Jewelry Trends from VICENZAORO The Boutique Show

If you’re been following my adventures on Instagram, you already know that my recent visit to the VICENZAORO jewelry show in Italy was pretty much a treasure trove of gorgeous jewels.* VICENZAORO’s tagline is “The Future. Now.” I saw some definite directions and trends in the jewelry there, some that I had seen before here in the States, and some delightfully unexpected.
Pasquale Bruni Stella Nascente

Lyrical Beauty

Nature ruled: butterflies, flowers, leaves, animals, even bats and reptiles (and some rather unfortunate turkeys. Don’t ask). There were lots of lyrical shapes like scrolls, openwork, and lacy filigree. Many shapes were distilled down to their essence; simplified and stylized. Bows and hearts appeared quite often, but in more edgy interpretations, with interesting outlines and concave forms.

Butterflies by ANGRY Jewellery

A bevy of stylized butterflies from curiously named ANGRY Jewellery Innovation at VICENZAORO.


Bow ring by Vanessa Pederzani

A delightful bow ring from Vanessa Pederzani. Image courtesy of Vanessa Pederanzi.


Pasquale Bruni Butterfly

A particularly lovely butterfly from the Liberty Collection of Pasquale Bruni. Image courtesy of Pasquale Bruni.


Bat ring by Vanessa Pederzani

An adorable bat ring by Vanessa Pederzani. Image courtesy of Vanessa Pederzani.


Vanessa Pederzani hand jewelry Skorpio

This scorpion doesn’t bite: this colored diamond and gold piece wraps around the hand as inventive body jewelry. Image courtesy of Vanessa Pederzani.

Machine Age

Negative space was everywhere, with cutouts and openwork in every conceivable pattern. Skin becomes part of the design, revealed where the jewelry has been undone. Some patterns were decidedly mid-century, like Roberto Coin’s new The Fifth Season collection. 3-D printing has definitely made an impact on design: even if traditional pierce-work techniques are used, the patterns are edgier and inspired by new technology.

Roberto Coin the Fifth Season collection

Mid-century chic made its debut at VICENZAORO with Roberto Coin’s The Fifth Season collection.


Laurent Gandini Earrings

I loved Milan-based Laurent Gandini’s entire collection: wearable, beautiful jewelry featuring openwork that feels new and classic at the same time.


Roberto Coin the Fifth Season collection rings

Punching pattern to the next level, Robert Coin The Fifth Season rings in innovative finishes and color combinations. Image courtesy of Roberto Coin.


Further evidence that Tech is impacting jewelry design: pave, long associated with traditional jewelry, is now being used in innovative patterns. Some designs were splintery, using marquise shapes, radiating and stitched together.
Pasquale Bruni Ghirlanda Pendant

Taking exquisite to the next level, Pasquale Bruni’s Ghirlanda collection weaves splintered shapes into new directions. Image courtesy of Pasquale Bruni.


Mokoso Rock Candy Rings

Pave isn’t passe in these rings by Mokoso, using blackened metals, colored gems in a myriad of cuts, and colored diamonds.

Midas Touch

Gold, that fluid jewelry medium, has reached new levels of tactile form. The lines between metal, gems and fabric have blurred: is it a scarf or a necklace? One designer, Rajola, debuted actual scarves with gemstones and pearls sewn in or incorporated. Some manufacturers, like Aurora Vicenza use metal infused into Lurex fibers for a very intriguing effect. Personal expression is reaching new levels.

Aurora Vicenza Lurex Gold

Aurora Vicenza combines gold with Lurex to sinuous effect. Image courtesy of Aurora.


Pasquale Bruni Ring

This Pasquale Bruni Prato Fiorito ring is painstakingly linked together with an elaborate infrastructure that makes the finished ring appear effortless.

Innovations

It’s not just about gold in Italy: Italian jewelry companies are known for their innovative materials, such as wood or interesting combinations like silicone and diamonds. Fashion and fine jewelry are further tangled, like atomic, geometric design done in silver or vermeil and taken to new levels of quality at Diva Gioielli, and gemstones were used in inventive ways in alternative materials like bronze.

Duepunti Milano silicone and diamonds

I literally flipped out over these fresh studs at Duepunti Milano: each pair comes with 4 colored rings that wrap around the base studs to change the look. At 79 Euro a pair, diamonds become chic, affordable and versatile.


Diva Gioielli Bracelet

Atomic design at Diva Gioielli, hand made silver and vermeil jewelry made in Vicenza, Italy. One of my show favorites.

New Lengths

Layering reached new, er, lengths at VICENZAORO. I saw important diamond necklaces tiered. New midi-lengths were spotted, but almost always layered worn with shorter and longer lengths. Longer chains with stations, often very inventive and asymmetrical, were important at many designers. These are also very versatile–when doubled up the look completely changes.

Length and layering is definitely spotted everywhere at VICENZAORO.


Yoko London Pearl Necklace

Possibly my favorite pearls, Yoko London goes to new lengths with pink and grey South Sea pearls on chain.


Roberto Coin The Fifth Season

Carved gold stations add interest to a Roberto Coin The Fifth Season long necklace.


A new era of inventiveness in jewelry has been ushered in. We’re waiting with open arms.

*Note that some expenses of my trip were covered by the VicenzaOro Marketing and PR team. I was expected to attend the show, press conferences and events, but there were no requirements to write articles mentioning the events or specific vendors. This was an opportunity to experience a jewelry trade show that was new for me, and the opinions I expressed are my sincere impressions.

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