Then I clicked through to her website where she actually sells her jewelry, and, WOW. Do you know how rare it is to see designs that are totally creative in inception AND perfectly executed? Trust me, in a veritable sea of “crafty” jewelry it’s harder to find than, well, a leopard print Dolce and Gabbana dress. I especially love the intricate pieces that move, since I know how hard this is to do in fine jewelry metals.

Wendy Brandes Siobhan Stacking Rings in 18kt Gold and Diamond, Pink Sapphire and Ruby, $5500 Retail

Browsing her collection, mostly inspired by interesting, powerful, (or fallen) women from history, I’m not sure I can choose just ONE design that I would personally like to have. I am partial to the jewelry with moving parts/conversation pieces, so I think that in my future I WILL have a poison ring. I just can’t decide between which bad-ass chick from antiquity: Agrippina or the Livia in Aquamarine. There is something about the Chrysanthemum necklace that speaks to me. And I like the Fulvia ring just on principle and description alone.

Wendy Brandes Marie Antoinette Ring in 18kt with Amythest and Tsavorites, $12,500 Retail

I was initially an admirer of afar. After all, this is someone who has been photographed for fashion magazines, has been featured in a video interview for the Washington Post and is outspoken enough to be recognized as a threat by a major search engine that is two letters away from Poodle. Her Cleopatra earrings were just featured in a little film you may have heard of: Sex In The City 2. Oh, it’s not enough that she’s talented, incredibly smart, and well-written; she’s also gorgeous and trend-setting.

The lovely Wendy B with Henry in a Stacy Lomman dress, her own Cleopatra earrings and ring designs

I decided that it was time to find out more about the incomparable Wendy B.

The Interview

idazzle.com: This may be old news, but I’m wondering what prompted the leap from WSJ and Lehman Brothers to creative jewelry designer? Since you now have the benefit of hindsight, is anything radically different than you expected? What was most surprising to you entering the jewelry/design industry? Would you do it all over again?

Wendy Brandes: I did love being an editor. That was my job at CNN and People as well as the Wall Street Journal. (The job at Lehman Brothers, as managing editor of the websites, utilized the same editorial skills.) But the newspaper, TV show and magazine were full of stories about people’s accomplishments and I started to want to be one of those people doing things, instead of being an observer. I was always interested in fashion and entrepreneurship and I had started to design jewelry for my personal use, so jewelry it was. I expected the new direction to be challenging, and it was. Not designing and being inspired. That’s easy. Making a name for yourself is what’s hard. People think that fashion is all about the hot new thing, but it’s much more conservative than that. It’s difficult to pitch products that are very different from what’s on the market. I sometimes wish that I went for the big bucks and started a software company or a social-media business or a hedge fund. But that’s not me. If given the choice, I’d do the jewelry all over again. It’s in my blood.

Wendy Brandes Tortoise Locket in 18kt Gold with Diamond, $2800 Retail

We’re all glad you went for jewelry! I think a lot of designers would say that there is a decidedly un-sexy side of marketing, distribution, etc.

Is getting your designs recognized and on people your biggest challenge as an independent jewelry designer–you’re also at the mercy of commodity markets, and manufacturing economies of scale?

The manufacturing is a big challenge, especially because of the high cost of my raw materials. I wrote about that here. But, as I said, getting the word out is difficult too. If manufacturing and publicity had to arm wrestle for the title of Toughest Challenge, it would probably be a draw.

Wendy Brandes Diana Necklace in Sterling Silver, $450 Retail

What is the biggest reward?

Seeing my ideas become reality — and emails from happy customers like this one.

What jewelry are you wearing RIGHT NOW?

None! I’m at home and I take off all my jewelry as soon as I come home. I recommend that to everyone. When I go out later, I’ll wear my one-of-a-kind “She Sells Seashells” ring. It’s a good summertime ring.

Wendy Brandes One-of-a-Kind carved Rose Quartz and 18kt Rose Gold Ring, $15,000 Retail

Gorgeous ring, strong yet feminine. Anything you’re working on right now that makes your palms sweat (and can you show us?)?

I’m SO excited by the fun new designs I’m adding to my swear-ring line. The swear rings are multi-finger ring sets that give you a brass knuckles look. But you can still move your fingers freely, unlike with a single multi-finger ring that looks cool but feels uncomfortable. The original sterling-silver swear rings read F@#! Then I made them an asterisk friend. But people kept asking for more, so now I have OMG, LOLZ and NYC sets. To make those sets affordable, I need to make them in Asia, in quantity. It’s the economies of scale situation I wrote about in the post mentioned above. So I’m using Kickstarter to take pre-orders on the rings. The pre-sales will pay for production. To pre-order, just use your Amazon account here.

NEW Wendy Brandes Swear Rings in Sterling Silver, LOLZ, OMG, NYC Click Image to Pre-Order

Love the Kickstarter premise! If admirers are jonesin’ for a glimpse of your collection, where in the country can you find it on display?

If you’re in the Los Angeles area, you can check out my work at Broken English Jewelry in Santa Monica. And if you’re in New York, I’m having a sample sale with my clothing-designer friend Zang Toi on August 17. Hope to see everyone there!

Thanks a million, Wendy! For more information on Wendy’s designs, you can visit her jewelry website here, or go to her blog here.

Wendy Brandes Jewelry Sale at House of Toi, August 17th, Click for More Info

evelynH Squared Ring, Red Dot Design Award Winner 2010

The Background

You might say that jewelry is in Evelyn Huang’s blood, since her background is high-end jewelry retail, first at her family’s Los Angeles business, then for the DeBeers store on Rodeo Drive. She received her technical gemology training from GIA, and loved connecting with customers, but still had a creative desire that needed to be explored. After studying Jewelry Design at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, evelynH officially launched in 2006. Within months her “Infinity” suite of bridal rings had won 3rd Place in the DIVA Awards, and garnered a lot of attention.

Evelyn Recieves the Red Dot Award (you can just make out ring on her right hand!)

She’s won numerous other awards and mentions, notably the 2010 Red Dot Design award, and Rio Tinto’s First Place award in 2009 for her extraordinary fancy color diamond necklace design. The necklace is on tour this Fall, traveling with the Rio Tinto National Retailer Tour.

Bulles de Champagne Collier Rio Tinto Award Winner

evelynH and Africa’s Hope

The “Africa’s Hope” earrings designed by evelynH have an incredible story. The earrings themselves are truly stunning with diamonds and African Emeralds scattered in the suspended strands of 18K white gold. The earrings won the 2009 WJA DIVA Design Red Carpet Category, and Evelyn gifted them to the Diamond Empowerment Fund. I loved reading about where the design came from, out of a place in her heart “that these good thoughts will create a positive energy that will be the beginning of a catalyst that will one day alter someone’s life and take that person down a different path full of opportunities and promise….I will name it Africa’s Hope and wish upon it goodness and change and the spirit of giving back…”. Then I found out that at the DEF auction, Russell Simmons himself purchased the earrings, then gave them to Barbara Bush as a gift for her support of DEF! How amazing! This is a reminder that a jewelry designer can make a very positive, tangible difference…

Africa's Hope Earrings: 4.89 Ct. Diamonds and 3.54 Ct. African Emeralds in 18K White Gold

Russell Simmons and Barbara Bush with Evelyn H at DEF Auction

The Interview

idazzle.com: I love the fact that the Red Dot award-winning ring has moving parts and interconnected pieces (and the awesome 1.25″ scale!). Can you tell me a little more about the design inspiration behind the Squared Ring?

evelynH: The squared ring was really inspired by the interconnectivity of the social paradigm that exists today. Complex human relationships which are built upon the technological accessibility of information to the masses directly influencing all aspects of our social culture from how we interact in our relationships to education, art, and architecture all come together in this simple but complex looking design. My point was to try to capture a snapshot of where we currently are as a society and try to interpret it into a piece of jewelry.

I think you really captured it well: how we interact as humans is incredibly rich and complicated! Were you surprised to take top honors in the Red Dot Jewelry Design category?

Honestly, yes I was surprised. The Red Dot is one of the most famous/pre-eminent international design competitions with products being entered by some of the best and most successful companies (Apple, BMW, Rolls Royce, ligne roset etc) on the market today, and I kind of just figured I would give it a try without any expectations. Needless to say I was ecstatic when I received the news.

Are you sure you aren’t a mathematician? While some designs, like your Cometes Cuff are sinous and organic, many are quite geometric. Can you tell me more about your collections?

I’m definitely not a mathematician considering I had to take calculus a few times before I passed the class during my university years. As for my design work, most of our focus is on one-of-a-kind designs for private clientele. My collections are just a way for me to showcase an idea or a mood at the time of its creation. Some pieces are more organic such as the Cometes Cuff you mentioned, while others are much more symmetrical. The point is to try to get a little movement as well as symmetry, because the human eye tends to want things to balance out while looking at a design.

Tandem as One Plaid Diamond Bands

Tell me about your process. Do you start with the raw materials and noodle with them until you have a direction, or do you envision a design and go source the materials?

I usually start my process with a set of parameters. I find it much more interesting and much easier when you are given limits. For example, a client’s budget, or a pre-existing gemstone that must be utilized, etc. When I first began designing I would envision “grand masterpieces” in my mind and then try to have it materialize in front of me. I learned very quickly that this was a fast way to burn-out and lose direction and focus because all designs will have some form of restrictions. It is always better to know them first before you begin the design process. Usually once I understand what the restrictions are, the design process flows very efficiently.
The other important thing for me is to get out in the world and see new things, whether in a different city or visiting a completely foreign country with a different culture. Everything I absorb outside of my day to day environment will eventually shape my ideas in some way. It might not be a particular architectural wonder or a breathtaking sunset that will be interpreted, but somewhere all those experiences become part of me and will translate into something tangible at a point in time.

Carousel Cocktail Ring with Rubellite, Diamonds and Sapphires in 18K Gold

Nicely said, it makes sense that inspiration comes from everywhere and you pull essences out in different pieces at different times. In addition to your collections, you also do custom commissions for private clients. Do you work with people long distance? Which do you consider more rewarding, designing for yourself, or designing for others?

I do work with people locally and also long distance. For me personally, designing for others is much more rewarding. I love to get to know my clients and then interpreting what I feel coming from them into a piece of jewelry. Because I believe jewelry is extremely personal and is usually linked to a story or a memory, I really try hard to capture a feeling or a moment…something special for my clients. Every piece I design is meant to be for that person I designed it for. If I took the same piece and put it on a different person, it wouldn’t look right, it just wouldn’t belong. My most rewarding and happiest moments are when I see a client again, and they tell me since they’ve received the finished piece, they’ve never taken it off, and have received so many compliments that they would feel naked without the piece on.

Where can people find your designs?

Since we specialize in private commissions, our designs are not offered through normal retail channels. Anybody who would like something special or a piece from our collection, can just pick up the phone or shoot us an e-mail and we would be happy to start a conversation with them. Our designs are not mass produced and not as readily available as other designs out there.

What is your current obsession? Anything new we should know about?

I tend not to have any crazy obsessions in general…I only have one ongoing and permanent obsession which is to create pieces that will elicit a “wow” from a client. It’s always a challenge that I look forward to…how to top that emotional factor for them. As for new “news”…yes, everything is always a work in progress, but we try to keep mum on things until they happen. =)

I don’t think getting a “Wow” is a problem with your work! Thank you, Evelyn! It was an honor to get to know your background, inspirations, and amazing designs! You can see more of Evelyn’s designs on her website, and can reach Evelyn and her team at their by-appointment Los Angeles studio by phone at (213) 996-8448, or email by clicking here.

Art Deco Earrings

Yellow Fever

Gold is back, baby! A few designers have gone back to–or never left–warm, rich yellow gold as a medium. Diamonds seem to sparkle more as they stand out in white relief from the world’s most popular metal.

Gabriel and Co. makes a number of settings using gold, including this engagement ring and wedding band combo.

Gabriel and Co. Engagement Set W-ER4333 in 18K Yellow Gold

The very talented Alex Sepkus has worked in yellow gold for a long time. I love his Klimt-like interpretations, and the finish on his gold is amazing.

Alex Sepkus 18K Bezel Setting from McCaskill and Co.

Head-Turning Crowns

This trend is all about the head, or the prongs that the center diamond is put into. Several designers have elevated this into an art form, with intricate profiles that look like tiaras.

This engagement ring by Jewels by Erica Grace has a stunning presence; the lines are lovely and very-well executed:

Julia Setting by Erica Grace, $2125 Retail in 18K Gold

This stand-out ring from Erica Courtney actually hits on two trends: intricate profile, AND it is yellow gold. You can go with a scrolled pave diamond gallery underneath the diamond, or personalize it with initials.

Ellen Setting by Erica Courtney with Custom Initial, Retails Starting at $10,200 for 18K with a 1 Ct. Center Diamond

Rare Form

Some designers are doing interesting things with the shape of the bands, casting or carving in sculptural reliefs. The result is a design that elevates and challenges traditional perception.

This interwoven band from custom atelier, 23rd Street Jewelers, elegantly showcases their work.

Style SMR3620 from 23rd Street Jewelers, Avail As Is for $41,500, or Custom

This engagement ring from Krikawa manages to be delicate and modern at the same time, and can be customized. I especially like how the prongs twist up from the band design to wrap around the diamond:

Delicate Leaf Setting from Krikawa, Retail Starts at $2640 for 14Kt Gold

This is a very unusual combination of 18K rose and white gold from MaeVona at E.E. Robbins, with the feel of modern sculpture:

Eriskay Setting by MaeVona in 18K Rose and White Gold, $1850 Retail

Perennial Vintage

The vintage look continues on its white-hot run. There is something inherently familiar about these Art Deco, Art Nouveau, Retro and Victorian styles. In addition to the beauty and integrity in the lines, there is some confidence that the designs will be timeless.

You can go actual vintage or antique (anything at least 100 years old), or with a new vintage-style setting. With actual vintage, the designs are often exquisite and the hand-cut stones have a warmth and personality all their own.

Platinum Art Deco Engagement Ring Circa 1920's, .95 Ct Center, $8000 Retail

Vintage reproductions have the advantage of estate style with new, crisp manufacturing and modern brilliant stones.

Design house Tacori does a nice collection of vintage-inspired-but-modern, you can find them at great retailers across the country:

Tacori Engraved Platinum Setting with Baguettes, Style Ref #HT2350

And no one does intricate platinum pave–or double claw prongs–better than this craftsman, Leon Mege:

Platinum Pave Setting for Cushion Cut by Leon Mege

A.B.T. (Anything But Traditional)

I am happy to see this trend gaining momentum. Engagement rings are meant to symbolize a commitment to your partner, and that can look very different to each person or couple.

Designer Conroy + Wilcox reinterprets the classic single stone engagement ring with the soft sparkle of a grey rose-cut diamond and handmade bezel, from Erie Basin:

Conroy+Wilcox .50 Ct Grey Diamond in 18K Yellow Gold, $1740

Also from Erie Basin, this ring from the 1880′s has a romantic, Gothic feel with its navette shape and blackened silver around the Old European and Rose-cut diamonds:

1880's Victorian Diamond Ring from Erie Basin, $4700 Retail

This curving band by Beverly K from Greenwich Jewelers with blackened finish would make a delicate statement as an alternative engagement ring:

14K Beverly K Infinity Band from Greenwich Jewelers, $800 Retail

If diamonds just aren’t your thing, this simply sculptural ring from Gemvara is lustrous–and infinitely customizable–in 18kt rose gold with a Sapphire center stone.

18K Rose Gold and Sapphire Ring from Gemvara, $1362 as shown

If you want to find out where to purchase these or other engagement rings, click here to drop me a line so that I can refer you to a great jeweler in your area.

What is your favorite ring or trend? Comment and add others!

I maintain a list of independent jewelry retailers across the country so that I can refer readers if they need help with jewelry. I screen these local jewelers for a variety of things: competitive prices, especially on diamonds; GIA-educated salespeople on staff; membership in various trade organizations that promote ethics and integrity; a bench jeweler who can do jewelry repair onsite; business longevity and good reputation. It is especially helpful and relevant when I can personally visit these jewelers, so I do it when I can!

The Greenwich Jewelers Storefront at 64 Trinity Place, NY, NY 10006

Greenwich Jewelers was on my radar after I read about their focus on exciting fashion-forward jewelry designers in JCK. They carry a lovely selection of designers such as Marcia Moran, Jamie Joseph, and Gorjana. But they are much more than a fashion jewelry boutique. Inside their jewel-box of a store, they are a full-service jeweler with something for everyone: diamonds and bridal jewelry, plus a full compliment of wearable and affordable fine jewelry sourced from all over the world.

Silver-plated and Swarovsky Crystal Earrings by Azaara, avail at Greenwich Jewelers, $185 Retail

I was warmly greeted by Jennifer Gandia, who is co-owner of the store with her sister, Christina Gandia Gambale. They are widely recognized as experts in recognizing the best up-and-coming jewelry designers. Jennifer graciously showed me around and let me ogle the beautiful jewelry while telling me about the history of their store. This is a multi-generational business, started by their parents in 1976. Although the business shifted to the daughters a few years ago, their *lovely* parents are still in the store. Their mother Milly runs the repair department, and father Carl is the Master Jeweler at the bench, creating custom jewelry and doing fine repair work. Their biggest legacy is a devotion to service and integrity, which is apparent the moment you walk in the door.

Gorjana Rose Gold Vermeil Ring from Greenwich Jewelers

Although Greenwich Jewelers carries an amazing curated collection of fashion and fine jewelry designers, they still maintain a strong family jeweler persona. If you go in searching for an engagement ring, for instance, they first LISTEN (which can be a rarity these days), then do their best to find exactly what you want. They will bring in diamonds that fit your budget, create a custom design, and you will end up with a beautiful piece of jewelry that truly reflects what you asked for. If you buy a ring from them, they will repair your ring FOR LIFE. They also source conflict-free diamonds (they were one of the first retailers to stock Polar Bear diamonds from Canada), recycle gold, and specialize in designers who use socially-conscious practices.

Handmade Platinum Engagement Ring by Van Craeynest, Also Avail in 18k Gold

Thank you, Jennifer and staff, for a warm welcome! It was a pleasure, and a very good reminder for me that you get the best service and value from a store that really has your best interests at heart.

He got to actually look around at a relatively large selection, and see the sparkle and feel the quality of the jewelry. He got to talk to a knowledgeable sales person who could explain some style and quality differences (I’m the Gemologist, he’s not). After he made his selection, a wonderful ring and cuff bracelet from Rebecca that he knew I had been coveting, they wrapped it beautifully.

Melrose Rose-Gold Plated Cuff by Rebecca, $390 Retail

It was before Christmas when he picked it out, so it sat under the tree for a couple of weeks. When I unwrapped it, it was gorgeous! But the sizes were not quite right, so it sat for another week until I could make it into the store. I was able to walk out with a smaller cuff right out of the case, but the ring had to be ordered in the correct size from the factory in Italy. Now it fits like a glove.

This is a good example of why you should buy local, especially for jewelry. You get to SEE and TOUCH the jewelry, instead of guessing the weight, feel and finish. You get to TRY IT ON and see how it fits you specifically. The fit of some jewelry items, like rings and earrings, are very dependent on your individual features. You get first-hand EDUCATION on QUALITY and VALUE, which is especially important when choosing an expensive item like a diamond engagement ring. If it doesn’t work, you can be measured by an expert and ORDER the correct size or HAVE IT SIZED just for you, versus taking guesses and the hassle and potential expense of sending something express and insured. The jeweler does it all for you, usually very graciously.

Most consumers don’t really think about this. But great jewelers probably do. That’s a lot of personal touch and inventory costs, which is why some prices might be a little higher at a local jeweler versus online. But if you really need guidance, great selection, and some follow-up service, it’s worth establishing a relationship with a local, reputable jeweler who is going to take care of you.

Drop me a line and let me know if you need help finding someone local to shop at, I’m happy to help!

I know, every gift list for men has cufflinks, but what else besides a watch and maybe a wedding ring are guys going to wear? And they can collect multiple pairs, which is a bonus for the stumped gift-giver. Of course, this means that they need to wear a french-cuff shirt, but there are enough relatively casual shirt designs out there that you could convince even the most reluctant guy to wear. Here are some favorite cufflinks:

Classic

For a more traditional guy, you can’t go wrong with simple sterling silver ovals that can be engraved from Blue Nile:

Oval Engravable Silver Cufflinks from Blue Nile, $75 Retail

Vintage:

I love these vintage watch movement cufflinks, available from Cuffart.com. They are a pretty reasonable price, and would appeal to “watch guys”, as well:

Vintage Watch Movement Cufflinks from Cuffart.com, $155 Retail

Geek/Tech

Come on now, who could resist cufflinks with a specific (and meaningful) latitude and longitude, as figured out on Google Maps? Cleverly done with vintage metal stamps, the type is charmingly offset:

Latitude and Longitude Custom Engraved Cufflinks, $115 Retail

General Awesomeness

Every time I time I look at these cufflinks from award-winning blogger and superstar jewelry designer Wendy Brandes, I laugh out loud. EVERY time. I especially admire her creative use of the rubies:

Mud Flap Jill Cufflinks by Wendy Brandes, $350 Retail

Wendy also does some very cool skulls, if you’re into that sort of thing.

Shiny

If you’re looking for an affordable option that still has some sparkle, this pair from Amazon.com is a great choice: nice style, great price, prime shipping:

Sterling Silver and Black Diamond Cufflinks, $50 Retail

I really like the shape of these John Hardy “Naga” cufflinks. They are a little spendy, but the combination of the pave-set black and blue sapphires makes for interesting sparkle. They have nice details, too: the sides and back are finished with engraving. They are available from independent jeweler J.R. Dunn, or visit John Hardy’s website to find a local jeweler near you:

John Hardy Sapphire Cufflinks, $1595 Retail

This is just a starting point–the good news is that there are a lot of cufflink designs out there from $30 to $3000; some of the designers and retailers above have many other great options. Let me know if you need a hook up with a great Local Jeweler, I can try to help you out!

Irene Neuwirth

I profiled Irene Neuwirth previously here, and I would take this ring in a heartbeat. It is sculptural, versatile, and I think it has the potential to be a future heirloom that can be handed to the next generation:

Irene Neuwirth Rainbow Moonstone Ring in 18kt Yellow Gold, $2440 Retail

Irene works a lot with colored gems, but her gold jewelry is just as beautiful. Fluid, soft, and still modern, I think these earrings are an amazing addition of gold to a jewelry wardrobe:

Irene Neuwirth 18kt Yellow Gold 9-Drop Earrings, $1850 Retail

Shawn Warren

These hoops are my hands-down favorite of the designer jewelry I’ve seen in the past few months (for more jewelry by Shawn Warren, click here). They are exactly on-trend with a blackened finish, tiny diamonds and larger diameter. But more importantly (when you are spending this amount of $), they are also pretty timeless and I think they would be a staple in your jewelry wardrobe for a very long time. The best part? You can change them up instantly by adding the detachable rose-cut diamond drops. They are available in 2 sizes and 3 metals: 18kt rose gold, white gold, or the black-rhodium finish on 18kt gold:

Large Diamond Hoop with Rose-cut Diamond Drop, $2350 Retail for hoop, $1075-1500 for Rosecut Dia Drops

Here is another item from Shawn’s collection that I would really love to have: a striking pendant that could be worn on a shorter leather cord, or a long chain, potentially layered up with another necklace or pendant. Shown with her “Alba” 18kt white gold chain with white sapphires, please check with Shawn on availability and retail. Shawn’s studio has quite a few great gift ideas from $275 Brazilian Druzy rings to $1500 gorgeous diamond pendants:

Unison Bubble Pendant in 18kt White Gold and Silver, $2350 Retail for Pendant alone

Rebecca

If you are looking for really striking jewelry that is generally under $1000, the Rebecca line should be on your radar. At their state-of-the-art manufacturing center in Italy, they produce fine jewelry made from bronze that is heavily plated with 18 karat gold. I really like this “Roma” ring. It is definitely not shy (about 1″ square), but with 18 Kt gold-plated bronze as the metal, and a hydrothermal Peridot (same gem properties as the real thing, just grown in a lab), it is affordable fine jewelry. Available through Authorized Retailers, or from Fox’s Gem Shop:

Roma Ring from Rebecca, $620 Retail

Mattioli

It seems like it’s hard to find great gold designs. After white metals reigning supreme for more than a decade, I think gold is definitely moving back to its spot as the king of metals. Of course, you have be able to stomach its current price per ounce (at the time of the article, it is hovering around $1100/ounce, close to its all time high). Here is a bracelet from Mattioli that is sinuous and lovely, but has the hallmarks of a classic piece (their necklaces are gorgeous, too):

Mattioli Hiroko Collection 18kt Bracelet, $3675 Retail

Need More?

There’s a lot of gift ideas and designer information on this site already, if you explore a little. You can also drop me a line at monica@idazzle.com, or visit my Local Jewelers page to get a recommendation for an excellent jeweler close to you that can help you.

A little bit edgy…

I like almost everything Kimberly Baker does, you literally can’t go wrong with any of her earrings, necklaces or bracelets. Shhh…she’s a little under-the-radar, and her jewelry is still an affordable luxury:

Mary Ellen Vermeil Earrings by Kimberly Baker, $140 Retail

This is a great necklace from Marquis and Camus. I like the vintage chandelier crystal mixed with vintage and contemporary chains:

Marquis and Camus Teardrop Pendant, on sale for $125 Retail

Sentimental with a twist…

This locket from Liz Palacios (at Nordstrom.com) would be great for a personal, pretty gift:

Liz Palacios Locket with Freshwater Pearls and Crystals, $128 Retail from Nordstrom.com

If you like the idea of personalized jewelry, but want something out of the ordinary, you can do a letter, number or symbol from Jenny Lu of Albeit Jewelry:

8 Necklace from Albeit Jewelry, $310 Retail

Bold…

If you want to go BOLD, check out this “Mon Amour” ring from Rebecca. It is definitely not shy in scale, but I love the sentiment. With 18 Kt rose gold-plated bronze as the metal, it is affordable fine jewelry, a direction we will likely see more of. Available through Authorized Retailers, or from Fox’s Gem Shop:

Mon Amour Ring from Rebecca, $245 Retail

I also really love this rose gold-plated cuff bracelet from Rebecca. This is highly wearable, and for the about same price as a piece of fashion jewelry, you have something with some intrinsic value. Available in 2 widths and 3 wrist sizes (price depends on width and size):

Melrose Cuff Bracelet by Rebecca, $390 Retail

Beautiful and Boho…

The blue box from Tiffany and Co. doesn’t necessarily mean an ubiquitous floating silver heart. Here is a sculptural pendant from Elsa Peretti in a red laquer over wood:

Sevillana Pendant by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany and Co., $195 Retail

These carved resin Zellige cuffs designed by Paloma Picasso also come in yummy color combos like aubergine and chili, or coriander and cumin. All for $150.

Zellige Cuff by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany and Co., $150 Retail

Stumped, Sweaty, and Need Help?

I might be able to recommend an independent jeweler in your area who has access to great designer fine jewelry that doesn’t cost a fortune. Click on my local jewelers tab and drop me a line with your info.

Personalized Charm Necklaces

Personalized charm jewelry is a fantastic gift idea for a couple of reasons. It’s very thoughtful and obviously customized for the recipient, and depending on what you choose, it can be very affordable fine jewelry as well. For a detailed rundown on a range of personalized jewelry, see my previous post here. Here are a couple of my favorite options:

Etsy Artist Jeneri Double Sided Silver Pendant and Chain, Etsy.com, $64 retail

Heather Moore is the designer who really put this category on the map. Beautifully done, and uses recycled precious metals:

Heather Moore Oval Charm Necklace, $1485 Retail as shown

You can also check out Lisa Leonard, and Helen Ficalora, or more artisans on Etsy.com.

Silver Jewelry

Silver is very versatile, wearable, and affordable. There are some timeless pieces in silver that would make great gifts.

You cannot go wrong with the Blue Box from Tiffany and Co.:

Elsa Peretti Band Ring in Silver with Diamond from Tiffany and Co., $275 Retail

Classic silver charm bracelet with engravable heart charm from Blue Nile (the other blue box):

Blue Nile Sterling Silver Heart Tag Bracelet, $90 Retail

Pearl Jewelry

Pearls are a classic jewelry gift. I did an article devoted just to beautiful, affordable freshwater pearls here.

I love this necklace from American Pearl, it’s perfect with everything and is timeless without being stuffy (other sizes, qualities and gold contents available):

Akoya Pearl Station Necklace in 14k Gold from American Pearl, $275 Retail

If you think a simple pendant is more her style, here is a Tahitian pendant from Pearl Paradise that is very pretty and also a good value:

Tahitian 8-9mm Pearl and Diamond Pendant from Pearl Paradise, $260 Retail

Diamond Jewelry

When in doubt, go diamonds. Trust me on this. You’re welcome.

Diamond solitaire earrings are the second-most coveted jewelry item for most women, after an engagement ring. It’s important to buy the right quality. I recommend G-H-I color, SI1 or SI2 clarity (no eye-visible inclusions), with the best cut you can afford (for a rundown of the diamond 4C’s, click here). For size, that could be determined by budget or the style of the recipient. If she prefers tailored, subtle style in clothing and jewelry, go with 1/2 carat total weight (each diamond weighs 1/4 carat) to 1 carat total weight. If she’s not shy about her style and you can afford it, go with minimum 1 carat total weight up to 3 carats total weight. A fellow jewelry insider did a review of diamond stud earrings from 4 major retailers, click here for his Consumer Reports-style evaluation. This is an item that is well-suited to shopping locally, as a great jeweler can explain differences in quality and cut.

1 Ct TW H-I Color, SI Clarity Diamond Earrings from James Allen, $1940 Retail

Diamond hoops are a great idea; very versatile and fashionable at the same time. I’m particular about hoops. The mountings can’t be too heavy on the metal (prongs, etc), and I don’t like hinges visible–if the weight of the earring pulls them down the hinge will really show and sometimes droops in the front. I also generally prefer smaller stones, with a medium to large diameter, and diamonds set on the outside of the front and the inside of the back so you see a lot of sparkle.

These hoops made by Roberto Coin (sold at Nordstrom and independent jewelers) fit the bill perfectly and provide nice sparkle for the money. Also available in smaller and larger diameters:

Roberto Coin Diamond Hoop .80 Ct. TW., Nordstrom, $1740 Retail

If you would like to give a diamond necklace, this necklace is a nice variation on Tiffany and Co. classic Diamonds By The Yard. Wearable, and more interesting than a single diamond dangling from a chain:

Blue Nile 1/2 Ct. Diamond 3-Stone Necklace, $1370 Retail

If you’re a perpetual romantic, you can visit my rundown of heart pendants here.

Gold Jewelry

Even with white metals like Sterling Silver and Platinum vying for attention, gold jewelry is always in style. Here are a few items worth collecting.

No jewelry wardrobe is complete without gold hoops. These Roberto Coin earrings have a beautiful texture:

Roberto Coin Woven Silk Yellow Gold Hoops, from Windsor Fine Jewelers, $400 Retail

Lockets can often be engraved, plus they hold photos, making them romantic and sentimental. This one is from Tiffany, but many jewelers will have a version of an oval or heart-shape locket:

18K Heart Locket from Tiffany and Co., Locket $400 Retail, Locket with Gold Necklace, $2700 Retail

Need Help Finding a Gift?

The best place to buy a lot of these items is from a reputable jeweler in your area. If you need help finding someone, click here and send me a note with your location. I’ll do my best to recommend an excellent jeweler close to you.

Shawn has a by-appointment studio on Central Park West, and also shows at one retailer, Fred Segal Couture in Santa Monica, CA. To cover other geographic areas, she does several private trunk shows a year, often in the homes of collectors. This model of selling directly to customers has been very successful for her, and allows her to offer an excellent value proposition to her collectors. I had a chance to catch up with her recently, view her current designs, and ask her a few questions.

The (Spectacular) Jewelry

Her collection was surprisingly diverse, with some interesting sub-themes. My favorites were the gorgeous Karma pieces, with Maharajah-like earrings and pendants set with concentric rows of colored gems like dark Sri Lankan sapphires and richly-hued rubies. Rose-cut diamonds set off the colored gems and are sometimes set in yellow gold contrasting with dark rhodium-finished gold. Many items in this collection are limited-edition or one-of-a-kind, and look like they should be double to triple the prices marked.

Karma Sapphire (18.72 ct) and Rose-cut Diamond (4.1 ct) Earrings

Another favorite was her Diamond Sliver collection. Shawn has designed a series of mainly earrings and necklaces that feature thin “slices” of grey-white diamonds with very organic outlines, often set with pave white diamonds in contrast. The bezel-set diamond slices capture and diffuse the light, creating an effect like stained glass. It manages to be delicate and exciting at the same time.

Royal Sliver Diamond Necklace, 17 carats TW

I’m loving her hoops, with their rose-cut diamond drops. The diamonds are impossibly tiny and perfectly set on the outside and inside of each hoop to catch the light just right. They are available in 3 sizes, and in three colors of gold: white, rose, and a dark rhodium-finish gold that contrasts wonderfully with the sparkle of the diamonds. The rose-cut diamond drops are substantial, with an irregular outline and soft sparkle that keeps them interesting and not too precious. They are also removable, which is a basic tenet of Shawn’s designs–she really likes versatility.

Large Diamond Hoop with Rose-cut Diamond Drop

I also thought these bracelets were fantastic–very modern and wearable. She combines Tahitian pearls, pave diamond balls, and onyx, labradorite, or hematite beads on silk cord. They are very adjustable for length, as the cord just slides.

Unison Pearl and Diamond Bracelets on Silk Cord, Stacked

The Interview

It was especially great to meet her: she’s a combination of refined and a little rock-and-roll, kind of like her jewelry designs. I also admire that Shawn gives 10% of what she sells to charities, which is notable. She answered a few questions about her current collection and design process:

idazzle: What was the inspiration for your Karma collection?
Shawn Warren: I have always loved Buccellati pieces, with their lacey metalwork and the beauty and quality of the colored gems. But $30,000 to $40,000 retails are not exactly a collectible price point. I wanted to offer important jewelry at a compelling price: customers deserve a luxury item at a great value. I love the “old and new” aspect to the Karma designs. The outlines can be very modern, but the rose-cut gems, which is an ancient cutting style, softens and adds to the lustre of the stones.

idazzle: How often do you release new collections?
SW: I am always working on new designs. We are always emailing clients with our new ideas, and new finished pieces as they come in. I’m really excited about some new pearl designs using organic-shaped Tahitians (pearls) in amazing colors. We are also working at bringing some color into the line: Emeralds, Rubies, Sapphires in bezel-set necklaces that can be doubled up or worn long.

idazzle: Am I correct in thinking that you mainly design for women who are purchasing for themselves?
SW: I have 75 clients that I regularly design for. I know what they like, and keep detailed wish lists which work really well for us and them. When I design I always ask, “can I wear it with jeans?”. Women need jewelry that straddles the different parts of their life.

idazzle: What gives you the most pleasure in your (enviable) career as a jewelry designer?
SW: I love the materials. I can’t WAIT to have the jeweler show me the finished product! To see the jewelry go from concept to the final piece is definitely my favorite part. The sales part is harder–I’ve gotten better at that–but the creative part is what drives me.

You can meet with Shawn at her studio on Central Park West in NYC. Or go in to Fred Segal Couture when you’re in L.A. Given her limited distribution, it might be difficult to see her designs in person, but her website does a surprisingly good job of representing her designs (you can check out her sale section, too!). Since I’ve seen her designs in person, I can vouch for their integrity and beauty. I can almost guarantee that people will stop and ask you about what you are wearing. Shawn Warren’s jewelry can be your secret weapon, too.

Karma Diamond Triple Circle Earrings