Then I clicked through to her website where she actually sells her jewelry, and, WOW. Do you know how rare it is to see designs that are totally creative in inception AND perfectly executed? Trust me, in a veritable sea of “crafty” jewelry it’s harder to find than, well, a leopard print Dolce and Gabbana dress. I especially love the intricate pieces that move, since I know how hard this is to do in fine jewelry metals.

Wendy Brandes Siobhan Stacking Rings in 18kt Gold and Diamond, Pink Sapphire and Ruby, $5500 Retail

Browsing her collection, mostly inspired by interesting, powerful, (or fallen) women from history, I’m not sure I can choose just ONE design that I would personally like to have. I am partial to the jewelry with moving parts/conversation pieces, so I think that in my future I WILL have a poison ring. I just can’t decide between which bad-ass chick from antiquity: Agrippina or the Livia in Aquamarine. There is something about the Chrysanthemum necklace that speaks to me. And I like the Fulvia ring just on principle and description alone.

Wendy Brandes Marie Antoinette Ring in 18kt with Amythest and Tsavorites, $12,500 Retail

I was initially an admirer of afar. After all, this is someone who has been photographed for fashion magazines, has been featured in a video interview for the Washington Post and is outspoken enough to be recognized as a threat by a major search engine that is two letters away from Poodle. Her Cleopatra earrings were just featured in a little film you may have heard of: Sex In The City 2. Oh, it’s not enough that she’s talented, incredibly smart, and well-written; she’s also gorgeous and trend-setting.

The lovely Wendy B with Henry in a Stacy Lomman dress, her own Cleopatra earrings and ring designs

I decided that it was time to find out more about the incomparable Wendy B.

The Interview

idazzle.com: This may be old news, but I’m wondering what prompted the leap from WSJ and Lehman Brothers to creative jewelry designer? Since you now have the benefit of hindsight, is anything radically different than you expected? What was most surprising to you entering the jewelry/design industry? Would you do it all over again?

Wendy Brandes: I did love being an editor. That was my job at CNN and People as well as the Wall Street Journal. (The job at Lehman Brothers, as managing editor of the websites, utilized the same editorial skills.) But the newspaper, TV show and magazine were full of stories about people’s accomplishments and I started to want to be one of those people doing things, instead of being an observer. I was always interested in fashion and entrepreneurship and I had started to design jewelry for my personal use, so jewelry it was. I expected the new direction to be challenging, and it was. Not designing and being inspired. That’s easy. Making a name for yourself is what’s hard. People think that fashion is all about the hot new thing, but it’s much more conservative than that. It’s difficult to pitch products that are very different from what’s on the market. I sometimes wish that I went for the big bucks and started a software company or a social-media business or a hedge fund. But that’s not me. If given the choice, I’d do the jewelry all over again. It’s in my blood.

Wendy Brandes Tortoise Locket in 18kt Gold with Diamond, $2800 Retail

We’re all glad you went for jewelry! I think a lot of designers would say that there is a decidedly un-sexy side of marketing, distribution, etc.

Is getting your designs recognized and on people your biggest challenge as an independent jewelry designer–you’re also at the mercy of commodity markets, and manufacturing economies of scale?

The manufacturing is a big challenge, especially because of the high cost of my raw materials. I wrote about that here. But, as I said, getting the word out is difficult too. If manufacturing and publicity had to arm wrestle for the title of Toughest Challenge, it would probably be a draw.

Wendy Brandes Diana Necklace in Sterling Silver, $450 Retail

What is the biggest reward?

Seeing my ideas become reality — and emails from happy customers like this one.

What jewelry are you wearing RIGHT NOW?

None! I’m at home and I take off all my jewelry as soon as I come home. I recommend that to everyone. When I go out later, I’ll wear my one-of-a-kind “She Sells Seashells” ring. It’s a good summertime ring.

Wendy Brandes One-of-a-Kind carved Rose Quartz and 18kt Rose Gold Ring, $15,000 Retail

Gorgeous ring, strong yet feminine. Anything you’re working on right now that makes your palms sweat (and can you show us?)?

I’m SO excited by the fun new designs I’m adding to my swear-ring line. The swear rings are multi-finger ring sets that give you a brass knuckles look. But you can still move your fingers freely, unlike with a single multi-finger ring that looks cool but feels uncomfortable. The original sterling-silver swear rings read F@#! Then I made them an asterisk friend. But people kept asking for more, so now I have OMG, LOLZ and NYC sets. To make those sets affordable, I need to make them in Asia, in quantity. It’s the economies of scale situation I wrote about in the post mentioned above. So I’m using Kickstarter to take pre-orders on the rings. The pre-sales will pay for production. To pre-order, just use your Amazon account here.

NEW Wendy Brandes Swear Rings in Sterling Silver, LOLZ, OMG, NYC Click Image to Pre-Order

Love the Kickstarter premise! If admirers are jonesin’ for a glimpse of your collection, where in the country can you find it on display?

If you’re in the Los Angeles area, you can check out my work at Broken English Jewelry in Santa Monica. And if you’re in New York, I’m having a sample sale with my clothing-designer friend Zang Toi on August 17. Hope to see everyone there!

Thanks a million, Wendy! For more information on Wendy’s designs, you can visit her jewelry website here, or go to her blog here.

Wendy Brandes Jewelry Sale at House of Toi, August 17th, Click for More Info

evelynH Squared Ring, Red Dot Design Award Winner 2010

The Background

You might say that jewelry is in Evelyn Huang’s blood, since her background is high-end jewelry retail, first at her family’s Los Angeles business, then for the DeBeers store on Rodeo Drive. She received her technical gemology training from GIA, and loved connecting with customers, but still had a creative desire that needed to be explored. After studying Jewelry Design at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, evelynH officially launched in 2006. Within months her “Infinity” suite of bridal rings had won 3rd Place in the DIVA Awards, and garnered a lot of attention.

Evelyn Recieves the Red Dot Award (you can just make out ring on her right hand!)

She’s won numerous other awards and mentions, notably the 2010 Red Dot Design award, and Rio Tinto’s First Place award in 2009 for her extraordinary fancy color diamond necklace design. The necklace is on tour this Fall, traveling with the Rio Tinto National Retailer Tour.

Bulles de Champagne Collier Rio Tinto Award Winner

evelynH and Africa’s Hope

The “Africa’s Hope” earrings designed by evelynH have an incredible story. The earrings themselves are truly stunning with diamonds and African Emeralds scattered in the suspended strands of 18K white gold. The earrings won the 2009 WJA DIVA Design Red Carpet Category, and Evelyn gifted them to the Diamond Empowerment Fund. I loved reading about where the design came from, out of a place in her heart “that these good thoughts will create a positive energy that will be the beginning of a catalyst that will one day alter someone’s life and take that person down a different path full of opportunities and promise….I will name it Africa’s Hope and wish upon it goodness and change and the spirit of giving back…”. Then I found out that at the DEF auction, Russell Simmons himself purchased the earrings, then gave them to Barbara Bush as a gift for her support of DEF! How amazing! This is a reminder that a jewelry designer can make a very positive, tangible difference…

Africa's Hope Earrings: 4.89 Ct. Diamonds and 3.54 Ct. African Emeralds in 18K White Gold

Russell Simmons and Barbara Bush with Evelyn H at DEF Auction

The Interview

idazzle.com: I love the fact that the Red Dot award-winning ring has moving parts and interconnected pieces (and the awesome 1.25″ scale!). Can you tell me a little more about the design inspiration behind the Squared Ring?

evelynH: The squared ring was really inspired by the interconnectivity of the social paradigm that exists today. Complex human relationships which are built upon the technological accessibility of information to the masses directly influencing all aspects of our social culture from how we interact in our relationships to education, art, and architecture all come together in this simple but complex looking design. My point was to try to capture a snapshot of where we currently are as a society and try to interpret it into a piece of jewelry.

I think you really captured it well: how we interact as humans is incredibly rich and complicated! Were you surprised to take top honors in the Red Dot Jewelry Design category?

Honestly, yes I was surprised. The Red Dot is one of the most famous/pre-eminent international design competitions with products being entered by some of the best and most successful companies (Apple, BMW, Rolls Royce, ligne roset etc) on the market today, and I kind of just figured I would give it a try without any expectations. Needless to say I was ecstatic when I received the news.

Are you sure you aren’t a mathematician? While some designs, like your Cometes Cuff are sinous and organic, many are quite geometric. Can you tell me more about your collections?

I’m definitely not a mathematician considering I had to take calculus a few times before I passed the class during my university years. As for my design work, most of our focus is on one-of-a-kind designs for private clientele. My collections are just a way for me to showcase an idea or a mood at the time of its creation. Some pieces are more organic such as the Cometes Cuff you mentioned, while others are much more symmetrical. The point is to try to get a little movement as well as symmetry, because the human eye tends to want things to balance out while looking at a design.

Tandem as One Plaid Diamond Bands

Tell me about your process. Do you start with the raw materials and noodle with them until you have a direction, or do you envision a design and go source the materials?

I usually start my process with a set of parameters. I find it much more interesting and much easier when you are given limits. For example, a client’s budget, or a pre-existing gemstone that must be utilized, etc. When I first began designing I would envision “grand masterpieces” in my mind and then try to have it materialize in front of me. I learned very quickly that this was a fast way to burn-out and lose direction and focus because all designs will have some form of restrictions. It is always better to know them first before you begin the design process. Usually once I understand what the restrictions are, the design process flows very efficiently.
The other important thing for me is to get out in the world and see new things, whether in a different city or visiting a completely foreign country with a different culture. Everything I absorb outside of my day to day environment will eventually shape my ideas in some way. It might not be a particular architectural wonder or a breathtaking sunset that will be interpreted, but somewhere all those experiences become part of me and will translate into something tangible at a point in time.

Carousel Cocktail Ring with Rubellite, Diamonds and Sapphires in 18K Gold

Nicely said, it makes sense that inspiration comes from everywhere and you pull essences out in different pieces at different times. In addition to your collections, you also do custom commissions for private clients. Do you work with people long distance? Which do you consider more rewarding, designing for yourself, or designing for others?

I do work with people locally and also long distance. For me personally, designing for others is much more rewarding. I love to get to know my clients and then interpreting what I feel coming from them into a piece of jewelry. Because I believe jewelry is extremely personal and is usually linked to a story or a memory, I really try hard to capture a feeling or a moment…something special for my clients. Every piece I design is meant to be for that person I designed it for. If I took the same piece and put it on a different person, it wouldn’t look right, it just wouldn’t belong. My most rewarding and happiest moments are when I see a client again, and they tell me since they’ve received the finished piece, they’ve never taken it off, and have received so many compliments that they would feel naked without the piece on.

Where can people find your designs?

Since we specialize in private commissions, our designs are not offered through normal retail channels. Anybody who would like something special or a piece from our collection, can just pick up the phone or shoot us an e-mail and we would be happy to start a conversation with them. Our designs are not mass produced and not as readily available as other designs out there.

What is your current obsession? Anything new we should know about?

I tend not to have any crazy obsessions in general…I only have one ongoing and permanent obsession which is to create pieces that will elicit a “wow” from a client. It’s always a challenge that I look forward to…how to top that emotional factor for them. As for new “news”…yes, everything is always a work in progress, but we try to keep mum on things until they happen. =)

I don’t think getting a “Wow” is a problem with your work! Thank you, Evelyn! It was an honor to get to know your background, inspirations, and amazing designs! You can see more of Evelyn’s designs on her website, and can reach Evelyn and her team at their by-appointment Los Angeles studio by phone at (213) 996-8448, or email by clicking here.

Art Deco Earrings

I first stumbled upon Leon Mege and his custom platinum ring designs online. And even from images online, I could tell that his craft was at an entirely different level than most of the rest of the jewelry business.

Cushion Cut in Platinum Solitaire Setting by Leon Mege, love those double claw prongs!

The Jewelry

To say that Leon Mege makes rings would be akin to saying that Rembrandt made paintings. He can make a ring for a ridiculous-size center diamond, or make an exceptional setting for a .75 carat if you want. If he does make something for you, no one in your circle is going to have a ring remotely in the same league. Particularly if you are looking for an Asscher cut, Cushion cut, or a Halo setting, I can truly say “nobody does it better”.

The designs themselves are exceptional: a certain savant in their proportions, just the right curve here and bend there. His colored gem pieces show an amazing dexterity of form and color combination.

AGTA Award Winning Paraiba Tourmaline and Diamond Ring by Leon Mege

Beyond the designs, the execution is what truly sets Leon’s rings apart. Each ring is fabricated by hand–no molds. The proportions are worked out, then the stones all laid out, drilled, set, beaded, and finished. It takes a cadre of the most skilled craftsmen in his studio/workshop in New York some 6 weeks to make one (one!) bespoke ring.

While I was in the studio, I got to see some exceptional one-of-a-kind pieces, including the ring below. This ruby ring belongs on someone’s finger (for some reason I think it should be in LA, but maybe I’m wrong). Each “petal” started out as a sheet of silver metal. Then it has to be molded into its undulating leaf shape, and the pattern of the stones is laid out. Each tiny hole for each stone is drilled, then the rubies are set with tiny pave beads on top, and the bottom of the leaf is azured. When he started the project, Leon did not know for sure how many stones would be used, but somehow, the number of rubies came out to exactly 500. And the number of diamonds came to exactly 50. Serendipity of symmetry and balance…

Ruby and Orange Diamond Ring by Leon Mege, $35,000 Retail

The History

Leon arrived in New York City in 1988. Trained in jewelry fabrication in his native Russia, he was employed in the jewelry trade literally on his second day in the US (that should tell you something about his ambition and work ethic). He got his Gemology degrees from GIA, and eventually started his own shop here on 47th St. Up until about 2 years ago, he was the secret weapon for the most prestigious retailers in NYC, making rings for celebrities and some of the most influential glitterati in the city. But his designs deserve a name, so a couple of years ago he shifted the business from a trade-only custom shop to a private-appointment atelier selling directly to the end customer.

The shift to almost-retailer has been a very good one, giving Leon the name recognition he needs and customers direct communication with the man himself. A remarkable number of details can get lost in translation from customer to retail salesperson to the craftsman. This way, the customer gets EXACTLY what they want.

Magnificent Halo Setting for a 3 Carat Cushion, Avail for Sale, Leon Mege

The Process

If you are interested in having Leon and company make a ring for you, keep in mind that this is not a traditional store. You need to follow some rules of engagement. You make an appointment. You may not see a ring at all during your visit, just images of designs. He will set your own stone, if it is appropriate for the mounting you want and can be set safely. If you need a diamond, especially a significant or unusual Cushion cut or Asscher cut, you can speak to Perry Chen, the Diamond Concierge of the business. Perry can find you the right diamond–at an extremely competitive price–and you get the synergies of working with them from sourcing the stone to the finished ring.

This is a craftsman whose name should be in the company of Faberge, and the original Cartier. Years from now, his pieces may be listed by name in auction catalogs and command those values. If you have Leon Mege make a ring for you, you can count yourself among celebrities, collectors, and connoisseurs.

Leon hard at work at the jewelry bench.

Shawn has a by-appointment studio on Central Park West, and also shows at one retailer, Fred Segal Couture in Santa Monica, CA. To cover other geographic areas, she does several private trunk shows a year, often in the homes of collectors. This model of selling directly to customers has been very successful for her, and allows her to offer an excellent value proposition to her collectors. I had a chance to catch up with her recently, view her current designs, and ask her a few questions.

The (Spectacular) Jewelry

Her collection was surprisingly diverse, with some interesting sub-themes. My favorites were the gorgeous Karma pieces, with Maharajah-like earrings and pendants set with concentric rows of colored gems like dark Sri Lankan sapphires and richly-hued rubies. Rose-cut diamonds set off the colored gems and are sometimes set in yellow gold contrasting with dark rhodium-finished gold. Many items in this collection are limited-edition or one-of-a-kind, and look like they should be double to triple the prices marked.

Karma Sapphire (18.72 ct) and Rose-cut Diamond (4.1 ct) Earrings

Another favorite was her Diamond Sliver collection. Shawn has designed a series of mainly earrings and necklaces that feature thin “slices” of grey-white diamonds with very organic outlines, often set with pave white diamonds in contrast. The bezel-set diamond slices capture and diffuse the light, creating an effect like stained glass. It manages to be delicate and exciting at the same time.

Royal Sliver Diamond Necklace, 17 carats TW

I’m loving her hoops, with their rose-cut diamond drops. The diamonds are impossibly tiny and perfectly set on the outside and inside of each hoop to catch the light just right. They are available in 3 sizes, and in three colors of gold: white, rose, and a dark rhodium-finish gold that contrasts wonderfully with the sparkle of the diamonds. The rose-cut diamond drops are substantial, with an irregular outline and soft sparkle that keeps them interesting and not too precious. They are also removable, which is a basic tenet of Shawn’s designs–she really likes versatility.

Large Diamond Hoop with Rose-cut Diamond Drop

I also thought these bracelets were fantastic–very modern and wearable. She combines Tahitian pearls, pave diamond balls, and onyx, labradorite, or hematite beads on silk cord. They are very adjustable for length, as the cord just slides.

Unison Pearl and Diamond Bracelets on Silk Cord, Stacked

The Interview

It was especially great to meet her: she’s a combination of refined and a little rock-and-roll, kind of like her jewelry designs. I also admire that Shawn gives 10% of what she sells to charities, which is notable. She answered a few questions about her current collection and design process:

idazzle: What was the inspiration for your Karma collection?
Shawn Warren: I have always loved Buccellati pieces, with their lacey metalwork and the beauty and quality of the colored gems. But $30,000 to $40,000 retails are not exactly a collectible price point. I wanted to offer important jewelry at a compelling price: customers deserve a luxury item at a great value. I love the “old and new” aspect to the Karma designs. The outlines can be very modern, but the rose-cut gems, which is an ancient cutting style, softens and adds to the lustre of the stones.

idazzle: How often do you release new collections?
SW: I am always working on new designs. We are always emailing clients with our new ideas, and new finished pieces as they come in. I’m really excited about some new pearl designs using organic-shaped Tahitians (pearls) in amazing colors. We are also working at bringing some color into the line: Emeralds, Rubies, Sapphires in bezel-set necklaces that can be doubled up or worn long.

idazzle: Am I correct in thinking that you mainly design for women who are purchasing for themselves?
SW: I have 75 clients that I regularly design for. I know what they like, and keep detailed wish lists which work really well for us and them. When I design I always ask, “can I wear it with jeans?”. Women need jewelry that straddles the different parts of their life.

idazzle: What gives you the most pleasure in your (enviable) career as a jewelry designer?
SW: I love the materials. I can’t WAIT to have the jeweler show me the finished product! To see the jewelry go from concept to the final piece is definitely my favorite part. The sales part is harder–I’ve gotten better at that–but the creative part is what drives me.

You can meet with Shawn at her studio on Central Park West in NYC. Or go in to Fred Segal Couture when you’re in L.A. Given her limited distribution, it might be difficult to see her designs in person, but her website does a surprisingly good job of representing her designs (you can check out her sale section, too!). Since I’ve seen her designs in person, I can vouch for their integrity and beauty. I can almost guarantee that people will stop and ask you about what you are wearing. Shawn Warren’s jewelry can be your secret weapon, too.

Karma Diamond Triple Circle Earrings

A couple of things struck me at the event. First of all, seeing a designer’s pieces in person is a MUST. I was blown away by the intensity and complexity of Irene Neuwirth’s colored gemstones, which doesn’t fully show up in images. Also, trying on items is REQUIRED. The profile of a band, or the where the exact length of a necklace falls is so important. Only when you try things on can you truly tell how it’s going to feel and move on you.

18K Yellow Gold Chrysoprase and Pave Diamond Ring, $5390 Retail

I’ll warn you, though, that if you do get to see Irene’s jewelry in person, it’s going to ruin you. Not only is she a savant in her use of color, the details in her designs are spectacular. The bezels around the gems are scalloped and catch the light just so. The chains are just the right link, length, and scale. The matte finish on the gold? Perfect. The clasps are beautifully made, and many have a safety catch.

Her color palette is pretty unusual for a fine/couture jewelry designer. Many fine jewelry designers play it safe by working with universally recognizable gems. Irene chooses jewels that have traditionally been gem specimens and elevates them to extraordinary: Labradorite, Boulder Opal, Chrysoprase.

18K Rose Gold Labradorite and Onyx Pendant, $10,980 Retail

Besides her amazing color palette, the cut of the gems plays center stage in Irene’s designs. Many of the gems featured are rose-cut. Rose-cutting brings out the color and depth of the gems she uses, and still allows them to have a flat back to rest against the skin. Sometimes perfectly-set diamonds wrap around the stones, providing some sparkling contrast to the color and texture of the center stones.

18K Rose Gold Chrysoprase, Labradorite, and Onyx Earrings, $6600 Retail

In my conversation with Irene, I commented about how some of her designs seem built around a particularly appealing gem, and asked what her design process looks like. Irene said that with some of the pieces using bezel-set gems, those are cut to her specifications by her gem dealer. But others, such as the boulder opals, she starts with the gems first, playing with them until she has the design just right.

18K Yellow Gold Turquoise, Moonstone, and One-of-a-Kind Boulder Opal Pendant, $10,520 Retail

I also asked if there was a category (rings, bracelets, earrings, etc.) that she particularly loved to design? She laughed and said that was hard. Obviously, she has designed everything in the case, from narrow bangles to shoulder-grazing earrings. But right now, her current pleasure is designing the larger bezel-set necklaces.

18K Yellow Gold Bezel-set Chrysoprase Necklace, $11,780 Retail

Irene’s jewelry straddles the line between the more staid jewelry industry and the fickle fashion industry. Her pieces have an amazing sense of color and design that feel more like fashion, but manage to be precious and timeless at the same time. I especially love that she designs with women as her audience, versus designing what men think women should like. Women should be unapologetic about pursuing and buying fine jewelry that makes them happy.

18K Yellow Gold Rainbow Moonstone and Rose-cut Diamond Ring, $9170 Retail

They always carry a collection of Irene’s jewelry at Mario’s, so if you are in Seattle, stop in to take a look. Or check out her website to see the other retailers who carry her jewelry.

Just don’t say I didn’t warn you.