond or ring to be insured while at the jeweler.
4. Get that value in writing, along with a description of the specific work to be done, on a repair form that you sign.
5. When you go back to pick the ring up, have the jeweler help you identify your diamond again.

Looking for a ring that doesn't have an Engagement Ring vibe? This Milky Way ring by Nina Basharova makes a beautiful statement whether on the right or left hand, and can be totally customized to your diamond. Avail from Manika Jewelry.

Bottom Line

You don’t need to feel guilty or bad about changing your setting: you should feel nothing but joy when you look at the ring on your finger! We hope this information helps start you on the path to a new, gorgeous setting if you need to change your ring for any reason. If you need help finding your ring, drop me a line here and I can set you up with an amazing retailer or designer in your area.

If you're looking for unusual, this Lotus setting from Gemvara has amazing details. In 18kt Yellow Gold with round accent diamonds, $9102 with a 1.02 ct Round Diamond in center.

View this post on idazzle.com: How to Reset Your Engagement Ring (and Why It’s Okay to Change Your Mind)

I first stumbled upon Leon Mege and his custom platinum ring designs online. And even from images online, I could tell that his craft was at an entirely different level than most of the rest of the jewelry business.

Cushion Cut in Platinum Solitaire Setting by Leon Mege, love those double claw prongs!

The Jewelry

To say that Leon Mege makes rings would be akin to saying that Rembrandt made paintings. He can make a ring for a ridiculous-size center diamond, or make an exceptional setting for a .75 carat if you want. If he does make something for you, no one in your circle is going to have a ring remotely in the same league. Particularly if you are looking for an Asscher cut, Cushion cut, or a Halo setting, I can truly say “nobody does it better”.

The designs themselves are exceptional: a certain savant in their proportions, just the right curve here and bend there. His colored gem pieces show an amazing dexterity of form and color combination.

AGTA Award Winning Paraiba Tourmaline and Diamond Ring by Leon Mege

Beyond the designs, the execution is what truly sets Leon’s rings apart. Each ring is fabricated by hand–no molds. The proportions are worked out, then the stones all laid out, drilled, set, beaded, and finished. It takes a cadre of the most skilled craftsmen in his studio/workshop in New York some 6 weeks to make one (one!) bespoke ring.

While I was in the studio, I got to see some exceptional one-of-a-kind pieces, including the ring below. This ruby ring belongs on someone’s finger (for some reason I think it should be in LA, but maybe I’m wrong). Each “petal” started out as a sheet of silver metal. Then it has to be molded into its undulating leaf shape, and the pattern of the stones is laid out. Each tiny hole for each stone is drilled, then the rubies are set with tiny pave beads on top, and the bottom of the leaf is azured. When he started the project, Leon did not know for sure how many stones would be used, but somehow, the number of rubies came out to exactly 500. And the number of diamonds came to exactly 50. Serendipity of symmetry and balance…

Ruby and Orange Diamond Ring by Leon Mege, $35,000 Retail

The History

Leon arrived in New York City in 1988. Trained in jewelry fabrication in his native Russia, he was employed in the jewelry trade literally on his second day in the US (that should tell you something about his ambition and work ethic). He got his Gemology degrees from GIA, and eventually started his own shop here on 47th St. Up until about 2 years ago, he was the secret weapon for the most prestigious retailers in NYC, making rings for celebrities and some of the most influential glitterati in the city. But his designs deserve a name, so a couple of years ago he shifted the business from a trade-only custom shop to a private-appointment atelier selling directly to the end customer.

The shift to almost-retailer has been a very good one, giving Leon the name recognition he needs and customers direct communication with the man himself. A remarkable number of details can get lost in translation from customer to retail salesperson to the craftsman. This way, the customer gets EXACTLY what they want.

Magnificent Cold Fusion Halo Setting for a 3 Carat Cushion, Leon Mege

The Process

If you are interested in having Leon and company make a ring for you, keep in mind that this is not a traditional store. You need to follow some rules of engagement. You make an appointment. You may not see a ring at all during your visit, just images of designs. He will set your own stone, if it is appropriate for the mounting you want and can be set safely. If you need a diamond, especially a significant or unusual Cushion cut or Asscher cut, you can speak to Perry Chen, the Diamond Concierge of the business. Perry can find you the right diamond–at an extremely competitive price–and you get the synergies of working with them from sourcing the stone to the finished ring.

This is a craftsman whose name should be in the company of Faberge, and the original Cartier. Years from now, his pieces may be listed by name in auction catalogs and command those values. If you have Leon Mege make a ring for you, you can count yourself among celebrities, collectors, and connoisseurs.

Leon hard at work at the jewelry bench.

View this post on idazzle.com: Leon Mege, The Most Beautiful Rings In The World?

I maintain a list of independent jewelry retailers across the country so that I can refer readers if they need help with jewelry. I screen these local jewelers for a variety of things: competitive prices, especially on diamonds; GIA-educated salespeople on staff; membership in various trade organizations that promote ethics and integrity; a bench jeweler who can do jewelry repair onsite; business longevity and good reputation. It is especially helpful and relevant when I can personally visit these jewelers, so I do it when I can!

The Greenwich Jewelers Storefront at 64 Trinity Place, NY, NY 10006

Greenwich Jewelers was on my radar after I read about their focus on exciting fashion-forward jewelry designers in JCK. They carry a lovely selection of designers such as Marcia Moran, Jamie Joseph, and Gorjana. But they are much more than a fashion jewelry boutique. Inside their jewel-box of a store, they are a full-service jeweler with something for everyone: diamonds and bridal jewelry, plus a full compliment of wearable and affordable fine jewelry sourced from all over the world.

Silver-plated and Swarovsky Crystal Earrings by Azaara, avail at Greenwich Jewelers, $185 Retail

I was warmly greeted by Jennifer Gandia, who is co-owner of the store with her sister, Christina Gandia Gambale. They are widely recognized as experts in recognizing the best up-and-coming jewelry designers. Jennifer graciously showed me around and let me ogle the beautiful jewelry while telling me about the history of their store. This is a multi-generational business, started by their parents in 1976. Although the business shifted to the daughters a few years ago, their *lovely* parents are still in the store. Their mother Milly runs the repair department, and father Carl is the Master Jeweler at the bench, creating custom jewelry and doing fine repair work. Their biggest legacy is a devotion to service and integrity, which is apparent the moment you walk in the door.

Gorjana Rose Gold Vermeil Ring from Greenwich Jewelers

Although Greenwich Jewelers carries an amazing curated collection of fashion and fine jewelry designers, they still maintain a strong family jeweler persona. If you go in searching for an engagement ring, for instance, they first LISTEN (which can be a rarity these days), then do their best to find exactly what you want. They will bring in diamonds that fit your budget, create a custom design, and you will end up with a beautiful piece of jewelry that truly reflects what you asked for. If you buy a ring from them, they will repair your ring FOR LIFE. They also source conflict-free diamonds (they were one of the first retailers to stock Polar Bear diamonds from Canada), recycle gold, and specialize in designers who use socially-conscious practices.

Handmade Platinum Engagement Ring by Van Craeynest, Also Avail in 18k Gold

Thank you, Jennifer and staff, for a warm welcome! It was a pleasure, and a very good reminder for me that you get the best service and value from a store that really has your best interests at heart.

View this post on idazzle.com: A Visit to Greenwich Jewelers in New York City

Here are the details:

We designed the idazzle Diamond Prices iPhone application to help you make a very informed diamond decision at a local jeweler. Before shopping, or even at the store, you can use the nifty interface to instantly get the best price you should pay for a diamond at physical jewelry store, for FREE. While online diamond prices are easily accessible from your mobile device, until we launched this app, there wasn’t any information about what price you should pay at a physical jewelry store.

Click on the image to be linked to the idazzle Diamond Prices iPhone App!

Diamond Prices

We have prices for 4 diamond shapes, 7 carat weight sizes, 7 colors, 7 clarities, and 4 cut grades. We have carefully researched this database to be within competitive range of the best online diamond prices. If you pay our recommended price at a local jewelry store, you are getting a great deal.

Diamond 4C’s Information

You can also access our advice and information on diamond factors that influence price. We tell you what quality range to stay within so you end up with a gorgeous diamond, without overpaying for factors that aren’t essential.

Find a Local Jeweler

If you are interested in buying a diamond at the idazzle Price, but don’t know a jeweler in your area, you can send us a request from the idazzle Diamond Prices App. We are building a database of pre-screened, reputable jewelers who are interested in giving you the best service and the best value!

idazzle wants you to make the best diamond decision at a local jeweler! Check it out and tell me what you think…

View this post on idazzle.com: idazzle Diamond Prices iPhone App is Now Free!

Full disclosure: I just released a Diamond Price iPhone application in November 2009, called idazzle Diamond Prices. Yes, we provide diamond pricing information and diamond education as well, and sell it for the same price (.99 cents). At that price, compared to the price of the app development, we should see a profit somewhere around, ohhh, 2015. So I am not reviewing this with the intent that I want to sell more units than they do. I really could care less about sales. I mostly did the app to actually be HELPFUL to consumers, and to provide some interesting cross-traffic and support the information on the idazzle website. For the idazzle Diamond Price app, we provide a suggested price that a consumer should pay IN A PHYSICAL JEWELRY STORE, and that price is slightly more than an online-only retailer for some very good reasons outlined here.

iDiamond App Features

All in all the iDiamonds App is very clear and easy to use, with the standard Apple wheel-thingy to help you scroll through various factors to come up with their Suggested Retail, and the Price Per Carat. I find it quite “light” in that they have 2 shape choices, “Round” and the very generic “Fancy”. I know from my extensive diamond pricing research that different diamond shapes have very different pricing, so I’m not sure how helpful/accurate/useful it is to lump ALL shapes other than round into one category. Also, nowhere on the app do they define the cut grade they use for their Suggested Retails. The Diamond Cut grade is simply THE most important factor in determining price. It is so important that the idazzle Diamond Price App calls out distinct pricing for four cut grades: Ideal, Very Good, Good, and Fair. The iDiamonds GIA-sponsored diamond education information is moderately helpful–it’s the same info consumers see over and over on almost any diamond website.

iDiamonds Pricing

The thing I take serious issue with is their main purpose: Diamond Prices. If their pricing is supposed to define Suggested Retail Pricing for Consumers, consumers are going to find their wallets considerably lighter if they follow the iDiamond pricing guide. My initial gut response that the prices were high was confirmed when I did a brief analysis on 4 diamond size/shape combinations. To be clear, iDiamonds talks about consumers buying at a discount from their Suggested Retails; they say the discount depends on the retail channel, cut grade, the grading lab used, and other factors. But they never define a discount (20% off their suggested price for an internet retailer, 10% off for a physical retailer, for example). It seems to me that by trying to be endorsed by the industry, they have made their pricing so high as to be completely useless. And borderline ludicrous.

I compared a certified .50 ct Round, 1.00 ct Round, 1.50 ct Asscher, and 2.00 ct Round in quality ranges most consumers would shop for. I found that for the .50 ct and 1.00 ct Rounds, their Suggested Retail prices were 54% OVER the actual price of a comparable diamond I found on Blue Nile (the 1.50 ct Asscher and 2 ct Round weren’t much better at 41% and 27% over, respectively). In comparison, the idazzle Diamond Price suggestion from my app was 3% more for the .50 ct Round and 16% more for the 1.00 ct Round. So if a .50 ct Round, H color, VS2 clarity, Very Good cut diamond sells for $1227 on Blue Nile, idazzle recommends paying $1265, and iDiamonds recommends paying $2663.50, over twice as much!

Bottom Line

Sure, you can spend the .99 cents and get the iDiamonds App. If you can glean some nugget of information from this that will help you make a better diamond decision, fantastic! But I cannot in good conscience recommend that you actually use their pricing as a guide. Please, before you purchase anything, do some research. Spend some time poking around the idazzle website. Get some idea of what online prices are, get a price or two from a reputable, local jeweler and then make an informed decision that will also be a great value.

Click on the image to be linked to the idazzle Diamond Prices iPhone App!

View this post on idazzle.com: Review of iDiamonds iPhone Application

Click on the image to be linked to the idazzle Diamond Prices iPhone App!

Diamond Prices

We have prices for 4 diamond shapes, 7 carat weight sizes, 7 colors, 7 clarities, and 4 cut grades. We have carefully researched this database to be within competitive range of the best online diamond prices. If you pay our recommended price at a local jewelry store, you are getting a great deal.

Diamond 4C’s Information

You can also access our advice and information on diamond factors that influence price. We tell you what quality range to stay within so you end up with a gorgeous diamond, without overpaying for factors that aren’t essential.

Find a Local Jeweler

If you are interested in buying a diamond at the idazzle Price, but don’t know a jeweler in your area, you can send us a request from the idazzle Diamond Prices App. We are building a database of pre-screened, reputable jewelers who are interested in giving you the best service and the best value!

idazzle wants you to make the best diamond decision at a local jeweler! Check it out and tell me what you think…

View this post on idazzle.com: idazzle Diamond Prices iPhone App Launches!

Every diamond sparkles; no one can just look at a diamond and tell you the exact origin. So how do you make sure that the symbol of your love hasn’t hurt anyone else in its journey?

1.50 Ct. Asscher Cut F, VS2 Diamond from Brilliant Earth $11,210 Retail

What is the Kimberly Process?

The Kimberly Process is a UN-mandated system, and was developed by the diamond industry, NGO’s and interested governments in 2000 as a way to track and certify rough diamond origins. There are approximately 74 countries represented, with participating members adhering to strict requirements to import or export only to other members. The diamond industry states that over 99% of diamonds entering the market now (post Kimberly Process) are certified to be from conflict-free sources.

How the Kimberly Process works.

Here is a rundown of how the Kimberly Process and its System of Warranties works to keep conflict diamonds out of the market:
1. Mining: After mining, diamonds are transported to the Government Diamond Office.
2. Export: The source of the diamonds is checked to be conflict-free, then the diamonds are sealed into a tamper-resistant package, and assigned a Government-generated Kimberly Process certificate with a unique serial number.
3. Import: The importing government customs office checks the certificate and seal. If the seal is broken or the Kimberly Certificate is tampered with in any way, the package is turned back or impounded in customs.
4. Cutting/Manufacturing/Trading: Once a diamond has been legitimately exported and imported into a member country, it can be cut and then set into finished jewelry. Each time the diamond changes hands, a warranty must be provided on each invoice stating that the diamond is from a certified non-conflict source. Manufacturers are required to audit these records and keep them for 5 years minimum. Click here to see an example of an invoice with a warranty.
5. Retail: The onus is on the retail jeweler to ensure that the diamonds they stock are conflict-free. The retailers are provided a warranty on their invoices from suppliers that the diamonds are from conflict-free sources. The retailers are required to audit their invoices and keep records for 5 years. The System of Warranties does NOT require that the customer receive a warranty on their receipt that the diamond they purchase is from a conflict-free source. But with the warranties passing from mine to suppliers to retailers, and with accountability to auditing, it is hoped that this system results in a conflict-free diamond for the customer.

Questions for your jeweler:

Any retailer or jeweler can claim their diamonds are conflict-free. But here’s what you should ask:
Can I see a copy of your store’s Conflict Diamond Policy?

Do you have diamonds that are certified from Canada or sources other than Africa?

Canadian Polar Bear Diamond Image Showing Inscription

If in serious doubt, buy Canadian or Estate / Antique.

Canadian diamonds weren’t discovered and mined until very recently, and the government has tried to respect and protect the indigenous people and the sensitive environments in the mine areas as much as possible. Most diamonds from Canadian sources have certificates and inscription numbers etched into their girdles to mark their provenance. Some brand names are Artic Fox, Polar Bear, Canadian Ice, etc. A couple of mines, Diavik and Ekati, are also known for their especially strict environmental standards, so that is another bonus.

Another option is buy an estate or antique diamond, which could always be set into a new mounting. You can be pretty assured that a diamond mined and cut prior to the 1980′s wasn’t part of the political unrest in Africa. It’s recycling taken to a higher level.

So does the Kimberly Process work?

Hmmm. I am very glad that it exists and it most definitely has prevented a significant number of diamonds from falling into the wrong hands. Does it do enough? NGO’s such as Global Witness say that the KP doesn’t go far enough to make the diamond market 100% conflict-free. Ultimately it is up to the consumer to demand that the diamonds they buy come from sources where diamonds do not endanger people’s lives or fund terror groups.

We are headed the right direction. Let’s be conscious, ask questions and be accountable as retailers and consumers.

View this post on idazzle.com: How To Buy a Conflict-Free Diamond

Cushion Diamond in Pave Setting from Mednikow Jewelers in Memphis and Atlanta

Here’s how to find a great, reputable jeweler in your area:

Ask your family, friends, and colleagues.

This can often be a good place to start. You should still apply the following tips and questions to their suggestion to make sure the recommendation is very qualified.

Search for key jewelry industry affiliations like AGS or JVC.

Once you have a recommendation, or if you still need a couple of names, there are some jewelry industry organizations that can be a good screening criteria. One of the first things I look for is membership in the American Gem Society. It’s a jewelry trade organization that requires high levels of product knowledge, and very strict ethical standards regarding representation and pricing. Jewelers who are members must be tested every year to maintain their membership. Another organization is the Jeweler’s Vigilance Committee, or JVC. This non-profit helps jewelers maintain high ethical standards by keeping their members up-to-date on all the legal compliance rules within the jewelry industry. JVC members pay dues and agree to uphold the ethics established through their own business practices. You can also contact JVC to find out if a jeweler has had a complaint lodged against them. Not all reputable jewelers are members of these orgs, nor does membership automatically guarantee a great customer experience, but it’s a good place to start.

Check for an online presence.

Once you have a couple of potential names, google or bing them. Some local jewelers are not terribly tech-savvy, but I prefer companies that have at least a decent online presence for a couple of reasons. First, it shows a certain commitment to innovation that I think is indicative of how they run their business in general. And second, if they are online they are one click away from any of their on-line competitors, and hopefully understand competitive pricing of diamonds and other jewelry basics that consumers are shopping for online. If they have some sort of verbage on their homepage or “About Me” that says they are committed to competitive pricing, so much the better. Once you have found their website, you can see what designers and jewelry lines they carry, and if their hours and location will work for you.

Now some questions for them…

Do they have a Certified or Graduate Gemologist on staff? A bench jeweler on-site for repairs? On-site jewelry appraiser? These criteria can predict a higher level of service for the customer. A GIA-educated salesperson (with a certificate from the Gemological Institute of America) can give you the best product knowledge and help you with your purchase. A bench jeweler located in the store can set, size, or repair most jewelry without it having to leave the store, and sometimes they can do it while you wait. An appraiser on staff can help assign a replacement value to your own jewelry or answer detailed product questions you might have.

How competitive is their pricing?

When I do my screening for my Local Jeweler recommendations, I will call potential jewelers to ask them about a certain size and quality of GIA or AGS-certified diamond. I do a lot of research online, so I know competitive pricing for online merchants and I feel that physical jewelers should be within about 15% of online diamond pricing. If they are much over that, it’s just not competitive for consumers and I move on. Physical jewelers have some good reasons to charge a little more for their diamonds: they keep some diamonds in stock vs. the feeds (lists) of diamonds that online loose diamond suppliers–most online retailers don’t actually have any diamonds in house. Carrying that inventory is capital-intensive for the physical jeweler. Good, reputable physical jewelers also have an educated staff to show you those actual diamonds and explain the quality and value differences to you. They can also help you select the best setting, and size and set it all for you. That’s a lot of overhead compared to lean online operations. For a recent post about on-line versus off-line mark ups, click here.

Once you have a couple of names, head in to the store.

Making an appointment isn’t a necessity, but it might be more efficient. A good jeweler will ask some key questions and really listen to what you’re looking for, and then can do some research before you come in. Set aside some time to really look around and talk to the salesperson. This is about a relationship. If you feel rushed, or feel like they have an agenda to stick something down your throat that is NOT what you are looking for, MOVE ON. You should be able to think things over and take your time making a decision. You should feel appreciated, taken care of, listened to, and leave feeling that you got a great VALUE. If there is something in your gut that doesn’t feel right, trust yourself and your instincts. There are lots of great jewelers out there; you will find one.

Bottom Line:

Dollar for dollar, sometimes the best value can be found at a local independent jeweler. You get the value of their knowledge and experience firsthand. The best jewelers are committed to their community, and often support important local philanthropic causes. They are nice people trying to make a living in a challenging industry, and truly want you to get the best quality and value. I have had opportunities to work with some great jewelers and have assembled a list of qualified referrals in a number of metro areas in the country. I am happy to pass along my vetted names of jewelers to those who need it. Submit a request for me on my Local Jewelers tab, and I would be happy to recommend someone in your area. Happy (Local) Shopping!

View this post on idazzle.com: How To Find a Reputable Local Jeweler You Can Trust

Think about your budget.

In the age of “Real Housewives” and other conspicuous consumption, the reality of what an engagement ring should cost can get lost in the hype. Spend what you can afford, it’s not worth going into major debt for.

Learn about the 4 C’s.

Visit my bottom-line rundown of diamond quality characteristics here. You can always drill down deeper if you need to.

Narrow some of your decisions before looking on- or off-line.

If you can make some basic decisions before you start shopping, like whether you’re looking for Princess and/or Asscher, or “Ideal” cut versus “Good”, it will help you when you research online.

Diamond Shapes From Amazon.com Loose Diamond Interface

Consider the design of the ring itself.

This is a whole ‘nother post. But the bare basics to consider are: color of metal (white vs yellow); simple or “designer” style; how active the recipient’s lifestyle is (how best to set the diamond so it stays safe); how traditional the recipient is (which might tell you to go with a round brilliant solitaire style); and is it possible to get their finger size? If you can recruit one of her friends to give you some insight, this is great. Or casually stroll through a jewelry store while shopping one weekend. Some couples shop together, but there is something very romantic about pulling this off as a total surprise.

Go shopping–online!

I highly recommend going to a couple of reputable online sites to search their diamond listings to determine what the online price range is. I have researched some online diamond companies for previous posts, and some appear to be very reputable. These are Blue Nile, Amazon.com, James Allen, Whiteflash, Mondera, Diamond.com, Costco.com, and Union Diamond. These sites have a large selection of GIA and AGS certified diamonds (I would almost say TOO large, the search results can be overwhelming), very competitive prices, and good education information on the sites to get informed. Print out your top picks so you know price ranges and details before you go into a physical store.

Understand the price difference between an online retailer and a physical jeweler.

I did a post recently regarding relative mark-ups and margins, click here to read. The basics that you need to know are that you will likely pay about 15% more than the most competitive online prices (like from a Blue Nile or Amazon.com) at a physical local jeweler. There are some good reasons for this. The jeweler is sitting down with you and showing you diamonds from their inventory, educating you one-on-one versus the one-to-many that online retailers are able to do. How many shopping experiences can you think of where the salesperson sits down with you and spends up to hours educating you about your purchase? There is potentially a lot of overhead cutting into their profit: staff and training, physical inventory and carrying costs, and they don’t do the volume that the online merchants do. In theory, there’s a lot of value to shopping at a jewelry store: you get much more educated in person, you can compare diamonds to find the exact right one for your budget, you can have the ring set, sized and serviced right in the store (most online retailers don’t offer a sizing service). You may get a warranty. And you now have a relationship with someone who can clean and service the ring, and help you with future jewelry purchases.

Choose a REPUTABLE local jeweler.

This is probably the most important decision. I like local independents, who are fixtures in their community, versus national chains like Zales or Helzburgs. (There are exceptions to that, like Ben Bridge Jewelers, which is a regional chain that operates more like an Independent.) Don’t know of any really highly regarded jewelers in your hometown? Ask friends, relatives, and co-workers about good experiences they have had, that’s a good place to start. If you still aren’t sure after asking around (or it’s a total secret and you can’t ask), I recommend doing a search for a jeweler who is a member of the American Gem Society, a jewelry trade organization that requires high levels of product knowledge, and very strict ethical standards regarding representation and pricing (click here to do a search). You can also visit my Local Jewelers page and drop me a line. I have been building a list of reputable jewelers for years, and may have someone I can recommend in your area.

Make sure you know the retailer’s return policy.

Industry standard return policy is 30 days, unworn in perfect condition WITH all original documents and certificates. Just in case.

Buy a diamond with a diamond “certificate” (lab grading report) from a reputable grading lab.

I personally prefer GIA and AGS; some other well-known labs are EGL, IGI, and HRD. Especially when you get into ¾ carat and over, minor differences in quality make an increasing impact on price. While a certificate is not an ironclad guarantee, it is one of the most proven ways to make sure that you are getting what you pay for.

At the jeweler, look at several diamonds side-by-side.

It’s amazing what you can learn by seeing diamonds of varying qualities compared in person. Many of the quality characteristics that affect a diamond’s value are very subtle, and only by comparison will you see the nuances that will help you decide that a particular diamond is the one for you. Also, you may find that you are not as sensitive–or more sensitive–to a quality characteristic that you thought was really important. I’ve seen people who are fixated on a colorless diamond realize they can’t tell the difference between the “E” and the “I”, and save some money.

Don’t lose sight of the big picture.

Related to the above point, while learning about diamond quality, sometimes it is easy to get distracted by one factor. Remember that a balance of all 4 factors will give you the best value, and there are lots of quality combinations that result in a gorgeous diamond. Personally, I would choose a diamond that is very well-cut, either Ideal or near-Ideal, that is F-H color and VS to SI2 clarity, since diamonds with these ranges will appear exceptionally brilliant and don’t have eye-visible color or flaws.

Make sure you compare the diamond you end up buying with the certificate.

Look at the diamond under 10x magnification, and make sure that the jeweler explains all of the factors and helps you locate the identifying inclusions. This will also prove helpful later if you need to leave your diamond with a jeweler you don’t know—you can always identify it.

Watch out for cheesy high-pressure sales tactics.

Beware of “this price is only good for today” phrases. Any legitimate jeweler will let you think over such an important purchasing decision. Their diamond and their offer should sound better after thinking things over! If you hear things like the above phrase, or “below wholesale”, this is a good indication that you need to go back to the “Find a reputable jeweler” point and start over.

Get an appraisal for the finished ring.

The diamond’s lab report (certificate) is a document that details the quality of the center diamond, but it does not give a value. An appraisal gives the replacement cost of the diamond and the mounting. I highly recommend that you list this important purchase on a separate rider attached to your regular homeowner’s insurance policy. The Jeweler should provide you with an appraisal at no charge.

Bottom Line: Don’t Be Afraid, Just Be Prepared!

If you choose a good jeweler, it might even be FUN! Anything else to add? If you want to buy a diamond online, I’ve done a list of tips for that, click here.

View this post on idazzle.com: Valuable Tips for Buying a Diamond From a Jewelry Store

Think about your budget.

In the age of “Real Housewives” and other conspicuous consumption, the reality of what an engagement ring should cost can get lost in the hype. Spend what you can afford, it’s not worth going into major debt for.

Learn about the 4 C’s.

Visit my bottom-line rundown of diamond quality characteristics here. You can always drill down deeper if you need to.

Buy a diamond with a diamond “certificate” (lab grading report) from a reputable grading lab

I personally prefer GIA and AGS; some other well-known labs are EGL, IGI, and HRD. Especially when you get into ¾ carat and over, minor differences in quality make an increasing impact on price. While a certificate is not an ironclad guarantee, it is one of the most proven ways to make sure that you are getting what you pay for.

Decide on Diamond Shape before shopping.

If you don’t at least narrow some of the factors, like shape, before you do some diamond searches, your head will spin around when you see the sheer numbers of results. Decide whether you’re looking for Princess and/or Asscher, or Round and/or Cushion.

Diamond Shapes From Amazon.com Loose Diamond Interface

Consider the design of the ring itself.

This is a whole ‘nother post. But the bare basics to consider are: color of metal (white vs yellow); simple or “designer” style; how active the recipient’s lifestyle is (how best to set the diamond so it stays safe); how traditional the recipient is (which might tell you to go with a round brilliant solitaire style); and is it possible to get their finger size? If you can recruit one of her friends to give you some insight, this is great. Or casually stroll through a jewelry store while shopping one weekend. Some couples shop together, but there is something very romantic about pulling this off as a total surprise.

Pave Set Diamond Engagement Ring from Blue Nile

Go shopping–at an actual store.

I highly recommend going to at least a couple of independent jewelers (not mall stores or national chains) in your area to physically look at some rings and diamonds. Just like anything, what you THINK you are going to like based on what you’ve seen online may be very different than what you ACTUALLY like in person. Plus, you can get a good idea of what the cost of the diamond and ring would be at a store near you. You might find that it’s the best value overall (factoring in the service) after comparing online.

Go to a reputable online diamond retailer.

I have researched some online diamond companies for previous posts, and some appear to be very reputable. These are Blue Nile, Amazon.com, James Allen, Whiteflash, Mondera, Diamond.com, Costco.com, and Union Diamond. Look at the “About” sections on the seller’s website and see how many consumer-trust organizations they are affiliated with. If you’re really concerned, you can check to see if they are members in good standing with those orgs. While there are lots of great smaller players, you may be taking a big chance on an expensive, relatively blind purchase from an “anonymous” retailer. Trust your gut, and if something doesn’t seem right, walk away.

Make use of the online retailer’s 800#

Buying a diamond online is easy, right? You just move the sliders to the desired quality range and you find the best value from the results and buy it. Hahahaha! When you do a search for a specific quality/size of diamond in the online databases from many online retailers you can get literally THOUSANDS of results. I find it mind-boggling trying to sort and evaluate listings–and I’m a Gemologist! (To see my process for wading through 1 carat round loose offerings, click here, and I also did it recently for .50 to .75 carat rounds.) One way to wade through to find the best diamond is to speak to a representative. Keep in mind that some sellers like Blue Nile and Amazon don’t actually stock the diamonds, so they can’t physically pull it from the safe and tell you about it. But they can at least go through the fine print details like girdle thickness and pavilion depth to help a little bit. A nice selling point for James Allen is the fact that they OWN some of their diamond listings (versus just having real-time feeds or lists of diamonds), plus they have amazing imaging of their loose diamonds.

Make sure you know the retailer’s return policy

Industry standard return policy is 30 days, unworn in perfect condition WITH all original documents and certificates. Just in case you hate it, she hates it, or something just doesn’t work out.

Don’t lose sight of the big picture.

While learning about diamond quality, sometimes it is easy to get distracted by one factor. Remember that a balance of all 4 factors will give you the best value, and there are lots of quality combinations that result in a gorgeous diamond. Personally, I would choose a diamond that is very well-cut, either Ideal or near-Ideal, that is F-H color and VS to SI2 clarity, since diamonds with these ranges will appear exceptionally brilliant and don’t have eye-visible color or flaws. Everyone has different priorities, so if clarity is your thing, then go for a smaller stone that is VVS.

Get an appraisal for the finished ring

Most reputable online retailers have this part figured out. The diamond’s certificate only outlines the characteristics of the diamond, not a replacement value for insurance purposes. It’s inconvenient to have to take it somewhere to get it appraised elsewhere, but could be interesting to see what value an Independent Appraiser might attach to it. I highly recommend that you list this important purchase on a separate rider attached to your regular homeowner’s insurance policy.

Bottom Line: Don’t Be Afraid, Just Be Prepared!

Anything else to add? I’ll do a separate post on buying diamonds from a physical retailer.

View this post on idazzle.com: Valuable Tips for Buying a Diamond Online