Jordan Alexander Necklace Containing 300 Year Old Yemen Prayer Beads, Moonstones, Pave Diamond Beads and Clasp

Jordan Alexander Jewelry Background

So who can make pearls go from tepid to trend? The designer responsible for Jordan Alexander’s aesthetic is Theresa Bruno. A native of Alabama, Theresa grew up surrounded by the tradition of jewelry in the south. The pearls and jewelry collections of her mother and grandmother definitely made an impression, with their fine workmanship and classic styles. But when Theresa began designing her own jewelry in 2010, she wanted something serious but with a twist: a way to wear materials that are recognizably fine, but in a fresh way that can go from office to grocery store to night out effortlessly.

Jordan Alexander Pave Diamond Double Loop Diamond Slice Earrings

The Jewelry of Jordan Alexander

In addition to a selection of core designs, Jordan Alexander releases new collections of jewelry each season. Looking over the collection for Fall 2011, I was struck by the variety of materials: Jasper, Tiger Eye, Chysolite, Pyrite, tea-dyed bone, wood, Moonstone, and antique Yemen prayer beads, to name just a few. The jewelry is a reset of combination expectations, with rough-textured black lava happily coexisting with luminous pearls or twinkling pave beads.

Jordan Alexander Peacock Baroque Pearl Necklace with Diamond Pave Links and Clasp

My favorites? I would layer the 42 inch Navy or Beige Pearl strands with the 28 inch versions with a tassle. Or the long Sandalwood or Bone beads with shorter leather macrames woven with creamy pearls and diamonds. I could have the mother of all arm parties with an ivory or beige pearl bracelet, layered with crocheted multi-strands with sparkling black spinels, and finished with macrame woven with a pave diamond disc. I genuinely covet almost any of her earring designs, but especially love the pave buttons paired with the antique Yemen prayer bead drops: drama, beauty and history all in one sophisticated package.

Jordan Alexander Peacock Bracelet Twist Bracelet with Diamond and Sapphire Beads

The Interview with Jordan Alexander Jewelry

idazzle.com: When did Jordan Alexander Jewelry officially launch, and what was the ultimate impetus to make the jump into fine jewelry design?
Teresa Bruno of Jordan Alexander: Jordan Alexander officially launched in August 2010. I had been designing my own pieces for about three years when I decided to start the company. I wanted a look that combined my grandmother’s classic sense of style with my own edgier sense. When I couldn’t find it, I decided to create my own. High-fashion individuals would repeatedly lift the pieces from around my neck and ask to purchase them, and eventually, my business partner and I laid the groundwork to take us to where we are today.

Where are your designs made, New York or Los Angeles? How has your history in Alabama influenced your designs?
I design when I am in both New York and L.A. I feed off of the amazing, creative individuals I work with, and am always pleasantly surprised by where I end up. Because a number of my pieces use such an unusual type of tying method, they are reproduced in LA. Being in Birmingham keeps me true to my southern roots and southern influence.

Do you feel that your background in classical music has impacted your designs?
I have always had a love and appreciation for beauty and artistry. In fact, I spent my childhood and early adult years training to be a classical musician. This training helped define me as a person and influenced my life’s creative journey as a musician, designer, arts educator and film producer.

Jordan Alexander White Agate and Baroque Pearl Necklace with Diamond Pave Links and Clasp

Can you tell us about your design process? For instance, how do you come up with such imaginative combinations of gems?
The actual design process may consist of working from sketches that are exact – working from drawings of designs that I envision – or, sometimes, it’s more fluid and evolves from seeing a specific material or certain finding I want to build on. I’m constantly trying to find creative uses for the materials I find. I look for elements to bring unexpected twists to my designs. I love combining traditional, classic elements like diamonds and other precious stones with rich, organic pieces like lava and moonstone. Perhaps my most recent example is how I’ve been working with diamond and pearl slices to create unique and more economical pieces.

What is the most interesting gem or material you have acquired so far? Have you been able to incorporate that into a design yet?
I certainly think the most interesting piece you’ll find in my designs is the 300-year-old Yemen prayer bead. These beads are pieces of antiquity that mothers prayed over for their children. Aside from being beautiful pieces, the history behind them makes them even more meaningful and valuable to use in my designs.

How does it feel to have the attention of people like WWD editors and the First Lady?! Did you have any sense when launching that your designs would resonate so quickly?
It’s an overwhelming honor, and I pinch myself from time to time to remind myself that this really happening. I put all of my creative energy into my work, and I see the amazing people I work with doing the same thing. To know that what we’re doing is impacting people on a level so much greater than ourselves is truly rewarding.

What is on the horizon for Jordan Alexander?
Right now, we’re expanding our presence across the country. As far as the actual line goes, we introduced our first set of enhancers and rings in Fall 2011. I’m looking forward to taking new concepts and expanding the collection to include more of those pieces.

Jordan Alexander Silver Ring with Quartz Slice and Diamonds

How and Where to Buy Jordan Alexander Jewelry

Many of the pieces are made in LA, but Theresa stays close to her roots by maintaining an office of the company in Birmingham, AL. You can contact them through the Jordan Alexander Facebook page. To see any of the items pictured here, or inquire about Jordan Alexander jewelry, you can find an extensive collection at Fragments New York City store in SoHo, or Fragments website. Contact them here or call 212.334.9588 to find out more. Jordan Alexander’s designs can also be found at other boutiques across the country, including Shari’s Place in Greenvale, NY and Marissa Collections in Naples, FL.

The designer of Jordan Alexander, Theresa Bruno at work

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Jordan Alexander Jewelry Interview

I just received a few images of her new collections, and they were so gorgeous, I had to share. There is a cohesive quality in the metal colors and textures, yet each piece is totally distinctive. I find the silhouettes incredibly on-trend and modern, yet there is a feeling of authentic ethnicity in the details.

Blackened Silver and 18K Gold Meus Designs Pave Colored Diamond Ring (Center Dia 6.49 cts, Other Dia Wt. 1.89 cts), $11,200 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Diamond & Milky Moonstone Oval Bezel Ring (Dia Wt. 2.25 cts), $5,390 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Champagne Diamond Tear Drop Earrings with Black Diamonds (Black Dia Wt: 5.66 cts, Champ Dia Wt. 0.80 cts), $7,600 Retail

Blackened Silver and 18K Gold Meus Designs Boulder Opal Ring with Diamonds (Dia Wt. .50 cts), $6,200 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Champagne Diamond & Emerald Frame Chandelier Earrings (Dia Wt: 1.10 cts, Emerald Wt: 2.3 cts), $4,200 Retail

I covet any of these for my personal collection, but I would (figuratively) kill for the Boulder Opal ring and the Emerald and Diamond Silhouette Earrings. I look forward to seeing more from this talented designer!

View this post on idazzle.com: New Meus Designs

An Ounce of Prevention

First of all, you should try to limit the amount of dirt that your jewelry comes into contact with in the first place. I know that people think that fine jewelry equals forever, but there is a big difference between “enduring” and “indestructible”. Dirt and chemicals from everyday wear will break down precious metals and gems eventually. Please don’t wear your jewelry 24/7. Take it off, make a safe, scratch-free nest for it somewhere, and put it on when you leave the house. Think about your nicest designer article of clothing that you would wear during the day. Would you wear it while scrubbing a pot or rolling out dough? Would you wear that lifting weights or in the garden? Think about your jewelry being about the same level of tolerance for wear and tear as a fine piece of clothing, and it will last a lot longer.

Engagement rings, like this Leon Mege Pave Cushion Cut Ring, love to be clean!

The Spa Bath

Even with great care, sooner or later we notice our jewelry just doesn’t sparkle like it did straight out of the store. Newsflash: wearing jewelry in the shower does not constitute a good cleaning. Many soaps can leave a residue on gemstones. To really clean most gemstone jewelry–NOT pearls, opals, or some other delicate materials–you are going to need to immerse, soak, and maybe gently clean the underside of the gems to get them to sparkle at their full potential. There are many, many different commercial products out there: ultrasonic cleaners, steam cleaners, plastic containers with special formulas from jewelry stores, sprays and cleaning cloths. Some may be safe for your particular jewelry, some may not be–you have to read the fine print.

The best choice for cleaning most gemstone jewelry set into precious metals like silver, gold and platinum is the following tried-and-true method using simple household ingredients. Get a secure container, like a bowl or Pyrex measuring cup. Add a small squirt of very gentle dishwashing soap, like a Mrs. Meyers brand. Mix with warm water until you have some suds. Gently lower your jewelry into the cup/bowl so that it doesn’t hit other jewelry. Now soak for a while, preferably 15 minutes or more. If your jewelry is made of diamonds, rubies, or sapphires and really dirty, get a soft-bristled toothbrush, one that has broken down from actual brushing use, and very gently scrub the underside of the gems and setting. Give it another rinse in the soapy water to remove particles, then rinse well with warm water. Let it air dry on a soft cloth or paper towel. If you have a microfiber cloth for cleaning your glasses, you can use that to wipe any water spots from the surfaces. And, voila! Your jewelry will sparkle once more.

Shortcut #1: Review of PUROSOL Jewelry Cleaner

The above method, while extremely effective, also takes a little planning and time to execute. Since most of us have exactly zero extra minutes per day to do something as frivolous as cleaning jewelry, there are a couple of shortcuts I can share.

PUROSOL, a company that makes all-natural cleaners for the optics and jewelry industry, sent me a 1 oz sample of their Molecular Cleanser For Soft Stones. (I did not receive compensation for this review, nor did I promise a positive review in exchange for the 1 oz sample.) According to the label and literature, it is made of plant extracts that release dirt particles by breaking their molecular bonds. Many commercial jewelry cleaners contain chemicals, even ammonia, that can be bad to inhale or come into contact with the skin. With PUROSOL, you simply spray the solution onto the jewelry, then wipe off the surface using the microfiber cloth included in the cleaning kit. This spray, wipe and go method is very convenient, and the whole kit comes in a plastic poly bag. Because of the gentle nature of the cleaner, it is safe to use on Pearls, Amber, Coral, Emerald, Opal and other delicate gemstones that normally should NEVER come near a commercial cleaner. Of course, it’s also safe for Diamonds, Sapphires, Rubies, Garnet, Amethyst, Aquamarines and Topaz. PUROSOL also states that cleaning with their molecular cleaner will leave jewelry cleaner for longer, as the formula repels dirt. I couldn’t figure out a reliable, scientific method for testing this in real life, so we will just have to trust them on that one.

In my tests, the solution worked well for surface cleaning. Gemstone surfaces sparkled, and the metal really gleamed after the wiping. It had no discernible smell and didn’t irritate the skin at all. But on my diamond earrings, which were pretty dull from soap residue, this surface clean left them brighter, but not jewelry-showroom brilliant, even after a second application.

You can clean rings with delicate stones, like this Emerald and Diamond ring from Gemvara.com, safely with Purosol.

Shortcut #2: Review of Brilliant Restorer 1 Minute Cleaner

My own collection of jewelry is pretty diamond-heavy, so I moved on to testing another spray-on jewelry cleaner, brilliant restorer one minute diamond and jewelry cleaner. This 2 oz bottle was given to me by a jewelry retailer, and is distributed through retail jewelers throughout the country (I did not receive any compensation for this review). This cleaner is safe to use on Diamond, Garnet, Amethyst, Aquamarine, Alexandrite, Ruby, Peridot, Sapphire, Tourmaline, Topaz, Zircon, Tanzanite, and Spinel gemstones, and Gold, Platinum, Silver, Steel and Titanium metals. It is NOT for use on porous or delicate gemstones such as Opal, Emerald, Pearl, Onyx, Jade, etc. gemstones, or on blackened, antiqued or oxidized metals, or enamel. It does contain mild phosphoric acid so they advise good ventilation and to rinse your fingers/hands thoroughly after contact–not exactly gentle.

But it works very, very well for diamond jewelry, particularly jewelry that hasn’t seen a cleaning for a while. You simply spray it on, wait 10-60 seconds, then rinse with warm water for 10 seconds. I ended up with diamond jewelry that looked like it had been scrubbed. For the aformentioned diamond stud earrings, it cut through most of the soap residue, but still did not cut through everything the way that a gentle scrubbing on the underside would. Still, for a one minute clean, it was pretty amazing.

Brilliant Restorer is a great cleaning option for diamond-intensive pieces, like this C Greene Heart with Lock Pendant.

Shortcut #3: Connoiseurs Diamond Dazzle Stik

This shortcut has a great concept and packaging: the Diamond Dazzle Stik comes as a bright red wand, and the tagline of “Twist, Brush, and Dazzle!”. I received this as a free sample from the company, again with no compensation or promise of a favorable review. The company is no new-comer to the jewelry cleaning business, they’ve been around for a very long time and make a whole raft of jewelry cleaning products. The Dazzle Stik is just their most recent, and possibly most convenient, option. The cleaner, made of cleansers and polishing agents mixed with a gentle polymer, is dispensed by twisting the pen with a satisfying little click, and then you use the very soft brush end to apply the cleaner to the jewelry, rinse and dry.

I really liked that the Dazzle Stik is more than a spray. The packaging and product get high marks from me: it’s compact, and there is no liquidy solution to worry about spilling, so you can just pop it into your bag for on-the-go cleanings. It’s also incredibly easy to use. Best of all, with the brush and the additional friction you can apply gently to the undersides of gems like Diamonds, Sappphires and Rubies, it gets your jewelry almost as sparkly as the home spa method above. The Dazzle Stik did the best job on the diamond stud earrings, almost like the soak and scrub method. There are some caveats: the packaging says not to get near children or your eyes, which probably means it’s not the gentlest formula. They aren’t particularly forthcoming about what exactly is in the product, nor exactly what gems and metals are safe to use it on, even on their website.

Diamond Dazzle Stik

Bottom Line

If you have the time, the home spa method works great for a number of gems and jewelry, and will restore beautiful shine for your baubles.

If your collection of jewelry is mostly delicate gemstones or you clean your jewelry very frequently, use Purosol. Leave it on your bathroom sink for a daily dose of preventative clean.

If you have mostly diamond jewelry and don’t clean as frequently, use Brilliant Restorer for a quick power clean (also safe for Garnet, Amethyst, Aquamarine, Alexandrite, Ruby, Peridot, Sapphire, Tourmaline, Topaz, Zircon, Tanzanite, and Spinel). Not the best choice if you have sensitive skin or a delicate gem collection.

Get the Diamond Dazzle Stik and toss it in your bag, regardless of which cleaning method above you regularly use: it’s the best choice for on-the-go cleaning and the brush does a great job for a special night out where you want your ring to impress.

So go get your sparkle on.

View this post on idazzle.com: How to Clean Your Jewelry: The Definitive Guide and Review

The creator of Meus Designs, Suneera Swarup, has debuted a collection that seems infused with the traditions and cultures of her native India, but utterly modern at the same time. She began designing as a young girl, starting first with textile design. This led to her exploring other surface mediums, until discovering jewelry. She finds inspiration in everything from the vibrant colors of India to an interesting Art Deco motif to music. Her textured, varied collections are all designed and handcrafted in her Los Angeles studio.

Meus Designs 18kt Gold and Blackened Silver Blue Sapphire Pave Teardrop Earrings, $3600 Retail

The Collections of Meus Designs

In the Influence Collection, black or brown diamonds and blackened silver metal stand in striking contrast to vibrant polished 18kt gold. Ancient symbols mingle, somehow cohesively, with Art Deco patterns and lines. There are pendants, suspended on layered leather cords, or strands made of gold, sterling and Ruby beads. Everything has an elegance to it, but looks like you could throw it on with jeans and be instantly glamorous in a strong, feminine way.

Meus Designs Small Framed Cross Ring in 18kt Rose Gold and .97 ct Diamonds

In her brand new collection, intriguing named Lure, Suneera has delved even deeper into playing with metal textures and colors. Deep, rich browns and blacks are highlighted with inlaid highly polished rose and yellow gold, or gleaming cabochon gems. There is definitely something suggesting mystery in this collection.

Meus Designs Lure Hoop Earrings in Blackened Silver with 18kt Gold and Cabochon Emeralds

Meus Designs also has a predominantly Sterling Silver line, named M Sterling. The jewelry in this collection incorporates similar motifs and textures as the other collections, but is crafted in silver, which makes it very collectible.

Meus Designs M Sterling Cross Ruby Ring

The Interview with Meus Designs Creator, Suneera Swarup

idazzle.com: Your shapes and motifs are totally original, as if you have been dreaming of these for years, and now the shapes are expressed in this precious jewelry. Does Meus have a specific Muse, something or someone you often use for inspiration?
Meus Designs: Originality is returning to the origin which is Nature. And nature never goes out of fashion. Aesthetic beauty rules our world in various fields, where form and functionality are inseparable. Meus is the synthesis of Art Deco, ancient traditions and eastern elements.

It sounds like you have a background in design, textile and other surfaces. What prompted your interest in jewelry design specifically?
I have always worked in fields involving color and creativity. In a larger industry, it is difficult to translate design work into actual products. With jewelry design, I feel I have a personal canvas where my design visions can be instantly realized. Plus, I have always had a love for jewelry, like most women do!

Meus Designs Stretch Bracelets with Peruvian Chalcedony and Pave Diamond Accents, $820, $6400, and $700 Retail from Top to Bottom

What does your studio process look like? Do you have specific gems that you design around, or do you design two dimensionally first and then source the stones?
I work both ways – Looking for new, unique material with a design direction in mind and vice versa.

Meus Designs 18kt Gold and Blackened Silver Pink Sapphire Oval Ring, $2140 Retail

Your use of recycled materials is very responsible and also a bit rare. Can you tell us how you decided to pursue this path, even though it’s not so easy?
Recycling and optimizing resources started as a necessity, and gradually became a efficient system, which we are proud to follow. Having a daughter who is passionate about the environment always keeps us in line too. I guess for that reason, she could be called a Muse for Meus!

You recently introduced the Lure Collection, when can we see more designs? Any other collections you can give a hint about?
We have some new pieces that will be completed later this spring that we are really excited about for the Lure collection! They fit in well with the current collections but add a different dimension to the line, particularly in the red-carpet category. There will certainly be collections added to Meus in time, but right now we are focused on expanding Lure.

Meus Designs Carved Turquoise Weave Earrings in 18kt Gold and Blackened Silver

It’s a bit rare that a very new designer would get noticed. Why do you think your designs have resonated with celebrities so quickly after your launch?
I am truly flattered and thankful to everyone who has appreciated my work. I like my designs to be timeless and ageless. I want my jewelry to be passed on as heirlooms; pieces that will hold value and sentiment. I am hoping this is feeling is reflected in the designs and celebrities, being artists in their own right, identify with this feeling.

Meus Designs Emerald Hook Necklace in 18kt Gold, Blackened Silver and Faceted Emerald Beads and Pave

Thank you so much, Suneera, for your thoughts and insights! Meus Designs has shown amazing promise in its first collections launched just in the last year. The word meus translates to “mine” or “belonging to me”, and Meus Designs shows a very strong sense of self and identity in its collection. You can find Meus Designs at Nina at Fred Segal in Santa Monica, Lissa Fine Jewelry in NY, and a few other select boutiques in the country: click here for a list. To contact Meus Designs about any of the jewelry you see here, visit MeusDesigns.com.

Meus Designs Serpent Earrings in 18kt Yellow Gold on Diamond Huggie Hoop

Meus Designs Stack of Bangles in 18kt Gold and Blackened Silver in Sophisticated Gem Colors, Most Styles Around $1000 Retail Each

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: An Interview with Meus Designs

Last night, it was fun to be on official gem watch as the stars arrived on the Red Carpet, and then tweet live with other jewelry enthusiasts about the best (ok, and worst) ensembles. While admiring Claire Dane’s gorgeous cuff bracelet, the effusive diamonds of Sofia Vergara, and the unexpected old Hollywood glamour of Tina Fey’s Lorraine Schwartz earrings, I also kept my eyes peeled for Martin’s work.

And he did not disappoint, no less than four stars were dressed graciously in his jewels: Julie Bowen wore a stunning pair of rose-cut rich brown diamond studs, and a grey slice of diamond in a setting that channeled Art Deco with black and white accent pave:

Julie Bowen in Champagne Diamond Stud Earrings with White Diamond Micropave

Julie Bowen wore 5.11ct Rustic Gray Sliced Diamond Ring in 18kt White Gold with 4 Round Brilliant Diamonds and Micropave

Also wearing colored diamonds in sculptural cuts was actress Kelly MacDonald, in these stunning drop earrings, and a couple of lovely rings with micropave:

Kelly MacDonald Wearing Martin Katz Drop Earrings

Oval Orange Diamonds in 18kt Rose Gold Earrings set with 2 Pear Shape Rustic Diamond and Square Rustic Diamond (totalling over 40cts of diamonds)

Actress Gabourey Sidibe looked radiant in gorgeous color, especially the dramatic Amethyst and Diamond pave earrings:

Gabourey Sidibe in Martin Katz Amethyst and Diamond Earrings

Oval Cabochon Amethyst Earrings, 24.96 ct, in 18kt White Gold, Microset with 422 White Diamonds and 357 Amethysts (My Fav!)

Also making a more subtle, but no less wonderful appearance, was a pair of sophisticated Black Spinel and Diamond Cufflinks on Colin Firth:

Colin Firth's Cufflinks, 18k White Gold Black Spinel Diamond Corner Cuff Links

Martin Katz is not new to the Red Carpet: for nearly two decades, his designs have been beautifully represented by a number of celebrities. Among his devoted following are Nicole Kidman, Angelina Jolie, Salma Hayek, Jennifer Aniston, Cate Blanchette, Freida Pinto, and many more. Over the years he has dealt directly with people in his own home in Beverly Hills, or his exclusive showrooms in Beverly Hills and New York City. A select collection can also be viewed at Bergdorf Goodman.

idazzle Exclusive Interview with Martin Katz About 2011 Golden Globes Jewels

idazzle: You have been in the couture jewelry business long enough for your designs to go through some interesting transformations. Can you explain the inspiration and thought behind your current collection?
Martin Katz: Many of my current designs incorporate vivid colored gems in a spirited 1930’s contemporized look. I derive inspiration from Victorian jewelry, but use this concept in a simpler sense, which is embodied by my current collections. By surrounding large center stones with tiny multicolored stones such as green garnets, pink sapphires, amethysts and white diamonds, I am able to achieve this look.

Do you think that this collection and particularly the items worn, represent a larger theme for jewelry that we will see going forward?
MK: With the state of the current economy people have seemingly become more sensible, which has dictated a change in style. In terms of jewelry, pieces have become more colorful and suitable for every day wear. Obviously statement pieces will never retire, but it seems that they are taking a little break right now!

There seems to be an element of classic estate jewelry in some of your designs, suggesting old Hollywood glamour. How does vintage jewelry influence and inspire your current pieces?
MK: I began my career as a vintage jewelry dealer so my love for vintage pieces has always played an integral role in the design of my jewelry. I am always borrowing design concepts from the past to create my pieces for the present. Because of this, I like to say that my pieces have an old soul.

What kind of woman do you envision wearing your work? Do you have a specific muse?
MK: Women who wear my jewelry are typically self-confident and know what they like in design without being told. They are chic and stylish when they want to be, but do not feel compelled to always be perfectly coiffed. They admire art and have a deep appreciation for quality in all categories. My wife Kelly is my muse and is invaluable to me because she is a never-ending source of design ideas and insight as to what women want.

Martin Katz Opal and Diamond Ring with Amazing Pave

It seems as though you caught the jewelry bug early, with your fascination of how jewelry ornamentation affects people. Are you still captivated by that reaction? What else gives you motivation to keep creating?
MK: Having an artistic and “critical” eye is both my blessing and my curse. I am always observing how fashion and jewelry personify people. When it comes to the Red Carpet, it’s like a candy store of representation that all of us in the fashion world love to explore. Inspiration and motivation come from my wanting to create what others do not and finding a road less traveled when it comes to design direction. When the road fills with traffic again, I find it’s time to take a different route.

You have famously designed some non-jewelry ornaments, such as your 2007 wedding gown collaboration with Renee Strauss, and the 2008 Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra. What is your current focus in design right now, and does it go beyond jewelry?
MK: I am currently working on perfume bottles for a major fragrance group which will be announced sometime later this year.

I heard a rumor that you once walked the Red Carpet yourself ! Would you do it again?
MK: I once walked the Red Carpet alongside Sharon Stone, shortly after she starred in Basic Instinct. She proudly announced to the cameras that I was her jeweler, but in the early 1990’s the press wasn’t covering jewelry the way that they are today, or asking the questions they would today. If I were invited to walk the red carpet again, I would, but not by myself seeing as I’m not a celebrity!

Ha, I’m not so sure about that! Thank you so much Martin, for giving us your insight into jewelry trends and your inspiration right now!

About the Fabulous Jewelry of Martin Katz

Martin Katz’s first real experience with jewelry was selling sterling silver to other students in college, which grew into a larger fascination with the effect that jewelry had on people. His most recent designs are a mix of intricate micro-pave in colored gems arranged in randomly gorgeous, almost mathematical patterns, combined with luminous cabochon cut gemstones in spectral hues. Beyond the amazing gemstones, what is most impressive is the intricacy of the setting work and the way that the mechanics of the piece, like prongs and ring attachments, are transformed by setting skill into decorative pave. A signature collection that he is known for are his “Micro Bands“, where tiny gemstones of remarkably saturated color are set using a microscope, and can be collected and stacked. His other jewelry designs can be viewed at his website, www.martinkatz.com.

Martin Katz Cabochon Sapphire Ring with Pave Accent

View this post on idazzle.com: idazzle Exclusive: Martin Katz Jewelry at the 2011 Golden Globes

I want to humbly thank all the jewelry designers that I was able to interview in 2010. I loved getting a glimpse into the creative and fruitful minds of designers, whether they were solo artists laboring in their studios, or teams of creative minds and skilled craftspeople.

Wendy Brandes Heart Bezel-Set Ring

Wendy Brandes made me laugh and makes me think, pushing the fine jewelery world with her swear rings and teeny geenies.

Evelyn Huang was all about beauty and precision with her award-winning designs.

Leon Mege was a pleasure to meet in his storied penthouse studio where he and his team of platinum-smiths create some of the most amazing pave work I have ever seen.

The designers of Herndon Heald were as warm and interesting as their handmade jewelry crafted in their Austin and Santa Fe studios.

Herndon Heald Rose Gold Rings

Cheryl Lynn Greenspoon was a delight as she explained her tight, cohesive collections.

Christian Tse–part artist, part mad-genius scientist–was gracious as he took me through a creative tour of what goes through his mind while designing his truly extraordinary colored diamond and custom-gold creations.

Christian Tse Fancy Colored Green Diamond Ring

Lindsay Caleo gave me a small glimpse into her lovely and imaginative world where she creates small, wearable sculptures that are her jewelry designs.

Kara Ackerman wrapped up the year with a tour through her inventive collections, changing the landscape of affordable and creative jewelry.

Along the way, I also wrote about ring trends, awesome retailers like Greenwich Jewelers in NYC, and why it’s ok to reset your engagement ring. I couldn’t have done it without readers sending me comments and questions, and people pushing me to see beyond what is obvious.

One of my resolutions this year is to pay attention to story-tellers. Whether this is art, dance, film, literature, or my children, I want to be able to be still and listen. Thank you for letting me tell these stories.

Caleo Cloud Earrings in Labradorite and Gold

View this post on idazzle.com: Welcome 2011! New Year, more idazzle…

IcedOrchid.com sent me a lovely pair of earrings, as an example of their jewelry quality. Alas, I can’t keep them: it’s not a gift to me in exchange for a favorable review. I didn’t want anything to potentially color my review, so I sent them back. But I’m not sure I wanted to!

IcedOrchid.com Engagement Ring Setting with Round Center Diamond

The IcedOrchid.com Company

I’ve been aware of IcedOrchid.com for a while, but it was their recent mention in a Glamour.com article about engagement rings under $1850 that really got my attention. I went to their site and checked out the ring–I was absolutely convinced that the $1762 price quoted was just for the mounting, not the center stone diamond as well. To my surprise, the white gold setting was completed by a .50 carat round diamond with a nice cut (AGS 1 rating), color (F), and clarity (SI1), with a lab report from the pinnacle of reputable labs, American Gem Society Laboratory.

The company, started recently, but with many years of experience in the jewelry industry, tries very hard for that excellent value proposition. They say that they target an entry-level price point in the market, but I find their offerings to be classic and enduring styles (unlike some of the awful things I’ve seen in malls). On their clean, simple site you can find a large assortment of engagement ring and wedding band designs, as well as a small collection of diamond jewelry such as earrings, pendants and bracelets. But would the jewelry itself live up to the quality and construction that they promise to consumers on their site?

IcedOrchid.com Engagement Ring Setting with Baguette Side Stones

The Review

The earrings I reviewed are the 1.50 Ct Tw Inside-Out Diamond Hoops in white gold, $1761 Retail. They are named “Inside Out” because the front of the hoop is set with diamonds, and the inside of the back of the hoop is also set, which is what you see from the front. I thought these would be a good to review because they are a great gift idea or jewelry essential for a jewelry collection. Plus, they would show IcedOrchid.com’s typical diamond quality, how well they match their stones, their diamond-setting skill, polish and finishing.

The earrings arrived very securely packaged, and I finally uncovered the fancy wood and leather-ette presentation box containing the earrings inside. For some reason, I was pleasantly surprised by how much the diamonds sparkled against the black lining of the box. Maybe it’s the reasonable price, maybe I’m just jaded, but I’ve seen a lot of mediocre quality out there for diamond basics. These earrings are REALLY pretty.

Inside-Out Diamond Hoops 1.50 Ct Tw, $1761 Retail

There are 60 diamonds totaling 1.50 carats, and all are listed at G-H color and VS2 clarity. I 10X-louped them in the setting, which isn’t quite like seeing them unmounted, but that quality appears to be what is set into the earrings I received. No major flaws, and all bright white in the white gold setting. Though each diamond itself is small, in the clean straight-line shared prong setting they have a lot of presence, even from across the room. I liked how short and curved the posts are, because they won’t tip forward on your ear and expose the earring hole, and they have a hinged closure that has a satisfying *snap* to close (makes them feel very secure on the ears).

Scale is one of the most challenging parts of ordering ANYTHING on line, especially for jewelry which is not branded. The detail pages on IcedOrchid.com’s website helpfully lists all the details of each piece of jewelry, but really, does anyone know what 26 X 1.6 MM really looks like? The 1.50 carat pair has a hoop diameter almost exactly that of a US quarter, so you can hold that up to your ear and get a feel for the scale.

This is a VERY wearable size and style of diamond hoop earring. Personally for myself, I would want a larger diameter, but I like pretty bold jewelry. The carat weight, scale, sparkle and finish of these make these earrings the perfect jewelry essential of a diamond hoop for most people. If someone is quite demure in their style, then diamond stud earrings or the 1 carat total weight of these same hoops would be good. (Hint to IcedOrchid: maybe make a larger diameter pair, maybe 30MMs with 2 Carats or so of diamonds–those I would NOT send back! Edited after published, I found this pair of 2 Ct TW Inside Out Hoops with a 28mm diameter on their site.)

Trio of Classic Rings From IcedOrchid.com

A Little Q and A with IcedOrchid.com

idazzle.com: What is the history and story of the company and founders?

IcedOrchid.com: IcedOrchid.com is a young American company, founded by a family that has been involved in the jewelry business for years. What began as a spirited family discussion regarding the direction of the industry turned into words of action in the creation of IcedOrchid.com. IcedOrchid.com was established as an online retail store, to market beautiful yet affordable diamond jewelry to people who thought they could never afford luxury. Targeting the bottom of the pyramid for luxury, IcedOrchid.com’s mission is to show the average working man or woman that luxury diamond jewelry is available to them at a fair price without compromising quality.

What do you feel is unique or special about the IcedOrchid.com company and website (in other words, why should customers shop with you)?

What separates IcedOrchid.com from its competitors is the company’s effort to keep the engagement process as simple, stress-free and enjoyable as possible through its easy-to-use website. While the company has a large inventory and thousands of styles, it doesn’t display everything it carries. Rather, the products that are displayed are those that follow seasonal trends as well as those backed by research statistics on best selling items. Even the promotions the company runs are direct and target the audience its products are tailored for. Further, IcedOrchid.com is unique in that all its products come from a single source ensuring top quality while also allowing it’s diamond consultants to personally check or inspect an item upon request from a customer.

Do you have some exciting things launching/happening in 2011?

IcedOrhcid.com starts 2011 with an exciting contest running on Facebook called “Operation Proposal”target=_blank. This contest is run in collaboration with Operation Gratitude, a NGO that sends care packages to deployed soldiers around the worlds. “Operation Proposal” is open to every American who has a valid military card and to veterans as well. Contestants are encouraged to upload photos and stories of their proposals (past or future) on IcedOrchid.com’s Facebook page, and then get their friends and families to support their entries. The contest ends on Feb 6th with the winner being announced on Valentine’s day. The contestant with the highest number of votes will win him/herself a gorgeous diamond engagement ring worth $4500.

Also, on January 15th 2011, IcedOchid.com offers consumers a unique opportunity to see its jewelry display in person at booth 718 at the Hartford CT Bridal Expo!

Come March 2011, IcedOrchid.com will be launching its first spring collection! Keep visiting the website www.icedorchid.com and its Facebook page to view new styles, new diamonds and other exciting additions.

Thank you, IcedOrchid.com for sending the earrings for review, and sharing your thoughts about your company! I like what you’re doing so far with your website! One suggestion that would make the shopping experience even better is to have really *snappy* images of the jewelry–when you are online, you have one chance to impress the customer! Also, illustrating scale of the jewelry, like a photo of it on a model, or against something that shows its dimensions. I recommend paying attention to the way that the best fashion sites represent things, and of course, disclosing all the details about the quality, as you are doing. Can’t wait to see IcedOrchid.com’s Spring 2011 collection!

View this post on idazzle.com: Retailer Spotlight: Review of IcedOrchid.com

But now it’s 14 years later, and that Marquise cut in 14kt yellow gold has snagging prongs and a certain, how shall we say, patina about it. Your love hasn’t changed, but your style definitely has, and the jeweler is saying that the setting, worn faithfully through vacations, dinner parties, desk jobs and diaper changes, needs some maintenance.

Engagement rings incorporate diamonds primarily because their beauty and durability represent a symbol of eternal love. The reality is that there can be a finite life for the metals that the diamonds are set into, due to wear and tear. But there’s another little secret: maybe style is a finite entity, too. Perhaps the ring design never really {ahem} reflected your taste to begin with. Or maybe it’s just that your style has become more defined as the years pass. At some point in your married life you might catch yourself gazing at your ring and wondering…what if?

Have a Marquise (or Pear or Oval) shape? This Danhov Halo Setting can make this cut look its elegant best. Style ME160 available from Samuel Gordon Jeweler.

Every relationship is different, but I think it can be a good thing to change your setting, or even your whole ring including the center stone, to reflect who you are. The important thing is what the ring symbolizes: you may change your ring, but the sentiment attached stays the same.

Want something more than a basic solitaire? This Annalise setting by Erica Courtney is a modern take on a feminine curved setting. Added bonus is that your diamond will look lots bigger surrounded by those accent diamonds.

First Step: Research

Once you’ve broached the subject with your significant other–highly recommended–then it’s time to do some research. Pay attention to people’s rings as you go about your daily life. If someone has gotten engaged recently, make a note of whether you like the style or not. Or check out the Top Engagement Trends or Beautiful Bezels articles on this site, there are some great designs to start your day dreaming, and lots of Jewelry Designer links to explore in our Trusted Links section.

This Nicholas James setting is sleek, sculptural and practical. Shown in Platinum with round accent diamonds, contact Nicholas James for more information.

Try It On!

Once you have a few ideas or tear sheets, GO SHOPPING! It’s kind of like the wedding dress, where you dreamed of a particular style, then you tried it on and realized it was as flattering as, well, Bjork’s Swan Dress. Just like clothes, you must see diamonds and rings in person and try them on. This is not a decision to take lightly, it’s probably the most sentimental and costly piece of jewelry you own!

On the other hand, don’t be paralyzed into indecision because you’re afraid of making a mistake: remember that wisdom and experience gleaned from already wearing your ring will help guide you to something that makes sense for your life right now. If your ring sat too high for you to wear comfortably, go low or prong-less for the next setting. Did you diamond seem too small for your finger? Try a halo of diamonds around the stone to make it appear much more significant. If your ultra-traditional setting didn’t suit your avant-garde sense of style, seek out an independent designer to do the next ring.

Bezel settings can be an amazing update for a sleepy diamond. Wendy Brandes designs these substantial bands with flawless bezels flattering the center diamond to be all-in-one engagement/wedding rings.

The Logistics

Once you find a style that makes your heart beat faster, you need an expert to help you figure out if that setting will work with your stone. Some settings will need new prongs, or a new bezel, to fit your particular stone. Sometimes the whole ring needs to be custom made around the stone and your finger size.

Want ultra-clean and modern? Completely custom-made for each diamond, this compression-set solitaire setting by Steven Kretchmer Designs holds the diamond with 12,000 pounds per square inch of pressure. Setting alone starts at around $2000 Retail, Avail at Lux Bond and Green.

At some point in the process, there will come a time when you will have to leave your diamond with the designer or jeweler to make a wax mold or to re-set it. Here’s a refresher of my tips for leaving your ring or stone with a jeweler (for an in-depth article about leaving your jewelry for repair or appraisal, click here):

1. Bring in your appraisal or diamond lab report, if you have one, to the jeweler.
2. Look at the stone with the jeweler, under magnification, and decide together how to identify the stone: most diamonds will have some distinguishing characteristic to identify under 10 power magnification.
3. Discuss a value that you and the jeweler are both comfortable with for the diamond or ring to be insured while at the jeweler.
4. Get that value in writing, along with a description of the specific work to be done, on a repair form that you sign.
5. When you go back to pick the ring up, have the jeweler help you identify your diamond again.

Looking for a ring that doesn't have an Engagement Ring vibe? This Milky Way ring by Nina Basharova makes a beautiful statement whether on the right or left hand, and can be totally customized to your diamond. Avail from Manika Jewelry.

Bottom Line

You don’t need to feel guilty or bad about changing your setting: you should feel nothing but joy when you look at the ring on your finger! We hope this information helps start you on the path to a new, gorgeous setting if you need to change your ring for any reason. If you need help finding your ring, drop me a line here and I can set you up with an amazing retailer or designer in your area.

If you're looking for unusual, this Lotus setting from Gemvara has amazing details. In 18kt Yellow Gold with round accent diamonds, $9102 with a 1.02 ct Round Diamond in center.

View this post on idazzle.com: How to Reset Your Engagement Ring (and Why It’s Okay to Change Your Mind)

Christian Tse 18kt Yellow Gold 10.00 Ct. Natural Fancy Yellow Diamond Engagement Ring with Fancy Yellow Accent Pave, Price upon Request

Christian Tse Background

Christian is a third generation jeweler, which helps to explain his design aesthetic and his studio’s skill: there is a confidence of composition in his designs. He launched the Christian Tse line in 1996 with his platinum and gold mesh jewelry, with collections that were influenced by his family’s business of designing 24 karat gold jewelry for Chinese weddings. I first saw his platinum and gold jewelry at fine independent jewelry stores in the late 1990′s and was impressed with how well-made the jewelry was, and how great it felt to wear it. NO ONE else in the industry was doing anything remotely like this. He went on to win a couple of Couture Awards for Best Design in Platinum, in 2000 and 2002.

Christian Tse 18kt White Gold Drop Earrings with 18.42 cts TW of Amethyst and 1.96 cts TW Pave Diamonds, $13,900 Retail

Christian Tse Jewelry Designs

After his success with his precious metal designs, Christian turned his eye towards gemstones and fancy color diamonds. He creates some truly memorable rings, earrings, and necklaces using gemstones combined with finely-wrought micro pave diamonds. Each piece is made by hand in their Pasadena loft studio, allowing ultimate control and perfect execution of his creations. Every detail, down the exact alloy of metal to match or contrast with each gemstone is carefully considered. He and his wife Victoria have been described as the “yin and yang” of their business, with a wonderful balance of hard work and honest communication with their staff and clients, but truly passionate about jewelry and their craft.

Christian Tse Geometric Drop Earrings in 18kt White Gold with Fancy Vivid Yellow-Orange Diamonds totaling 3.94 cts and 3.57 cts Pave Diamonds, Price upon Request

Christian Tse Timepieces

Christian’s innovative use of color is already apparent with his diamond and gemstone jewelry, but his true genius is revealed in his recently-launched watch designs, the aptly named “Prismatic Timepieces”. These watches feature amazing gemstones paired with bands made of stingray and other exotic textures, in arresting color combinations and patterns. But here’s the thing: the time is actually not apparent when looking at them–you must hit a hidden stem that then displays the time in diamonds that light up for a few seconds. Since some people have abandoned watches all together in the age of cell phones and devices that tell time down to the atomic second, this approach frames watches as gorgeous jewelry that you change with your outfit. It pushes the concept of time.

Christian Tse Desert Rose Watch on Strap

Christian Tse Interview

idazzle.com: Three words: Fancy Color Diamonds! How did you come to focus on designing fancy color diamonds? I read the recent JCK article where you serendipitously connected with a crazy-rare 4.5ct fancy vivid blue diamond. How do you approach these projects? Do you usually acquire the colored diamond first, then take your time formulating the design around it? Or do you have a certain color combination and design in mind, then go source the center diamond?
Christian Tse: I have always had a fascination for fancy color diamonds, though in my early years of business I could not afford to purchase fancy color diamonds. My very first fancy color diamond was a natural black diamond.
I approach each diamond as an individual project. Each diamond has its unique color and shape. The center diamond is the primary influence on the color combination for the design. I usually carry the diamond around and constantly look at it in different lights, i.e. day light, incandescent light, florescent light, twilight and so on to truly feel and experience the color. Once I’ve spent time with the diamond I come up with the design. We also alloy our gold colors to match and enhance the fancy color diamond.

Christian Tse Natural Fancy Green Diamond Ring, Price upon Request

What is your favorite color combination in all of your designs? Do you have an all-time favorite?
My favorite color for a diamond is a Natural Vivid Orange. Blue and pink diamonds go hand in hand. It also makes for a fantastic color combination.

So you make all of your jewelry in your studio/atelier in Pasadena? It’s becoming quite unusual to actually craft jewelry in the US, let alone under one roof. Do you feel this has an impact on the design process, quality and finishing of your work?
Manufacturing in the USA has always been my top priority as the trend is to move work over to other countries. I make a conscious effort in planning for long-term growth with our clients in acquiring advanced technical equipment for our facility. I have much better control over quality and design when I can be a part of every stage of crafting the pieces.

Christian Tse 18kt White Gold Asian-motif Square Bracelet with 10.51 ct TW Pave Diamonds, $29,000 Retail

Who or what is the biggest influence in your life? Any particular muse?
Fashion influences my work in a big way. I love to see the colors and textures that are working through the runways.

Tell me about your watches. What inspired you to venture into watch design? Who did you envision wearing them when you designed them?
I have always envisioned lighting up diamonds. One day I was trying to design a ring that would light up the center diamond, and one thing lead to another and the Prismatic Timepiece was born! My latest creation is the Radiance Collection. It’s a natural extension of my love for color. The collection emulates luxury through a celebration of vibrant colored baguette gemstones featuring sapphires and topazes and diamond bezel settings. The people who wear and adore my watches are chic, fashionable jet setters, often celebrities, from Russia to New York, Shanghai to Dubai.

Christian Tse Radiance Collection 38mm Rose Gold and Gemstone Watch on White Alligator Band, $15,000 Retail

What does your design process look like? Chaos or order ?
My approach to design is systematic. I am very particular on angles and measurements. The feel and wear of each design is closely followed. Proportions are closely paid attention to.

Early in your design career you did some very inventive designs with precious metals in interesting textures. Currently you are doing some very interesting things with precious gems as the focus. Do you prefer one particular medium?
I believe as time passes, and as I grow as an individual, my designs continue to evolve as well. I often search for the next influence in my designs. I am constantly challenging myself to push the envelope to develop new techniques, new materials, and new ideas. Who knows what medium I will be working on, maybe titanium, maybe concrete?

The designer himself, Christian Tse!

Thank you, Christian! You can find Christian’s designs in Neiman Marcus stores and a few fine boutiques across the country. If you would like to inquire about a design or find a retailer near you, contact his studio here.

View this post on idazzle.com: Designer Spotlight: An Interview with Jewelry Designer Christian Tse

Cheryl Lynn Aphrodite Necklace in 18kt Pink Gold and Black Diamonds, $3000 Retail

The Aphrodite Collection

Cheryl Lynn’s Aphrodite series was her first collection, and features sinuous lines intersecting in an open wire design. Some or all of the design, depending on the piece, is outlined in a precise line of sparkling diamonds, which gives emphasis to the delicacy of the curves and angles. My favorites in this collection are the station necklaces, which would look amazing layered up with other Cheryl Lynn pieces or something else from your own collection. The Aphrodite earrings are also lovely and quite distinctive, with the larger circle dangling and catching the light below the smaller round circle on the ear.

Cheryl Lynn Aphrodite Cuff Bracelet in 18kt Gold and Diamonds, $12,000 Retail

The Cheryl Lynn CL Collection

The Cheryl Lynn CL collection incorporates familiar shapes like circles, wavy lines, and open diamonds making a distinctive pattern across hoop earrings, rings, and–my favorite–cuff bracelets. The open shapes framed by rails of gold or diamonds create interesting negative space where skin almost becomes part of the design. I especially like the contrast of the white against yellow, or the black diamonds in the white background.

Cheryl Lynn CL Collection Ring in 18kt White Gold and Black Diamonds

The Hearts Collection

If you are a romantic looking for a fresh take on heart jewelry, you should check out Cheryl Lynn’s Hearts collection. These designs are clean and un-ruffled, but still express the sentiment with lots of style and energy. I especially like these heart rings that can stack and end up looking quite abstract.

Cheryl Lynn Double Heart Ring in 18kt Gold and Diamonds

The Interview

idazzle.com: How long were you working in jewelry before you launched your designs in 2007?
Cheryl Lynn: Making jewelry was always a hobby of mine. I’ve been beading since I was a child, but didn’t get into metals until shortly before I launched the company.

How did this evolve? Were you making jewelry for private clients and decided you had a collection?
Exactly!

Cheryl Lynn CL Collection Hoop Earrings in 18kt White Gold and Diamonds, $4000 Retail

We’re so glad you decided to change your career from TV producer to jewelry maker and designer! Did you have an epiphany at some point that made you decide to pursue jewelry full-time?
As much as I loved production it just wasn’t creative enough for me. I spend a lot of my down time beading and wirewraping and found myself happiest in those moments therefore decided to take it on full time.

Do you make the jewelry yourself at the bench? If not, where is it produced?
My jewelry is produced in New York. I used to make jewelry at the bench. I would start making things out of metal and get a basic design and then I would give that to a model maker to perfect. Now, I design everything on CAD and send the files to a casting company I use in New York, where my setter/finishers are as well.

My pieces are all manufactured in the US. Even my diamond dealers are based here. We feel we are able to achieve a higher level of quality in the US rather than off shore. Also, we get better and more accurate delivery times due to our control over the entire manufacturing process. This is something critical especially in the fine jewelry market.

Did you launch with just one collection, or all three of your distinct lines?
I launched Aphrodite Collection first.

Cheryl Lynn Aphrodite Cufflinks in 18kt White Gold, $1200 Retail

The circle motif in the CL collection is so familiar, yet you have re-interpreted this design. Would you call it your signature design?
Not really to be honest, I like to call the Aphrodite Collection my signature design because it was my first. However, basic shapes like the circles and hearts seem to be most popular, so these are more my classics.

Where did the inspiration for the Aphrodite Collection come from?
The Aphrodite Collection started with me taking wire and basically playing with it. I was creating shapes with it and soldering it in all different places. I knew I wanted to make a ring with borders on the top and bottom and a free form design in the middle, so I went with it and it was a success!

Cheryl Lynn Aphrodite Ring in 18kt White Gold and Diamonds, $2400 Retail

What made you want to re-interpret the heart motif?
A lot of people like hearts but don’t like them in jewelry because they find them very basic and boring. I just wanted to find a way to make them a little different so people will actually wear them.

Celebrities such as Zoe Saldana and Emma Roberts have been spotted wearing your designs. Is there a particular person you would love to see in your designs?
I am a huge Sandra Bullock supporter and fan. She has such classic, chic style.

Cheryl Lynn Stacking Wave Bands in 18kt Yellow, Pink, and White Gold

What’s in store for the future of Cheryl Lynn Jewelry?
Many more designs, staying true to my aesthetic but incorporating other interesting materials such as raw diamonds, wood and enamel. Watch this space!

Oh, we’ll definitely be watching! You can see the rest of her collection and contact her studio through her website. You can find Cheryl Lynn’s designs in person at a few retailers across the country such as Aspen Jewel Box and Nina at Fred Segal in Santa Monica, CA, and online at retailers Max&Chloe.

View this post on idazzle.com: Designer Spotlight: An Interview with Jewelry Designer Cheryl Lynn Greenspoon