*Just in time for Valentine’s Day, Aroc Urtu has arranged for an amazing 20% discount on any orders from their site now through March 1st, 2012, using code vday2012.*

Aroc Urtu Ruby Rings

The Jewelry of Aroc Urtu

The jewelry of Aroc Urtu sits close to the body, warms to the touch, and patinas with wear and time. In short, this is jewelry that feels as good as it looks. It also has a conscience: all of their metals are recycled, diamonds and gemstones are from non-conflict sources, and all pieces are manufactured in New York City versus overseas.

Aroc Urtu has a few different collections, each with their own unique feel and energy. Their Beach Stone jewelry collection is perhaps most evocative of their signature style. Beach stones in soothing colors, polished naturally smooth by countless years in the water and sand, were washed up on shore to be discovered by the designers personally. This, and the contrast of the sharply faceted precious stones set seamlessly into them, define their style perfectly. Recycled gold and silver add a touch of responsible shine to the designs.

Flora and Fauna riff on other themes from nature: twigs and branches, feathers, cute little bunnies, serpentine snakes. Everything is textural, almost as if it’s been cast from the real thing (though in the case of the rabbit, not!). Mezcla, intriguingly named, consists of interesting outlines and cuts of gemstones, not perfectly symmetrical, set softly into sterling silver and 14kt gold.

Aroc Urtu White Beach Stone Earrings with Pink Sapphires in Sterling Silver, Retail $232.

Their most recent design foray delves into the engagement ring category. Aptly named “I DO“, it’s a collection for those looking for something other than a traditional prong-set round brilliant diamond. Softly hued natural diamond slices or rose cuts are bezel set into silver, rose and yellow gold settings. Simple pave eternity bands pair with the organic shapes beautifully, and even sparkle through the diamond slices. Also in the collection are necklaces, bracelets and earrings for wearing or presenting for the big wedding day, all with a very natural aesthetic.

Stack of Aroc Urtu I DO rings with natural color slice and rose cut diamonds in rose, yellow and white gold that enhance their beauty.

The Aroc Urtu Interview

idazzle: What was the inspiration and impetus of your new “I Do” collection?
Aroc Urtu: There aren’t many jewelers in the market right now catering to brides who are looking for earthier more organic pieces on their big day. We’re trying to fill that void with Aroc Urtu I DO, which focuses on unique, one of a kind gems like diamond slices, rough diamonds and rosecuts set in anything from engagement rings and wedding bands to bridesmaids gifts and symbolic jewels.

Aroc Urtu Rose Cut Black Diamond stud earrings set in Sterling Silver, Retail $468.

Aroc Urtu Emerald Slice Necklace in 14kt gold on an adjustable natural leather cord, Retail $1325.

Wow, you do that yourself!!? It’s even more impressive than I thought! What was the original inspiration of setting the faceted stones into the smooth beach stones?
We’ve both been collectors of stones and shells for years. To us, the untreated beach stones we’ve been finding on beaches around the world are equally as beautiful as fine gemstones that are cut and polished by stonecutters. It seemed only natural to combine the two to achieve that perfect balance of sparkly and earthy.

Aroc Urtu Diamond Dotted Branch Earrings in oxidized Sterling Silver, Retail $500.

Aroc Urtu Square Rough Cut Diamond set into yellow gold, shown with eternity band.

Your pieces sit so low and comfortable to the body. Do you think that jewelry design is moving towards ergonomic versus traditional prongs?
Lauren: Personally we prefer a ring that has the stones sitting as low to the finger as possible. Some stones are cut deep (height from the bottom, or culet, of the stone to the top, or table). Sapphires, for example, often require a deep bottom to maximize color intensity. In these instances the stone dictates how low it can be. But often times stones, particularly diamonds, are set way up high as a way to basically show them off. Not our taste. Even with faceted gemstones we keep them as low as possible, whether it is bezel or prong set, for a more understated look. One of the things we love so much about slices is that they have a flat bottom and can sit right on the finger.

A signature of many of your pieces are the beach stones, many of which you source yourselves on travels. With all the press recently, any danger that you will run out of stones?
Sarah: It’s funny because there was a time that we were definitely worried about that. Luckily, there’s no shortage of beach stones on the beach in front of our family home in Bridgehampton. Sometimes we send the boys out during high tide with shovels to scoop bunches of them up into buckets. We’re also lucky enough to have great friends who are kind enough to bring back stones from their travels around the world. It’s the best way to have variety!

Aroc Urtu Beach Stone necklace with champagne diamond slice in rose gold bezel and chain, Retail $1200.

You are committed to responsible manufacturing: recycled metals, zero environmental impact with your beach stones, even your packaging is hemp! Has this been more difficult than traditional manufacturing?
Lauren: When we started out two years ago vendors would look at us like we were speaking martian when we’d ask if they used recycled metals. Now, while still the exception, it is much easier to find jewelers, casters, etc. who are working from the perspective of environmental responsibility. Awareness of conflict diamonds and rubies from Burma that were supporting the oppressive government has increased tremendously as has our own government’s vigilance over the importation of these “dirty stones”. And while, yes, it is easier to work in ways that harm the Earth less, being aware of our roles as caretakers of this miraculous planet we live on requires constant effort. While Sarah and I see many of our fellow designers moving production overseas to keep expenses down, we have chosen to keep everything here in NYC where we can be more vigilant. We also believe in and support the talent of our local jewelers who are watching jobs go overseas at an ever increasing rate.

How would someone go about custom designing a piece of Aroc Urtu jewelry?
We try to accommodate all custom requests as long as they’re in line with the vibe of the brand. We’ll always stay true to using only Kimberly certified diamonds, non-Burmese rubies, and recycled metals. Email us at sarah@arocurtu.com and Lauren@arocurtu.com if you have an inquiry and we’ll be happy to discuss any custom requests you may have!

Aroc Urtu Eternity Bands, featuring hand-cut micro-pave details in rose, yellow and white gold, Retail $1800 each band.

What’s the most interesting custom design request that you have received?
One of our favorite custom orders was for a client who wanted some fabulous earrings to wear to her sister’s wedding. They had to be earthy to go with her personal style, yet elegant enough to make a statement at the over-the-top black tie event. We created a pair of chandelier earrings that had approximately 20 carats of autumn colored sliced diamonds and almost two carats of rose cut white diamonds. Needless to say, they were a big hit.

They sound fabulous! Where can readers find your designs?
For one, on our website www.arocurtu.com. We’re also carried in select specialty boutiques like Thistle & Clover in Brooklyn, Albertine in the West Village, and The Styleliner – a unique mobile shopping experience! Be sure to check the stockists page of our website for updates!

Aroc Urtu new earring design for Fall 2012.

What’s next for Aroc Urtu?
Lauren: Sarah and I couldn’t be more excited about our two upcoming collections. For summer we’re launching our Sea, Sand, and Sky collection that will incorporate Thai Gold, seafoam emeralds, and water blue sapphires. And for fall we’ve become obsessed with baroque pearls (I told you not to get me started), sliced rubies and emeralds with pave diamonds. We can’t wait to show you!

Where and How to Find Aroc Urtu Jewelry

If you would like to purchase Aroc Urtu’s designs, visit their website at www.arocurtu.com, or to visit a store that carries their designs you can find a location here. As a special Valentine’s Day, you can take 20% off of any jewelry on their site, Feb 1st through March 1st, 2012, using code vday2012 at check out. It’s an amazing opportunity to own a piece of wearable art at a justifiable price!

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Aroc Urtu Jewelry Interview

Jordan Alexander Necklace Containing 300 Year Old Yemen Prayer Beads, Moonstones, Pave Diamond Beads and Clasp

Jordan Alexander Jewelry Background

So who can make pearls go from tepid to trend? The designer responsible for Jordan Alexander’s aesthetic is Theresa Bruno. A native of Alabama, Theresa grew up surrounded by the tradition of jewelry in the south. The pearls and jewelry collections of her mother and grandmother definitely made an impression, with their fine workmanship and classic styles. But when Theresa began designing her own jewelry in 2010, she wanted something serious but with a twist: a way to wear materials that are recognizably fine, but in a fresh way that can go from office to grocery store to night out effortlessly.

Jordan Alexander Pave Diamond Double Loop Diamond Slice Earrings

The Jewelry of Jordan Alexander

In addition to a selection of core designs, Jordan Alexander releases new collections of jewelry each season. Looking over the collection for Fall 2011, I was struck by the variety of materials: Jasper, Tiger Eye, Chysolite, Pyrite, tea-dyed bone, wood, Moonstone, and antique Yemen prayer beads, to name just a few. The jewelry is a reset of combination expectations, with rough-textured black lava happily coexisting with luminous pearls or twinkling pave beads.

Jordan Alexander Peacock Baroque Pearl Necklace with Diamond Pave Links and Clasp

My favorites? I would layer the 42 inch Navy or Beige Pearl strands with the 28 inch versions with a tassle. Or the long Sandalwood or Bone beads with shorter leather macrames woven with creamy pearls and diamonds. I could have the mother of all arm parties with an ivory or beige pearl bracelet, layered with crocheted multi-strands with sparkling black spinels, and finished with macrame woven with a pave diamond disc. I genuinely covet almost any of her earring designs, but especially love the pave buttons paired with the antique Yemen prayer bead drops: drama, beauty and history all in one sophisticated package.

Jordan Alexander Peacock Bracelet Twist Bracelet with Diamond and Sapphire Beads

The Interview with Jordan Alexander Jewelry

idazzle.com: When did Jordan Alexander Jewelry officially launch, and what was the ultimate impetus to make the jump into fine jewelry design?
Teresa Bruno of Jordan Alexander: Jordan Alexander officially launched in August 2010. I had been designing my own pieces for about three years when I decided to start the company. I wanted a look that combined my grandmother’s classic sense of style with my own edgier sense. When I couldn’t find it, I decided to create my own. High-fashion individuals would repeatedly lift the pieces from around my neck and ask to purchase them, and eventually, my business partner and I laid the groundwork to take us to where we are today.

Where are your designs made, New York or Los Angeles? How has your history in Alabama influenced your designs?
I design when I am in both New York and L.A. I feed off of the amazing, creative individuals I work with, and am always pleasantly surprised by where I end up. Because a number of my pieces use such an unusual type of tying method, they are reproduced in LA. Being in Birmingham keeps me true to my southern roots and southern influence.

Do you feel that your background in classical music has impacted your designs?
I have always had a love and appreciation for beauty and artistry. In fact, I spent my childhood and early adult years training to be a classical musician. This training helped define me as a person and influenced my life’s creative journey as a musician, designer, arts educator and film producer.

Jordan Alexander White Agate and Baroque Pearl Necklace with Diamond Pave Links and Clasp

Can you tell us about your design process? For instance, how do you come up with such imaginative combinations of gems?
The actual design process may consist of working from sketches that are exact – working from drawings of designs that I envision – or, sometimes, it’s more fluid and evolves from seeing a specific material or certain finding I want to build on. I’m constantly trying to find creative uses for the materials I find. I look for elements to bring unexpected twists to my designs. I love combining traditional, classic elements like diamonds and other precious stones with rich, organic pieces like lava and moonstone. Perhaps my most recent example is how I’ve been working with diamond and pearl slices to create unique and more economical pieces.

What is the most interesting gem or material you have acquired so far? Have you been able to incorporate that into a design yet?
I certainly think the most interesting piece you’ll find in my designs is the 300-year-old Yemen prayer bead. These beads are pieces of antiquity that mothers prayed over for their children. Aside from being beautiful pieces, the history behind them makes them even more meaningful and valuable to use in my designs.

How does it feel to have the attention of people like WWD editors and the First Lady?! Did you have any sense when launching that your designs would resonate so quickly?
It’s an overwhelming honor, and I pinch myself from time to time to remind myself that this really happening. I put all of my creative energy into my work, and I see the amazing people I work with doing the same thing. To know that what we’re doing is impacting people on a level so much greater than ourselves is truly rewarding.

What is on the horizon for Jordan Alexander?
Right now, we’re expanding our presence across the country. As far as the actual line goes, we introduced our first set of enhancers and rings in Fall 2011. I’m looking forward to taking new concepts and expanding the collection to include more of those pieces.

Jordan Alexander Silver Ring with Quartz Slice and Diamonds

How and Where to Buy Jordan Alexander Jewelry

Many of the pieces are made in LA, but Theresa stays close to her roots by maintaining an office of the company in Birmingham, AL. You can contact them through the Jordan Alexander Facebook page. To see any of the items pictured here, or inquire about Jordan Alexander jewelry, you can find an extensive collection at Fragments New York City store in SoHo, or Fragments website. Contact them here or call 212.334.9588 to find out more. Jordan Alexander’s designs can also be found at other boutiques across the country, including Shari’s Place in Greenvale, NY and Marissa Collections in Naples, FL.

The designer of Jordan Alexander, Theresa Bruno at work

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Jordan Alexander Jewelry Interview

I just received a few images of her new collections, and they were so gorgeous, I had to share. There is a cohesive quality in the metal colors and textures, yet each piece is totally distinctive. I find the silhouettes incredibly on-trend and modern, yet there is a feeling of authentic ethnicity in the details.

Blackened Silver and 18K Gold Meus Designs Pave Colored Diamond Ring (Center Dia 6.49 cts, Other Dia Wt. 1.89 cts), $11,200 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Diamond & Milky Moonstone Oval Bezel Ring (Dia Wt. 2.25 cts), $5,390 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Champagne Diamond Tear Drop Earrings with Black Diamonds (Black Dia Wt: 5.66 cts, Champ Dia Wt. 0.80 cts), $7,600 Retail

Blackened Silver and 18K Gold Meus Designs Boulder Opal Ring with Diamonds (Dia Wt. .50 cts), $6,200 Retail

Blackened Silver & 18K Gold Meus Designs Champagne Diamond & Emerald Frame Chandelier Earrings (Dia Wt: 1.10 cts, Emerald Wt: 2.3 cts), $4,200 Retail

I covet any of these for my personal collection, but I would (figuratively) kill for the Boulder Opal ring and the Emerald and Diamond Silhouette Earrings. I look forward to seeing more from this talented designer!

View this post on idazzle.com: New Meus Designs

The creator of Meus Designs, Suneera Swarup, has debuted a collection that seems infused with the traditions and cultures of her native India, but utterly modern at the same time. She began designing as a young girl, starting first with textile design. This led to her exploring other surface mediums, until discovering jewelry. She finds inspiration in everything from the vibrant colors of India to an interesting Art Deco motif to music. Her textured, varied collections are all designed and handcrafted in her Los Angeles studio.

Meus Designs 18kt Gold and Blackened Silver Blue Sapphire Pave Teardrop Earrings, $3600 Retail

The Collections of Meus Designs

In the Influence Collection, black or brown diamonds and blackened silver metal stand in striking contrast to vibrant polished 18kt gold. Ancient symbols mingle, somehow cohesively, with Art Deco patterns and lines. There are pendants, suspended on layered leather cords, or strands made of gold, sterling and Ruby beads. Everything has an elegance to it, but looks like you could throw it on with jeans and be instantly glamorous in a strong, feminine way.

Meus Designs Small Framed Cross Ring in 18kt Rose Gold and .97 ct Diamonds

In her brand new collection, intriguing named Lure, Suneera has delved even deeper into playing with metal textures and colors. Deep, rich browns and blacks are highlighted with inlaid highly polished rose and yellow gold, or gleaming cabochon gems. There is definitely something suggesting mystery in this collection.

Meus Designs Lure Hoop Earrings in Blackened Silver with 18kt Gold and Cabochon Emeralds

Meus Designs also has a predominantly Sterling Silver line, named M Sterling. The jewelry in this collection incorporates similar motifs and textures as the other collections, but is crafted in silver, which makes it very collectible.

Meus Designs M Sterling Cross Ruby Ring

The Interview with Meus Designs Creator, Suneera Swarup

idazzle.com: Your shapes and motifs are totally original, as if you have been dreaming of these for years, and now the shapes are expressed in this precious jewelry. Does Meus have a specific Muse, something or someone you often use for inspiration?
Meus Designs: Originality is returning to the origin which is Nature. And nature never goes out of fashion. Aesthetic beauty rules our world in various fields, where form and functionality are inseparable. Meus is the synthesis of Art Deco, ancient traditions and eastern elements.

It sounds like you have a background in design, textile and other surfaces. What prompted your interest in jewelry design specifically?
I have always worked in fields involving color and creativity. In a larger industry, it is difficult to translate design work into actual products. With jewelry design, I feel I have a personal canvas where my design visions can be instantly realized. Plus, I have always had a love for jewelry, like most women do!

Meus Designs Stretch Bracelets with Peruvian Chalcedony and Pave Diamond Accents, $820, $6400, and $700 Retail from Top to Bottom

What does your studio process look like? Do you have specific gems that you design around, or do you design two dimensionally first and then source the stones?
I work both ways – Looking for new, unique material with a design direction in mind and vice versa.

Meus Designs 18kt Gold and Blackened Silver Pink Sapphire Oval Ring, $2140 Retail

Your use of recycled materials is very responsible and also a bit rare. Can you tell us how you decided to pursue this path, even though it’s not so easy?
Recycling and optimizing resources started as a necessity, and gradually became a efficient system, which we are proud to follow. Having a daughter who is passionate about the environment always keeps us in line too. I guess for that reason, she could be called a Muse for Meus!

You recently introduced the Lure Collection, when can we see more designs? Any other collections you can give a hint about?
We have some new pieces that will be completed later this spring that we are really excited about for the Lure collection! They fit in well with the current collections but add a different dimension to the line, particularly in the red-carpet category. There will certainly be collections added to Meus in time, but right now we are focused on expanding Lure.

Meus Designs Carved Turquoise Weave Earrings in 18kt Gold and Blackened Silver

It’s a bit rare that a very new designer would get noticed. Why do you think your designs have resonated with celebrities so quickly after your launch?
I am truly flattered and thankful to everyone who has appreciated my work. I like my designs to be timeless and ageless. I want my jewelry to be passed on as heirlooms; pieces that will hold value and sentiment. I am hoping this is feeling is reflected in the designs and celebrities, being artists in their own right, identify with this feeling.

Meus Designs Emerald Hook Necklace in 18kt Gold, Blackened Silver and Faceted Emerald Beads and Pave

Thank you so much, Suneera, for your thoughts and insights! Meus Designs has shown amazing promise in its first collections launched just in the last year. The word meus translates to “mine” or “belonging to me”, and Meus Designs shows a very strong sense of self and identity in its collection. You can find Meus Designs at Nina at Fred Segal in Santa Monica, Lissa Fine Jewelry in NY, and a few other select boutiques in the country: click here for a list. To contact Meus Designs about any of the jewelry you see here, visit MeusDesigns.com.

Meus Designs Serpent Earrings in 18kt Yellow Gold on Diamond Huggie Hoop

Meus Designs Stack of Bangles in 18kt Gold and Blackened Silver in Sophisticated Gem Colors, Most Styles Around $1000 Retail Each

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: An Interview with Meus Designs

It turns out that even the most non-hyperbole-prone observer would spontaneously say something theatrical when seeing these designs. They are just that daring.

Welcome to the world of Jemma Wynne, where high fashion meets jewelry meets Smithsonian-worthy gem specimens.

Jemma Wynne 18K Limited Edition Necklace with Bicolor Tourmaline, Pave and Rosecut Diamonds, $4,100 Retail; Available at Churchill, KS.

The Background

Jemma Wynne consists of two designers, Jenny and Stephanie, working side-by-side in their 5th Ave Atelier. Jenny grew up as the only girl in a family with three boys, and consequently spent a lot of time with her talented painter/artist mother. She credits the time her mother spent helping Jenny pursue her creative endeavors–painting classes, mosaics–for her focus on design as art. Stephanie, always creative and coloring in sketch books as a child, studied graphic design in college, paving the way for a career in something beautiful. They met while working for established jewelry designer Judith Ripka. They almost immediately recognized an affinity in design and purpose, and started Jemma Wynne officially in 2008.

Their goal was to create jewelery in precious materials that was not stuffy, fussy, or so trendy that women would hesitate to buy it for themselves. They passionately wanted jewelry that appealed to sophisticated women, but wanted it to be worn, mixed and layered. They manage to create jewelry that is dramatic and incredibly beautiful, but wearable, too.

Jemma Wynne 18K Limited Edition Earrings with Bicolor Tourmalines, Pave and Rosecut Diamonds, $8,090 Retail; Available at Jemma Wynne

The Jewelry of Jemma Wynne

Looking at their collection, you get the sense that jewelry is FUN. Gorgeous gemstones combine in unexpected ways. Shapes are definitely mixed up and recombined in ways that challenge traditional ideas of fine jewelry. Interesting details are layered, so that those who study and take a second look are rewarded.

Jemma Wynne Ankara Cabochon Rings in 18k with Rose Quartz, Cognac and White Diamonds $12,080 Retail; and Milky Aqua, Cognac and White Diamonds $8,930; Available at Churchill, KS.

Chances are that you have seen some of their designs in the press recently: Harper’s Bazaar in December 2010; InStyle in August 2010; mentions and features in LA Confidential, Town and Country.

Jessica Biel Wearing Jemma Wynne Cabochon Ring

The Interview with Stephanie and Jenny of Jemma Wynne

idazzle: How did the two of you meet?
Jenny: Coincidentally, Stephanie and I have followed very similar paths. We both were very artistic and creative growing up and while in college we stumbled into the world of jewelry making. It started as a hobby for both of us, and as we wore our pieces we began to develop small followings.
Stephanie: As my pieces gained popularity, I decided to put together a small collection and began selling to boutiques in New York City and New Jersey. After I graduated from American University with a Bachelors degree in graphic design, I began working in the design department of Judith Ripka as an assistant to the designer.
Jenny: As I started selling more of my pieces, I decided to start a small business selling my jewelry at private trunk shows where I developed a devout clientele. It didn’t take long for me to realize that I loved what I was doing and this was my passion, so during my next two summers I interned at Judith Ripka in the design and product development department. After I graduated from the University of Pennsylvania, I was hired full time and that is where Stephanie and I met in 2005. It was really our passion and creativity that drove us to start our own company only a few years later in 2008.

Jemma Wynne Signature Bangles in Rainbow of Gems

How did the original idea of Jemma Wynne germinate? What was the catalyst to forming a fine jewelry design company?
Jenny: Steph and I very quickly realized our shared passion for jewelry making and similar design aesthetic. We felt like we had new ideas and wanted to share our vision.
Stephanie: We believe that there is a story behind every piece of jewelry- it is something that is special and unique. Whether it is a gift from a loved one for a special occasion or a gift for oneself, it holds some significant meaning to its owner. We love to be a part of that feeling and process. Jewelry also allows us to be creative and we believe that a woman’s jewelry should be something that is treasured and always relevant.
Jenny: We draw inspiration from our own personal styles; Stephanie’s more polished and classic sensibility combined with my relaxed femininity is reflected in our designs. This approach appeals to both mothers and daughters alike, making Jemma Wynne a cross-generational brand. We create for any woman who appreciates fine craftsmanship, unexpected detail and embraces her individual style.

What was your first collection?
Jenny: The first piece we ever made was a bangle with a rubelite pear shape on one side with an oval rosecut diamond on the other. We got such an amazing response to it that it sparked the development of our signature bangles that has become a staple and the best sellers in our collection.

What is your favorite gemstone/material combination so far?
Stephanie: Our favorite gemstones are bicolor tourmalines- they are so vibrant! We strive to create jewelry that is exquisite and out of the ordinary. Our one of a kind line of limited edition pieces, made with rare bicolor tourmalines, takes raw and organic materials and modernizes them into chic, elegant creations unlike anything else in the world of fine jewelry.

18K Limited Edition Earrings with Emerald Cut Bicolor Tourmalines and Pave Diamonds, $12,600 Retail; Availale at Churchill, KS.

How and where do you have your designs actually fabricated? Are there challenges in sourcing your unusual gemstones and getting top-quality production of your finished pieces?
Stephanie: All of our pieces are handmade here in New York City. We are really lucky to be within walking distance to the Jewelry District in NYC where we are able to work with suppliers that acquire their materials from all over the world. Our diamond suppliers source all our diamonds from Antwerp and Israel. A few times a year, as we start to make our new collections, our stone suppliers from Brazil, Germany, and India make a special trip to our office to show us all their new merchandise. Once a year Jenny also takes an exotic trip and comes back with new and interesting materials. It’s always exciting to see what she will bring back.
Jenny: The craftsmanship and quality of our pieces is something that is extremely important to us, so having them fabricated down the street from our office where we can oversee the process from start to finish is a priority for us and avoids any major unwanted surprises in the finished piece.

How would you describe your key customer? Do you have a specific muse?
Jenny: We define our design aesthetic as the “cashmere hoodie” of jewelry–rich, but comfortable. The vision of Jemma Wynne is to create versatile jewelry for women who desire a sophisticated look, while still maintaining that casual ease. Our jewelry epitomizes the concept of everyday luxury and we feel that fine jewelry should not have to live in a jewelry box, waiting for the perfect occasion to be pulled out and worn. With this in mind, we create collections to provide our customer with high quality, unique pieces that are comfortable and practical enough to wear with jeans and a t-shirt, yet are special enough to complement the finest couture.
Stephanie: Our jewelry is cross-generational in that it appeals to both mothers and daughters alike; we create for women who appreciate fine craftsmanship, unexpected detail and embrace their individual styles.

How does it feel to have your designs worn by The First Lady?
Jenny: It is truly an honor to have our pieces worn by Mrs. Obama, one of our generation’s true fashion icons. She truly epitomizes the Jemma Wynne woman- her clothes and style are rich, yet she maintains that casual element which makes it seem effortless.

Michelle Obama Wearing Jemma Wynne

Do you create anything custom for special clients?
Stephanie: We started in this business creating custom pieces for our loyal private clients. It is such a fun process to have people come in and custom design a personalized piece of Jemma Wynne jewelry. Clients come to our Atelier where we show them an assortment of stones, see what they gravitate towards, and together we design an exquisite piece of one of kind jewelry for them.

What’s on the horizon in 2011? Anything you can tell us without having to kill us?
Jenny: 2011 will be an exciting year for Jemma Wynne. Our collection is constantly evolving and we are focusing on creating even more spectacular bangles, and, of course, expanding on our Limited Edition bicolor tourmaline pieces. We have many other things in store, but nothing we can share just yet ☺.

These women are designing some truly amazing jewelry, and I love everything about their vision, from their design philosophy, to how they have their jewelry made with such care in the U.S.! Their jewelry can be found in a few select stores in the country, including Churchill in Kansas City and Ikram in Chicago. To inquire about their jewelry, visit their website at www.jemmawynne.com.

Jenny and Stephanie of Jemma Wynne

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: Jemma Wynne

Last night, it was fun to be on official gem watch as the stars arrived on the Red Carpet, and then tweet live with other jewelry enthusiasts about the best (ok, and worst) ensembles. While admiring Claire Dane’s gorgeous cuff bracelet, the effusive diamonds of Sofia Vergara, and the unexpected old Hollywood glamour of Tina Fey’s Lorraine Schwartz earrings, I also kept my eyes peeled for Martin’s work.

And he did not disappoint, no less than four stars were dressed graciously in his jewels: Julie Bowen wore a stunning pair of rose-cut rich brown diamond studs, and a grey slice of diamond in a setting that channeled Art Deco with black and white accent pave:

Julie Bowen in Champagne Diamond Stud Earrings with White Diamond Micropave

Julie Bowen wore 5.11ct Rustic Gray Sliced Diamond Ring in 18kt White Gold with 4 Round Brilliant Diamonds and Micropave

Also wearing colored diamonds in sculptural cuts was actress Kelly MacDonald, in these stunning drop earrings, and a couple of lovely rings with micropave:

Kelly MacDonald Wearing Martin Katz Drop Earrings

Oval Orange Diamonds in 18kt Rose Gold Earrings set with 2 Pear Shape Rustic Diamond and Square Rustic Diamond (totalling over 40cts of diamonds)

Actress Gabourey Sidibe looked radiant in gorgeous color, especially the dramatic Amethyst and Diamond pave earrings:

Gabourey Sidibe in Martin Katz Amethyst and Diamond Earrings

Oval Cabochon Amethyst Earrings, 24.96 ct, in 18kt White Gold, Microset with 422 White Diamonds and 357 Amethysts (My Fav!)

Also making a more subtle, but no less wonderful appearance, was a pair of sophisticated Black Spinel and Diamond Cufflinks on Colin Firth:

Colin Firth's Cufflinks, 18k White Gold Black Spinel Diamond Corner Cuff Links

Martin Katz is not new to the Red Carpet: for nearly two decades, his designs have been beautifully represented by a number of celebrities. Among his devoted following are Nicole Kidman, Angelina Jolie, Salma Hayek, Jennifer Aniston, Cate Blanchette, Freida Pinto, and many more. Over the years he has dealt directly with people in his own home in Beverly Hills, or his exclusive showrooms in Beverly Hills and New York City. A select collection can also be viewed at Bergdorf Goodman.

idazzle Exclusive Interview with Martin Katz About 2011 Golden Globes Jewels

idazzle: You have been in the couture jewelry business long enough for your designs to go through some interesting transformations. Can you explain the inspiration and thought behind your current collection?
Martin Katz: Many of my current designs incorporate vivid colored gems in a spirited 1930’s contemporized look. I derive inspiration from Victorian jewelry, but use this concept in a simpler sense, which is embodied by my current collections. By surrounding large center stones with tiny multicolored stones such as green garnets, pink sapphires, amethysts and white diamonds, I am able to achieve this look.

Do you think that this collection and particularly the items worn, represent a larger theme for jewelry that we will see going forward?
MK: With the state of the current economy people have seemingly become more sensible, which has dictated a change in style. In terms of jewelry, pieces have become more colorful and suitable for every day wear. Obviously statement pieces will never retire, but it seems that they are taking a little break right now!

There seems to be an element of classic estate jewelry in some of your designs, suggesting old Hollywood glamour. How does vintage jewelry influence and inspire your current pieces?
MK: I began my career as a vintage jewelry dealer so my love for vintage pieces has always played an integral role in the design of my jewelry. I am always borrowing design concepts from the past to create my pieces for the present. Because of this, I like to say that my pieces have an old soul.

What kind of woman do you envision wearing your work? Do you have a specific muse?
MK: Women who wear my jewelry are typically self-confident and know what they like in design without being told. They are chic and stylish when they want to be, but do not feel compelled to always be perfectly coiffed. They admire art and have a deep appreciation for quality in all categories. My wife Kelly is my muse and is invaluable to me because she is a never-ending source of design ideas and insight as to what women want.

Martin Katz Opal and Diamond Ring with Amazing Pave

It seems as though you caught the jewelry bug early, with your fascination of how jewelry ornamentation affects people. Are you still captivated by that reaction? What else gives you motivation to keep creating?
MK: Having an artistic and “critical” eye is both my blessing and my curse. I am always observing how fashion and jewelry personify people. When it comes to the Red Carpet, it’s like a candy store of representation that all of us in the fashion world love to explore. Inspiration and motivation come from my wanting to create what others do not and finding a road less traveled when it comes to design direction. When the road fills with traffic again, I find it’s time to take a different route.

You have famously designed some non-jewelry ornaments, such as your 2007 wedding gown collaboration with Renee Strauss, and the 2008 Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra. What is your current focus in design right now, and does it go beyond jewelry?
MK: I am currently working on perfume bottles for a major fragrance group which will be announced sometime later this year.

I heard a rumor that you once walked the Red Carpet yourself ! Would you do it again?
MK: I once walked the Red Carpet alongside Sharon Stone, shortly after she starred in Basic Instinct. She proudly announced to the cameras that I was her jeweler, but in the early 1990’s the press wasn’t covering jewelry the way that they are today, or asking the questions they would today. If I were invited to walk the red carpet again, I would, but not by myself seeing as I’m not a celebrity!

Ha, I’m not so sure about that! Thank you so much Martin, for giving us your insight into jewelry trends and your inspiration right now!

About the Fabulous Jewelry of Martin Katz

Martin Katz’s first real experience with jewelry was selling sterling silver to other students in college, which grew into a larger fascination with the effect that jewelry had on people. His most recent designs are a mix of intricate micro-pave in colored gems arranged in randomly gorgeous, almost mathematical patterns, combined with luminous cabochon cut gemstones in spectral hues. Beyond the amazing gemstones, what is most impressive is the intricacy of the setting work and the way that the mechanics of the piece, like prongs and ring attachments, are transformed by setting skill into decorative pave. A signature collection that he is known for are his “Micro Bands“, where tiny gemstones of remarkably saturated color are set using a microscope, and can be collected and stacked. His other jewelry designs can be viewed at his website, www.martinkatz.com.

Martin Katz Cabochon Sapphire Ring with Pave Accent

View this post on idazzle.com: idazzle Exclusive: Martin Katz Jewelry at the 2011 Golden Globes

IcedOrchid.com sent me a lovely pair of earrings, as an example of their jewelry quality. Alas, I can’t keep them: it’s not a gift to me in exchange for a favorable review. I didn’t want anything to potentially color my review, so I sent them back. But I’m not sure I wanted to!

IcedOrchid.com Engagement Ring Setting with Round Center Diamond

The IcedOrchid.com Company

I’ve been aware of IcedOrchid.com for a while, but it was their recent mention in a Glamour.com article about engagement rings under $1850 that really got my attention. I went to their site and checked out the ring–I was absolutely convinced that the $1762 price quoted was just for the mounting, not the center stone diamond as well. To my surprise, the white gold setting was completed by a .50 carat round diamond with a nice cut (AGS 1 rating), color (F), and clarity (SI1), with a lab report from the pinnacle of reputable labs, American Gem Society Laboratory.

The company, started recently, but with many years of experience in the jewelry industry, tries very hard for that excellent value proposition. They say that they target an entry-level price point in the market, but I find their offerings to be classic and enduring styles (unlike some of the awful things I’ve seen in malls). On their clean, simple site you can find a large assortment of engagement ring and wedding band designs, as well as a small collection of diamond jewelry such as earrings, pendants and bracelets. But would the jewelry itself live up to the quality and construction that they promise to consumers on their site?

IcedOrchid.com Engagement Ring Setting with Baguette Side Stones

The Review

The earrings I reviewed are the 1.50 Ct Tw Inside-Out Diamond Hoops in white gold, $1761 Retail. They are named “Inside Out” because the front of the hoop is set with diamonds, and the inside of the back of the hoop is also set, which is what you see from the front. I thought these would be a good to review because they are a great gift idea or jewelry essential for a jewelry collection. Plus, they would show IcedOrchid.com’s typical diamond quality, how well they match their stones, their diamond-setting skill, polish and finishing.

The earrings arrived very securely packaged, and I finally uncovered the fancy wood and leather-ette presentation box containing the earrings inside. For some reason, I was pleasantly surprised by how much the diamonds sparkled against the black lining of the box. Maybe it’s the reasonable price, maybe I’m just jaded, but I’ve seen a lot of mediocre quality out there for diamond basics. These earrings are REALLY pretty.

Inside-Out Diamond Hoops 1.50 Ct Tw, $1761 Retail

There are 60 diamonds totaling 1.50 carats, and all are listed at G-H color and VS2 clarity. I 10X-louped them in the setting, which isn’t quite like seeing them unmounted, but that quality appears to be what is set into the earrings I received. No major flaws, and all bright white in the white gold setting. Though each diamond itself is small, in the clean straight-line shared prong setting they have a lot of presence, even from across the room. I liked how short and curved the posts are, because they won’t tip forward on your ear and expose the earring hole, and they have a hinged closure that has a satisfying *snap* to close (makes them feel very secure on the ears).

Scale is one of the most challenging parts of ordering ANYTHING on line, especially for jewelry which is not branded. The detail pages on IcedOrchid.com’s website helpfully lists all the details of each piece of jewelry, but really, does anyone know what 26 X 1.6 MM really looks like? The 1.50 carat pair has a hoop diameter almost exactly that of a US quarter, so you can hold that up to your ear and get a feel for the scale.

This is a VERY wearable size and style of diamond hoop earring. Personally for myself, I would want a larger diameter, but I like pretty bold jewelry. The carat weight, scale, sparkle and finish of these make these earrings the perfect jewelry essential of a diamond hoop for most people. If someone is quite demure in their style, then diamond stud earrings or the 1 carat total weight of these same hoops would be good. (Hint to IcedOrchid: maybe make a larger diameter pair, maybe 30MMs with 2 Carats or so of diamonds–those I would NOT send back! Edited after published, I found this pair of 2 Ct TW Inside Out Hoops with a 28mm diameter on their site.)

Trio of Classic Rings From IcedOrchid.com

A Little Q and A with IcedOrchid.com

idazzle.com: What is the history and story of the company and founders?

IcedOrchid.com: IcedOrchid.com is a young American company, founded by a family that has been involved in the jewelry business for years. What began as a spirited family discussion regarding the direction of the industry turned into words of action in the creation of IcedOrchid.com. IcedOrchid.com was established as an online retail store, to market beautiful yet affordable diamond jewelry to people who thought they could never afford luxury. Targeting the bottom of the pyramid for luxury, IcedOrchid.com’s mission is to show the average working man or woman that luxury diamond jewelry is available to them at a fair price without compromising quality.

What do you feel is unique or special about the IcedOrchid.com company and website (in other words, why should customers shop with you)?

What separates IcedOrchid.com from its competitors is the company’s effort to keep the engagement process as simple, stress-free and enjoyable as possible through its easy-to-use website. While the company has a large inventory and thousands of styles, it doesn’t display everything it carries. Rather, the products that are displayed are those that follow seasonal trends as well as those backed by research statistics on best selling items. Even the promotions the company runs are direct and target the audience its products are tailored for. Further, IcedOrchid.com is unique in that all its products come from a single source ensuring top quality while also allowing it’s diamond consultants to personally check or inspect an item upon request from a customer.

Do you have some exciting things launching/happening in 2011?

IcedOrhcid.com starts 2011 with an exciting contest running on Facebook called “Operation Proposal”target=_blank. This contest is run in collaboration with Operation Gratitude, a NGO that sends care packages to deployed soldiers around the worlds. “Operation Proposal” is open to every American who has a valid military card and to veterans as well. Contestants are encouraged to upload photos and stories of their proposals (past or future) on IcedOrchid.com’s Facebook page, and then get their friends and families to support their entries. The contest ends on Feb 6th with the winner being announced on Valentine’s day. The contestant with the highest number of votes will win him/herself a gorgeous diamond engagement ring worth $4500.

Also, on January 15th 2011, IcedOchid.com offers consumers a unique opportunity to see its jewelry display in person at booth 718 at the Hartford CT Bridal Expo!

Come March 2011, IcedOrchid.com will be launching its first spring collection! Keep visiting the website www.icedorchid.com and its Facebook page to view new styles, new diamonds and other exciting additions.

Thank you, IcedOrchid.com for sending the earrings for review, and sharing your thoughts about your company! I like what you’re doing so far with your website! One suggestion that would make the shopping experience even better is to have really *snappy* images of the jewelry–when you are online, you have one chance to impress the customer! Also, illustrating scale of the jewelry, like a photo of it on a model, or against something that shows its dimensions. I recommend paying attention to the way that the best fashion sites represent things, and of course, disclosing all the details about the quality, as you are doing. Can’t wait to see IcedOrchid.com’s Spring 2011 collection!

View this post on idazzle.com: Retailer Spotlight: Review of IcedOrchid.com

The Designer

Primary designer for Kara Ackerman Creations, Ltd, Kara has possessed a strong design sense from an early age, and combined that with a single-minded passion for jewelry to start her own design company. Since 1998, she has created a number of collections that incorporate precious materials like gold and gems with other interesting materials like wood and leather. She’s garnered some great press and a devoted following of celebrities such as Demi Moore, Zoe Saldana, and Christina Applegate.

A lovely stack of Judie bangles by Kara Ackerman, with gem selections in 24k over Sterling Silver, $200 Retail each

The Kara Ackerman Collections

The Kara Ackerman Collection consists of high-end jewelry incorporating faceted gemstones like French amethyst, citrines, colored diamonds and pearls in gold, silver and heavy-plated vermeil. These are the designs that put her on the map in fashion terms, and are collected by connoisseurs.

The GemGirls collection by Kara are personalized charms that can be collected, stacked and worn. Accented with gemstones, they are precious little gifts–or treats for yourself–and are very wearable as pendants or bracelets.

Kara doesn’t forget about men, and has a KSA Designs for Men collection of interesting cufflinks and moneyclips. It can be hard to find great jewelry and accessories for men, and she fills a niche with interesting designs and great craftsmanship.

Kara Ackerman 18kt Hammered Gold Earrings with Rose Cut Diamonds, $900 Retail

The Interview

idazzle: When did you start the Kara Ackerman Designs company?
Kara Ackerman: The official start date of Kara Ackerman Designs was on September 10th, 1998.

What did you do in your previous life?
Before I followed my passion, I worked for Sony Entertainment. I was a productions assistant working on music videos . It was a very special time in my life.

Kara Ackerman Brooke White Topaz Pave Cocktail Ring, $300 Retail

What was the catalyst for making the foray into jewelry design?
I have been designing jewelry as long as I can remember, it is in my blood. My earliest childhood recollections are of beading simple necklaces and playing with my mothers jewelry collection.

How would you describe your fashion/design philosophy in a word or phrase?
Wearable Art.

Kara Ackerman Gold Plated Aluminum Stacking Bangles, $65 for Set of 20

What kind of woman or person do you have in mind when you are creating new designs? Any specific muse?
My mother is my inspiration, her beauty and sense of style are best
described as classic. She has the poise and class of a Jacky O and the
intuitive fashion sense of a Audrey Hepburn. My mother is at the base of
everything I create.

What is the most interesting dilemma you have faced as an entrepreneur in the jewelry industry?
There is a constant pressure to keep up with the ever changing styles in the fashion industry. It is in the moments when things are in the greatest of flux, where I see the best opportunity to set the trend.

Pile 'o Judie Rings to Collect and Stack, Many Gemstones Available in 24k Vermeil, Around $100 Retail Each

What is the most inspiring/rewarding thing about coming to work as a jewelry designer each day?
My designs evolve from the world around me. Like an artist, I interpret what I see in a medium of silver, gold, precious stones, etc. There is an indescribable thrill in bringing those visions to life.

Thank you, Kara, for explaining your inspiration and designs! It will be fun to see what she’s working on for 2011, I’ve heard rumors about some interesting new developments! You can find Kara Ackerman’s designs in her own online boutique, and in a few select physical stores like OC Concept Store in NYC, Dovecote in CT, and Rocks by Rachel in Boca Raton, FL. Her designs can also be found at online retailer Max & Chloe. For information about any of the items featured in this article, or for more information about a custom-designed piece, contact Kara through her website here.

View this post on idazzle.com: Jewelry Designer Spotlight: An Interview with Kara Ackerman

Caleo Mini Cloud Earrings in 18k Yellow with Chrysoprase and Turquoise, $1090 Retail

The Designer

Designer and creative director Lyndsay Caleo is responsible for the renderings and ideas that become the finished reality of CALEO Fine Jewelry. She credits inspiration coming from primitive art, Scandinavian aesthetic, and nature’s simple, perfect forms. She distills these elements through her sculptor’s eye, then refines them to jewelry scale.

I’m not the only one noticing this designer: before the collection officially launched in 2009, it was awarded the Innovative Talent Award from the World Gold Council that year. Celebrity stylists have also noticed, and the designs have gotten numerous press mentions in past year since it’s launch. (And while it’s not the most important thing about the collection, it is worth noting that most items in the collection range in price from $150 to about $2000.)

Caleo Pinch Stack Ring with Center Rainbow Moonstone, $850 Retail, and Pinch Stack Rings with Diamonds, from $425 Retail

The Caleo Collections

The Cloud Collection is a signature look, featuring a finely-drawn line that loops bezels around rose-cut gems like Labradorite and Rainbow Moonstone. There are bracelets with hefty jewels balanced by sculptural clasps, and necklaces where the loop is actually a clip that can go from chain to chain. All have a certain appeal with the focus on the clean lines and gorgeous jewels.

Caleo Large Cloud Earrings with Rose Cut Labradorite in 18k Gold

The Pinch Collection really shows the three dimensional talent of the designer as sculptor. The simple forms take on a totally different quality with the undulating pinch texture defining the edges. Everything shines here: the hoop and straight-line earrings, the bangles, necklaces, and the stacking rings. In addition to the 18kt Yellow, Rose and White gold, this collection looks stunning in a satin white finish and blackened rhodium-plated finish on Sterling Silver.

Caleo Pinch Stacking Rings in Satin White and Black Rhodium Sterling Silver, $165 and $175 Retail

The Oceana Slink collection features some truly amazing pieces like the hinged cuff that resembles a textured Manta Ray encasing your wrist. There is also an Aurora and Halo collection, where diamonds and gems are surrounded by sculptural metal. The Aurora rings stack together in very interesting ways, with an almost Byzantine feel.

Caleo Oceana Slink Cuff Bracelet in Sterling Silver with Diamonds, $2790 Retail

The Interview

idazzle.com: So you started as a sculptor originally? What made you take the step from sculptor to jewelry designer?
Lyndsay Caleo: I made the transition from “sculpture” to “jewelry” during my artist residency at the Cleveland Institute following my graduation from RIT. I was reading about nomadic tribes at the time. I am fascinated by their culture and how they carry and wear their amulets and talismans’. During my time at the Cleveland Institute my work kept getting smaller and smaller until I began to attach chains to my designs so I could wear them. I realized that every culture has different versions of a talisman, in some way shape or form. What we choose to wear can make us feel confident, safe, empowered or somehow connected to someone or something. I am drawn to the personal connection and meaning that jewelry communicates. On another level I approach my jewelry the same way I approach my larger scale work. From interiors to sculpture, my work is all about creating systems. So in a way I feel like I’m still working as a sculptor, only on a different scale. I’m constantly thinking about how a piece of sculpture can make sense worn on one’s body.

When did you start the Caleo Fine Jewelry company? Did this grow out organically from private designing, or did you set out to start a full-fledged design company?
Caleo, as a company, grew very organically, I was in the studio for a few years creating one of a kind pieces until the demand grew beyond what I could make with my own hands.

Caleo Halo Ring in 18k with Chrysoprase with Diamond Accent

What was your first collection(s)?
My very first jewelry collection was a series of one of a kind pieces that explored what I mentioned above, as well as material, shape and form that I hadn’t seen in jewelry before. During this time I was exploring and handcarving everything from stone and crystal, to wood and hand cast metal.

Where is your jewelry made? Is there anything special about the sourcing or finishing that readers should know about?
All of the gold I use is recycled and I only use conflict free diamonds and stones. I still create pieces in my studio but I also have an incredible team of goldsmiths that work me with on production and one of a kind specialty pieces.

How does your bench training at Rhode Island School of Design influence your designs?
RISD was an important time for me on many levels. My years at RISD were intense but inspirational. You gain so much knowledge by working with your hands. It taught me to see things from a different perspective and reconsider my thought process behind my work. I try to approach everything I create with an open mind. The attention to detail is key in all of my work. The knowledge and discipline I gained during those years has helped me mold Caleo into what it is today.

Caleo Pinch Teardrop Earrings in 18k Yellow Gold, $1500 Retail

Have you had any fortunate serendipity while designing? Like a “mistake” or experiment that somehow turned into something really wonderful?
About two years ago someone sent me a huge bouquet of lily’s. The flowers had passed but I had plucked off the stamen [those pesky little parts in the center of the lily that stain your cloths? ] and left them on my bench. I would push them around and play with them while I was working. Months later I was looking at a new collection I was working on and realized that those pesky little Stamen shapes were in every one of my designs. Today that collection is one of our best selling collections.

Is there any type of medium or material you would like to add to your collections? Anything exciting that you are working on? Yes!! Material is a constant source of inspiration and I am excited about what’s on the table for Spring! I am just finishing the samples now.

Where can readers find your designs?
All of our retail partners that carry the collection are listed on our website, www.caleojewelry.com. We have key partners around the country. If we do not have a retail partner in your region we can be contacted directly about questions or concerns at: info at caleojewelry dot com.

Thank you, Lyndsay! You can find her designs at stores like Broken English in Santa Monica, Tivol in Kansas City, and some other locations across the country. You can contact her studio through their website here. This designer shows such strength, and such promise, I can’t wait to see what else she creates!

View this post on idazzle.com: Designer Spotlight: An Interview with Caleo Fine Jewelry

Christian Tse 18kt Yellow Gold 10.00 Ct. Natural Fancy Yellow Diamond Engagement Ring with Fancy Yellow Accent Pave, Price upon Request

Christian Tse Background

Christian is a third generation jeweler, which helps to explain his design aesthetic and his studio’s skill: there is a confidence of composition in his designs. He launched the Christian Tse line in 1996 with his platinum and gold mesh jewelry, with collections that were influenced by his family’s business of designing 24 karat gold jewelry for Chinese weddings. I first saw his platinum and gold jewelry at fine independent jewelry stores in the late 1990′s and was impressed with how well-made the jewelry was, and how great it felt to wear it. NO ONE else in the industry was doing anything remotely like this. He went on to win a couple of Couture Awards for Best Design in Platinum, in 2000 and 2002.

Christian Tse 18kt White Gold Drop Earrings with 18.42 cts TW of Amethyst and 1.96 cts TW Pave Diamonds, $13,900 Retail

Christian Tse Jewelry Designs

After his success with his precious metal designs, Christian turned his eye towards gemstones and fancy color diamonds. He creates some truly memorable rings, earrings, and necklaces using gemstones combined with finely-wrought micro pave diamonds. Each piece is made by hand in their Pasadena loft studio, allowing ultimate control and perfect execution of his creations. Every detail, down the exact alloy of metal to match or contrast with each gemstone is carefully considered. He and his wife Victoria have been described as the “yin and yang” of their business, with a wonderful balance of hard work and honest communication with their staff and clients, but truly passionate about jewelry and their craft.

Christian Tse Geometric Drop Earrings in 18kt White Gold with Fancy Vivid Yellow-Orange Diamonds totaling 3.94 cts and 3.57 cts Pave Diamonds, Price upon Request

Christian Tse Timepieces

Christian’s innovative use of color is already apparent with his diamond and gemstone jewelry, but his true genius is revealed in his recently-launched watch designs, the aptly named “Prismatic Timepieces”. These watches feature amazing gemstones paired with bands made of stingray and other exotic textures, in arresting color combinations and patterns. But here’s the thing: the time is actually not apparent when looking at them–you must hit a hidden stem that then displays the time in diamonds that light up for a few seconds. Since some people have abandoned watches all together in the age of cell phones and devices that tell time down to the atomic second, this approach frames watches as gorgeous jewelry that you change with your outfit. It pushes the concept of time.

Christian Tse Desert Rose Watch on Strap

Christian Tse Interview

idazzle.com: Three words: Fancy Color Diamonds! How did you come to focus on designing fancy color diamonds? I read the recent JCK article where you serendipitously connected with a crazy-rare 4.5ct fancy vivid blue diamond. How do you approach these projects? Do you usually acquire the colored diamond first, then take your time formulating the design around it? Or do you have a certain color combination and design in mind, then go source the center diamond?
Christian Tse: I have always had a fascination for fancy color diamonds, though in my early years of business I could not afford to purchase fancy color diamonds. My very first fancy color diamond was a natural black diamond.
I approach each diamond as an individual project. Each diamond has its unique color and shape. The center diamond is the primary influence on the color combination for the design. I usually carry the diamond around and constantly look at it in different lights, i.e. day light, incandescent light, florescent light, twilight and so on to truly feel and experience the color. Once I’ve spent time with the diamond I come up with the design. We also alloy our gold colors to match and enhance the fancy color diamond.

Christian Tse Natural Fancy Green Diamond Ring, Price upon Request

What is your favorite color combination in all of your designs? Do you have an all-time favorite?
My favorite color for a diamond is a Natural Vivid Orange. Blue and pink diamonds go hand in hand. It also makes for a fantastic color combination.

So you make all of your jewelry in your studio/atelier in Pasadena? It’s becoming quite unusual to actually craft jewelry in the US, let alone under one roof. Do you feel this has an impact on the design process, quality and finishing of your work?
Manufacturing in the USA has always been my top priority as the trend is to move work over to other countries. I make a conscious effort in planning for long-term growth with our clients in acquiring advanced technical equipment for our facility. I have much better control over quality and design when I can be a part of every stage of crafting the pieces.

Christian Tse 18kt White Gold Asian-motif Square Bracelet with 10.51 ct TW Pave Diamonds, $29,000 Retail

Who or what is the biggest influence in your life? Any particular muse?
Fashion influences my work in a big way. I love to see the colors and textures that are working through the runways.

Tell me about your watches. What inspired you to venture into watch design? Who did you envision wearing them when you designed them?
I have always envisioned lighting up diamonds. One day I was trying to design a ring that would light up the center diamond, and one thing lead to another and the Prismatic Timepiece was born! My latest creation is the Radiance Collection. It’s a natural extension of my love for color. The collection emulates luxury through a celebration of vibrant colored baguette gemstones featuring sapphires and topazes and diamond bezel settings. The people who wear and adore my watches are chic, fashionable jet setters, often celebrities, from Russia to New York, Shanghai to Dubai.

Christian Tse Radiance Collection 38mm Rose Gold and Gemstone Watch on White Alligator Band, $15,000 Retail

What does your design process look like? Chaos or order ?
My approach to design is systematic. I am very particular on angles and measurements. The feel and wear of each design is closely followed. Proportions are closely paid attention to.

Early in your design career you did some very inventive designs with precious metals in interesting textures. Currently you are doing some very interesting things with precious gems as the focus. Do you prefer one particular medium?
I believe as time passes, and as I grow as an individual, my designs continue to evolve as well. I often search for the next influence in my designs. I am constantly challenging myself to push the envelope to develop new techniques, new materials, and new ideas. Who knows what medium I will be working on, maybe titanium, maybe concrete?

The designer himself, Christian Tse!

Thank you, Christian! You can find Christian’s designs in Neiman Marcus stores and a few fine boutiques across the country. If you would like to inquire about a design or find a retailer near you, contact his studio here.

View this post on idazzle.com: Designer Spotlight: An Interview with Jewelry Designer Christian Tse